F1 Championship Transmission Settings

The following settings are for the F1 car for the F1 Championship. To use them properly, first do:

1. Go to your F1's setting menu.
2. Go to transmission.
3. Slide "Final" all the way to the right (5.500).
4. Slide Autoset to the left.
5. Then slide "Final" to the number corresponding with the track you are going to race on.
6. Do the race.

Here are the actual settings:

Tokyo Route 246 - 3.216
Twin Ring Motegi-Super Speedway - 3.216
New York - 3.216
High Speed Ring - 3.216
Grand Valley Speedway - 3.216
Circuit de la Sarthe I - 3.216
Cote d' Azur - 3.750
Seoul Central - 3.216
Infineon Raceway-Sports Car Course - 3.700
Laguna Seca Raceway - 3.700
Twin Ring Motegi-Road Course - 3.500
Nurburgring - 3.216
El Captain - 3.400
Fuji Speedway 2005 - 3.216
Suzuka Circuit - 3.500

These settings combined with good pitting timing and B-spec should make this event a breeze.
Personally, I haven't tried them out against competition, but it should accelerate a lot faster than the other F1 cars.

I would also like some feedback on whether you like them or not.

Duck7892

Duck7892

The following settings are for the F1 car for the F1 Championship. To use them properly, first do:

1. Go to your F1's setting menu.
2. Go to transmission.
3. Slide "Final" all the way to the right (5.500).
4. Slide Autoset to the left.
5. Then slide "Final" to the number corresponding with the track you are going to race on.
6. Do the race.

Here are the actual settings:

Tokyo Route 246 - 3.216
Twin Ring Motegi-Super Speedway - 3.216
New York - 3.216
High Speed Ring - 3.216
Grand Valley Speedway - 3.216
Circuit de la Sarthe I - 3.216
Cote d' Azur - 3.750
Seoul Central - 3.216
Infineon Raceway-Sports Car Course - 3.700
Laguna Seca Raceway - 3.700
Twin Ring Motegi-Road Course - 3.500
Nurburgring - 3.216
El Captain - 3.400
Fuji Speedway 2005 - 3.216
Suzuka Circuit - 3.500

These settings combined with good pitting timing and B-spec should make this event a breeze.
Personally, I haven't tried them out against competition, but it should accelerate a lot faster than the other F1 cars.

Duck7892

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Now, that is very cool. Thanks several tons for that great bit of info. I've copied and pasted it to a text file.


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Zardoz

Now, that is very cool. Thanks several tons for that great bit of info. I've copied and pasted it to a text file.

Click to expand...

No problem. All it took was about an hour of messing around with the tranny trick. They're configured to redline at the end of the longest straight, give or take a couple seconds.

Hope it'll benefit you
Duck7892

I haven't played GT4 yet, but I wouldn't exactly say using auto ratios was great in past GT games ... Not that they were bad, but I always found I could do better manually setting my gears to keep my car in its powerband rather than hoping/praying auto didn't drop me below it on a gear shift or not use the whole powerband ...

Calculator + Brain > Auto

Jmac279

I haven't played GT4 yet, but I wouldn't exactly say using auto ratios was great in past GT games ... Not that they were bad, but I always found I could do better manually setting my gears to keep my car in its powerband rather than hoping/praying auto didn't drop me below it on a gear shift or not use the whole powerband...

Click to expand...

That's fine, if you want to take the time it requires to do it. Most of us don't, and the Tranny Trick gets it so right on virtually all cars that I could never justify agonizing over each gear. There are so many better things to do in GT4 than that.

-

I always use auto cause I'm not that bright when it comes to gear ratios, if someone could give us a guide on how to do it well manually that would be great, cheers. 👍

Zardoz

That's fine, if you want to take the time it requires to do it. Most of us don't, and the Tranny Trick gets it so right on virtually all cars that I could never justify agonizing over each gear. There are so many better things to do in GT4 than that.

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I wouldn't say it's even close to "right on" for any car that doesn't have a flat torque curve or power curve ... Mind you, for the F1 it's most likely fine (probably not optimal but close enough) since I assume it has a very flat torque curve and, therefore, hits peak power near the rev-limiter ...

nd 4 holden spd

I always use auto cause I'm not that bright when it comes to gear ratios, if someone could give us a guide on how to do it well manually that would be great, cheers. 👍

Click to expand...

Basically, you want to keep power as high as possible ... However, the restrictions on how high/low you can set your gears and the amount of gears available may force you to use a wider powerband, so you have to make a compromise ... The highest gears are the most important to stay within the powerband, so if you have to compromise, make the lower gears wider ... With car's with a flat torque curve (where it peaks right at or just before the rev-limiter ... Pretty much every Honda engine is like this), every gear should be progressively shorter (i.e. 1st = 0-9000 RPM, 2nd = 5880-9000 RPM, 3rd = 6550-9000 RPM, 4th = 7275-9000 RPM, 5th = 8100-9000 RPM) ...

If you don't have a flat torque curve, you'll want a much different strategy ... Take, for example, the Hyundai Tiburon ...


As you can see, this car's powerband is between 4850 and 6050 RPM ... So, ideally, you'd want to shift at 6050 RPM and end up at 4850 RPM in the next gear ... Now, this is a rather narrow band (1200 RPM), so you might only be able to use this for the top 1 or 2 gears because of the restrictions on how high you can set your gears ... So you might set the gears up like this ... 1st = 0-6800, 2nd = 4300-6600, 3rd = 4500-6400, 4th = 4700-6200, 5th = 4850-6050, 6th = 4850-Rev Limit ...

Let's say 5th gear has a 1.000 ratio ... First you set your 6th gear ratio then set your 4th, 3rd, 2nd, and 1st ...
For a higher gear, you take your previous ratio (1.000), multiply by the desired RPM (4850), and divide by the shift RPM (6050) ... 1*4850/6050 = 0.802 ...
For a lower gear, you take your ratio (1.000), multiply by the shift RPM (6200), and divide by the desired RPM (4850) ...

1st = 2.553*6800/4300 = 4.037
2nd = 1.741*6600/4500 = 2.553
3rd = 1.278*6400/4700 = 1.741
4th = 1*6200/4850 = 1.278
5th = 1.000
6th = 1*4850/6050 = 0.802

Now, obviously, if you can make the lower gears closer together, that would be great ...

You basically use the final drive ratio to control the top speed of the vehicle ... As Zardoz said, you should be very near topping out at the end of the longest straight on each track ...

As mentioned above by Zardoz, this can be time consuming, especially after you factor in final drive ratios for each track and fine tuning of gear ratios for each track to ensure that accelerating through corners isn't awkward ... But, if you're a perfectionist (crazy person) like me, you'll probably want to set your gear ratios yourself ...

Thanks- so your saying that to get the most power possible out of each gear you should try to keep it in the powerband? And the stock ratios may not necessarily be good for this? (excuse my stupidity). Then to get as much acceleration as possible you simlpy make the final drive ratio shorter until it's perfect for the track?
(Excuse my stupidity again)- How do you figure out the powerband again- I saw this once and went looking for it but couldn't find it.

The stock ratios are usually alright, not perfect, but alright ... You have to understand that most companies don't tune their gearboxes for performance, even in their performance vehicles ... You'll often see very tall top gears for several reasons, not one of which is performance (comfort, long-term reliability, fuel economy, etc. at highway speeds), so often times the stock gearboxes on road cars leave a lot of room for improvement ...

Here are the general rules for acceleration in a vehicle ...

1) A car will ALWAYS have the greatest acceleration in a given gear at peak torque ...
2) A car will ALWAYS have the greatest acceleration at a given speed at peak power ...
3) If two cars have the same mass, gearing, aerodynamics, etc., the one with the greatest average power over the RPM ranges that the gearing dictates will have the greatest average acceleration ...

Now the reason why 1) isn't the most important is because it's in a given gear ... Since we don't drive around in 1-speed cars, peak torque isn't ideal place to be ... However, this isn't to say that a high peak torque isn't important ...

Allow me to demonstrate ... In this demonstration, we will have two cars that both redline at 7000 RPM, both have the same wheels, both have the same gearing, and both have the same aerodynamic properties ...

Here we have a theoretical car (we'll call it an S2000) that has a completely flat power curve ... It makes 250 hp @ 7000 RPM and makes 187.6 lb-ft of torque from 0-7000 RPM ...


Next we have another car (we'll call it an Evo 8 since I took it from an Evo 8 dyno graph) that has a much wider power band, as you can see ... it makes 236 hp @ 6750 RPM and 240 lb-ft @ 4250 RPM ...


Here we have the gearing and aerodynamic properties of the vehicles (same for both) ...


Both cars are set up to hit 175 MPH @ 7000 RPM in 6th gear and both have gears set to shift at 7000 RPM and end up at 4900 RPM in the next gear ...

So let's see the results of the Force vs. Speed graph ... Remember, Acceleration = Force/Mass and, since Mass is the same for both vehicles, the difference in acceleration will be directly proportional to the difference in force ...


As you can see, the S2000, despite having a 14 hp advantage, gets absolutely decimated ... Why ? Rule number 3) ... If two cars have the same mass, gearing, aerodynamics, etc., the one with the greatest average power over the RPM ranges that the gearing dictates will have the greatest average acceleration ...

Average Force (20-175 MPH)
Evo 8 - 1526 lbs
S2000 - 1427 lbs

Average Power (4900-7000 RPM)
Evo 8 - 224.9 hp
S2000 - 214.3 hp

Unfortunately, you'll never make this completely even over the entire speed range ... However, what you can do is make it a little more even on the track by concentrating the available power at the speeds you'll most commonly be in ... Say you're on a fairly wide open track with only several lower speed corners and your threshold speed through all of these corners is 80 MPH ... At the end of the longest straight, you should be just barely approaching 170 MPH, so you don't need to tweak the top gear or final drive ...

Average Force (80-170 MPH) with equal gearing
Evo 8 - 428 lbs
S2000 - 407 lbs

Average Power (80-170 MPH) with equal gearing
Evo 8 - 225.9 hp
S2000 - 218.1 hp

In this scenario, you decide to run 2nd up to 85 MPH and leave the remaining 4 gears to concentrate on the straights and high-speed corners ...

Meanwhile, the Evo's gearing has already been fully optimized so it needs no changes ... It will take the corners at exactly the same speeds as the S2000 ...

Let's see how much of a difference we made ...


There we go, now it's actually competitive from about 80-170 MPH and, since we don't plan on being below 80 MPH except at the start, we actually stand a chance at winning ...

Now let's compare average force from 80 MPH to 170 MPH ...
Evo 8 - 428.0 lbs
S2000 - 443.4 lbs

And average power from 80 MPH to 170 MPH ...
Evo 8 - 225.9 hp
S2000 - 229.8 hp

Awesome, so not only did tweaking the gears make it competitive, it actually gave us a slight advantage because we raised the average power above the Evo's at the speeds we'll both be using in the race ...