GTP_WRS (GT5) Week 11 : NASCAR - WRS Style

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EDK

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:: GTP_Weekly Race Series ::

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GT5 Week 11 : NASCAR - WRS Style

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Hotlap Event in GT Mode Practice


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NASCARS

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Indianapolis Road Course


:: Only Open to Qualified GTP_Registered Members ::

:: Members are not obligated to take part ::

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Race Details:




  • Mode: GT Mode : Practice : A-Spec Free Run
  • Track: Road Course - Indy
  • Car Type: Premium
  • Make: Various - See List Below
  • Model: 2010 Camry, Impala or Fusion
  • Laps: Hotlap in A-Spec Free Run Practice

Any of the NASCARS Can be Used, but You MUST Keep Your Car Selection a Secret. This is a list of NASCARS on the Game -

Chevrolet Impala


  • Tony Stewart #14
  • Jeff Gordon #24
  • Juan Montoya # 42
  • Jimmie Johnson #48
  • Dale Earnhardt Junior #88

Ford Fusion


  • AJ Allmendinger #43
  • Carl Edwards #99
Toyota Camry


  • Denny Hamlin #11
  • Kyle Bush #18
  • Joey Logano #20
  • Brian Vickers #83

Vehicle Specifics:



  • Power: 869 HP (Stock Car with Oil Change) - This number will go up with Engine Break In. Max Power is fine.
  • Engine, Intake, and Exhaust Modifications : N/A
    [*]Engine Power Limiter : N/A
    [*]Oil Change : Required
  • Skid Recovery Force Aid: OFF (Those Found using this Aid will be DQ'd) - Be Careful - The Setting for This Aid is Whatever You Used Last - Be sure it's set to 'Off'
    [*]Other Aids (Traction Control, Active Steering, and ASM): Optional
  • Transmission: Optional - OK to alter individual gear ratios and final drive ratio
  • Aero: No Aero Parts can be installed on this car in GT Auto - Aero Tuning is Optional
  • Tire Type: Racing Medium (R2's)
  • Chassis Reinforcement: Optional
  • In Event Tuning Settings: Optional - NOTE: Any tuning gimmicks that offer an unfair advantage are not allowed. These would be things like the Subaru Toe Bug found on GT5 Prologue.



Race Specifics:




  • The event MUST be run using your GTP_Tag Account
  • The use of the clutch that is found on the G25, G27, and other high end racing wheels is strictly prohibited.
  • Rumble Strips and Tarmac are Track Surface.
  • The Concrete Surface found on the outside of the rumble strip and past white boundary lines in several turns is not track
  • See examples below. Those who use these runoff areas without keeping at least 2 wheels on Tarmac or Rumble Strips will be DQ'd.
The Following Areas are Not Part of the Track. If You do not keep at least 2 wheels on track surface, you will be DQ'd.


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The Concrete and Painted Concrete Surface Outside the Rumble Strip at Turn 7 (Trackside Left)


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Concrete Outside of the White Boundary Line on the Straight between Turns 7 and 8
(Trackside Left)

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Concrete Inside the Rumble Strip at Turn 8
(Trackside Left)

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Concrete Inside the Rumble Strip at Turn 11 (Trackside Right)

Steward's Comments:
Give this one a chance, even if you aren't a fan of NASCAR. The car handles really nicely on this flat road course, it will have you wishing they had more of these in the most popular racing series in the US.


Viewing your T1, T2 & T3 Lap Time Splits:




  • You need to make sure you save the 'Save Best Lap Replay' (ghost replay), not the 'Save Replay'.

  • To view your best lap replay, go to 'My Home' and watch the replay from there using the 'Replay Theater' option.
  • While Viewing Your Replay, Choose the "Live Timing Monitor" To View Your Sector Times
  • To post your T1 and T2 Splits, simply post the sector times that are shown in the live timing monitor.
  • The WRS Fetchbot has been updated and will now add your splits together!




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Save best lap / ghost replay icon

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Standard Clean OLR Rules:





  • 2 wheels on (or vertically in line with) the track at all times
  • Rumble/ripple strips are part of the track
  • Runoff areas are not part of the track
  • No contact with walls or objects, visible or invisible
  • If you're not 100% sure that your lap is clean, then consider it dirty
  • No hybrids
  • No cheating of any kind,these are relaxed races and we are experienced racers, we know what times can be done,and we can read your mind.We will know.
  • Nothing that goes against the spirit of the rules
  • Save your best lap/ghost replay




Thread rules:

The following information cannot be discussed in this thread (they can, however, be discussed on MSN or via other private conversation methods
):




  • Lap time
  • Any information which can be used to infer laptime
  • The Specific Car You are Using


The following information can be discussed in this thread
:





  • T1, T2 and T3 times
  • Any settings discussion.


Number of splits: 3

The posting of settings is encouraged, but it's certainly not mandatory. We respect anyone wishing not to post settings, so please do not publicly ask someone to post their settings, they will if they want to.
It is however expected for splits to be posted if you're taking part.



Submission:

All submissions must be sent by PM (Subject title: GTP_WRS Week 11 Submission ) to (WRSFetchbot):






  • Please submit your time in the following format on a single line:
    Time: X'XX.XXX
    (Example-) Time: 1'10.100
    [*]Users can ask the bot for the current submitted time by sending a message with the body: "get entry"
    [*]Users can delete their submitted time by sending a message with the body of "remove entry".
    [*]If multiple times are submitted, only the last submission will be counted.
    [*]Please include in your submission PM your final lap time
    [*]The deadline is Monday, May 2nd 11:59pm GMT
    [*]If you are unsure of the deadline try this site. Beware of the US Daylight Savings Time Change, don't cut it too close.




Why Use GMT?:

GMT is World Time and the basis of every world time zone which sets the time of day and is at the centre of the time zone map. GMT sets current time or official time around the globe. Most time changes are measured by GMT. Although GMT has been replaced by atomic time (UTC) it is still widely regarded as the correct time for every international time zone.


Time verification:


Save your ghost replay and keep it at least a full two weeks after the event's deadline:






  • Racers, named by the OLR Admin staff, (if any) will be required to submit a replay for verification
  • Any submitted time is subject to a time verification request
  • When a time verification has been requested, the concerned racer must provide the correct replay within seven days of the request
  • Failure to do so will result in the removal of the unverified submission from the results table
  • Video replays are not accepted as a form of verification




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Good luck, :gtplanet:
OLR Team
 
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This sounds like great fun, been unwell the last 5 days but really hope I will be feeling better soon to give this a go. I am no tuner have no clue when it comes to tuning cars but will give it my best shot.

Great choice EDK, I like the bigger track combos 👍
 
Not a big fan of NASCAR, but I will be happy to give this a go for sure.

Thanks for making this interesting every week Kev
 
Kevin, I know I'm supposed to wait until you are asleep to ask questions, but how do you want us to handle the increased HP that comes from engine break-in? I have a car with 892 HP and 567 ft/lbs, which is obviously over the limit. The PP are the same as a new car, though mine has over 1200 miles on it. If I drive a new car, I take it we are not to surpass the 869 threshhold, right?
 
Kevin, I know I'm supposed to wait until you are asleep to ask questions, but how do you want us to handle the increased HP that comes from engine break-in? I have a car with 892 HP and 567 ft/lbs, which is obviously over the limit. The PP are the same as a new car, though mine has over 1200 miles on it. If I drive a new car, I take it we are not to surpass the 869 threshhold, right?

Sorry, I just looked at the HP after an oil change. If the HP goes up with more break in, that's fine. 👍 I'll change the first post.
 
What about the power increase from driving? are we will gain a hp every couple miles for the first 200 driven on the car.
 
Kevin, I know I'm supposed to wait until you are asleep to ask questions, but how do you want us to handle the increased HP that comes from engine break-in? I have a car with 892 HP and 567 ft/lbs, which is obviously over the limit. The PP are the same as a new car, though mine has over 1200 miles on it. If I drive a new car, I take it we are not to surpass the 869 threshhold, right?

I guess we have to use a non broken in car, with just an oil change to take it to 869HP. You'll have to buy a new car if you don't have one that hasn't been broken in.

EDIT:- I have seen your post EDK, I'm happy with that, not that I have a say in the matter anyway.:)
 
I have no problem starting with a new car, which I will do. I wonder, though, how are we going to verify that everyone starts that way. I already have a HP advantage with my car should I choose to use it. That wouldn't be fair.
Either way, I will be chasing you down this week, ASH32, because I expect to be fast! I love these cars, and I love this track. If I have to drive another 1200 miles to do it, I will!! :dopey:
Plato, I will post my tune as soon as I get it, but I expect Rudi and a couple of the other tuners to post theirs, too, so the tuning shouldn't be much of a problem. :)
 
I have no problem starting with a new car, which I will do. I wonder, though, how are we going to verify that everyone starts that way. I already have a HP advantage with my car should I choose to use it. That wouldn't be fair.
Either way, I will be chasing you down this week, ASH32, because I expect to be fast! I love these cars, and I love this track. If I have to drive another 1200 miles to do it, I will!! :dopey:
Plato, I will post my tune as soon as I get it, but I expect Rudi and a couple of the other tuners to post theirs, too, so the tuning shouldn't be much of a problem. :)

Thanks, look forward to seeing your tuning techniques. Not that they will make any sense to me as I have no clue what does what to a car 👍

As for Rudi I think he said he was going back to iracing
 
I am another non-tuner here, so I'll be running this combo as soon as some kind person posts a tune.;) I don't think I'll have a problem with the car, the track I am not so certain on, it may take me a while to get to know it properly.:dopey:
 
Nice combo Kevin.

As a reference New car zero miles oil change and racing mediums fitted done 37.9 miles HP now at 871bhp.

T1: 0'23.446
T2: 0'21.996
T3: 0'18.308

Phillip.
 
Nice combo Kevin.

As a reference New car zero miles oil change and racing mediums fitted done 37.9 miles HP now at 871bhp.

T1: 0'23.446
T2: 0'21.996
T3: 0'18.308

Phillip.

What happens when the oil is dirty though? Are we allowed to change it again?

If the answer to these two questions are yes then by the end of the week I think we will all be running 892bhp, or does it only get that high if you do an engine overhaul which I know is forbidden for this TT.
 
What happens when the oil is dirty though? Are we allowed to change it again?

If the answer to these two questions are yes then by the end of the week I think we will all be running 892bhp, or does it only get that high if you do an engine overhaul which I know is forbidden for this TT.

892bhp is the max, so I guess everyone will want to be running at that all the time. So multiple oil changes becomes necessary.
 
892bhp is the max, so I guess everyone will want to be running at that all the time. So multiple oil changes becomes necessary.

Bottom line - HP does not show in the replay. And I've already said we will allow max HP.
 
Here's some general information to get you started. I'll be posting my tunes as I get them, but the collector's edition came with a book that offers some guidelines for tuning according to the track layout. I'll share that now for those who don't have it.
1. Put the front ride height lower than the rear. How much? It doesn't say, but I usually do about three clicks up in the back.
2. Shocks are stronger in the front than they are in the rear, both extension and compression, because the front is lower. Again, it doesn't say how much, so I will base my numbers on the track. Indy is very flat, so I would suggest softening the shocks, both front and rear, as much as you can, leaving the rear just a little bit softer.
3. Spring rates will also be harder in the front than the rear. How much is up to you.
4. The book calls for only having a little bit of toe-in for the rear, while camber is at zero. Truthfully, I almost always throw a little camber in there because the cars are so heavy.
5. The book doesn't address the sway bar, but I set mine at 4 in the front and 3 in the rear. I think the softer rear helps with the oversteer.

Personally, I also recommend buying the chassis reinforcement for this car, but there are plenty of tuners who say don't do that. I think it helps with the NASCAR rides, though. I will do the LSD, too, as that is where I will make my final tweaks towards performance. Jake is driving this as I type, and he's a much better tuner than I am, so I'm sure we will have a tune up for you within an hour or two. I hope this helps!!

Race On! :cheers:

Jake is up to 872 HP @ 50 miles. I've changed my mind and will run my car that's broken in, as well as the new one I just bought. I want to track how fast the HP's increase, and this is the perfect opportunity. I will be truthful in what lap times are achieved with what car, as I intend to run both cars all week. I'm not trying to cheat, and I won't submit any lap time that causes disruption in the community, I just want to compare the cars.

Also, I need an engine overhaul right now, but haven't done it because I'm too cheap.
 
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What happens when the oil is dirty though? Are we allowed to change it again?

If the answer to these two questions are yes then by the end of the week I think we will all be running 892bhp, or does it only get that high if you do an engine overhaul which I know is forbidden for this TT.


Man, I try to make things simple, and everyone just makes them more complicated.

Where did it say that an engine overhaul is forbidden?

It's not needed on a new motor, and the game is not going to allow you to do it on one.

Do anything you want to with the car, just don't use SRF, stay on the allowed track surfaces, and you'll be fine.
 
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By the way, Kevin, you didn't mandate everyone yells "BOOGITY BOOGITY BOOGITY!" at the start of every lap and "YEE HAW!" at the end! Or am I the only one?
 
Love the combo....much better than last week. 👍 From the online series racing I've done with other cars, once fully broken in the HP numbers should be equal. Weather it takes the same number of miles to break in a car is the same for one car vs. another I don't know. But I've seen other cars consistently be fully broken in after 180-200 miles. Right now mine has ~525 miles on the odo and is sitting @ 886HP with an oil change, haven't overhauled the engine yet so I'm guessing it will jump a few after that. Anyway, first shakedown splits....

T1: 23.061
T2: 21.331
T3: 18.129

Should we be listing the 4th split, or will fetchbot only take 3?
 
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Fetchbot takes 3 for this week, posting the 4th would give people your lap time ;)

Also, my Nascar is fully broken in at about 600 miles. I imagine most will have one with a few miles on it!
 
Dr Wankel, you posted t2 twice, not t3. Nevermind, fetchy got it anyway.
 
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Early splits - car only running 873bhp at the moment, so certainly expecting to see some time coming out of each sector during the week,

T1: 22.895
T2: 21.354
T3: 18.101


Updated splits and last ones from me tonight. Need to get some miles on the car to get the BHP bumped up still under 880, but have less than 100 miles on the clock:crazy:

T1: 22.750
T2: 21.244
T3: 18.020
 
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nice one Kev. Running my DFP setup at chuks tonight.

22.881
21.350
18.211
 
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