Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[Serum]

Hey guys, just dropping in to offer some perspective and feedback. As an owner and user of both the Logitech G Pro(former aftwr 2 years) and Fanatec DD Extreme with various rims...

The Logitech is by far your best value and the performance difference is minimal at best.

And...the Logitech G Pro Wheel rim is on par with Fanatec "Podium" rims in feel and quality - comparing against Podium R300, Maybe better.

Logitech is top tier for PS5,.without those G29 emulator gadgets.lol.

I agree and wish I went Logitech. I purchased the Fanatec with Asseto for pc in mind, but still no pc lol.

Speaking specifically about drifting on GT7 with both wheels, the ffb as it pertains to self steering is night and day. My Logitech (g27 w/ ps4) self steered like the steering wheel does in your favorite drifter’s in car footage. I mean it just whips, quickly and smoothly.

My fanatec dd+pro is LAZY. I can’t just let the wheel slide through my fingers, I have to help it. I’ve played with the settings and nothing has worked. I get by but I really regret my decision.

 

[EricTheActor]

The new updated momo pro 320 wheel is fantastic! Feels great in your hands. Thumb notches are nice and deep and the knots above really keep your thumbs planted down in. Very happy with it.

For all you flex freaks out there I can honestly say this updated wheel has zero flex. I mean 0.0 flex. It’s completely reinforced now with the design change. It’s now solid, yet it’s still very lightweight. Fun wheel.

 

[The_Antman_]

@LOGI_Rich - I am what I consider a newer driver - still learning and I'm old at 62 IMO

I have been having a trailbraking issue using the logitech G pro wheel and pedals-

My issue is trailbraking when it needs to be a longer drawn out braking pattern.

I was using the small yellowish white with orange bottom cushion first - then the red cushion - and last the brown. I love the feel of this combo and oressure required but no matter how hard I tried My trailbrake was shaped like and upside down U WITH no elongated trail (hope that makes sense)

Physically i feel as if I am braking in a way that should represent the braking pattern I am attempting to perform - but I am just unable to achieve it - The brake just drops off fast.

I played with the elastomers (cushions as I call them) and I can now trailbrake but I do not like the softness of the brake. I currently am using small white orange first - then yellow - last brown..... i basically swapped out the red for yellow if memory serves me correctly- but I tried about every combo I could think of.....

any thoughts on how to achieve a longer throw while achieving a variation in psi required throughout the range? the brake feels soft throughout from 0-100% brake and no change in feel..... so instead of feeling the pressure change - I need to now memorize leg and ankle position.

Ant

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Hi there.

This sounds like it's your first foray into load cell-based pedals? Either way, we should focus on your last statement about needing to memorise leg/ankle position... because this is most assuredly no longer the case.

Regardless of whether you set the pedal to be softer with more travel or harder with far less travel, the travel/feel has zero impact on the sensing. It's 100% pressure-based. It sounds like you're still relying on the deflection-based sensing that you've previously developed muscle memory for; this is the part that you need to train your brain away from. Focus less on trying to achieve a certain amount of deflection when you release to begin trail braking and instead focus on the amount of pressure you're releasing by. Once you get used to it, it's far easier to achieve the same level of pressure every time for most people (because it's easier to achieve muscle memory for pressure than it is deflection... at least for most people).

This is likely one of the reasons that so many people prefer load cell brakes to be stiffer, because they then only have to focus on pressure. There is of course usually some travel still there, but it's small enough that they're no longer focusing on it.

 

[The_Antman_]

hmmm Not 100% sure I was able to explain the issue. The only pedal / wheel combo I have used is the G Pro - I had zero driving experience until the PS5 Pro came out and I decided to get into Sim Racing .....

My issue is I am used to the feel of the much stiffer and shorter travel - But was unable to achieve the trail brake as the throw was so short the second I released to trail brake it just dropped out - for months I have been trying unsuccessfully.

I thought with the three elastamers I shouod feel the change in pressure required as each of the three elastamers were compressed throughout the braking travel - thats what I was referring too ..... it just feels like a soft sponge throughout the travel.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Oh, I understood the issue, but just focusing on some of the things you say because I think they're ultimately why you may be struggling 😊

There's a change in the force curve required to compress the elastomers, definitely, because it does ramp up as you press harder, but if you're looking for a very clear difference between each stage then they won't provide that. It is there, but it's not designed to be ultra distinct.

My advice still stands though, because your description still sounds like you're basing things on pedal travel, rather than pressure. One thing that might help, depending on how your pedals are mounted, is increasing the brake force setting. This will naturally widen the window of force needed to achieve 0-100% axis output. The same amount of relaxing of force in your foot will consequently result in a smaller change in the axis output.

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

@The_Antman_

Make sure your pedals are calibrated correctly in gt7 using the menu in the video.

 

[The_Antman_]

@Oshawa-Joe thank u Mr Joe appreciate the assistance ...... I am sure at some point I will build up the experience and feel to get the brake back to limited travel and firmness. But for now I need the travel and hate the soft feel of the brake.

Ant

 

[NicoGmbh]

Hi everyone,
I may not be attentive enough, but in your opinion, is it possible (with gt7) to vary the replay cameras with the steering wheel controls?
For my part, I have to take dualsense in hand, which is a shame when you’re in VR.

 

[CKU_87]

So after two years of regular use I still enjoy and love my G Pro wheelbase and pedals. Occasionally I come by and read the latest postings, but haven't posted here for a while and thought I might leave a quick thumbs up for this base and pedals and of course for @LOGI_Rich

I just ordered the new V2 inverted pedal rack for my P1X Pro...lets see how that goes. Its the first changes on my rig for a while now...

 

[preimumdude]

I don't know if they'll ever see this but I wanted to say thank to FlashSimG for the fantastic write-up regarding the 'three dots' issue. My experience has been nearly identical. I bought the Pro wheel base/pedals a few weeks after release and have been, for the most part, extremely satisfied with the experience.

I also used it for hundreds of hours over that time period and everything was perfect until about 6 months ago when I started getting the failure to initialize. Trying to isolate the issue and coming up with some order of operations that would make it function felt like trying to learn an intricate dance. Ultimately I discovered that if I turned it off when done with it and unplugged the power cord it would generally function correctly the next time I used it.

In searching for information about the issue I found discussion relating to potential issues with the cables. Mine were a little worse for wear after several years of use, so I ordered 2 sets of the official USB cables from Logitech. This was about a month ago. Once they were installed the unit worked like a charm. I could power it off, change wheels, and then it would power up again immediately without issue. I naively thought that I had solved the problem. That lasted for about 2 weeks and it started happening again. Very discouraging.

As I write this my friend is texting me asking me if I want to join him in a race, and I'm just staring at my wheel in frustration as it is misbehaving. I've seen the follow-up posts from Logi_Rich about possible ground loop issues, but man, I'm not an electrician. I'm just a nerd who wants to drive fake cars.

 

[racinglife85]

I bought the mvh studios wheel and it's simply amazing. wish logitech took care of your sim-racing ecosystem more

 

[Met Entso]

Hi everyone,
I may not be attentive enough, but in your opinion, is it possible (with gt7) to vary the replay cameras with the steering wheel controls?
For my part, I have to take dualsense in hand, which is a shame when you’re in VR.

Yes you can assign any button on the wheel to "change view" I think it is.

 

[WheelmanSteve]

Does anyone have a recommendation for G-Pro wheel settings for FH5 on PS5? I did not see anything on the recommended wheel settings published by Logitech. I tried the PC settings, and they were basically unusable. (I had a G29, and FH5 was decent, so that was worth a shot.)

 

[xaviersim]

Title: Logitech G PRO Wheel – almost no dynamic FFB in PRO mode after Windows reinstall, G923 mode works

Hi,

I’m trying to understand a strange FFB problem with my Logitech G PRO Racing Wheel on PC.

The wheel itself appears completely healthy and can still produce full torque, but since reinstalling Windows the FFB does not initialize correctly in PRO mode.

System / history

• Logitech G PRO Racing Wheel
• Previously working perfectly on Windows 11 24H2 build 26100.6899
• Clean Windows reinstall
• Now running Windows 11 Pro 25H2 build 26200.9168
• Wheel firmware had already been updated through G HUB before the Windows reinstall
• Same games and same in-game settings that worked correctly before
• G HUB correctly detects the wheel and synchronizes settings
• Wheel itself reports 11 Nm

What happens in PRO mode

The wheel is detected normally. Steering, buttons, pedals, etc. all work.

The wheel also has resistance — it can feel quite heavy/solid — so the motor is clearly active. However, the actual dynamic FFB is almost absent. The wheel does not feel “alive” at all.

In Dirt Rally 2.0, I can feel a little vibration/road or off-track effect, but very gently. The strong self-aligning torque, surface detail, impacts, weight transfer, etc. are basically missing.

F1 25 behaves similarly: there is some resistance/effect, but the real strong dynamic FFB that I had before reinstalling Windows is missing.

Interesting difference between Dirt Rally 2.0 and F1 25

In Dirt Rally 2.0, while the game is running in the bad/weak state, if I:

1. unplug the power connector from the wheelbase,
2. reconnect it,
3. turn the base back on with the red button,

the wheel immediately comes back to life and the FFB is excellent again — strong, detailed and exactly as I remember it.

So the base is clearly still capable of producing its normal torque.

However, F1 25 is different: restarting/power-cycling the wheel while F1 is already running does not restore the proper FFB in the same way. F1 seems not to recover/reacquire the wheel correctly after the restart.

G923 compatibility mode

I then switched the PRO Wheel from PRO compatibility mode to G923 mode.

The wheelbase automatically restarts when applying that change, so initially I wasn’t sure whether the improvement came from G923 mode itself or simply from the base restart.

However, in G923 mode:

• Dirt Rally 2.0 works properly
• FFB is strong and alive
• I can quit Dirt and launch F1 25 without restarting or unplugging the wheel
• F1 25 then also works properly, with strong normal FFB

So at present G923 compatibility mode appears to be a reliable workaround, whereas PRO mode is not.

Driver troubleshooting already performed

I completely reinstalled G HUB.

I also manually checked Logitech’s DirectInput FFB driver using:

di_ffb_manager.exe -s

All four components report Installed:

• HID++ 32-bit
• HID++ 64-bit
• Jerry 32-bit
• Jerry 64-bit

I then forced a reinstall using:

di_ffb_manager.exe -i -p .

The wheel briefly moved/reinitialized during this operation, but after rebooting the PRO-mode FFB problem remained unchanged.

Why I suspect software rather than hardware

The wheel can still produce full, powerful FFB once it is correctly initialized, particularly in G923 mode or after the Dirt Rally power-cycle workaround.

The problem appeared immediately after moving from the previously working Windows 11 24H2 installation to the fresh 25H2 installation.

G HUB also continues to communicate perfectly with the base and can change the Strength setting, including 11 Nm.

Has anyone seen this specifically on the G PRO Wheel with Windows 11 25H2 / build 26200.9168?

And if Logitech staff see this: could this be related to the recently acknowledged Windows/G HUB wheel issues, or is there a separate problem with the PRO Wheel’s native PRO-mode DirectInput initialization?

I’m happy to provide G HUB logs or run additional tests if useful.

 

[JGPavia]

First, a bit about my experience with GT7: I have around 1,900 hours of playtime using the Logitech Pro Racing Wheel. I always play with all assists turned off — ABS, traction control, etc. EVERYTHING OFF!

I'm really happy with the latest GT7 update. I really like the new physics, and especially the Force Feedback on the Logitech Pro Racing Wheel.

However, this is very important: I didn't like it the first time I played after the update. So I decided to approach it as if it were a completely new game. I reset all the wheel-related settings back to default and started configuring everything again from scratch.

I was REALLY surprised by the result. The game now feels incredibly impressive with our wheel.

Wheel settings:

FFB Filter: AUTOMATIC
(previously I used 6 or 8)

DAMPENER: 15
(previously I used 20)

TF AUDIO: 100

ANGLE: 1080

In-game setting:

Vibration Strength: 100
(previously I used 110 — lowering this made a huge difference to the Force Feedback)

Controller Settings:

Force Feedback Max. Torque: 6
(previously I used 5)

Force Feedback Sensitivity: 5
(previously I used 1 — THIS is where the magic happens!)

I'd really like someone else to try these settings and let me know what you think.

Make the adjustments on the wheel before launching the game, and save them to a new profile so you don't lose your current settings.

 

[SD70Racing]

@LOGI_Rich - I am what I consider a newer driver - still learning and I'm old at 62 IMO

I have been having a trailbraking issue using the logitech G pro wheel and pedals-

My issue is trailbraking when it needs to be a longer drawn out braking pattern.

I was using the small yellowish white with orange bottom cushion first - then the red cushion - and last the brown. I love the feel of this combo and oressure required but no matter how hard I tried My trailbrake was shaped like and upside down U WITH no elongated trail (hope that makes sense)

Physically i feel as if I am braking in a way that should represent the braking pattern I am attempting to perform - but I am just unable to achieve it - The brake just drops off fast.

I played with the elastomers (cushions as I call them) and I can now trailbrake but I do not like the softness of the brake. I currently am using small white orange first - then yellow - last brown..... i basically swapped out the red for yellow if memory serves me correctly- but I tried about every combo I could think of.....

any thoughts on how to achieve a longer throw while achieving a variation in psi required throughout the range? the brake feels soft throughout from 0-100% brake and no change in feel..... so instead of feeling the pressure change - I need to now memorize leg and ankle position.

Ant

I know this is an older post, but what LOGI_Rich said about building muscle memory for pressure rather than pedal travel is exactly what I’ve been experimenting with.
I built a free browser-based tool called BrakeMaster where you can practice hitting specific brake pressures and, more importantly in your case, controlling the release against different target curves. The idea is to train that pressure control separately from driving until it becomes more natural.
Since you’re on PS5, you’d need to connect the pedals to a PC/laptop to use it, but if you have that option it might be worth a try: https://brakemaster.live

 

[Marky264]

First, a bit about my experience with GT7: I have around 1,900 hours of playtime using the Logitech Pro Racing Wheel. I always play with all assists turned off — ABS, traction control, etc. EVERYTHING OFF!

I'm really happy with the latest GT7 update. I really like the new physics, and especially the Force Feedback on the Logitech Pro Racing Wheel.

However, this is very important: I didn't like it the first time I played after the update. So I decided to approach it as if it were a completely new game. I reset all the wheel-related settings back to default and started configuring everything again from scratch.

I was REALLY surprised by the result. The game now feels incredibly impressive with our wheel.

Wheel settings:

FFB Filter: AUTOMATIC
(previously I used 6 or 8)

DAMPENER: 15
(previously I used 20)

TF AUDIO: 100

ANGLE: 1080

In-game setting:

Vibration Strength: 100
(previously I used 110 — lowering this made a huge difference to the Force Feedback)

Controller Settings:

Force Feedback Max. Torque: 6
(previously I used 5)

Force Feedback Sensitivity: 5
(previously I used 1 — THIS is where the magic happens!)

I'd really like someone else to try these settings and let me know what you think.

Make the adjustments on the wheel before launching the game, and save them to a new profile so you don't lose your current settings.

I am pleased to say, that after spending the entire afternoon tinkering these settings for the Logi G Pro, these settings work very well post Update.



Previously like yourself, I had run the new update for about half an hour driving the same GR.3 Cars. Turning it off in frustration that my wheelbase felt unconnected and nothing was being felt in the low speeds anymore. I genuinely felt like selling my entire setup in frustration and looking at the Fanatec DD+ or New Moza GT Wheel coming out soon.

After tinkering today I settled on the exact settings above bar Force Feedback Sensitivity being set to 7 for me as the Increase gave me more subtle vibrations and more connection to TrueForce in the Low Speed corners and on corner exit/coming off rumble strips/kerbs. I can now happily feel TrueForce more substantially than previously.

It doesn't feel like it was before Update 1.49. That was GOAT Tier GT7 previously with this Wheel. However for those that have been around since the GT7 this is the best the wheel will feel post update in GT7. I have run the G Pro since the start and put in well over 500+ Hours in on this wheel.

I have finally got my times back to where they were before the new update so I'm now happy.

Roll on September 23rd. I have high hopes that we will actually get some nice decent Wheel Rim attachments and not just Add On's for the Logi RS Wheel Hub. Logitech need to step it up now as Moza have revealed some pretty incredible Hardware as of late.

As a consumer, I now want some of the flashy gorgeous Wheel Rim's that feel premium and high quality. I would pay the money for an actual McLaren F1 Rim & any other Car Manufactuer wheel for that matter. Just give us something please! @LOGI_Rich

 

[Childe Roland]

First, a bit about my experience with GT7: I have around 1,900 hours of playtime using the Logitech Pro Racing Wheel. I always play with all assists turned off — ABS, traction control, etc. EVERYTHING OFF!

I'm really happy with the latest GT7 update. I really like the new physics, and especially the Force Feedback on the Logitech Pro Racing Wheel.

However, this is very important: I didn't like it the first time I played after the update. So I decided to approach it as if it were a completely new game. I reset all the wheel-related settings back to default and started configuring everything again from scratch.

I was REALLY surprised by the result. The game now feels incredibly impressive with our wheel.

Wheel settings:

FFB Filter: AUTOMATIC
(previously I used 6 or 8)

DAMPENER: 15
(previously I used 20)

TF AUDIO: 100

ANGLE: 1080

In-game setting:

Vibration Strength: 100
(previously I used 110 — lowering this made a huge difference to the Force Feedback)

Controller Settings:

Force Feedback Max. Torque: 6
(previously I used 5)

Force Feedback Sensitivity: 5
(previously I used 1 — THIS is where the magic happens!)

I'd really like someone else to try these settings and let me know what you think.

Make the adjustments on the wheel before launching the game, and save them to a new profile so you don't lose your current settings.

What strenght are you setting on the base? 11 nm?

 

[JGPavia]

What strenght are you setting on the base? 11 nm?

Yes, 11nm.

 

[Childe Roland]

First, a bit about my experience with GT7: I have around 1,900 hours of playtime using the Logitech Pro Racing Wheel. I always play with all assists turned off — ABS, traction control, etc. EVERYTHING OFF!

I'm really happy with the latest GT7 update. I really like the new physics, and especially the Force Feedback on the Logitech Pro Racing Wheel.

However, this is very important: I didn't like it the first time I played after the update. So I decided to approach it as if it were a completely new game. I reset all the wheel-related settings back to default and started configuring everything again from scratch.

I was REALLY surprised by the result. The game now feels incredibly impressive with our wheel.

Wheel settings:

FFB Filter: AUTOMATIC
(previously I used 6 or 8)

DAMPENER: 15
(previously I used 20)

TF AUDIO: 100

ANGLE: 1080

In-game setting:

Vibration Strength: 100
(previously I used 110 — lowering this made a huge difference to the Force Feedback)

Controller Settings:

Force Feedback Max. Torque: 6
(previously I used 5)

Force Feedback Sensitivity: 5
(previously I used 1 — THIS is where the magic happens!)

I'd really like someone else to try these settings and let me know what you think.

Make the adjustments on the wheel before launching the game, and save them to a new profile so you don't lose your current settings.

I tried this and for road cars it feels really nice.
Some subtle details that we missed from previous updates appeared again (hello there Tokyo tarmac joints, long time no see!)

However, for racing cars it didn´t work for me.
Now after the last update, when you get understeer you need to crank the wheel with more steering angle to correct it (something Im hating with all my being) and with this suggested settings, in that situation the base starts to rattle in a very similar way my old G29 did and I couldn´t stand it.

 

[Carlos Fandango]

I tried it and found that I actually it helped on the SLS AMG time trial, but the "chatter" for want of a better word even in a straight line (around Willow Springs at least) is distracting. It is though a much better solution than my existing settings with the new software. Will iterate from there to try and get to a point that a) dials out the chatter, and; b) doesn't dial out the rest of the feedback and speed.
Thank you for doing the leg work and posting the results @JGPavia

 

[Tm667]

First, a bit about my experience with GT7: I have around 1,900 hours of playtime using the Logitech Pro Racing Wheel. I always play with all assists turned off — ABS, traction control, etc. EVERYTHING OFF!

I'm really happy with the latest GT7 update. I really like the new physics, and especially the Force Feedback on the Logitech Pro Racing Wheel.

However, this is very important: I didn't like it the first time I played after the update. So I decided to approach it as if it were a completely new game. I reset all the wheel-related settings back to default and started configuring everything again from scratch.

I was REALLY surprised by the result. The game now feels incredibly impressive with our wheel.

Wheel settings:

FFB Filter: AUTOMATIC
(previously I used 6 or 8)

DAMPENER: 15
(previously I used 20)

TF AUDIO: 100

ANGLE: 1080

In-game setting:

Vibration Strength: 100
(previously I used 110 — lowering this made a huge difference to the Force Feedback)

Controller Settings:

Force Feedback Max. Torque: 6
(previously I used 5)

Force Feedback Sensitivity: 5
(previously I used 1 — THIS is where the magic happens!)

I'd really like someone else to try these settings and let me know what you think.

Make the adjustments on the wheel before launching the game, and save them to a new profile so you don't lose your current settings.

Impressive it is, pal!

I was kinda skeptical, but the difference with your settings is night and day.

I have over 1300 hours on the G Pro, and the ffb has never been so clear and present.

I guess using 150 before as vibration strength was clipping the signal like crazy, I had no idea.

Trueforce is now slightly subtler but way more detailed.

Thanks a lot!

 

[JGPavia]

Title: Logitech G PRO Wheel – almost no dynamic FFB in PRO mode after Windows reinstall, G923 mode works

Hi,

I’m trying to understand a strange FFB problem with my Logitech G PRO Racing Wheel on PC.

The wheel itself appears completely healthy and can still produce full torque, but since reinstalling Windows the FFB does not initialize correctly in PRO mode.

System / history

• Logitech G PRO Racing Wheel
• Previously working perfectly on Windows 11 24H2 build 26100.6899
• Clean Windows reinstall
• Now running Windows 11 Pro 25H2 build 26200.9168
• Wheel firmware had already been updated through G HUB before the Windows reinstall
• Same games and same in-game settings that worked correctly before
• G HUB correctly detects the wheel and synchronizes settings
• Wheel itself reports 11 Nm

What happens in PRO mode

The wheel is detected normally. Steering, buttons, pedals, etc. all work.

The wheel also has resistance — it can feel quite heavy/solid — so the motor is clearly active. However, the actual dynamic FFB is almost absent. The wheel does not feel “alive” at all.

In Dirt Rally 2.0, I can feel a little vibration/road or off-track effect, but very gently. The strong self-aligning torque, surface detail, impacts, weight transfer, etc. are basically missing.

F1 25 behaves similarly: there is some resistance/effect, but the real strong dynamic FFB that I had before reinstalling Windows is missing.

Interesting difference between Dirt Rally 2.0 and F1 25

In Dirt Rally 2.0, while the game is running in the bad/weak state, if I:

1. unplug the power connector from the wheelbase,
2. reconnect it,
3. turn the base back on with the red button,

the wheel immediately comes back to life and the FFB is excellent again — strong, detailed and exactly as I remember it.

So the base is clearly still capable of producing its normal torque.

However, F1 25 is different: restarting/power-cycling the wheel while F1 is already running does not restore the proper FFB in the same way. F1 seems not to recover/reacquire the wheel correctly after the restart.

G923 compatibility mode

I then switched the PRO Wheel from PRO compatibility mode to G923 mode.

The wheelbase automatically restarts when applying that change, so initially I wasn’t sure whether the improvement came from G923 mode itself or simply from the base restart.

However, in G923 mode:

• Dirt Rally 2.0 works properly
• FFB is strong and alive
• I can quit Dirt and launch F1 25 without restarting or unplugging the wheel
• F1 25 then also works properly, with strong normal FFB

So at present G923 compatibility mode appears to be a reliable workaround, whereas PRO mode is not.

Driver troubleshooting already performed

I completely reinstalled G HUB.

I also manually checked Logitech’s DirectInput FFB driver using:

di_ffb_manager.exe -s

All four components report Installed:

• HID++ 32-bit
• HID++ 64-bit
• Jerry 32-bit
• Jerry 64-bit

I then forced a reinstall using:

di_ffb_manager.exe -i -p .

The wheel briefly moved/reinitialized during this operation, but after rebooting the PRO-mode FFB problem remained unchanged.

Why I suspect software rather than hardware

The wheel can still produce full, powerful FFB once it is correctly initialized, particularly in G923 mode or after the Dirt Rally power-cycle workaround.

The problem appeared immediately after moving from the previously working Windows 11 24H2 installation to the fresh 25H2 installation.

G HUB also continues to communicate perfectly with the base and can change the Strength setting, including 11 Nm.

Has anyone seen this specifically on the G PRO Wheel with Windows 11 25H2 / build 26200.9168?

And if Logitech staff see this: could this be related to the recently acknowledged Windows/G HUB wheel issues, or is there a separate problem with the PRO Wheel’s native PRO-mode DirectInput initialization?

I’m happy to provide G HUB logs or run additional tests if useful.

Hey @LOGI_Rich , could you test these settings? A few other people here have tried them and they’re really liking them. I’d really love to hear your thoughts.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@Tm667 there was definitely no clipping as a result of setting the vibration that high, as clipping would have resulted in zero vibration from happening. Before Polyphony reduced the output of the vibration a couple of years ago, we did used to recommend a much lower in-game setting, but so many people had an issue with it after the change that we just left the recommendation at 150 :-)

100 will definitely make it more subtle, of course, which people will note is often my recommendation for Trueforce.


@JGPavia subtly different for me, but as usual these things are all subjective; everyone knows that I've always preferred FFB Sensitivity at 1. I know why people do like it higher, but it just results in too much oscillation in any of the group cars for me. If it works for you, then go for it 🏎️

 

[dude0702]

Impressive it is, pal!

I was kinda skeptical, but the difference with your settings is night and day.

I have over 1300 hours on the G Pro, and the ffb has never been so clear and present.

I guess using 150 before as vibration strength was clipping the signal like crazy, I had no idea.

Trueforce is now slightly subtler but way more detailed.

Thanks a lot!

Tried this too now. Doesn't feel bad, but can't say I'm feeling a massive different from before. That said, my config was already fairly close to what Tm667 suggested.

That said, I can't run TF audio nearly as high as that. It makes the wheelbase vibrate even on a straight line. I assume it's emulating engine vibration. But... it just feels too strong and odd 🤷