PURE | JGTS - Going on strong and adapting in the face of change!

.: NEWS :.​

.: RACE SPECIFICS | S9 | IRS | 42/12 LAPS | FEB 5 :.​

Race Specifics:
Standard OLR rules apply as always.

Pit Entry: There's a solid white line straight across the entrance, so obviously, you have to cut it to enter the pits. If you turn in to the pits too late, you'll cross 2 solid white lines. Crossing 2 solid white lines when entering the pits is not allowed, and will be penallized.

Pit Exit: As always, stay inside the white line when exiting the pits. Cars on track approach at 290-300 km/h, and will have a hard time trying to avoid anything that's not expected.
Same goes for cars on track: You can cross the white pit exit line, but if you interfere with a car comming out from the pits, you'll be held responsible for any incident that might occur due to you crossing the white solid pit exit line.

Track bounderies: Always stay inside the white line/red and white rumble strip with at least 2 wheels all the time.
In the final sweeping turn (On the big oval), the solid white line and the rumbles do not line up. The rumbles are what decides track limits in this turn, not the solid white line.

Start: The pole sitter need to make sure that all cars are on the oval before starting the race. Meening that cars can still be in the last turn when pole sitter decides to start. The final turn is so wide, so there's no problem with starting before all cars are clear of it. The pole sitter have to start the race before crossing the start/finish line.

.: RULES | PROCEDURES | RACING CONDUCT :.​

All OLR rules apply to our series and will be cited if and when dealing with race infractions or penalties. The only thing we would add is a 'Blue Flag' rule which states that you must do your best to allow faster cars driving by you when being lapped to safely and quickly overtake.
All race specific details and news will be posted in post 1 at the top of the thread for each week.

Administration::
These are the driver stewards who will be granted authoring access for our website at http://pure.gate19.net. They will be able to set up rooms for anyone to qualify in and are thusly held responsible for any times collected under their watch. Anyone on the list can also opt out (more will be added as the season goes along):

RIP_Welsh_Don
Joshua1994
bluesix
Aderrrm
Wardez
BrosifDuder
Denilson
CSLACR
Paginas1
Biffy
OwensRacing
Imari
Nastradamus87
redreevos
WiiFreak
Scanny_Flick
GV27
Dr_Watson
MULE_9242
Supersic
The_Outlaw
Litchi​

These are the drivers who are qualified to host a race, important due to our promotion/demotion division system (more will be added as connections and participation is confirmed):

Denilson
Wardez
Aderrrm
CSLACR
Paginas1
Dr_Watson
Litchi​

Ballast::
1st place: 60kg 2nd: 40kg 3rd: 20kg. 120 kg cap. -20kg for each result placed off podium.
No ballast in D2

Green Flag time::
Sunday - 18.00 GMT | 10.00 Pacific Standard Time | Monday - 5.00 Australian Eastern Standard Time

Room Profile::
Slots: 15
Race Quality: *High
VOIP: Disabled
Host: Unfixed

Track Settings -
Event Settings:
Everything default except number of laps -
Penalty: None
Race Finish Delay: Maximum
Visible Damage: On
Mechanical Damage: Heavy
Slipstream Strength: Weak
Tire Wear/Fuel: On
Grip Reduction on Wet Track/Track Edge: Real

Regulation Settings -
Car Restrictions: Super GT
Tires: Racing Hard (R1)
Vehicle Tuning: Unrestricted
ABS: Optional
Traction Control: OFF
Active Steering: OFF
Skid Recovery Force: OFF
ASM: OFF
Driving Line: OFF


Qualifying::
The divisional system will only set the field of drivers, a live, week-long, qualifying system will still set the grid. So even if a driver in D2 is faster than a driver in D1 when comparing lap times, the D2 driver still stays in D2.*
You only get one attempt at setting your time so choose it wisely. You can PM any of the stewards in order to communicate with them to set up a qualifying room. You can also add them on PSN with their permission in order to make it easier to find each other. But feel encouraged in getting to know all of your fellow racers on a first name basis to make it a more pleasant experience. It's a great group!

Procedure:
Each driver will quali in race mode. The host will give the go ahead to join track after doing two car checks. A maximum of four drivers can qualify at the same time but only if there are four more drivers in the racing lobby able to spectate the session and confirm the laps as clean. These other drivers do not need to be stewards themselves. The race will be set to 4 laps.
All stewards are required to save the replay.

Lap 1 is your warm up, Lap 2 and 3 are your 2 flyers, lap 4 is your "cool down." The 4th lap is an extension to give the steward time to note the data.You must always finish the 4th lap if not stated otherwise by the steward.The 4th lap is also there if more than 1 car is qualifying at the same time (Start with 15 seconds between drivers). This is because, technically, the last friver in a session can be more than 180 seconds behind (which is the maximum end race timer setting), so to make sure even the last driver is able to finish his 2nd flying lap, the 4th lap is there.

If a lap is dirty a standard penalty of 5% of the dirty lap's time will be added onto it to make the time official. A clean lap will always be made the official time over a dirty lap even if the dirty lap with the penalty added is still faster.
A qualifying session can under no curcuimstance be restarted. You'll get one shot, and one shot only.

In case of a disconnection:
you're allowed to reconnect and start from where you left off (must be confirmed by the observing steward) but the lap that you disconnected on will count as "dirty" with no registered lap time.
So if you disconnect during your warm up lap, all is good, just reconnect and restart your session.If you disconnect during your first flying lap (Lap: 2), that lap is dirty, and you may reconnect, but this time, only your second flying lap (Lap: 3) will count.If you disconnect during you second flying lap (Lap: 3), your first flyer will be your time. No need to restart the session since your last flyer, the one you disconnected on in this case, is dirty with no registered lap time.

If the person watching your lap, if it's just the two of you for example, disconnects for some reason this automatically disqualifies the session unless you save and upload the replay and the host watching confirms that the laps in the replay was indeed the session he was watching. Otherwise you must re-attempt your qualifying.

Race Day::
Race begins strictly at 18.00 GMT- All drivers must join *their respective race room by 17.45 GMT at the latest. Weight checks begin at this time exactly. The track will be reset at this time.- First a weight check will be done (for ballast), join pit stalls one by one as the host calls your machine. After this check it complete the host will request all to revert back to the racing lobby. Do not go into settings, any driver that has gone into settings will be forced to undergo a secondary weight check, doing it twice will disqualify you from the race. The second check is a performance point verification to ensure machine specification. Drivers that are late must wait until the initial procedure is completed then have an isolated weight and performance point check conducted. Being late to inspection multiple times will not be tolerated.- Please stay off the chat during all racing procedures.

Race day time table:17.00-17.15 GMT: Race room opens (Connect Time)17.45: Bhp, PP and Weight Checks begin.18.00: Formation lap begins.

Formation Lap::
First time pole sitters will be contacted for confirmation of the following regulations:- Even pace at 100 kmh / 62 mph, wait for the grid to line up behind on the main straight before he starting the race by applying full throttle.- A staggered double-file line is used for our rolling start. Refer to the image posted in the OP for layout. You must not overlap the car ahead of you.- Do not pass any car until you're past the point the pole sitter started the race at.- No weaving is allowed during formation lap.- Pole sitter will be contacted on what side of the track they would prefer to start from (right or left). This detail will be posted in post #1 (race specifics).*- Even number qualifiers will always be on the second place cars lane. Odd number qualifiers will be in the pole sitters lane on the other side.- Jump starts will be given warnings or penalties depending on severity.

Retirements::
If a driver wants to give up, under a non-emergency situation, he should find clear track (no cars) and proceed safely to the pits. Park your car in the stall by pushing "start" as you're entering pit lane. Do not simply push start after you decide to quit and leave it be. This causes your car to become a potentially dangerous moving obstacle. This will be grounds for a disqualifcation for the race and possible follow up penalties.
A ragequit equals instant ban!
You must compelte 75% of the race distance in order to be ranked among the point finishers of the race. Positions for multiple DNF drivers will be ranked according to time of retirement.


Division System::
This division system seems complicated at first, but really is a beautiful concoction of a thing that really is the fairest possible approach to allowing the closest racing possible in an online environment. The great thing about it is that this method rewards consistency, not absolute speed. Ok, now follow me here:
-Race 1- The divisions will intiially be set by a regular open qualification. This means every one will have a chance to make division 1 for the first race. Fastest 14 times make D1, and times 15-28 make D2.
Times from 29 down will form the waiting list.
So Race 1 will be raced as the result from the first qualifier.

-Race 2- The drivers who made D1 for stage 1, will automatically also be in D1 for race 2.
The grid for race 2 will be set similarly to the open qualifying week for race 1 but in this case, all drivers are locked into their divisions, meaning that even if you're faster than someone in D1 for race 2, you will stay in D2 and be ranked accordingly among the rest of last week's D2 drivers.

-After race 2- The total point scores from the previous two races for each driver will be combined. Bottom 4 scorers over the two races in D1 are demoted to D2 and top 4 scorers in D2 will be promoted to D1 for race 3.

-Race 3-4- Scores from races 3 and 4 will be combined in order to decide top scorers and lowest scorers for promotion/demotion going into race 5-Race 5-6Scores from races 5 and 6 will be combined in order to decide top scorers and lowest scorers for promotion/demotion going into race 7-Race 7-8Scores from races 7 and 8 will be combined in order to decide top scorers and lowest scorers for promotion/demotion going into race 9-Race 9

-Prior to race 10 the qualifier will be open as it was for race 1 to decide the grid for this final race.

DNS or non-point scoring DNF's WIP:
If a driver misses 1 of the 2 first races, for example, his one point scoring result will be taken then multiplied by 0.5 (yes, zero-point-five) to make a mock "virtual" value. This score will then be combined with the actual score in order to make a good estimated score based on his performance last race. The 0.5 multiplier acts as an allowance assuming the driver would have finished at or around the same position with a slight buffer given.

So if a D2 driver finished with 10 points in race 1 and then missed race 2 he will be ranked among the D2 drivers in consideration for promotion to D1 like so:
10 x 0.5 = 5 + 10 = 15. 15 will be the number we will use to compare against the other D2 drivers but this number will not be his actual point score. "15" is solely for ranking during promotion/demotion weeks. The driver in this example would only have 10 points posted to the points table. If the driver missed race 1 but not 2 then race 1 will act as the virtual score.

This number will be higher for those that actually attempted to join a race on raceday and wasn't able to continue due to technical problems. They must've at least been qualified and attempted to join a race room (race host of the room must confirm their attempt). If the driver did all they could to race but could not, they will get a DNS multiplier of 0.7.

Reserve Drivers/ drop ins:
Drivers joining in the middle of the season must always start in D2 of their first race. They can only get into D1 by scoring highly and being promoted for the next promotion race. Say they come in on race 6, but scores from race 5 and 6 are going to be used to promote the highest scorers. In this driver's case race 5 will be treated as the virtual score added with their actual score in round 6. If the combined virtual score is high enough when ranked with the other drivers (top 4) they will be promoted.*
Note, when calculating promotions/relegations, we only calculate the 2 most recent races. Previus points are not counted for. It would be a huge disadvantage for the new comers.




Thank you.

.: PENALTIES :.​

You get infraction points for any offences listed here:
These infraction points will accumulate through out the season. At the end of the season drivers will have their total "IP'S". The IP score will be divided by the number of races you've completed at least 75% of. This number will then become your penalty percantage which means that that much percent of your total points score will be taken off as your punishment.
Say you scored 300 points by the end of the season and made 9 races with 140 infraction points.
140 / 9 = 16 (we will round up).
16% of 300 = 48 points taken off your total score to make a final score of 252.
Penalties will only be calculated at the end of the season. All race results will be final immediately after it's completed.

(Heat 2 rules: mandatory pit, half points, reversing the initial grid order, not the final result from round 1, so yes, a rolling start).

.: QUALI RESULTS | RACE RESULTS | STAGE 1 :.​

When racing in an OFFICIAL PURE JGTS room, your car is supposed to be tuned to the following specs. Note that the PP is when aero is maxed out. You're allowed to tweak your aero settings, but you can not tune up your engine to make up for the PP lost through reducing aero values.


Nissan XANAVI NISMO GT-R, Nissan CALSONIC IMPUL GT-R, Nissan YELLOWHAT YMS TOMICA GT-R, Nissan AUTECH MOTUL GT-R
Bhp: 518
Weight: 1130 kg (Recommended Ballast Position: 0)
PP: 607 (With Full Aero)
PL: 100%
Allowed mods: Ridgity Improvement

Nissan WOODONE ADVAN CLARION GT-R
Bhp:
Weight: 1100 kg
PP: 607 (With Full Aero)
PL:
Allowed Mods: Turbo Stage 2, Ridgity Improvement

Nissan STEALTH GT500 GT-R
Bhp: 502
Weight: 1130 kg
PP: 608 (With Full Aero)
PL: 87,8%
Allowed Mods: Ridgity Improvement

Honda ARTA NSX, Honda RAYBRIG NSX, Honda TAKATA DOME NSX
Bhp: RAYBRIG: 515 | TAKATA DOME/ARTA: 511
Weight: 1100 kg
PP: RAYBRIG: 606 | TAKATA DOME/ARTA: 606 (With Full Aero)
PL: RAYBRIG: 96,6% | TAKATA DOME/ARTA: 94,2%
Allowed Mods: Turbo Stage 2, Ridgity Improvement

Honda EPSON NSX
Bhp: 530
Weight: 1150 (Recommended Ballast Position: -50)
PP: 606 (With Full Aero)
PL: 99,5%
Allowed Mods: Turbo Stage 2, Ridgity Improvement

Honda STEALTH GT500 NSX
Bhp: 516
Weight: 1100 kg
PP: 606 (With Full Aero)
PL: 95,4%
Allowed Mods: Ridgity Improvement

Lexus DENSO DUNLOP SARD SC430, Lexus PETRONAS TOM'S SC430
Bhp: 513
Weight: 1130 kg (Recommended Ballast Position: 0)
PP: 609 (With Full Aero)
PL: 95,2%
Allowed Mods: Turbo Stage 2, Ridgity Improvement

Lexus BANDAI DIREZZA SC430
Bhp: 528
Weight: 1100 kg
PP: 612 (With Full Aero)
PL: 99,1%
Allowed Mods: Turbo Stage 2, Ridgity Improvement

Lexus ENEOS SC430
Bhp: 534
Weight: 1100 kg
PP: 610 (With Full Aero)
PL: 99,1%
Allowed Mods: Turbo Stage 2, Ridgity Improvement

Nissan XANAVI NISMO Z
Bhp: 505
Weight: 1130 kg (Recommended Ballast Position: 5)
PP: 615 (With Full Aero)
PL: 94,6%
Allowed Mods: Ridgity Improvement

Toyota YELLOWHAT SUPRA
Bhp: 519
Weight: 1090 kg (Recommended Ballast Position: 50)
PP: 604 (With Full Aero)
PL: 97,2%
Allowed Mods: Engine Stage 3, Ridgity Improvement

Toyota CASTROL TOM'S SUPRA
Bhp: 515
Weight: 1150 kg
PP: 611 (Max Allowed DF: 40/65)
PL: 99,7%
Allowed Mods: Ridgity Improvement



IMPORTANT NOTE:
When you set up your car according to this list (or any PURE JGTS specs sheet for that matter), make sure:
1. That your car is fully run in.
2. That your car got fresh oil.
3. All PP's stated are whith Aero maxed out.
4. That when you look at your engines output, it's the numbers you'll see when in the settings menu that counts.
I.e: The ARTA NSX show 518 Bhp when viewed in your car list, but show 517 Bhp when viewed in the settings menu.
Settings Menu is what show the correct values, and is therefore the one PURE JGTS use.



In this section, I'll post some tunes for different cars that I've used during my test sessions. It's not any miracle tunings, but a base for one who want to test something in case he feels totally lost. Hope it at least help a tad.

Nissan AUTECH MOTUL GT-R:
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 10 / 20 / 10
CAM: 2,3 / 1,7
TOE: -0,08 / -0,02
RH: 0 / -1
SR: 15,3 / 14,9
EXT: 7 / 6
COM: 6 / 6
ARB: 5 / 4
BB: 2 / 4

Spa: 1:15.2XX
Monaco: 1:31.5XX
Monza: 1:45,7XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Lexus BANDAI DIREZZA SC430:
DF: 35 / 60
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 10 / 20 / 5
CAM: 2,4 / 1,8
TOE: -0,06 / -0,12
RH: -1 / -3
SR: 14,8 / 15,3
EXT: 7 / 7
COM: 6 / 7
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 4 / 4

Spa: 1:14.7XX
Monaco: 1:31.6XX
Monza: 1:45.2XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Lexus ENEOS SC430: 1
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 5 / 14 / 15
CAM: 2,1 / 1,7
TOE: -0,06 / -0,04
RH: -10 / -2
SR: 14,8 / 15,8
EXT: 8 / 8
COM: 8 / 8
ARB: 3 / 3
BB: 5 / 2

Monaco: 1:32.0XX

Lexus ENEOS SC430: 2
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 5 / 16 / 12
CAM: 2,3 / 1,7
TOE: -0,06 / -0,04
RH: -3 / -2
SR: 14,4 / 15,4
EXT: 7 / 7
COM: 7 / 7
ARB: 3 / 3
BB: 4 / 4

Monza: 1:45.5XX
Spa: 1:15.1XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Honda TAKATA DOME NSX: 1
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 8 / 12 / 5
CAM: 2,1 / 2,1
TOE: -0,02 / -0,04
RH: 1 / 0
SR: 13,8 / 14,2
EXT: 7 / 7
COM: 7 / 7
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 5 / 3

Spa: 1:14.9XX
Monaco: 1:31.9XX

Honda TAKATA DOME NSX: 2
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 8 / 14 / 5
CAM: 2,2 / 1,6
TOE: -0,06 / -0,04
RH: -10 / 0
SR: 14,8 / 15,8
EXT: 7 / 8
COM: 7 / 8
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 5 / 4

Monza: 1:45,2XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Honda RAYBRIG NSX:
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 8 / 14 / 5
CAM: 2,2 / 1,6
TOE: -0,06 / -0,04
RH: -10 / 0
SR: 14,8 / 15,8
EXT: 7 / 8
COM: 7 / 8
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 5 / 4

Monza: 1:45,2XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Honda EPSON NSX:
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 8 / 12 / 5
CAM: 2,2 / 1,7
TOE: -0,06 / -0,04
RH: -10 / 0
SR: 13,8 / 14,8
EXT: 7 / 8
COM: 7 / 8
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 5 / 3

Monza: 1:45,2XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Toyota YELLOWHAT SUPRA 1:
DF: 35 / 60
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 10 / 20 / 5
CAM: 2,3 / 1,8
TOE: -0,08 / -0,04
RH: 0 / -2
SR: 14,6 / 15,6
EXT: 7 / 7
COM: 7 / 7
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 3 / 4

Spa: 1:14.8XX
Monaco: 1:31.9XX

Toyota YELLOWHAT SUPRA 2:
DF: 35 / 60
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 6 / 18 / 5
CAM: 2,3 / 1,8
TOE: -0,08 / -0,04
RH: 0 / -10
SR: 14,6 / 15,6
EXT: 7 / 8
COM: 7 / 8
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 5 / 5

Monza: 1:45,1XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Lexus PETRONAS TOM'S SC430:
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 10 / 16 / 5
CAM: 2,3 / 1,7
TOE: -0,06 / -0,14
RH: 0 / -1
SR: 14,7 / 14,9
EXT: 7 / 7
COM: 7 / 7
ARB: 5 / 5
BB: 3 / 4

Spa: 1:15.3XX
monaco: 1:31.5XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Totota CASTROL TOM'S SUPRA:
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 8 / 9 / 8
CAM: 2,4 / 1,8
TOE: -0,06 / -0,08
RH: -2 / -2
SR: 14,8 / 15,1
EXT: 7 / 7
COM: 7 / 7
ARB: 3 / 3
BB: 3 / 5

Spa: 1:15.1XX
Monaco: Pending
Monza: 1:45.7XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Nissan XANAVI NISMO Z:
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 8 / 10 / 8
CAM: 2,3 / 2,1
TOE: -0,06 / 0,00
RH: -2 / -4
SR: 15,2 / 16,8
EXT: 7 / 8
COM: 7 / 8
ARB: 5 / 4
BB: 1 / 2

Spa: 1:15.2XX
Monaco: 1:31.5XX
Monza: 1:45.7XX



In this section, I'll share my view on how I experiance the different settings and what they do to the car. This is not stated as any sientific proof, or something that's concidered to be truth. It's simply my view on things. The ones of you who already feel confident in your tuning do not need this list I suppose. I made this one for some of you who claims you can't tuna car at all and need some help/guidinece.


Down Force:
Airflow. By increasing your wing angles, more area catch the air, and push the car towards the ground.
In GT5, maximum settings are recommended at all times.
You can tweak the settings a tad to help your cars balance.
If your car does not rotate (Tend to go straight forward, or "under steer") mid corner, a slightly lower rear aero setting can help your car to rotate more.
If you feel the opposite (Your car tends to oversteer) mid corner, a slightly lower front aero setting can help your car to rotate less.
If your car feels heavy in the front, and you got issues with front tire wear, reducing front aero can help your car to put less weight on the fronts during cornering (Also on straights, but it's rarely on the straights you experiance this feeling)

Gear Ratio:
How fast do I need to go?
A good indicator on how you should set your gear ratios is acchieved by looking at your engine specs. Where does your engine produce peak power?
Let's say 518 Bhp at 6500 rpm.
The number 6500 is what you should look at. When driving on a long straight close to top speed, your revs should be at 6500 rpm even if your rew counter allows 8000 rpm.
Why? Because at high speed, air resistance is huge, and to make the car charge thru the wall of air, it needs as much power as possible.
I am not one of those who set my car up for a slip stream race. Sure, we can need those extra km/h maybee once or twice during the race, but to maximize your speed on all the other laps is a priority for me. You will always be able to keep up anyway.

LSD:
The differential got 3 different values to set.
Initial: Power goes thru the engine-> Gear box -> crank shaft->differential (LSD)->wheels. This setting can decide how much power it requires for it to be active. Meening a high value will make the drivetrain stiff->the car will feel like an old muscle car. The car will not turn, cause the rear wheels spin at the same pace all the time->The car rotates less. Set it too low, and the tires that need power to accelarate will get less power feeded thru the LSD, wich will have a negative affect on acceleration.
If this setting is too high, the settings you make for the acceleration and breaking will have no impact, cause the LSD is never active.
Acceleration: Assuming your initial setting is good, this settnig will feed the wheels with different power depending on the grip of the wheels. If set too low, your inner wheel (The one with less load on it) will be fed all the power, causing it to spin, and the outher wheel that got more grip will not be able to accelerate the car. The trick is to find a level where the outher and inner wheel do not spin. You could turn up this setting, but if set too high, the rear axel will become stiff, and the car will get in to powerslides (over steer). A tip is to watch your tire indicators while accelerationg out of corners. If the inner wheel picks up more heat (Or even turns red) than the outher wheel your setting is too weak. If the car powerslides, your setting is too strong.
Breaking: When approaching a corner, you want stability in your car. But if you turn this setting too strong, turn in will be affected in a bad way and the car tend to just keep a stright line. Set it too loose and the car will over steer on entry. Even the slightest steeringwheel movements can trigger this behaviour. A car like the NSX need a higher setting than a GT-R for instance. The GT-R is well balanced and does not need much of this setting at all, while a car that tends to over steer as soon as you turn in need a higher setting. We are driving Super GT cars, and the ones who might have a harder time with turn in are the NSX's. However, since we added the extra 30 kg to the front, the NSX handles much better at turn in. I had to run this setting at max when driving the EPSON NSX before, but now, when the weight distribution is better, this setting is almost the same as for the GT-R's (5), but I tend to keep it at 10, cause the NSX is still heavy in the rear.

Camber:
1. Negative Camber: //-----\\
2. Positive Camber: \\-----//
We always use Negative camber (Positive Cambers are for cars that needs off set suspention due to monotonius conditions. I.e NASCARS)
I estimate what kind of speeds I'll be at in the corners for a sertain track. A track with many fast torns equals more negative camber, and a slower circuit with slower corners meens less camber.
Why?
When turning your car, the majority of the weight will "rest" on the outher wheels. So when turning left with a negative camber setting will force the outher wheel (The one with most weight on it) to lay flat agains the tarmac, nicreasing grip. Your wheels will look like this in a left turn //-----|| when camber is set properly. If you set too much camber, your wheels will look like this //-----//, causing the car to slide (your tire wear indicators will go red).
And the faster the corners, the more weight on the outher weels, the more negative camber is needed.
Why does many ride more aggressive camber on the fronts compared to the rear?
Because the front is less sensitive when it comes to camber. If you apply to much camber to the rear, it will decrease the contact area of the tires when going straigh. What do the car do when going straight? It accelarates. During acceleration, we want as much tire as possible in contact with the surface. By setting too aggressive rear camber also wears out the rears faster due to less grip, wich equals spinning tires.
I.e. At Suzuka (A track with a lot of fast corners) my camber tends to be around 2,4 in the fronts, and 1,9 in the rear. Compared to Monaco, where I might run 1,9 in the fronts and 1,5 in the rear. All because the cornering speed at Suzuka is much higher than at Monaco.

Toe:
- Toe seen ("toe out") from above: \\-----//
+ Toe seen ("toe in") from above: //-----\\
Front:
I'm not sure att all about this setting. When I set my car up, I often use -toe. Because the car is pretty stiff (It's a race car, right?), so the car does not "sit" during acceleration or "dive" during breaking. And because of that, I use -toe. When driving a race car, it tends to help at turn-in. Some tracks requires a very soft set up, and when my car is very soft, it tends to "sit" and "dive" during acceleration and breaking. When the car is soft enough for it to "dive", the front wheels get more load, and if I turn with a lot of weight on the fronts, I tend to run +toe ( //-----\\ ). Cause the weight is even more on the outher wheels, and if the outher wheel points more to where you want to go, the initial turn in becomes quicker. This is not something I use that much, but sometimes I think it's required. It wears the fronts more tho.
Rear:
This setting is something that really depends on the car you're driving. I want my car to rotate as much as possible without loosing my rear in over steer. A -toe setting will help your car to rotate more. Cause the outher wheel get more load than the inner one, so if the rear outher wheel forces the rear to come out, the car will turn more effortless. Too much negative rear toe, and you'll experiance oversteer. My best tip is to get a feel for the car, and decide if you want it to rotate more or less. One corner where you def can feel this is the famous dunlop corner at Suzuka (The uphill left after the S-bends towards the end of sector 1). I had a lot of trouble going thru there at full throttle without going wide out in the sand. So I had to let of the throttle for a second to get the car pointing to where I wanted to go. And by increasing rear -toe, I could now hold my throttle down 100% thru the entire turn.
A really tailhappy car need more +toe, and a car that tends to just plow straight in the corners need more -toe in general.


Ride Hight:
I tend to run this setting as close to 0 as possible. I beliwve that these cars are low as default, and not like your everyday car fittet with an aftermarket suspention that lowers it an inch or two. What I try to find is a good relation between front and rear ride hight. This does not meen that I set them at the same hight, it meens that I want a car that feels neutral. If my car over steers on exit, I lower the rear to force the back end to stay still, or if I feel that the car is too low in the rear, pushing it straight forward when accelerating out of a corner I loose it up.
The front ride hight is a bit more complex than the rear imo. If you feel that your car is under steering, I always loosen the front rather than lowering it. A lower front will only put more strain on the car, increasing tire wear as a result. So by softening the front, I feel that the cars front is "lighter" and moves around more effortless. A good comparison of what I men is to try the M3 E46, and then try the M3 CSL. The difference how "heavy" the front feels is exactly the feeling I get when making my front higher in a race car. Not to the same degree, but the same principal.

Spring Rate:
I always set my spring rate in relation to the ride hight. But also taking in to account if the car over or under steers. If I run 0/0 ride hight on a car that tend to under steer, I run slightly lower settings in the rear compared to the fronts. And if my car tends to over steer, I run harder rear settings. It's hard to say a fighure, but somewhere between 13-16 is what I use if my cars ride hight is close to 0 ( + / - a few "clicks").

Dampers:
*Extention: How hard will the suspention push the car up again. I use 6 or 7 almost all the time. 8 is a hard setting imo, and 5 is a soft setting.
To cure over steer on exit of corners, I tend to increase rear extention in relation with the rear spring rate and rear ride hight. All I'm really thinking of when tuning this setting is that it cant be too stiff, cause it will cause my car to bounce on bumpe-> contact with the road is lost->acceleration, breaking, handling is affected negatively. Basically, you want to keep your tires in contact with the track. If a track is bumpy, your setting should be a tad softer (5-6), if the track is more level a setting between 6-7 should do the job, and if you run on a really even track like an oval or similar, my settings could perhaps end up at around 7-8. Remember that all these numbers are in relation to my ride hight and spring rate.
*Compression: How much does it take to press it together. Pretty much the same as above.
I do know that you can cure over and under steer with this setting, but I've not yet fighured out what does what. Instead I just set the ext and com in relation to my ride hight and spring rate.
(Would love to have more knowledge about this setting)

Anti Roll Bars:
While the in-game information says that a hard suspention per automatic should loose up the anti roll bars is not something I would agree on. Perhaps it's more true for a production car rather than our SGT's. I've found that this setting can be pretty much whatever. The most important thing is to adjust by the way you feel the car, not by the numbers on your RH, SR, EXT, COM etc. A car that "plows" thru a corner a tad could be helped with a looser front anti roll bar, and a car that over steers can be cured with a stiffer rear anti roll bar imo. This setting does not have near as much affect on the over/under steer issues as the RH, SR, EXT, COm does, but what it can do is to make minor adjustments if you feel that you got your other settings spot on. A settings for small small tweaks if you ask me (When it comes to SGT's that is).

Brake Balance:
The higher the number, the more power to the breakes.
Mainly, I look at tire wear when tuning this setting. I.e, the GT-R's can be hard on the fronts, and if so, I reduce my front brake bias, and increase the rear. On the other hand, an NSX def wear out the rear more compared to the fronts, so in this case, I do the oposite, a higher value on the fronts and a lower value on the rears.
This setting can also help to create over/under steer on corner entry. A higher front setting will throw the rear around if you brake while turning, and a higher rear setting will help the car go straight while breaking.


Relations: More or less everything in a tune relates another setting to various levels. Ther's a million different relations when it comes to tuning, so including them all in this guide is impossible. I'll list some of my most used ones and hope it will help enough.
Ride hight - Spring rate - dampers are closely related. You must make sure to tune it all to work together. If your car is set up well, and you adjust for more or less rotation, make sure to change all these settings, not just one.
LSD - Rear Toe are related. If your car rotates perfect, but you want more power out of the corners, you might want to stiffen up your LSD acceleration, but when you do, you'll feed the outher wheel with more power, so the toe angle you had might not work so well any more, you might need to decrease it to keep your cer from powersliding.
Front camber - Rear toe are ralted. Let's say your car rotates perfect, but you have trouble with fron tire wear. If you reduce the front camber and put more negative rear toe, the rear toe setings will help the car turn, and less stress is put on the front->need less camber->less front tire wear->same rotation.

Races are on Sunday. Provisional time is 18:00 GMT

Denilson

Invitations will be sent tonight. More coming very soon...​

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Malicious URL blocked.

Every time I load this image or click the link, even just viewing the thread.

Should be good now. Let me know thanks 👍

Wardez

Should be good now. Let me know thanks 👍

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Came up before I could even see the page. "threat has been detected", followed by prompt. No idea why it's doing it though.

Will I be getting an invite for this den?

I like it already.

im interested even though i know ill get my butt wooped

Racing hards, heavy damage, hour length races, series will begin in about two weeks.

The intended race time is marked at 18:00GMT / 10:00am PST.

We have rethought the penalty system and have adopted a method that does not affect points or results until the end of the season so all results will be official immediately. It's not time or points based, but scored percentage. This will be explained in the main thread as it comes together over the week.

Qualifying will be week long live knockout format.

The main thread will be slim lined, intuitive, and easy to read. With two sections, one for fixed information such as rule sets and calendars, and the other will be status information such as qualifying results, driver lists, championship tables, and important news updates. No excess.

sounds interesting wardez, so this is where you have been hiding lol.

can't wait to see more information

Looks very interesting and mysterious, like an All-Stars championship, so count me in 👍 Hope I can get in the GT-R (if it's available that is) for this, it's one of the only GT500 cars I can really push to the limits. Just a note, I was one of those people affected by this DLC account-lock thing, so even though up to Round 10 should be ample time for the update to come, just keep in mind I don't have Spa yet.

Biffy

Looks very interesting and mysterious, like an All-Stars championship, so count me in 👍 Hope I can get in the GT-R (if it's available that is) for this, it's one of the only GT500 cars I can really push to the limits. Just a note, I was one of those people affected by this DLC account-lock thing, so even though up to Round 10 should be ample time for the update to come, just keep in mind I don't have Spa yet.

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doesn't matter biffy, as long as the host has it everyone can play it

would be very funny, but on sunday its difficult for me... i'm not at home very often, but if is enough that i race sometimes i could partecipate..

I'm interested in this 👍

Sounds interesting. I got one foot in.

Any way we can push up the start time an hour or so?

Up, as in 19:00 GMT?

That would be too close to my FMSC race time of 20:00 GMT

Hmm this sounds interesting. What about regulations?

As in?

What parts we can have on the cars, HP, Aero, PP you know that kind of stuff... Most Super GT series on GTP just put the same HP for all cars but that's not really balanced as the cars are very different from each other

Hello racers. This is going to be very exciting series.

Appreciate the question Nep. Thanks for giving me the opportunity to clear that aspect up a bit... know that with our attention to detail, all cars in the championship will have full parity. Settings have been tweaked from an older formula in order to bring about the most diverse and well matched field possible. Stealth cars will also be added to the team roster.

Part of the first phase of this series is to see whether people can put enough faith forward based on the core goal of the series alone without needing to see all of it at once. It will slowly be rolled out over the week.

This sounds like a great Idea but lately I haven't had time to GT5. Heck I don't play for more than a week I think.
Sundays are a bit difficult as I recieve the odd guest to have dinner around 19:30 till 22:30, so It's impossible to commit to this.
I'm still not sure I'll be able to commit to WSGTC 3.

Aw it's ok Kamy, thanks a lot for letting us know. You'll always be welcome.

hmm... I'll have to keep an eye on this as more info pops up.

Awesome. Count me in

bahahaha, awesome man. This... is just going to be an all-together whole new experience.

If you guys could only see the others we have lined up...
You'll all find out shortly.

Wardez

Up, as in 19:00 GMT?

That would be too close to my FMSC race time of 20:00 GMT

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I meant earlier as in around the 16-17 GMT range.