http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgAsuE0KZpY
Hi there I just finished my T500 Rotating Paddle Shifters MOD!
It's a simple DIY project.
It modifies original wheel parts (making 4 new holes + little widening of 4 existing holes)
For those interestd Im providing 3 metal plates, cable + bunch of screws and spacers needed.
Insidesimracing.tv -watch at 7:33 how the cable works! Solution there.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jh9Dq0N89YM&feature=player_embedded
For those interested Im providing third party wheel adapters for the T500 (PM me if you need one) or ask questions here.
r.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
You are voiding yor warranty with this mod.
As this is DIY project Im not taking any responsibility for the end result.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Drilling and disassembly instructions on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUr7gE-TlGk&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haJXgxXZPzo&feature=related
PIC. 1, 2
Im suplying special M4 self prevailing torque nuts -hard to mount (you will need some equipment to tighten) but these hold in place like hell! DONT overtighten here -its plastic part we mount it on.
PIC. 3
Smaller plastic part back on its place (watch for wires!) and click!. Do not forget about those six tiny black screws.
PIC. 4, 5
First adapter plate, and spacers -fastened with fingers then just a bit more -VERY CAREFULL HERE!
PIC. 6
Second adapter plate -this one fastened tight!
PIC. 7
Fasten black top screws like this.
PIC. 8
Mount the cover plate (at this point all cabels are connected) using previously removed TM screws. At first I wanted the cabel come through one of these holes -but its better to take it from under the rubber)
Now we can put shifting module on the TM Wheel body
PIC. 9, 10
I made this small screw in the middle just 1mm shorter and drilled very shalow (also 1 mm) hole in plastic so is dosnt stick out that much. Now I can allign shifting module on the T500 body
PIC. 11
Tightly screw the last three connection spacers. (I do it with a key, but I keep it just at the inner end so I control the tension and not overtigten)
Time to mount the wheel -connect cabel pin (thak you TM for making these wires that long! ), fasten the steering wheel (doing several rounds with all three screws removed during disassembly.
PIC. 12, 13
I recommend connecting new cable to the shifer module first. The cable housing I provide is not symetrical. Take a closer look at first (12) pic -connections are made inside the shifting module. You can tape wires to prevent from moving. The cable WITH the black housing gets through to the other side -This is important.
Take a look at second picture (13) here. Cable WITH the black housing comes from that hole.
When disconnecting original wires from the shifter module pull gently to get pin connectors out of the wheel body. Secure wires with a tape to the wheel body (if these get lost inside its tricky to get them back out )
Now you can disconnect pins (difficult) or just cut wires
The new cable gets from under the rubber to inside the wheel body. (dont take the rubber off -just pull it in one point from the bottom) This is the longer (gray) end of the cable. When the new cable is inside solder wires isolate etc.. You can tape or glue the new cable to some the plasctic part inside wheel body. Its quite a lot of space in there.
Now you can mount cover plate.
Its important to adjust the lenght of the new cable to your preference. You can try to straighten the cable before mounting moving paddles module. Put some weight on it so it wont get into the moving paddles.
See my vid shown on insidesimracing.tv (at the end)
http://www.insidesimracing.tv/videos/view/503/0/Inside-Sim-Racing-Episodes
Lower rotation angle, and force when trying for the first time. Than slowly increase force an rotation angle. You will get an Idea what adjustments are needed. Step by step you ll get the right result.
Last word. I think its possible to get rid of the shifter cable completly. Using pin connector cable from the wheel electronics. But this is more invasive(?) way again. You loose your buttons on the original wheel. I will do it with my wheel soon as I use third party steering wheel anyway.
I will be happy to answer any questions here if needed.
Hi there I just finished my T500 Rotating Paddle Shifters MOD!
It's a simple DIY project.
It modifies original wheel parts (making 4 new holes + little widening of 4 existing holes)
For those interestd Im providing 3 metal plates, cable + bunch of screws and spacers needed.
Insidesimracing.tv -watch at 7:33 how the cable works! Solution there.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jh9Dq0N89YM&feature=player_embedded
For those interested Im providing third party wheel adapters for the T500 (PM me if you need one) or ask questions here.
r.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
You are voiding yor warranty with this mod.
As this is DIY project Im not taking any responsibility for the end result.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Drilling and disassembly instructions on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUr7gE-TlGk&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haJXgxXZPzo&feature=related
PIC. 1, 2
Im suplying special M4 self prevailing torque nuts -hard to mount (you will need some equipment to tighten) but these hold in place like hell! DONT overtighten here -its plastic part we mount it on.
PIC. 3
Smaller plastic part back on its place (watch for wires!) and click!. Do not forget about those six tiny black screws.
PIC. 4, 5
First adapter plate, and spacers -fastened with fingers then just a bit more -VERY CAREFULL HERE!
PIC. 6
Second adapter plate -this one fastened tight!
PIC. 7
Fasten black top screws like this.
PIC. 8
Mount the cover plate (at this point all cabels are connected) using previously removed TM screws. At first I wanted the cabel come through one of these holes -but its better to take it from under the rubber)
Now we can put shifting module on the TM Wheel body
PIC. 9, 10
I made this small screw in the middle just 1mm shorter and drilled very shalow (also 1 mm) hole in plastic so is dosnt stick out that much. Now I can allign shifting module on the T500 body
PIC. 11
Tightly screw the last three connection spacers. (I do it with a key, but I keep it just at the inner end so I control the tension and not overtigten)
Time to mount the wheel -connect cabel pin (thak you TM for making these wires that long! ), fasten the steering wheel (doing several rounds with all three screws removed during disassembly.
PIC. 12, 13
I recommend connecting new cable to the shifer module first. The cable housing I provide is not symetrical. Take a closer look at first (12) pic -connections are made inside the shifting module. You can tape wires to prevent from moving. The cable WITH the black housing gets through to the other side -This is important.
Take a look at second picture (13) here. Cable WITH the black housing comes from that hole.
When disconnecting original wires from the shifter module pull gently to get pin connectors out of the wheel body. Secure wires with a tape to the wheel body (if these get lost inside its tricky to get them back out )
Now you can disconnect pins (difficult) or just cut wires
The new cable gets from under the rubber to inside the wheel body. (dont take the rubber off -just pull it in one point from the bottom) This is the longer (gray) end of the cable. When the new cable is inside solder wires isolate etc.. You can tape or glue the new cable to some the plasctic part inside wheel body. Its quite a lot of space in there.
Now you can mount cover plate.
Its important to adjust the lenght of the new cable to your preference. You can try to straighten the cable before mounting moving paddles module. Put some weight on it so it wont get into the moving paddles.
See my vid shown on insidesimracing.tv (at the end)
http://www.insidesimracing.tv/videos/view/503/0/Inside-Sim-Racing-Episodes
Lower rotation angle, and force when trying for the first time. Than slowly increase force an rotation angle. You will get an Idea what adjustments are needed. Step by step you ll get the right result.
Last word. I think its possible to get rid of the shifter cable completly. Using pin connector cable from the wheel electronics. But this is more invasive(?) way again. You loose your buttons on the original wheel. I will do it with my wheel soon as I use third party steering wheel anyway.
I will be happy to answer any questions here if needed.
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