///DR's Gran Turismo Cockpit DIY (Updated 8/17/10)\\\

///Delphic Reason's GT Cockpit DIY\\\


Well, I stumbled across a good deal for a Black Leather Universal Sport Seat (see attached). So I decided to stop procrastinating and start building my cockpit. I have been using an Obutto Ozone, and it has been a fantastic budget cockpit. However, it lacks the adjust ability/customize ability that I would like for that extra immersion in my various types of racing games.

I will keep the top of this page updated with the current status (and pictures) of the build.

UPDATE (08/17/10):


1. I started off by building 3 box sections like the picture below, using 1x2's (21 x 22.75"):



2. Next I cut some particle board (carpet underlay) to the dimensions of the outline of the box (21 x 22.75") and attached the two together using 1 1/2" screws:




3. I attached another of the box outlines to the other side of the particle board:




4. I took the 3rd box outline I made, and used it as a mounting point for the seat. I measured the sliders and attached two lengths of 1x2's at 21" long (these 1x2 sections will be where I attach my custom Buttkicker mount):




5. So, now we have our base made up of the 2 box outlines attached to the either side of the particle board, and our seat mount attached to the 3rd box outline. So, I cut some risers out of 2x3's. I cut mine to 6", but you will want to cut the risers to your preferred seat height.




6. I then attached the risers to the 4 corners of the base, and then connected the top section to the risers via some 2" screws (2 in each board for strength):




7. All that was left to do now was mount the seat. I used 2 1/2" bolts, washers, and lock nuts to secure. Your seat application may be different. I also added short 1x2 sections under the seat mounts for a beefier secure connection:




Seat fully back:



Seat forward:



UPDATE:


Now that we have our seat ready for racing, we need to focus on the front section that will contain the pedals, shifter, and most importantly... the wheel.

Here is an example of the finished front section:


Notice that the base of this section was constructed using the same method as the seat base. Therefore, the width will be the same as the seat base. So...
Cut out your particle board (or whatever you would like to use in it's place) to 22.75" x 34.5"

Next, cut your 1x2's that will frame the top and bottom of the base piece you just cut. Again, the shorter pieces will be the same as the seat base.
So, cut 4 boards at 22.75", and 4 boards at 31.75". Once again, I find it easier to then connect the frame pieces together before attaching them to the base. Then attach the frame sections to either side of the particle board using 1.5" screws.

Example:




Next, lets construct our wheel tray, before moving on to the uprights.

Example:



I purchased the board for the wheel tray at Home Depot, so there was no cutting necessary. You're luck may differ. The dimensions are 24" x 11.25" x 1" thick. You should be able to find something along those dimensions at your local lumberyard. Now, cut two 1x2's to a length of 11.25" to match the tray. These will be what we attach our uprights to (this is why the wheel tray should be finished before the uprights).

Example:


Set the 1x2's in 1/2" as shown in the pictures below:


Attach with 1" screws from the top of the wheel tray. That's it...


Now that we have our wheel tray completed, it's on to the upright supports.

Example:


The upright supports are made from 1x3's at 27" tall. To get the angle, just place the board in the position pictured until the top corner of the base of the 1x3 is lined up with the top of the base frame (it sounds more complicated than it is).

Here is an example:



Now grab a pencil and, using the top of the base frame for a guide, mark a line and cut. This will give you a good angle for the uprights. For the second uprights (nearest the seat), just clamp the first uprights in place, and use that angle as a guide:



Once again, marking a line and cutting. Now, leave a space between the uprights of 4".

So, now you have your 4 uprights, but we're not done yet. We need to figure out the angle for the wheel tray, and thus what angle the top of the uprights need to be cut to.

Take your finished wheel tray, and clamp your wheel to it. Sit in your finished seat and hold the wheel (and thus the tray) in front of you at the desired angle you want the wheel to be at (now this part will be easier with a friend, or a few clamps) Using your wheel tray as a guide, mark the top of the uprights at your desired angle. Unfasten all the clamps and remove the uprights. Make your cuts, and then install them back into the base using 1.5" screws, and remember to space the two uprights 4" apart.

Now you just need to place your wheel tray on top of the uprights, and fasten them together using 1" screws.


You're done with the wheel stand portion of the build. Now, on to the pedal tray...


Take your particle board (you may want to use something else if you're planning on painting these pieces. as it is, I will be adding automotive carpet to the particle board sections) and measure 19.75" x 11.25". This will be the tray the pedals will mount to.

Example:


Next measure a 1x2 out to 21.25". This will be the support for the pedal tray. You will have to experiment a little with the angle of the tray. Once you have an angle that suits you (you can also mount your pedals onto the tray at this point to help with deciding on an angle), attach the 1x2 just under the tray against the front of the uprights, using 1" screws.

Example:



Congratulations! You have completed the basic structure for the seat/front sections.



Now, on to the shifter mount...

COMING SOON (4/19/10)

NEW:

Here is the nearly completed cockpit (sans panels and paint, amongst other details) with Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo S wheel/shifter/pedals attached


Currently with Standard Pedals

Side view of Shifter Mount

Close up of Shifter Mount

Next comes paneling, paint, decals, Buttkicker, etc...


Stay tuned!

Here is the link for Buttkicker FAQ's you might find your answer here:

http://www.thebuttkicker.com/support/faq.htm

Bottom line is to use the rubber isolaters which guitammer (Buttkicker) company sells to isolate the section of your cockpit from the area that you do not want vibrating. They sell them for different load ratings upto a couple of hundred pounds, you will see them talked about in the FAQ page: http://www.thebuttkicker.com/support/faq.htm#platforms

Since I don't have a picture of what your new cockpit will look like although I think I have an idea what you are trying to accomplish the FAQ page might be of help. I have found just recently that some of the settings on my Onkyo have greatly affected the performance of my Buttkicker. I do utilize the rubber isolators on my chair but if it something is not tight on my chair it vibrates so in your build ensure everything is very tight and will not vibrate.

Thank you. That seems like a great resource.

I'll take a look.

Anyone here made a cockpit in two sections?

If so, how did you connect the two?

Hmmmmm....

Still not seeing any great information on how to connect the two sections together.

Should I use a bolt and wing nut style connection?

Say...

I have a 2x4 coming out of the base of the front section (wheel and pedal section). Towards the seat section, that slots between two other boards drilled out with a bolt connecting the 3 of them (and a hefty wing nut). Should that do the trick? Maybe with some soft plastic or hard rubber grommets between the washers and the base.

Just slinging some ideas out there, "HOUSE" style. See if anyone might agree or disagree. Get a dialog going.

I'm having trouble sticking with a method. I'm hoping there might be some carpenters out there among you.

Here is mine, splits in 2, fastened by 4 bolts with butterflies. But I only use 2 as im lazy.

TBH, I might has well made it one piece as it lives there full time.

How about this?

Thanks for that 👍

I've had a looked at that cockpit before but I've never stumbled across that thread, I guess I'll be making a trip to B&Q tomorrow.

maybe not identical, but the sizes should give a good starting point.

Jack

How about this?

Click to expand...

I've seen that before, but it looks like it could potentially vibrate quite a bit between the sliding panels, with a BK application.

Here is mine, splits in 2, fastened by 4 bolts with butterflies. But I only use 2 as im lazy.

TBH, I might has well made it one piece as it lives there full time.

Click to expand...

Where are the 4 bolts? Where is the disconnect point?

Looks the business. Very simple, albeit what looks to be a very ergonomic setup.

Delphic Can you enclose a picture or hand drawing of what you have in mind for this two part piece and maybe we can work off that? I take it you are using the larger BK unit and not the wireless BKA300? The DIY that Jack provided where the Wheel portion of the stand connects (slides) with the pedal/seat portion should be solid enough and not vibrate if screwed down tightly. My second question is are you trying to keep the vibration just in the seat portion of the cockpit and away from the wheel and pedal portions? Or just trying to keep the vibration in the cockpit and away from the floor?

Delphic Reason

Where are the 4 bolts? Where is the disconnect point?

Looks the business. Very simple, albeit what looks to be a very ergonomic setup.

Click to expand...

Thanks, We used measurements from an Elise to get the driving position. Here's a crappy pic to show you the disconnect point and the fixings I used. (same on both sides) I just fitted all 4 just for you.



The Rig needs repainting as I moved the seat back a bit and lowered it a the rear a bit also. Much more comfy now.

👍

jswilli1

Delphic Can you enclose a picture or hand drawing of what you have in mind for this two part piece and maybe we can work off that? The DIY that Jack provided where the Wheel portion of the stand connects (slides) with the pedal/seat portion should be solid enough and not vibrate if screwed down tightly.

Click to expand...

Well, now that he has posted a clear pic of the connection, I am sure I will go with a similar, if not exactly the same, type of connection. It does look plenty solid, and should be relatively easy to disconnect when need be.

I had planned on building my cockpit in much the same manner as GTP_Hyperspeed's. In fact, I was going to use my 240sx measurements to get the seating position/pedals/seat height, etc... just right.

My second question is are you trying to keep the vibration just in the seat portion of the cockpit and away from the wheel and pedal portions? Or just trying to keep the vibration in the cockpit and away from the floor?

Click to expand...

"I would like the seat base, and wheel/pedal section to be detachable from each other. Not only for space saving reasons, but also to utilize the seat section of the cockpit (with Buttkicker attached) separate from the rest of the cockpit for non racing games (FPS, Action, RPG, etc...). The Buttkicker is where the trouble comes in. I want the vibration from the Buttkicker to transfer through to the rest of the frame without any rattling/buzzing problems that could potentially be caused by the connection between the two sections."

I take it you are using the larger BK unit and not the wireless BKA300?

Click to expand...

I was going to use the BK Gamer. I don't really feel up to spending as much as I would need to to get the BK LFE kit. Not for now anyway. I'm sure I will upgrade later on.

Thanks, We used measurements from an Elise to get the driving position. Here's a crappy pic to show you the disconnect point and the fixings I used. (same on both sides) I just fitted all 4 just for you.

Click to expand...

Thank you.

That is exactly what I needed. That's pretty much what I was planning to do. Boards sliding next to each other, with bolts and wing nuts to secure. Can you post some of the specs of your setup? Specifically, what bolt/butterfly measurements, approximate amount of wood ($$$)? If you don't mind and/or can remember.

Do you use a Buttkicker with your setup?

For maximium effect id say you would be better to consider a bit of metal tubing which is connected to the BK at one end and attaches to the base of your frame for the length you need.

The rumble for me was better contained within a metal and then vibrating through the wood its attached too. I found this better with early testing of my own d.i.y build than say having the rumble just spreading through the wooden base on its own. Instead with the metal channelled along the piping the vibrations were more evenly spread along the length of metal right upto the pedal section as well.

All you would need is a break/split point within the tubing via bolts at the same point your frame detaches.

Chrome tubing is nice and affordable, used alot for shopfittings so easy to get the attachements too. Reccomend you look any local "shopfitting" suppliers in your region.

The BKA 300 is a good device but with some flaws, i dont think more than the 300watts it has is needed but performance depends on the material used and your AV amplifer settings for its LFE. Some surround sound modes also may detract or enchance the amount/strength you feel from the Buttkicer.

I will have a good review coming on a new GT website thats appeared soon.

Mr Latte

For maximium effect id say you would be better to consider a bit of metal tubing which is connected to the BK at one end and attaches to the base of your frame for the length you need.

Click to expand...

Can you elaborate (maybe a diagram if you can be bothered). I get the metal tubing part. Sounds like good sense to use a metal connection rather than wood. Where should this tubing be located? As a long tube running the length of the frame (lengthwise), or a tube under the base of the seat, or something else I'm not considering?

All you would need is a break/split point within the tubing via bolts at the same point your frame detaches.

Click to expand...

again.... Sorry... Can you elaborate.

At the detach point, how do I ensure there is no buzzing or any other unwanted noise coming from the connection point.

Although, I'm sure your answer to my first question may solve this.

Chrome tubing is nice and affordable, used alot for shopfittings so easy to get the attachements too. Reccomend you look any local "shopfitting" suppliers in your region.

Click to expand...

Thank you.

I will check that out.

The BKA 300 is a good device but with some flaws, i dont think more than the 300watts it has is needed but performance depends on the material used and your AV amplifer settings for its LFE. Some surround sound modes also may detract or enchance the amount/strength you feel from the Buttkicer.

Click to expand...

Do you know anything about the BK Gamer? Any advice on multiple BK units (for Left and Right sound isolation, or multiple frequency isolation)? I'm just trying to figure out my best options for the most immersion.

I will have a good review coming on a new GT website thats appeared soon.

Click to expand...

Looking forward to it....

By the way. I see you hail from the Emerald Isle. I'm originally from BallyShannon (raised there until I was 10 years old), but hopefully you won't hold that against me....


Well, I'm off to Lowes today to get some wood.

GTP_Hyperspeed:

Did you use 1x2's in your setup?

I was going to use 2x4's, but your setup looks so clean with the smaller frame.

Delphic Reason

Do you know anything about the BK Gamer? Any advice on multiple BK units (for Left and Right sound isolation, or multiple frequency isolation)? I'm just trying to figure out my best options for the most immersion.

Click to expand...

I use the BKA300 Wireless in my setup (see sig) and move it from my chair to my couch while watching movies/games. There is a code for $100 dollars off on the BKA300 ($299) (http://shakemycouch.com/blog/) if your budget allows. I have seen the BKA gamer but have not seen it perform, generally the left and right channels are combined at the transducer amp before being sent to BK. On my Onkyo I combine the left/right LFE channels to the subwoofer output automatically. Honestly the BKA300 is more than enough transducer for my chair/couch, the larger BKA LFE transducer may be a bit much? If you were contemplating buying two BK gamers I would just settle for the BKA300. I did some testing and trials at the request of Mr Latte with different settings and now my chair rattles slightly. Honestly I have "tuned" my BK where I can really feel everything and have little to no sound emitting from my chair while using the BK. The Pic in my sig does not show my BK amp that is mounted to the side of my chair.

Thank you for all the replies everyone. I'm getting some very useful information.

jswilli1

I have seen the BKA gamer but have not seen it perform, generally the left and right channels are combined at the transducer amp before being sent to BK.

Click to expand...

I have heard of people using 2 BK Gamer units to work off of different channels. Say you want the left and right channels to be sent to individual BK Gamers, so you can feel which side of the car is going over the rumble strips, which side an explosion is coming from (FPS), etc... I'm not sure if any modification has to be done, or maybe the use of splitters. Not really sure. I haven't spent much time looking into it. However, I would love to get something like that working, if anyone has any other ideas.

Sure would add to the tripple screen PC setup.


GTP_Hyperspeed:

I noticed that you used some metal angle connectors on your vertical supports for the wheel (B Pillar?). Have you found this to be a stable/secure solution? Does it wobble? Or, do the back wooden supports (A Pillar?...lol) stabilize it?

Any other types of connections I can't see? Anything you would do different now that you've had the cockpit for a while?

Delphic Reason

GTP_Hyperspeed:

I noticed that you used some metal angle connectors on your vertical supports for the wheel (B Pillar?). Have you found this to be a stable/secure solution? Does it wobble? Or, do the back wooden supports (A Pillar?...lol) stabilize it?

Any other types of connections I can't see? Anything you would do different now that you've had the cockpit for a while?

Click to expand...

Hi, my rig is very stable, doesnt move at all, which is great as im quite heavy on the wheel. Adding those metal supports really made it much better. Other than lowering the seat a little at the rear, I wouldnt change a thing. 👍

GTP_Hyperspeed

Hi, my rig is very stable, doesnt move at all, which is great as im quite heavy on the wheel. Adding those metal supports really made it much better. Other than lowering the seat a little at the rear, I wouldnt change a thing. 👍

Click to expand...

Are the metal supports anywhere else on the frame, or just on the b pillar? Did you do anything in particular to ensure the frame would be stable? Or, did it just end up that way?

Sorry for all the questions.

I want to get this right the first time.

Delphic Reason

Are the metal supports anywhere else on the frame, or just on the b pillar? Did you do anything in particular to ensure the frame would be stable? Or, did it just end up that way?

Sorry for all the questions.

I want to get this right the first time.

Click to expand...

The metal supports are in each corner both sides, so 4 in total. My friend built my Rig for me as my wood work skills are limited, And set off with the intention of making it a strong as possibile. We added the metal supports as it was a little wobbly before. They really made a nice difference. And yeah, it just ended up being very stable.

👍

Delphic Reason

Thank you for all the replies everyone. I'm getting some very useful information.



I have heard of people using 2 BK Gamer units to work off of different channels. Say you want the left and right channels to be sent to individual BK Gamers, so you can feel which side of the car is going over the rumble strips, which side an explosion is coming from (FPS), etc... I'm not sure if any modification has to be done, or maybe the use of splitters. Not really sure. I haven't spent much time looking into it. However, I would love to get something like that working, if anyone has any other ideas.

Sure would add to the tripple screen PC setup.


GTP_Hyperspeed:

I noticed that you used some metal angle connectors on your vertical supports for the wheel (B Pillar?). Have you found this to be a stable/secure solution? Does it wobble? Or, do the back wooden supports (A Pillar?...lol) stabilize it?

Any other types of connections I can't see? Anything you would do different now that you've had the cockpit for a while?

Click to expand...

Using two BK gamer units to work on left/right channels would work only if you are using a receiver that can split the channels. Most receivers have only one subwoofer output and the option of using the left, right or both combined channels into one such as my Onkyo 805. Honestly given the size of any normal cockpit I would find it very hard to be able to differentiate (Feel) the rumble strips being on the left or right sides. I have found that while being immersed in the racing on GT5P particularly online that the BK is just a "feeling" since you are so "focused" on the driving aspect. On the other hand during FPS and other games you notice it alot more. The other issue with left/right channels particularly with the rumble strips is if the game supports them on the left and right channels and not just on the subwoofer. When I did some trials that Mr Latte requested I am very sure that the rumble strips in GT5P are on the sub channel since the adjustments made to my 805 affected only the sub channel and intensified the BK. I also found the Brick rumble strips became active (High Speed Ring) as I didn't feel them before. Not all the red/white rumble strips in GT5P are raised, only the strips in the turns are raised. The red/white strips in the straights are flat and no feeling is felt.

jswilli1

Using two BK gamer units to work on left/right channels would work only if you are using a receiver that can split the channels. Most receivers have only one subwoofer output and the option of using the left, right or both combined channels into one such as my Onkyo 805. Honestly given the size of any normal cockpit I would find it very hard to be able to differentiate (Feel) the rumble strips being on the left or right sides. I have found that while being immersed in the racing on GT5P particularly online that the BK is just a "feeling" since you are so "focused" on the driving aspect. On the other hand during FPS and other games you notice it alot more. The other issue with left/right channels particularly with the rumble strips is if the game supports them on the left and right channels and not just on the subwoofer. When I did some trials that Mr Latte requested I am very sure that the rumble strips in GT5P are on the sub channel since the adjustments made to my 805 affected only the sub channel and intensified the BK. I also found the Brick rumble strips became active (High Speed Ring) as I didn't feel them before. Not all the red/white rumble strips in GT5P are raised, only the strips in the turns are raised. The red/white strips in the straights are flat and no feeling is felt.

Click to expand...

Ok, I will start off with one BK Gamer regardless.

However, I do know the rumble sound (well, the mid and high part of the sound) does come out of the left and right speakers in accordance with their location in refference to the vehicle you're driving. Someone I had the pleasure of meeting recently (down in Seattle for a GT4/GT5 get together) had 2 BK Gamers hooked up to his cockpit (one on each side (externally mounted)). I'm not sure how he hooked it up though. Seemed to be working well with GT4 and GT5. Unfortunately, I don't have his number or email, so who knows if I'll ever find out.

If someone here has done it, speak up now!

Back on the topic of the build....

I bought all the wood. Some 1x2's, 1x4's, and some 1/8" panel boards to skin the cockpit with.

I still have the receipt, so I will be able to do a right up on the cost, materials used, and tools needed. I'm hoping it will help others who are not sure about whether to build or buy a cockpit.

The build officially starts on Thursday or Friday. My old roommate's dad owns a shop, so we'll have access to any tools we may need.

I'll keep everyone informed as to the progress (with pictures!).

Hi again...

About the tubing, id say you should muck about with a few tests.
Really all you need to do is have the tubing alonside the frame, even tubing at both sides which attaches to a horizontal piece of tubing thats connected to the BKA.
Personally id say hold off and buy the BKA300 over the "Gamer" its going to be so much better. Just like subwoofers having 2x average products doesnt equal having one better one.

Excellent Mr Latte, I also have a Gamepod. Did you do something to the metal plates that stop the pedals from moving forward ? I had to do a DIY job on mine and cut out some metal to allow the wire from the G25 Pedals to feed through 👍

Oh BTW the gamepod customer service is 👎 The Managing Director, his name is Ash had promised to send me a new seat slider, (as my one is damaged), and that was over a year ago. I have sent numerous emails over the space of 12 months to chase up this seat slider and not a single reply back from the customer service team or the MD.

Terrible customer service, and I hope they are reading this, google loves GT Planet

TBH i purchased this one 2nd hand although this is the GT2 ammended version i believe?

The reasons, well as its got the most substantial frame for anything in around its price. I will be modding this frame into my whole build. By the time its done you wont even recognise it.

Going to flog off the seat to somene cheap, maybe a Playseat owner.

Regards the pedal section, for me its too close and personally i think the design is flawed, id say the whole cockpit should be about 6" longer.
Maybe if you put your G25s on some form of sloping shelf or mounting and say a few inches further forward from the seat if like me you find your knees a bit too high.

Still its a decent little racing frame though...

Ah yes this must be the amended GT2 version as my pedal plate looks slightly different.

Sometimes I unclip the carpet grip under the G25 pedals and place that directly on top of the metal plates to give me that slight slope, the carpet grip actually holds it in place 👍

Alternatively I completely remove the metal plates and rest the pedals on the bottom of my TV cabinet with the carpet grip. Only problem is that my legs are actually stretched and that puts more pressure onto my back. I would rather prefer to sit upright and have the knees bent as a normal road car

I'll have a rough sketch of the cockpit posted by Wednesday at the latest. Maybe tonight. We'll see if I can find the time to get in front of the computer tonight. It's my girlfriend's day off, so I'll probably be giving all of my attention to her.

1 quick query - what is the specific need to reduce rattling etc from the frame...

Most cars that I have been in/driven - have rattles and squeaks from various different directions - and I can only assume a "race prepared" car would have more so (due to less sound proofing) - so any rattling etc might make it even more immersive?!

C.

Looking forward to seeing your results. If I might add, if you use a sealant between each join, this will insure all vibrations are absorbed. Allow the sealant to completely dry before connecting and be liberal with the amount. If you do this correctly, no pieces will actually touch another piece, so only your seat needs to be directly in contact with that part of the base, to insure the vibrations are going to where they are required.
The sealant can be applied to the wheel mount area, to also isolate the FF vibrations.
All bolts should not need to be super tight, as the sealant will push back against the tightening nut. Rubber could be used in place of the sealant, but at a cost.

Good luck hope to see it soon.

yeti

1 quick query - what is the specific need to reduce rattling etc from the frame...

Most cars that I have been in/driven - have rattles and squeaks from various different directions - and I can only assume a "race prepared" car would have more so (due to less sound proofing) - so any rattling etc might make it even more immersive?!

C.

Click to expand...

Well, I do know what you mean. Most of the race cars I have driven also produce a fair amount of interesting noises. However, a couple of pieces of wood rattling together isn't going to come across as a realistic race car soundtrack. It's just going to sound like wood buzzing against its brethren.

Most people I have talked to describe rattles/buzzing (in a home cockpit situation) as an annoyance/distraction.

Looking forward to seeing your results. If I might add, if you use a sealant between each join, this will insure all vibrations are absorbed. Allow the sealant to completely dry before connecting and be liberal with the amount. If you do this correctly, no pieces will actually touch another piece, so only your seat needs to be directly in contact with that part of the base, to insure the vibrations are going to where they are required.
The sealant can be applied to the wheel mount area, to also isolate the FF vibrations.
All bolts should not need to be super tight, as the sealant will push back against the tightening nut. Rubber could be used in place of the sealant, but at a cost.

Good luck hope to see it soon.

Click to expand...

Hmmmm.... Any particular type of sealant I should be looking at? Any problems with the sealant adhering to the wood.

BTW, I'm going to sketch out a rough idea of the cockpit now that I have about 10 minutes to spare. It's not going to be in AutoCAD or anything, but you'll get the idea at least.

EDIT: Only had MS Paint to work with (work PC), so it's not perfect. Still, you should be able to discern the basic idea (see attached). A console will by built that is an extension of the front section (wheel/pedal section) that will incorporate the shifter (Fanatec Porsche 911 H-Gate shifter). It's not included in the drawing because we will not begin that part of the build until we receive our wheels, shifter sets, and Pedals from Fanatec (June/July). Also, there will be a small mounting point (adjustable) under the wheel tray (and coming back/up toward the driver) for use of the Fanatec Sequential gear stick (Rally Games). Of course either shifter will be able to be moved to either location. My focus, however, was to create an authentic old school rally layout. For most other types of games I will use the traditionally mounted H-Gate shifter.

As long as you apply the sealant to bare timber, it will adhere no problems.
"No More Nails" is a type that is used here, made by "Selleys". Not sure if you guys have that brand, but any decent hardware will be able to supply you with something similar.

The woodwork guy you mentioned,who owns the shop, will know the right type.

zed300

As long as you apply the sealant to bare timber, it will adhere no problems.
"No More Nails" is a type that is used here, made by "Selleys". Not sure if you guys have that brand, but any decent hardware will be able to supply you with something similar.

The woodwork guy you mentioned,who owns the shop, will know the right type.

Click to expand...

Thank you. I will go to my local Lowes, and see what they have to say.

Thanks again.

T-Minus 2 days until the start of the build on Friday.

I will post up some better (albeit cell phone photos) diagrams I had drawn before butchering the measurments/scale in MS Paint, when bored at work.

Should give you all a much better idea of my plans...