Wheel modifications, wiring diagrams and Repair Instructions ...

Werner Winkels

Werner Winkels

591
Modified Momo Force (red) to use with GT4

I replaced the Momo Force Mainboard to GT-Force Mainboard,
the Wheel Potentiometer to 100K
the Pedal Potentiometers to 50K

Now the Momo Wheel work with all Playstation 2 Games , just like the GT-Force Wheel including GT4 👍

I have attached a GT4 Replay (pal) driven with the modified Momo Force Wheel 👍
 

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Momo Force (red) Pedal-Unit modification to use with Driving Force Pro Wheel

Please notice:
The full thread of this modification, You can find :
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=44143


driving_force_pro_momo-pedal-mod-ok_small.jpg


It works great with GT4 :)

The worktime is only 30 min.
Thereafter the Momo Pedal work with both Wheels :D



I think you know this, but to be on the safe side i want to point up again :

You must connect the new cable set parallel to the original.
After the modification the Momo Pedal-Unit have 2 cable set's !!!

( One for use with the Momo Wheel, and one for use with the DFP Wheel )

You must only to clamp the new cables in addition to the original Momo cables



By the way,
I think, the DFP-Pedal bug isnt only a fault of the DFP Pedal-Unit
The GT4 / DFP calibration-method to contribute.

This bug can only to correct, with a verry precise working Pedal-mechanism !


The Momo Pedal is to all intents and purposes, one of the best pedals
But if it has sign of wear , it isnt better than a other.


The GT4 / DFP calibration to inspect permanent the maximal and minimal electric resistance of the connected Potentiometers.
If the Potentiometer to give out a short resistance -values peek , the permanent-calibration to memorise this and change the center to a wrong position !


The source can be:
a damaged Potentiometer, that change the values by mechanical-shock

a loosely Potentiometer mount

a loosely cable joint ( transition resistance )

...



laters
Werner


The circuit diagram of my Modification
driving_force_pro_momo-pedal-mod_english_small-2.jpg




Sorry for my horrible English
If You have problems to understand , please send me a PM

Thank You .


Laters

Werner

By the Way,
If you dont want so solder, You can to clamp the new cables inside the original cable-shoes and solder terminal lug of the Potentiometers 👍
 

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Driving Force Pro Pedal repair 3
 

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Driving Force Pro Pedal repair 4
 

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Driving Force Pro Pedal repair 5
 

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Driving Force Pro Pedal repair 6

Please Notice, the Pedals of the new Version of the Driving Force Pro, use other Potentiometers !

Maybe the 6 cable shoes of the Potentiometers are to waggly !
 

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rsmithdrift
I'm assuming you're going to put pics in these posts???
Click to expand...

Werner Winkels
This Thread isnt finished yet !
( I must to modify some Photos )
Click to expand...



Werner...do you have any repair information concerning the double/triple upshift failure of the paddle shift switches?
 
Driving Force Pro Paddle-Shifter Bug-Fix

Well, If the paddle shift-switches have a distance to the circuit board, the solder tacks of the shift-switches can be break.
 

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The old Logitech GT Force Wheel / Pedal :

The Wheel use 1 Pcs. Potentiometer 100K
The Pedal use 2 Pcs. Potentiometer 50K
 

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Had the shifter problem, fixed it. Just re-solderd the connections on the back of the buttons with a 15 volt soldering iron and some nice electronics solder. I think the continued bashing breaks the connection inside, causing missed (no connection) or multiple (intermittent connection) shifts. I hit all four spots on each side, although I was only having the problem on upshift.

I'm a novice when it comes to soldering circuits, and don't exactly have the steadiest hands in the world. If I can pull it off, anyone can. Thanks for the links and info everyone.
 
Werner Winkels
The old Logitech GT Force Wheel / Pedal :

The Wheel use 1 Pcs. Potentiometer 100K
The Pedal use 2 Pcs. Potentiometer 50K
Click to expand...

Pic2 was the one I was after, but its corrupt.

I am trying to identify the chip on an older Logitech GT Wheel as in "Werner Winkels" post, being on the power side of the 'Main Board'

gt_force_wheel.jpg


Can anyone tell me what is written on the chip? Mine has a crater in it. :ouch:

Thanks in advance,

David.
 

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Going to give my DFP a second life (in GTR evo though) The wheel has a clanky feel because of leeway between the cog wheels. I already partly fixed this. if anyone's interested I can post pics. The wheel feels like a million bucks again. Partly because of the engine vibration in the wheel.
 
I have the Driving Force GT wheel.
My buddy just gave me his new G27 Pedals. (he is using ECCI Pedals)

Is there a way to wire the G27 Pedals to My Logitec Driving Force GT??


Thanks in advance for any light shed on this.


MadDogRhody

Rhody Racing
 
Best regards...Have you the schematics of the Logitech Momo black main board?
Thx, nice to meet you mate.
Iñigo
 
Hello! help! Did you find the chip information? I had the same problem. My wheel is Logitech wingman formula force gp



vivid
Pic2 was the one I was after, but its corrupt.

I am trying to identify the chip on an older Logitech GT Wheel as in "Werner Winkels" post, being on the power side of the 'Main Board'

gt_force_wheel.jpg


Can anyone tell me what is written on the chip? Mine has a crater in it. :ouch:

Thanks in advance,

David.
Click to expand...
 

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