Minolta 88C-V Tune
- Thread starter rk
- 64 comments
- 40,855 views
- 1
Thanks JW31 the minolta setup was excellent, I am on my way to winning the professional world championship with this setup
- 46
This is gonna sound ignorant, but why is everyone setting rear toe to 0? Won't turning the rear toe down to say, -4 help with the high speed stability much like it does with the F1's? Just my thought....
- 466
-4 rear toe is likely not for high speed stability, just try the car at 0 toe and you will see. The -4 would be to accomplish something else, like intentional understeer or something. I reversed rear toe to +4 to assist on-throttle steering and it seemed to work, did 1:14 at Tokyo and that was before I learned about rake induced downforce.OCD Collector
Too much toe in can make your car "crown sensetive" and can interfere with steering dynamics, among other things.
Good settings fulcrumdriver. I also won the GT World Championship using your settings as a base. I chaned the gear to 15 and left it at that until the last one where i put it at 18.
- 563
Perhaps, but the F1 also chews up tires like it's going out of style... Though I do find that a setting of -1 to the rear helps a bit, while not eating the tires to bad.OCD Collector
- 563
In extreams, yes these toe settings can change the way your car handles and wears it's tires... but the same could be said for any setting. Rarely do any of the settings require you to set them to the max. There was a very good guide on this (toe settings) in... the FAQs I think. But it was geared for GT3 I think. At any rate, I've found that the one only truth to setting is that the only perfect tune is one done by the person to suit their needs (although your initial settings for this car are pretty damn good). That being said, I added +1 toe in the front and a -1 to the rear. I found that this helped ME in turning this beast, the way I drive. I also brought up the breaks to 12 front and 14 rear... again, to suit my needs. Other then that, I've kept everything pretty much as you have it. I also found that although the TCS "slows" your car down. It's imperative to keeping your rears from burning up at an incredible rate. I've got mine set at 8 for this very reason... it's kind of like the tortus and the hair. The bottom line being that even if you're running around at 5 to 8 secounds less a lap the your opponents, those extra pits are gonna catch you sooner or later. I've found that these few changes let "Bob" run RSHs and he gets a good 15 to 18 laps at a 3 (many more at 2) pace before he has to pit.rk
P.S. I use bottons for gas/break... maybe that's why I've gotten better results with these... Though so has "Bob"... Please keep me posted...
- 502
With any stage of turbo and hards on the rear Bob will do fine. At first it will look sketchy but in the long run he will win. It takes Bob a while to get up front. Once he clears the pack and has wide open track he just takes off. I personally ran both circuits with a stock Sauber and won by 15+ seconds over the Minolta in 2nd at LeSarthe I and at LeSarthe II Bob lapped the R92 in 2nd.EXODUS
- 2,208
We keep seeing posts from peeps who report that very fast cars like the Minolta Toyota are struggling in the Sarthe enduros in B-Spec mode. It seems to be more than a matter of the B-Spec drivers' points. Something else seems to be going on.
Its puzzling that some of us watch our Bobs use the same car and win by 10 laps, while others can't win at all. I wonder what's up?
Its puzzling that some of us watch our Bobs use the same car and win by 10 laps, while others can't win at all. I wonder what's up?
- 27
- Erfurt, Germany
JW31
Year man, yesterday my b-spec driver finished the 24 houre le satre I.
I'm unsing your settings with a little modifications and "BOB" win the race unattend !
Thankx for this settings, my details comes soon, i'm a little bit busy.
- 466
I take it then you didn't encounter any nasty high speed vibration using maximum downforce and relatively (14+) stiff springs. The true problem with the Minolta that people encounter at tracks like Sarthe, is the amount of travel in the rear suspension devoted to extension or what is usually referred to as re-bound. See, it is a common misconception that vehicles sit at the top of their springs/suspensions, patiently waiting for a bump to come along and soak up all this travel. Any motorcycle rider who has adjusted his pre-load collar can tell you that this is not so, and can probably also attest to the fact that a maxxed collar doesn't make the bike too terribly much more "race ready". Thats because, a long time ago, when Aristotle and Euclid (j/k) were designing modern hydraulic suspensions, they found there was some benefit to be had by leaving some reserve suspension travel to allow the wheel(s) to go downward as if into a pothole. In fact, this amount of travel was found to be so important and (on a motorcycle) so affected by load or passenger weight, that provision was made to allow the operator to easily adjust it, hence, if you reduce pre-load or un-compress your springs, your spring rate remains unchanged but the ride height is lower. That travel is not gone however, it has been "moved" to the extension side of the suspension. The "lowering clips" sold at aftermarket auto parts stores do almost the same thing, except spring travel is lost or permanently bound which is why springs so equipped can bounce out of their seats.Crid
When you raise the rear of the Minolta, it is similar to relaxing the pre-load collar. The chassis moves away from the road surface and allows more suspension travel before the weight of the vehicle sets onto the solid chassis allowing the wheels to unweight and spin; do we really need to explore how this can affect tire life, especially on THIS car?
But you don't have to take my word on it, you can prove it yourself. take your Minolta in stock form to the Sarthe without the chicanes. Hand the keys to B-Spec Bob, ask him to go flat out, grab your soda and strap yourself to the rear wing. Let him roll up to about 220 (350kph). Those bright flecks streaming back are sparks, if the simulation were complete, your car would be getting lighter (and softer). Raise your rear 10mm and try it again. Not only are the sparks gone, but you will find your tire wear has just become "tolerable". Not bad results for changing one setting about 20%.
rk
There was no vibration at all on Sarthe. I have had trouble winning on this track, even with a superior car. Part of that was my being new to that track. When I used your tune I was beating my best lap times by about 5 seconds, even though I was losing control of the car a couple of times a lap. When I lowered the spring rate I was able to keep control and lower my times farther.
- 72
GTHO PH4
Patience mate, thats all it takes.
No really you should if you got the credits is to buy the audi r8 le mans racer
betta looks & handling. Trust me every 3 weeks i enter the 24hour Sarthe endurance race and with that car i never loose, But have you done the 24 hour race.
Staying up all night till the morning . yes i do some of the laps in B- Spec but at the same time i keep a close eye on whats happening, Tyre wear, What position im in, Whos behind or in front, etc
- 72
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Pink_the_Floyd
(Banned)
- 4,041
For the past 4 months, I tuned every Toyota in GT4 to perfection but I just CANNOT get decent set-ups for the 24h with the GT-ONE and the 88C-V.
So, anyone got some decent settings for those two beasts? Good speed on the straits without compromising cornering ability and tire wear.
No mods please.
So, anyone got some decent settings for those two beasts? Good speed on the straits without compromising cornering ability and tire wear.
No mods please.
fulcrumdriver
Great setting. I ran over a second fast at Laguna and it has enabled me to turn in still on the breaks.
I have been using full power with late breaking to the corner then off breaks an steer in powering through.
Even witht he extra power all the Ai cars are so much faster in the bend it leaves no room for error if i wanted a win.
I was able to catch the lead car witht his setting and apss him within a couple of laps
Thanks for the post, great settings again
- 2,571
My recommendation for the 88C-V at the Nordschleife is quite simple - use a different car.
It is the fastest car in the game around the Nürburgring, but only in the right hands. It is extremely difficult to drive over such a bumpy and unpredictable course flat-out. Even less stable than my mental GT-Rs
DE
It is the fastest car in the game around the Nürburgring, but only in the right hands. It is extremely difficult to drive over such a bumpy and unpredictable course flat-out. Even less stable than my mental GT-Rs
DE
Scaff
Moderator
- 29,772
- He/Him
- ScaffUK
No 'best' set-up around the 'ring exists, it depends on the driver of the car as much as the car and track itself.
The best way to deal with any set-up problems is to post up details of the car and the current set-up you are running, let us know what problems you are having and we can collectively point you in the right direction.
Regards
Scaff
I'm going to work out to break this best time on Deep Forest... I'll let you know...
I've got good driving skills (I think, never proven) but weak Tuning skills (proven lol)
EDIT : 2h14 pm
Track : DEEP FOREST RACEWAY
Car : MINOLTA TOYOTA 88C-V
Tires : R2/R2
Best Lap : 1'00.698 (Bet under 1'00.000 is possible)
Suspension Settings :
Rate : 13/13
Pretty soft rate since it's a bumpy track. Equal on rear and front, having a balanced car is the key to me on this track.
Height : 70/70
Higher car a little, to avoid the shock to bump into the chassis.
Bound : 5/5
Let the car react on that track.
Rebound : 8/8
Don't let the car "counter-react".
Camber : 4/2
Pretty conservative, this is my setting for most tracks... Only doubling up the normal setting. Permits cornering without lost of braking.
Toe : 0/+2
Slight +2 on rear to maximize the stability on straights.
Stabilizer : 4/6
A little more stability on the rear since that's where the traction is.
Brake Balance :
5/5
I like soft brakes because I like to have early-soft-balanced-braking in order to have the best exit possible. Harder brakes would result in less stability... Unafordable on this bumpy track.
Aids
0/0/ Traction: 2
Just to avoid spinning on curves exits
Tranny settings
Auto : 10
Final : 2.950
Low auto setting to allow good and powerful acceleration on twisty parts. Longer final to get higher high speed on straights.
Limited Slip
Default
Because I don't understand more than that WTF it does lol... Need a hand here, thx.
Downforce
Full
Simple, no LOOOOONNNGGG straights alot of fast curves... Full downforce.
I don't pretend to have the BEST setting, I pretend it's a good setting for my driving style on this track. I'd need someone to explain me the way work Limited-Slip Differentiel and its effects plz.
So, what do you think... All comments welcome.
on Deep Forest... I'll let you know...I've got good driving skills (I think, never proven) but weak Tuning skills (proven lol)
EDIT : 2h14 pm
Track : DEEP FOREST RACEWAY
Car : MINOLTA TOYOTA 88C-V
Tires : R2/R2
Best Lap : 1'00.698 (Bet under 1'00.000 is possible)
Suspension Settings :
Rate : 13/13
Pretty soft rate since it's a bumpy track. Equal on rear and front, having a balanced car is the key to me on this track.
Height : 70/70
Higher car a little, to avoid the shock to bump into the chassis.
Bound : 5/5
Let the car react on that track.
Rebound : 8/8
Don't let the car "counter-react".
Camber : 4/2
Pretty conservative, this is my setting for most tracks... Only doubling up the normal setting. Permits cornering without lost of braking.
Toe : 0/+2
Slight +2 on rear to maximize the stability on straights.
Stabilizer : 4/6
A little more stability on the rear since that's where the traction is.
Brake Balance :
5/5
I like soft brakes because I like to have early-soft-balanced-braking in order to have the best exit possible. Harder brakes would result in less stability... Unafordable on this bumpy track.
Aids
0/0/ Traction: 2
Just to avoid spinning on curves exits
Tranny settings
Auto : 10
Final : 2.950
Low auto setting to allow good and powerful acceleration on twisty parts. Longer final to get higher high speed on straights.
Limited Slip
Default
Because I don't understand more than that WTF it does lol... Need a hand here, thx.
Downforce
Full
Simple, no LOOOOONNNGGG straights alot of fast curves... Full downforce.
I don't pretend to have the BEST setting, I pretend it's a good setting for my driving style on this track. I'd need someone to explain me the way work Limited-Slip Differentiel and its effects plz.
So, what do you think... All comments welcome.
- 21
Ok I got the great setting for the Toyota 88C-V(It feels like you use nitrous the whole time)F=Front R=Rear
F / R
Suspension:
Spring Rate:
20.0/ 4.0
Ride Height:
50 / 90
Shock Bound:
10 / 10
Shock Rebound:
5 / 5
Camber Angle:
7.5 / 9.0
Toe Angle:
0 / 0
Stabilizers:
7 / 7:idea: (plus I used it to go 300MPH)
F / R
Suspension:
Spring Rate:
20.0/ 4.0
Ride Height:
50 / 90
Shock Bound:
10 / 10
Shock Rebound:
5 / 5
Camber Angle:
7.5 / 9.0
Toe Angle:
0 / 0
Stabilizers:
7 / 7:idea: (plus I used it to go 300MPH)
- 2,571
What, that exact setup? Hm.RSLCreator1000
Snyp, if you really aren't interested in the small straights, try removing a little rear downforce - the car may become a bit of a handful and straight speed will be reduced, but turn-in will be noticeably sharper.
DE
