How to set up LSD: RWD cars

  • Thread starter oosacker
  • 23 comments
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1,847
This is for rear wheel drive cars only.

entering low-speed corners:
---------------------------------------
Problem: Underseer
Solution:
Initial: low
Accel: --
Decel: low

Problem: Oversteer
Solution:
Initial: high
Accel: --
Decel: high

exiting low-speed corners:
---------------------------------------
Problem: Underseer
Solution:
Initial: low
Accel: low
Decel: --

Problem: Oversteer
Solution:
Initial: high
Accel: high
Decel: --

entering med/high-speed corners:
---------------------------------------
Problem: Underseer
Solution:
Initial: low
Accel: --
Decel: slightly low

Problem: Oversteer
Solution:
Initial: high
Accel: --
Decel: slightly high

exiting med/high speed corners:
---------------------------------------
Problem: Underseer
Solution:
Initial: low
Accel: slightly low
Decel: --

Problem: Oversteer
Solution:
Initial: high
Accel: slightly high
Decel: --
 
Some notes for setting up Rear wheel drives:

-On a rear wheel drive with LSD, the rear wheels would push harder, resulting in accelerating understeer.

-Initial should usually be low.

-LSD on a RWD will make the over/under steering more obvious, therefore making it a bit tricky.
 
Nicely laid out Oosacker.

All I would add to this really is to make clear that what happens when you adjust the Accel and Decel values on an FR/MR LSD is that you are controlling the amount of Oversteer that happens in a given situation.

Any Understeer that shows up is as a result of restraining the tendency to Oversteer i.e. not allowing the rear of the car to drift out as much as it wants to.
 
Hey, good series - I managed to pull four seconds out of my Toyota GT1 around Midfield (down from mid 58 to low 54) and tidy my Nissan R390 up.
 
:lol:

Just been meaning to find some time to look into this further - I'd done some fooling around with the diffs my 1000hp R34 GT-R with a pretty fair degree of success, but then dropped it.

I made a little chart of all three threads you put up, and started tuning away.

The GT-One is a much happier car - it seems to be a touch faster than the R390, as you'd expect with a 140hp power advantage. I'd always really struggled with it, but have managed to get rid of the resistance to turn-in the car always suffered with.

One thing I noticed was you're now able to catch power-oversteer slides in the R390 and GT-One - I run the GT Force wheel and the change is quite noticeable under power.

I sat down to work with one of my Polyphony001s - I never realised how bad the understeer was in the F1 cars!
 
Originally posted by oosacker
errr f1s have understeer?
In GT3, big time - after you've been tuning 1200hp+ Le Mans cars for an hour or two, you really notice it (hence the reason they run -3 degrees of toe at the rear). There's so much grip at the rear (because of the enormous tyres) the front will wash before the rear - I've just been trying to tune it out.

It's the first time I'd really noticed it - I think my perception had shifted because of the Toyota and Nissan, and the F1 car was arriving at the first corner of Midfield with about 30-40kmh less straight line speed (but able to corner much much faster) than the R390 and GT-One.
 
Originally posted by FLYR31
I dont usually bother with lsds at all.

I never used to, until I started OLR. I'm finding that a RUF RGT is responding in a very odd way to LSD settings. I've used a combination of rear toe and LSD Decel to dial out turn-in oversteer, but now I find that I'm getting big-time understeer in long corners.

So I reduced the LSD Accel setting, and this made the problem worse!!

Grrr!
 
My are ALWAYS 5/5/5.

If drive with a wheel,... you'll know why;) I could never tell what they did with the DS/2,... but now that I have the wheel,... I'm glad I always kept them at 5/5/5:odd:
 
Red Eye Racer said;
My are ALWAYS 5/5/5.
If drive with a wheel,... you'll know why I could never tell what they did with the DS/2,... but now that I have the wheel,... I'm glad I always kept them at 5/5/5

Interesting, have you had this problem with your wheel? With certain cars during various stages of tire wear, the control of the car goes away really drastically. It happens on straight-aways and its like the wheel has a dead spot in the center and the car is veering slightly from side so side, and the front wheels are on ice. Sorry it’s kind of hard to explain but you post made me think you might have had this problem. It does not manifest itself in the DS2 controller at all.
Anyway any thoughts?
 
In all my experience with the ds/2, I couldn't ever feal much of a difference in the lsd's (excluding a move from 5 all the way to 60 of course),... all I knew was, my times wrer faster with them on 5's.

When I got the wheel, imediately (without thinking, only on instinct), I put my values to 5's. While experiencing difficulties with the wheel at first, I elected to experiment with the lsd.

Upon doing this I was horrified at the responces the wheel gave when turning them up. Not to say that it was harder to control, but it was certainly harder to manipulate the car into going fast,..... (hope that made sence).

I have also noticed the tire wear phenom. I feal as though the wheel responds appropriatelly, considering it's also much tougher to drive on blue's with the ds/2,... I think the tire wear deal is a fealing out issue. From what I've heard (havent had mine long enough to make an assumption), driving on red's is much easier with the wheel,... so, I hope thats correct :D

Lastly, I have experienced minor dificulty in keeping the car in a straight line at high speeds. I hear this is normal and we should get used to it. In fact, recently, I've nticed having an easier time doing it. I think to myself, control the wheel, dont let it control you ;)

Good luck racing 8)
brian
 
Well I set the steering assist to "simulation" and it made a huge differerance. I was trying to do the Pro Clio cup and before this changei it was almost undrivable for about half of the 10 laps. Now with this change and LSD on 10/10/10 it handled great, it displayed just a bit of the above discribed loosness but for less than one full lap of the 10, and I took 2 seconds off my previos best lap time on the first qualifying lap. So I guess I'll see how this effects other cars too.
 
Like I said, it just made the differance of the car being controlable for 90% of the time instead of 50% of the time. And I havnt tired it on other cars to judge the effect. I remember when I first got the wheel I didn't like the sim mode at all, and Ive seen posts here that indicate people prefered pro or am settings. I will try it in a car that was really stable in pro mode and let you know how it effects it and if I am faster or slower.
 
GilesGuthrie
I never used to, until I started OLR. I'm finding that a RUF RGT is responding in a very odd way to LSD settings. I've used a combination of rear toe and LSD Decel to dial out turn-in oversteer, but now I find that I'm getting big-time understeer in long corners.

So I reduced the LSD Accel setting, and this made the problem worse!!

Grrr!

you do realize some RUFs are RR rear engine rear wheel drive therefore rear heavy and a tendancy to act strange in cornering add weight to the front of your car to balance the off set issue of all the weight being in the rear of your car most ?MR cars will oversteer slightly in corners and the have a tendancy to turn around on themselves as in spin out anyway thats all i gotta say visit my thread please
 
I hate to ask this, but what exactly does changing the steering assist mode do to the game? For the longest time I never bothered with it then I decided one day to switch it to simulation mode. Since then I've kept it simply because it felt so much better all the way around.

I don't usually adjust LSDs. I just buy them and that usually helps my cornering out. Sometimes I'll adjust the initial torque if I'm having problems with spinning tires in straight lines or exiting corners. I turn to suspension for oversteer/understeer problems.

BTW, with that RUF, it's got a TON of weight in the rear, more so because of it's engined being mounted inthe rear, so with that I'd make an exception to these LDS guidelines. Honestly, the best thing to do from my experience is to actually dumb it down a bit by increasing downforce and whatever you can to slow down acceleration. Once you do that, you ought to be able to exit corners faster but your response may be a bit ugly. But that's all I can think to do since I don't know much about the LSD settings.
 
Update (I guess)

I was messing around with my RX-7 LM yesterday. I had never messed with the toe setting on it before and decided to do so since I was exiting corners rather stiffly. I first adjust it to 0.5 toe-out and it felt a little smoother out of the corner (this is with ASM set to 5 and TCS set to 3 by the way). I tried it at 1.0 toe-out next and it felt like it was perfect, as in it wouldn't get any better if I adjusted it further. Then I set it to 2.0 and it was smooth as silk for the most part--the only problem I had was at Midfield Reverse, that hairpin after the tunnel was hard to negotiate and I had some oversteer. I tested the car there and at Grand Valley.

The point here is that you may want to adjust your toe for stability in the rear wheels. LSDs aren't the only solution to your cornering problems.

Anyone else hate calling them LSDs? lol Sounds like I'm talking 'bout drugs. :P
 
Usually for circuit/track racing. RWD cars should have a 1.5 way LSD. FWD cars with 1 way LSD. AWD, we can't give the front 1way and rear 1
5 way, that is why there is a fully customize LSD. If you set 2way on a FWD for circuit you will feel a lot of understeer, same for AWD. 2 way is usually used for drifting, from my opinion.

AWD(depending which car)
my Impreza(GC8) for example
30/30
35/45
5/25
 

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