Obtaining Better B-Spec Stats ??

  • Thread starter LivingSoul
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Testing Floating Battle Points

Meanwhile, I've been experiementing with Floating points with some interesting results. Based on the hypothesis that more difficult competition will provide more F-battle points, I ran some experiements using the Dodge RAM (more on that later). These proved to be quite successful so I continued with some testing on the Toyota Prius G Touring Selection. This worked out very well so I tested the Nissan MICRA '03 as a control and was surprized at how well this car works for A-1 points. No wonder the JP author abandoned the Lupo - this car rocks for A-1 racing, but sucks for a control of A-spec levels; it's too good.

Since the Prius TS can win on Nurburgring at a setting of +5 with max skill, or +4 starting at 0/0/0/0, it seemed like a good choice to test if a race worth more A-spec points as also worth more F-battle points. The RAM is too glitchy to provide accurate results.

So, starting with 110,000 I buy the Prius TS, oil it, and save. A couple hours of practice (~12 laps) on Nurburburgring should collect all 398 points (390 machine + 8 course). The last few points usually trickle in; especially for long runs. Restarting (2 laps + 2 laps + 1 lap) might be faster than running one long practice.

Oil the car, install some N1 tires, save and reset, - this is part of the formula; I'm not sure why it works. I wanted a lower level competition so there would always be two slow cars in the line up. BTW, I always oil my cars, and from best I can tell, so does the JP author. I also oil my cars between events. What I thought was a reduction in machine points because my car was no longer tuned to the peak of it's class, may instead be a penalty for used oil. There are hints about this in the JP website. So: Car A default implies; as bought or won and the oil is changed unless otherwise noted.

Okay, here we are with 398/12/6/0 and need to collect 200/0/0/5; 196 F-battle + 4 T-battle (or so depending on fractions) to reach the 598/12/6/5 milestone. The goal is to collect all 200 battle points in a single race. I can't figure out why these races work so well. It has something to do with the dynamics of the races. This is usually consistent if the line-up is the same, and the controls never change. So I'm looking for the Fire and Forget setting for these races. However, if you use the same settings with a different skill level, you might get different results.

A-1 Ringers

Toyota Prius G Touring Selection (J) '03 + N1 tires
Family Cup level +6 on Nurburgring (A-spec=115)
Pace 1 or 2 until T2 (after hairpin)
Then Pace 3 (steady) + overtake to the end

Line-up #1 (after reset)
Daihatsu Move SR-XX 4WD '97
Nissan Skyline 1500 Deluxe (S500-1) '63
Nissan Cube EX (FF/CVT) '02
Honda S800 '66
Mitsubishi Minica Dangan ZZ '89
Toyota Prius G Touring Selection (J) '03 + N1 tires

After almost catching the leader near the end of 1 lap, the Prius TS will usually finish 3rd or 4th after a fairly dramatic battle. The Prius is fast on the straights, but the N1 tires allow the opponents to pass on the corners. Also, the Prius has a very poor 2nd lap. It's a hybrid, so I guess the batteries are only full to start the first lap.

Every time I try this setting I scored 598/12/6/5 - all A-1 battle points in a single race. The same settings worked for line-up 3, but the second place finish for line-up 2 didn't score quite as high (544).

Nissan Micra '03
Family Cup level +3 on Nurburgring (A-spec=48)
Pace 1 or 2 until T2 (after hairpin)
Then Pace 4 (fast) + overtake to the end

Line-up #1 (after reset)
Opel Corsa Comfort 1.4 '01
Suzuki Cappuccino (EA21R) '95
Triumph Spitfire 1500 '74
Honda Civic 1500 3 Door CX '79
Nissan Bluebird Hardtop 1800SSS '79
Nissan Micra '03

This Ringer wasn't quite as reliable. The Micra scored 598 for 1st, 593 for an almost identical and equally close 2nd, and 598 for a dramatic 3rd place loss to the Opel at the last second. Of special note: I had an early pass at the start of this race. The slow cars tend to get passed without permission just after T1 and before the hairpin. This time I let it finish and still scored full points. I still think it is important to wait until after T1 before passing, but I usually wait until after T2 anyway. And... I just finished another full score 1st using the same settings. Great finish - grinding door to door with the Civic until the end.

I haven't tested this car for machine points, but if this is the same car identified by the JP author as a Nissan March 12c 5 door '01, then it should be able to collect all available points in two races on the Ring (+566+32+0).

Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie Hemi Quad Cab '04

The Dodge Ram is a known glitch vehicle and scores way too many A-spec points. It does very well on B-spec points but I'm not sure if it's for the same reason or not. My tests for this vehicle were a little different. The RAM will dominate a Family Cup level +10 worth 187 A-spec points, so finding the right line-up for a dramatic battle doesn't work, and I don't know how to earn all points manually. The best score for the Ram was 572. However, some other tests worked out nicely.

The RAM doesn't collect machine points on the Ring very quickly so I tried some other tracks and found that Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca was a hot track for an A-1 tuned RAM. So I installed all the parts I could afford for 110,000 credits and entered the Beginner Sports Truck Race. After finishing the series once and repeating Laguna Seca, or racing Laguna Seca 4 times, all A-1 points were collected.

Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie Hemi Quad Cab '04 (NA2, S1, + everything)
Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca (4 times)
Beginner Sports Truck Race (and Laguna twice)

I can't remember the parts I used, I was being conservative so I could also buy the R4 tires (+572HP) that would boost the Ram up into the A-2 sub-class. Unfrotunately, the Truck race won't allow racing tires and I didn't have the credits for the NA3, so I couldn't test that series for A-2 points. However, Laguna wasn't cooperating with the A-2 machine points. Fuji 90's worked much better. (568HP + R2 - light weight 3 = A-1 -> 572HP = A-2).
 
So, could you tell me in short what car i should use, how to tune it, and what track I should use and in where(family cup, beginners hall,..)?
I did some tests with the Dodge ram as you told above, with different setups, NA2/S1, NA2/S2, NA3/S1 & NA3/S2.. they were all pretty equal, got most points in the beginners hall (truck race) tho..

nice speculations tho, keep it up!
 
Blush! I've never actually used a Toyota Prius in the game at all--not A-spec nor B-spec. And now I realize there's two different models. Are they both reasonably equivalent in A-spec points (and therefore presumably in B-spec qualities), or is only the "Touring Selection" so charmed? Or is the "Touring Selection" merely slightly better charmed?

(Goes away to read the A-spec maximizing thread(s) for a while).
 
SportWagon
Blush! I've never actually used a Toyota Prius in the game at all--not A-spec nor B-spec. And now I realize there's two different models. Are they both reasonably equivalent in A-spec points (and therefore presumably in B-spec qualities), or is only the "Touring Selection" so charmed? Or is the "Touring Selection" merely slightly better charmed?

(Goes away to read the A-spec maximizing thread(s) for a while).
Click to expand...

Charmed might be a better description of the Prius TS than glitched. The Ram is obviously in the wrong catagory at 468HP + S3 + LW3 and still an A-1 car - definately glitched. If you haven't driven the Prius TS before then I think you will enjoy the experience. It's a gas/electric hybrid with one of those unique HUDs. I think it may be rated properly, but performs well due to qualities of the hybrid. It's sister model - the non-hybrid Prius is also a good car and performs well for it's class.

I found I was able to win an A-spec 200 race using the Prius TS on one of the events on the Beginner Course by using lots of shortcuts and agressive driving, but upgrading the hybrid doesn't help it's performance so it isn't much use for anything else. Also, you can't install NOS on a hybrid.

In order to determine if a car does well for it's class, I enter it into Family Cup races on Nurburgring and set it get steady 3 and overtake. I expect an average car to possibly win at FC+0. A good car like the Lupo would be rated FC+2. I expect the Prius G '02 would probably be a FC+1 or FC+2. The Mirca does well at FC+3/+4, depending on the pace. The Prius TS rates FC+4/+5, depending on the line-up. The Ram is off the scale at FC+11 by winning FC+10 by more than a minute.

However, the Prius TS may not be the best choice for battle points, it has a terrible second lap and this seems to be an important factor. The RAM is awkward to work with because it over powers the competition at any level, but I think I finally worked out a system that allows the RAM to be a reasonable choice.
 
Maximizing Floating Battle Points

I had some very successful Floating Battle Point tests today. I was writing up a report, but the Blue Screen of Death was followed by a RAID-0 failure on my main computer. I didn't lose my scribbled notes, but I'm probably done testing for a while. Anyway, here are some general conclusions.

A-1 Floating Battle Points on Nurburgring

Winning is better than loosing.
More difficult races might earn more points, but this is not needed.
Pace seems to have no influence on F-battle points.
Overtake always on, or only when needed, makes no difference.
Passing after T1 and before the hairpin can still earn all points.
Full F-battle points can be earned when using the pit.
The little yellow/orange arrows build battle skill.

I was concentating on two factors, leaving overtake on at all times, and trying to keep the arrow that indicates a faster split in front of my car as much as possible. Catching up the entire race was a strategy that was successful using the Micra, Lupo, and Ram. Each car was also tested with the same strategy at different difficulty levels. Once I found a consistant race, I dropped the overtake requirement and still earn all the points.

One way to accomplish a perfect race is to increase the difficulty to find the level where this happens for a specific car, tuning and line-up. This can be controlled somewhat using the pace and overtake buttons. The other way is to use a good car or low difficulty, pass each car one at a time, and chase the leader down for a lap. Then pit and wait long enough to allow just enough time to take 1st before the end of the race.

The race I used for the final testing was the Micra on the Ring at FC+0. The Micra can win a much harder race, but my default line-up for this race included the Prius G and Prius TS. The magic formula was Pace 1 to create a gap at T1, then increase speed to 3 to pickup the arrow at T2. Enable overtake and let the race run to the end. The Micra will finally catch the Prius TS around T10 on the second lap and probably pass too soon and lose the lead at T11. Control the final pass to win, or set Pace 4 for the second lap so the Micra will lead by T8 or T9 and have a safe lead to the finish line. BTW, if your B-spec level isn't 398/12/6/0 at the start of the race, I would expect slightly different results.

The reason the Micra is better than the Lupo is the Micra can run the full Ring at Pace 4 without error and the Lupo will make errors at pace 3. However, the Lupo sure was happy about raking in huge gobs of the F-battle points. The Ram is a good car for a great second lap - once you find the timing, but it spawns competition that is way too slow unless set to at least FC+6. The Ram is terrible at machine points on the Ring, but good on Laguna Seca. The Prius TS was good for machine points on the Ring, but has a terrible second lap. I was never happy with how well the Lupo finished off the machine points on the Ring, despite a fast start. I haven't tested the Micra for machine points, but I suspect it will do very well.

I would feel more confident about these conclusions if someone could repeat these results.
 
Ignore these courses when collecting track points.
  • Rally Tracks - No Family Cups available
  • Test Course - No Family Cup
  • Tsukuba Wet - Only one opponent
  • Suzuka West - Only track with normal Family Cup and 0 track points.
For the complete List of 58 B-spec Tracks follow this link.
http://gtplanet.net/forum/showpost.php?p=1832568&postcount=154

Keeping detailed records of how many points were earned by a car and which track was raced (either Family Cups or Events) is important for anyone trying to collect 10000/100/100/100 - even if you are not starting from 0/0/0/0. You won't need to be as organized if you are content with most of the points.

Side Note: I guess I was wrong, Test Course is not a good track for testing floating points without earning track points (0/0/0/0 to 7000/100/70/70) - there are no Family Cups. Suzuka West might useful for a test game, but it doesn't open until Day 127.
 
Orion_SR
Keeping detailed records of how many points were earned by a car and which track was raced (either Family Cups or Events) is important for anyone trying to collect 10000/100/100/100 - even if you are not starting from 0/0/0/0.
Click to expand...
Um, I'd say, especially if you are not starting from 0/0/0/0.

If starting from 0/0/0/0 you might be able to play to the predictions without records; i.e. your current score would tell you where to race next (maybe).
 
nunji
So, could you tell me in short what car i should use, how to tune it, and what track I should use and in where(family cup, beginners hall,..)?
I did some tests with the Dodge ram as you told above, with different setups, NA2/S1, NA2/S2, NA3/S1 & NA3/S2.. they were all pretty equal, got most points in the beginners hall (truck race) tho..

nice speculations tho, keep it up!
Click to expand...
The answer depends on your goals, what's already been done, and how you like to play the game. Detailed records of the B-spec points earned in each race and which car was used might also provide some clues to where to race next. What is your current level/machine/course/battle scores, and which races have been raced using B-spec?

Check SportWagon's B-spec reference thread for links to specific methods.The JP Method 1 using the Lupo/Miata/RSC/350Z has been used with some success by many people. I suspect the updated car list from the JP Author using the Micra/Miata/Impreza/350Z will work even better. I have also made suggestions for cars and tunings to be used to earn floating point in event races instead of Family Cups on the Ring a few message ago.

The only method for collecting the track points is to cover each track with an A, B, C, and D class car. This is easier to track using Family Cups. These points can also be earned in event races, but I don't think it is possible to earn all track points without racing in Family Cups because some of the tracks are rarely used in events.

B-spec Reference Thread - Must Read
http://gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=69405

Floating Points in Event Races - new strategy
http://gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=2186574#post2186574
 
Earning B-spec Points and Credits (Plan 2)

The goal of this strategy is to collect all Floating Points by winning events that earn the cars or credits needed to make the collection, and even earn a small profit in the process. This test was started from Day 1 with 10,000 credits, but the strategy should also apply to people trying to build B-spec skills, or are looking for stray points.

If you change the horsepower, tires, down force or weight of these vehicles you may change the sub-class. The power listed is max for the sub-class using the specified parts, so it should be safe to handicap the vehicle to your liking. Also, in some cases it is worth the investment to pay for other upgrades – he’ll win more races and they have no influence on the B-spec points earned.

A-1 (Day 1)

Suzuki Cappuccino (EA11R) '91 (~5,000 credit)
* Oil (50 cr.) and Install Turbo 1 to reach 77HP (4,500 cr.)

Suzuki K-Car Cup, race #2, Tsukuba Circuit. Win 5,000 cr. 319/6/4/3
* Install Semi-racing exhaust or other parts to reach 83HP.

Beginner Hall, Light-weight K-Car Cup, race #2, Tsukuba Circuit. Win 2,000 cr. 364/7/4/3

Suzuki K-Car Cup, race #2, Tsukuba Circuit. Win 5,000 cr. 393/8/5/3
Suzuki K-Car Cup, race #2, Tsukuba Circuit. Win 5,000 cr. 404/8/5/3

Nurburgring Family Cup +2, Win 200 cr (4th), 574/11/6/6
* Battle skill 6 for 2 tracks is used to confirm the battle points (2 point margin of error)

Nurburgring Practice mode, 1 hour practice (6 laps), 611/12/6/6
* Milestone 586 + 2 tracks (1 track is 598/12/6/5) is 611/12/6/6

A-2 (Day 9)

* Oil Cappuccino and Install a Wing with 30/30 down force to upgrade to A-2.

Beginner Hall, Light-weight K-Car Cup, race #3, Beginner Course Normal. Win 2,000 cr. 905/17/10/9

Beginner Hall, Light-weight K-Car Cup, race #1, Motorland Normal. Win 2,000 cr. 984/18/11/9
* Win Ginetta G4 ‘64
* Reset Cappucino to A-1

Ginetta, oiled, S3 tires, Racing Chip, Sports Exhaust to 102HP

Europe Classic Car League, race #1, Fuji Speedway ‘80
* Avoid AC Cars and Jaguar E-Type Coupe to win 10,000 credits each race.

10 races on Fuji ’80, 1386/25/14/13 (milestone for A-1 + A-2 + 5 tracks)

B- 1 (Day 25)

Honda Civic SiR-II (EG) '91 (used)
258HP, Racing Hard (R2) and good parts (total ~45,000 credits)

Japan One-make Honda Civic Race. Earn two or three prize cars. 2243/36/24/21
* This car had problems earning all points, especially battle points.
* Finish up the points on Suzuka East FC-2
* Milestone for A + B-1 + 10 tracks is 2353/37/24/23

B-2 (Day ??)
Renault Clio Renault Sport V6 Phase 2 '03 (423HP, R3 tires)
* 423HP = Port polish, NA3, Racing Chip, Semi-racing exhaust
* Also add good parts, but avoid the racing transmission unless you know how to tune it.

Race and Win the Clio Trophy One-make series twice. 3481/50/36/34
* Milestone for B-2 is 3481/50/36/34 (A + B + 14 tracks)

C-1

Nissan Skyline GT-R M-Spec Nur (R34) '02
* Weight reduction level 3, S3 tires, 641HP

Win the Japan Championship once, repeat Fuji ‘90s for missing points. 4623/62/48/46
* Milestone for C-1 is 4623/62/48/46 (A + B + C-1 + 19 tracks)

C-2

Upgrade the Skyline with a Wing and 30/33 down force and as much as 724HP
* Too much power seems to slow the F-battle points.

Win the Japan Championship twice, check Suzuka for missing points. 5606/75/57/55
* Milestone for C-2 is 5606/75/57/55 (A + B + C + 19 tracks)

D-1

Opel Astra Touring Car '00
I like the Abt Audi TT-R better, but this is the car used for this test
* Install R2 tires and Turbo 3 (tweak the transmission for Opera Paris)

Race the Deutsche Touring Car Meisterschaft. 6549/87/66/65
* Once should be enough, missing points are likely to be machine points.
* Milestone for D-1 is 6549/87/66/65 (A + B + C + D-1 + 24 tracks)

D-2
Opel Astra Touring Car '00
* Install R2 tires and Turbo 4 (don’t forget the Opera tweak)

Race the Deutsche Touring Car Meisterschaft. 7310/100/73/73
* Once was enough with the Abt Audi TT-R
* Milestone for D-2 is 7310/100/73/73 (A + B + C + D + 24 tracks)

7310 is 5 tracks short of the 7375/100/73/73 milestone that confirms that all fractions are collected for the initial 29 race cycle. 5 fairly worthless races were completed to confirm the collection before resetting back to 7310. Some ending stats were:

797 B-spec miles – could be better
5.4% complete, 73/83=89% win ratio, 78 trophies
Prize money earned was 951,500 cr. Cash on hand was 1,138,769 credits
11 Cars – I still own one of each prize car and the upgraded B-spec cars.
109 Days – finished floating points (7310) in about 100 days.
 
Fixing Comprehensive Skill 10000

Link to JP web page
http://www.geocities.jp/j8ba7yrg/gt4/8_10000.html

Google Translation
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.geocities.jp/j8ba7yrg/gt4/8_10000.html

So you tried aiming toward comprehensive skill 10000.

I think I've finally figured out why this page is important. I looks like the JP author used the JP1 tuning set, entered each race in Family Cup races at difficulty level 0, set the pace to slow down, and turned on overtake to start the race. I suspect the author was trying to lose or finish 5th for every race. This information would be useful for people trying to find missing track points.

Unfortunately, many of the more interesting tracks (tracks that needed to be repeated many times before all the points were collected), are at the end of the page an not fully translated - but it looks like the pattern for A and B is repeated in the same order for C and D. On several occasions the author earned +0 points on tracks where he would have known more points must remain.

So, if you have finished the sweeps and are still missing points, then this page would probably provide the best clues to where to look next.

Other notes related to tracks from the JP author.
  • Twin link has the ぎ super speedway especially main point note.
  • Twin link have ぎ west short course, high speed link - A - B Note

* When achieving victory ratio 100%, as for harsh course, category D Motor sport land II - A - B Beginner course - A - B Autumn link * mini

* In this case, I think A - B denotes forward and reverse.

I reorganized the data from this site into a spreadsheet and hid the columns with the points to get a better picture of which tracks were causing problems. Four courses stand out for each class: Super Speedway, Twin Link - West short, and Beginner forward and reverse.

The D class car had difficulty with several tracks. The A class car also struggled with some tracks. The B and C class cars had very little trouble collecting all the points on any track except those listed above.
 

Attachments

  • Stubborn B-spec Tracks.zip
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Maximizing Floating Points

I ran some tests on floating points to see if I could collect the points more quickly. I used the updated JP car list for this test but only had the credits to test sub-classes A-1, through B-1. However, the same strategies for improving the speed of the collection applied to all three tunings.

Machine Points

Pace 1: Slower is better. This applies to the first race of this sub-class when large amounts of points are being collected. There seems to be a penalty for Pace 5 and a bonus for Pace 1. Example scores for 2 laps of practice starting from 598 for sub-class A-2 are:

P1=1031, P2=1011, P3=1009, P4=995, P5=848

Pace 3: A steady pace is slightly better for collecting the points that tend to remain after a couple laps of Slow Down. These points tend to trickle in but can be collected eventually will enough practice.

Sports Tires: Hard (S1) - For some reason S1 tires provide a slight improvement in the rate at which machine points are collected. They also provide an interesting handicap for the Ring which stresses power and speed over handling – perfect for a come-from-behind win.

Peak Tuning: Upgrading a vehicle with horsepower, down-force, tires, or weight reduction to the peak of its power sub-class provides a small increase in the rate of collection.

Oil: On more than one occasion I noticed an improvement in the rate of collection after changing the oil, but I have not been unable to find the pattern.

Racing Bonus - A bonus can be earned for winning a perfect race – sometimes the bonus is double. I never quite figured out what the rules were for earning a bonus, but they seem to be related to a come-back win. Example scores for the second race of the A-2 collection starting at 2211 are:

Normal (lose/practice) ~2223, Regular Bonus ~2233, Double Bonus ~2244

Proximity: I have been unable to find a relationship between a close race and points earned. A double bonus was once earned for leading the last half lap and winning by 14 seconds.

Put into Practice on Nurburgring

A-1: Nissan Micra ’03, S1 tires, 100HP (106HP w/S1=A1)
(Family Cup difficulty level, Pace, Overtake on after T2)
FC-2, P1+OT, 575/12/6/5
FC-0, P3+OT, 598/12/6/5

A-2: Miata 1800 RS, S1 tires, 196HP
FC-2, P1+OT, 1318/24/14/13
FC-0, P3+OT, 1335/25/14/13


B-1: Miata 1800 RS, S1 tires, 304HP
FC-6, P1-3+OT, 2211/36/23/22
FC-0 (line-up 2), P3+OT, 2244/37/23/22
FC-0, P3+OT, 2249/37/23/22

The difficulty levels were chosen so the race would be won by a short margin after slowly overtaking the leader for two laps using the selected pace. This strategy was fairly successful in collecting all floating battle points and as many machine points as possible during the first race of the sub-class.
 
If you find a track the B-Spec bob isn't very good at, Leave him in a race meeting in a really slow car (fiat punto or something crap) over night and he'll learn that track.

Cheers,

T4 GTR
 
T4 GTR
If you find a track the B-Spec bob isn't very good at, Leave him in a race meeting in a really slow car (fiat punto or something crap) over night and he'll learn that track.

Cheers,

T4 GTR
Click to expand...
This is a good strategy for building machine and course skill, but practicing without racing is likely to cause your battle skill to lag behind the course skill. So if you find a track that provides points while practicing for any car, go ahead and drive it over night to collect the machine points, but be sure to race that car to collect the matching battle points.

Once your machine skill is at 100, endless practice is unlikely to provide any more points than two or three laps. Also, as far as we can tell, the skills earned apply equally to all machines, courses, and battles. As your B-driver becomes better at driving your practice track by collecting low level points, he will become more skilled with all the tracks.
 
Normal Car Family Cup Opposition Table

This table was developed as a method for estimating the class or sub-class for any normal car and tuning by entering it in Family Cup races at level 0 and comparing the opposition line-ups against this table. This strategy might be useful for predicting which points might be earned, or were previously earned, with a specific car. The following cars were tuned to be close to the peak of their sub-class in a previous test of floating points and were used as the standard for sub-class levels in this table.

A-1: Suzuki Cappuccino (EA11R) '91, 83HP
A-2: Ginetta G4 '64, 102HP + S3 tires
B-1: Honda Civic SiR-II (EG) '91. 261HP + R2 tires
B-2: Renault Clio Renault Sport V6 Phase 2 '03, 423HP + R3 tires
C-1: Nissan Skyline GT-R M-Spec Nur (R34) '02, 641HP + S3 tires + light-weight 3
C-2: Nissan Skyline GT-R M-Spec Nur (R34) '02, 724HP + S3 tires + light-weight 3, Wing 30/33

Sub-class, Family Cup Difficulty Level, Opposition Cars
A-1, -10, Carol 360 Deluxe, Fiat 500R, Honda Life Step Van, Honda Z Act, Subaru 360, VW Beetle 1100 Standard
A-1, -9, Honda N360, Honda S500, Honda Today G, Honda Z Act, Midget II D-type, VW Beetle 1100 Standard
A-1, -8, Dodge Ram 1500, Honda N360, Honda S500, Honda Today G, Honda Z Act, Midget II D-type
A-1, -7, Dodge Ram 1500, Honda S500, Karmann Ghia Couple, Midget II D-type, Move CX, Panda Super i.e.
A-1, -6, Honda S600, Karmann Ghia Couple, Move CX, Pao, Panda Super i.e., Storia CX 4WD
A-1, -5, Ford Ka, Honda S600, Be-1, Pao, Storia CX 4WD, Alto Lapin Turbo, Wagon R RR, Toyota Sports 800
A-1, -4, Move Custom RS Limited, Be-1, Cube X, Skyline 1500 Deluxe, Kei Works, MR Wagon Sport, Prius G, Prius G Touring Selection, Toyota Sports 800
A-1, -3, Autozam AZ-1, Copen Active Top, Honda S800, Move SR-XX 4WD, Cube X, Skyline 1500 Deluxe, Kei Works, Prius G, Prius G Touring Selection, Vitz F
A-1, -2, A112 Abarth, Cappuccicno, Beat Version F, Element, Honda S800, Corsa Comfort 1.4, Vitz F, Triumph Spitfire 1500
A-1, -1, A112 Abarth, Bluebird Hardtop 1800SSS, Cappuccicno, Copen Detachable Top, Insight, Mirage 1400GLX, Micra, Vitz U Euro Sport, Volvo 240 GLT Estate
A-1, 0, Bluebird Hardtop 1800SSS, Citroen C3 1.6, Civic 1500 3door CX, Fit W, Insight, Demio Sport, Colt 1.5 Sport X Version, Vitz U Euro Sport, Lupo 1.4, Xsara VTR
A-1, 1, Bluebird Hardtop 1800SSS, Demio Sport, Mini Cooper, Tigra 1.6i, Peugeot 106 Rallye, Vitz RS 1.5, New Beetle 2.0, Polo GTI, Xsara VTR
A-1, 2, Celica 1600GT, Civic 1500 3door CX, Galant GTO MR, Accord Coupe, Isuzu 117 Coupe, Piazza XE, Spider 1600 Duetto, Vitz RS 1.5, Polo GTI
A-1, 3, PT Cruiser, Talon Esi, Barchetta Giovane Due, Giulia Sprint GTA 1600, Isuzu 117 Coupe, MR2 1600 G, Peugeot 307 Xsi, Silvia Q's, Lupo Gti
A-2, -3, PT Cruiser, Citroen C3 1.6, Giulia Sprint GTA 1600, Accord Coupe, Isuzu 117 Coupe, Demio Sport, Tigra 1.6i, Skyline 2000GT-B, Vitz RS 1.5, Polo GTI
A-2, -2, Cardina ED 2.0 X 4WS, PT Cruiser, Honda 1300 Coupe 9 S, Accord Coupe, Piazza XE, Miata, Mini Marcos GT, MR2 1600 G, Peugeot 106 Rallye
A-2, -1, Alpine A310 1600VE, BMW 120i, Fairlady Z 280Z-L 2seater, Giulia Sprint GTA 1600, Miata J-Limited, Miata SR-Limited, Peugeot 106 S16, Peugeot 307 Xsi
A-2, 0, Corolla Levin GT-Apex, Giulia Sprint GTA 1600, Mazda 110S, Protégé, MGF, Miata VR-Limited, MR2 1600 G-Limited SC, Vibe GT, Silvia Varietta, Skyline 2000GT-R
A-2, 1, BMW 120d, Civic SiR-II (EG), Lexus IS200, Elise Type 72, MGF, Miata 1.8 RS, MR2 Spyder, Sunfire GXP Concept, Silvia Varietta, Vitz RS Turbo
A-2, 2, Accord Euro-R, Celica 2000GT-R, Chevrolet SSR, Civic SiR-II (EG), Clio Sport 2.0 16V, Honda CR-X SiR, Lotus Elise, Mazda RX-7 GT-Ltd, Xantia 3,0i V6 Exclusive
A-2, 3, Audi A3, Citroen C5 V6 Exclusive, Mercedes SLK 230 Kompressor, Mitsubishi FTO GPX, Prelude So VTEC, Skyline HT 2000 Turbo RS, Spider 3.0i V6 24V
A-2, 4, Celica GT-Four RC, Fiat Coupe Turbo Plus, Integra Type-R, Lotus Europa Special, Mazda Kusabi, MR2 G-Limited, New Beetle Rsi, Supra SZ-R
B-1, -4, Lexus IS300 Sport Cross, Mazda Kusabi, Mazda RX-8, Mitsubishi 3000GT SL, Mitsubishi FTO GP version R, Prelude Type S, Suzuki Concept-S2, VW Golf V GTI
B-1, -3, Accord Euro-R, Audi A3 3.2 quattro, Audi TT Coupe 1.8T quattro, BMW 330i, Celica GT-Four RC, Mercedes 300 SL Coupe, New Beetle Rsi, Nissan 240SX, Prelude Si VTEC
B-1, -2, Alfa Romero 147 GTA, BMW 330i, Camero IROC-Z, Honda S2000, Elise 111R, Mercedes 300 SL Coupe, CZ-3 Tarmac, Mazda RX-7 Type R, Legacy B4 Blitzen
B-1, -1, ASL Garaiya, Celica GT-Four, Camero IROC-Z, Clio Sport V6 24V, Fairlady Z 300ZX, Honda S2000, Lexus GS300, Elise 111R, Legacy B4 2.0, Speedster Turbo
B-1, 0, Acura NSX, ASL Garaiya, Honda NSX, Impreza Sedan WRX Sti, Lexus SC300, Mazdaspeed 6, Mercedes SL 500, Legacy Wagon 2.0GT, Supra 2.5GT
B-1, 1, Silverado SST Concept, Fairlady Z Version ST, Holden Commodore SS, Honda NSX, Lancer Evolution VII GT-A, Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 Turbo, Skyline GT-R Vspec
B-1, 2, Acura NSX Coupe, Chevelle SS 454, Honda NSX-R Concept, Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 Turbo, Nissan 350Z, Skyline GT-R V-spec II Nur, TVR V8S
B-1, 3, Chevelle SS 454, FPV GT, Honda NSX Type S Zero, Maxda RX-7 Type R Bathurst R, Cougar XR-7, Tempest Le Mans GTO, RUF 3400S, Skyline GT-R Vspec
B-2, -3, Audi RS 4, Chevelle SS 454, FPV F6 Typhoon, Honda NSX-R Concept, Lancer Evolution VIII RS, Mazda RX-7 Type RZ, Cougar XR-7, RUF 3400S, Skyline GT-R
B-2, -2, Audi RS 4, BMW M3 GTR, Corvette ZR-1, FPV GT, Jauguar S-Type R, Espirt V8 SE, Mercedes CLK 55 AMG, Cuda 440 Six Pack, Super Bird, RUF 3400S, TVR T350C
B-2, -1, Acura HSC, Audi RS 6 Avant, BMW M3 CSL, BMW M3 GTR, Corvette ZR-1, Esprit V8 GT, Cuda 440 Six Pack, Super Bird, Shelby Series 1 Super Charged, TVR T350C
B-2, 0, Acura DN-X, Aston Martin DB9 Coupe, Audi RS 6, Callaway C12, Esprit Sport 350, Mercedes E 55 AMG, Shelby Series 1 Super Charged, TVR Cerbera Speed Six
B-2, 1, Acura DN-X, Aston Martin Vanquish, Corvette Z06, Mercedes E 55 AMG, Mitsubishi HSR-II Concept, RUF BTR, TVR Cerbera Speed Six, TVR Tamora
B-2, 2, Aston Martin V8 Vantage, Aston Martin Vanquish, Mercedes SL 55 AMG, Nissan GT-R Concept, Pagani Zonda C12, TVR Griffin 500, TVR Tamora, TVR Tuscan Speed 6
B-2, 3, AC Cars 427 S/C, BMW M5, Dodge Viper SRT10, Mercedes SL 55 AMG, Mercedes SL 600, Nissan GT-R Concept, Pagani Zonda C12
C-1, -3, AC Cars 427 S/C, BMW M5, Dodge Viper SRT10, Mercedes SL 55 AMG, Nissan R390 GT1 Road Car, Pagani Zonda C12, Spyker C8 Laviolette
C-1, -2, AC Cars 427 S/C, Dodge Viper GTSR Concept, Dodge Viper SRT10, Nissan R390 GT1 Road Car, Pagani Zonda C12, Spyker C8 Laviolette,
C-1, -1, Dodge Viper GTSR Concept, Ford GT, Mercedes SL 65 AMG, Nissan R390 GT1 Road Car, Ruf CTR Yellow Bird, RUF CTR2, Shelby Cobra 427
C-1, 0, Cizeta V16T, Ford GT '02, Jaguar XJ220, Mercedes SL 65 AMG, Pagani Zonda C12S, Ruf CTR Yellow Bird, RUF CTR2, Shelby Cobra 427
C-1, 1, Cizeta V16T, Ford GT, Jaguar XJ220, Mercedes SL 65 AMG, Pagani Zonda C12S,
C-1, 2, Audi Le Mans quattro, Ford GT '05, Honda NSX-R Prototype LM Road Car, Mercedes SLR McLaren, Pagani Zonda C12S 7.3, Saleen S7,
C-1, 3, Audi Le Mans quattro, Honda NSX-R Prototype LM Road Car, Mercedes SLR McLaren, Pagani Zonda C12S 7.3, Saleen S7, VW W12 Nardo Concept,
C-2, -3, Audi Le Mans quattro, Honda NSX-R Prototype LM Road Car, Mercedes SLR McLaren, Pagani Zonda C12S 7.3, Saleen S7, VW W12 Nardo Concept,
C-2, -2, Audi Le Mans quattro, Honda NSX-R Prototype LM Road Car, Mercedes SLR McLaren, Pagani Zonda C12S 7.3, Tommy kaira ZZII, VW W12 Nardo Concept,
C-2, -1, Audi Le Mans quattro, Honda NSX-R Prototype LM Road Car, Mercedes SLR McLaren, Pagani Zonda C12S 7.3, Tommy kaira ZZII, VW W12 Nardo Concept,
C-2, 0, Cadilac Cien, Honda NSX-R Prototype LM Road Car, Mercedes SLR McLaren, Pagani Zonda C12S 7.3, Tommy kaira ZZII, VW W12 Nardo Concept
C-2, 1, Cadilac Cien, Honda NSX-R Prototype LM Road Car, Mercedes SLR McLaren, Pagani Zonda C12S 7.3, Tommy kaira ZZII, VW W12 Nardo Concept
C-2, 2, Cadilac Cien, Honda NSX-R Prototype LM Road Car, Mercedes SLR McLaren, Pagani Zonda C12S 7.3, Tommy kaira ZZII, TVR Cerbera Speed 12, VW W12 Nardo Concept
C-2, 3, Cadilac Cien, Honda NSX-R Prototype LM Road Car, Mercedes SLR McLaren, Pagani Zonda C12S 7.3, Tommy kaira ZZII, TVR Cerbera Speed 12, VW W12 Nardo Concept

This is a rough guide for B-spec class levels - not a precise measure. The lines between classes are blurry; the same opposition car can spawn across several levels. When reading the table: A-2, -3 would be the Ginetta entered at difficulty level -3. B-2, 2 is the Clio at level +2. An A-2, -3 car should collect A-2 floating points and A class track points. I suspect a B-2, +2 car would collect C-1 floating points and C class track points, but I'm not so sure about a B-2, +1 car, or even B-2, +0.
 
Go on... Tip me...

After doing the first 7,000/100/70/70, I'm 1 machine point and 1 course point short (7,034/99/69/70).

I've tried every class of car again and can't seem to eke out those last two points. For reference, I scored:
A1 - 596/12/6/5
A2 - 737/13/8/8
B1 - 899/13/9/9
B2 - 1,077/12/11/11
C1 - 1,090/13/11/11
C2 - 983/12/10/9
D1 - 891/13/8/9
D2 - 761/12/6/8

I've italicised the points at which I didn't get all the course points that are supposedly available (B2/D2), but on C2 I got more, and the machine points almost never tally with the alleged available ones (usually one more or less - only in A1 did I get the same amount).

So... any words of wisdom? Is there perhaps some method of active B-spec of which I'm unaware?
 
I had the same problem with my C-1 class, I got the extra points by putting my car in pace 1 & leaving overtake off.

It appears that adhering strictly to the racing line may be more beneficial for collecting Floating course points (see Orion's 8th post on page 16 to see how the pace effects you point earnings.
 
Famine
Go on... Tip me...
Click to expand...

1 machine point and 1 course point short (7,034/99/69/70) +17 = 7051/100/70/70.

A1 - 596/12/6/5 (+2 = 598)
A2 - 737/13/8/8
B1 - 899/13/9/9 (+15 = 914)
B2 - 1,077/12/11/11
C1 - 1,090/13/11/11
C2 - 983/12/10/9
D1 - 891/13/8/9
D2 - 761/12/6/8

Scores for A-2, and B-2 thru D-2 appear on target according to the JP prediction table (comprehensive skill 10000 template).

A1 - 596/12/6/5 (+2 = 598)
Lupo 1.4 default (JP1)
Nissan Micra '03 default (JP2)
Nissan Micra '03, 100/106HP +S1 tires
Suzuki Cappuccino (EA11R) '91, 83HP
 Triumph Spitfire 1500 '74, 15/15 downforce, 82 HP
Dodge Ram 1500 (difficulty level +10)

 B1 - 899/13/9/9 (+14 = 914)
Miata 1800 RS + supercharger (JP1)
Miata 1800 RS + Supercharger + Racing medium (R3) (JP2)
Miata 1800 RS, 304HP, S1 tires *
Honda Civic SiR-II (EG) '91. 261HP + R2 tires

I suspect you are missing only machine points, so practicing should be enough. However, since these seem to be sticky points, I'd recommend going for the come-back win bonus anyway. Oil your cars, this seems to help when the points are stuck - I'm not sure why. Try different line-ups. Review the Maximizing Floating Points strategy posted a few message back for other tips on collecting Floating Points.

The B-1 points are stubborn, even with a peaked tuned Miata (*). I recommend entering the 304HP +S3 Miata at difficulty setting 0 or -1, turning on overtake at T2, and adjusting the pace so your driver takes the lead someplace between T8 and T11 on the second lap.

Following a car and not passing seems to be very bad for machine points. If your B-driver takes the lead too soon, then pit and allow a short lead before continuing with current tires and no fuel.
 
I'm on 100 posts per page, so I don't have a page 16... :D

But I can't tell whether it's B2 or D2 I need to do - and I HAVE done them again (3 times each) anyway. Hence my bewilderment... Cheers for the suggestion though.

Edit: Treed by Orion! :D

Thanks for the notes - and I'm curious why you've got a default reputation point level when you've done all this work on B-Spec points... Well, that's going to be changing soon, that's for sure.
 
I started with a pre-played game, at 8006/93/80/78, and had trouble getting 100 machine points at the Nurburgring, so I forgot about it for a while and went on (with 8425/99/84/83) doing Family Cups with the four classes.

I *think* the missing machine points appeared when I raced the following:

1303 stockMiataRS World/Family/SartheI -2 nq6th1st(B) s/c +14B+? none

I definitely had 100 machine points after that race (9182/100/91/91), but it might have been reached sooner without me noticing. And I eventually reached 10000/100/100/100 but not without some consternation since I'd apparently missed some points at the Super Speedway the first time through.

http://www.geocities.com/gt2toxs/gt/logs/gt4-game1.txt
 
Famine
I'm on 100 posts per page, so I don't have a page 16... :D

But I can't tell whether it's B2 or D2 I need to do - and I HAVE done them again (3 times each) anyway. Hence my bewilderment... Cheers for the suggestion though.

Edit: Treed by Orion! :D

Thanks for the notes - and I'm curious why you've got a default reputation point level when you've done all this work on B-Spec points... Well, that's going to be changing soon, that's for sure.
Click to expand...
A link to the post that deals directly with floating points can be found below. However, I've posted most of the new information fairly recently. If you read backwards until you find the post about the updated method from the original Japanese author you'll have all the new B-spec information. Also, I was learning along the way so it might be less confusing to have the final conclusions in mind when reading about the plan and testing.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showpost.php?p=2195484&postcount=312

A-1 and B-1. Your B-2 and D-2 scores are right on target. Where are you getting your numbers? I may need to edit something. Here is a link to a Google translated template to use to track your points.

http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.geocities.jp%2Fj8ba7yrg%2Fgt4%2F10000_t.html&langpair=de%7Cen&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&prev=%2Flanguage_tools
http://www.geocities.jp/j8ba7yrg/gt4/10000_t.html

Reputation level? Sorry, I never looked into many of the other features of the site. But as long as I'm earning extra credit - you might also want to take a look at my San Andreas (PC version) Record Book and Videos thread. It doesn't have many posts, but the video links help keep the page views ticking up.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=74811
 
Orion_SR
Your B-2 and D-2 scores are right on target. Where are you getting your numbers?
Click to expand...

Our Japanese friend's site... :D

His first run through had 586 points for A1, but still reached 7051/100/70/70. From this I was operating under the impression that the smaller numbers built independantly from the overall B-spec Skill Level, and since I have 596 points I'd assumed I was done there...

I'll give it a whirl tomorrow. Cheers.
 
Famine
Our Japanese friend's site... :D

His first run through had 586 points for A1, but still reached 7051/100/70/70. From this I was operating under the impression that the smaller numbers built independantly from the overall B-spec Skill Level, and since I have 596 points I'd assumed I was done there...

I'll give it a whirl tomorrow. Cheers.
Click to expand...
Oh, I see where those number came from now. You were using the numbers for just the floating points - without the track points from Nurburging mixed in. You need to include +12 for A-1, and +13 for B-1, C-1, and D-1. It might be possible to earn only the 7000 floatings by racing on Suzuka West instead of Nurburgring, but no one has reported trying it.

A-1: 586 +12 = 598 (598/12/6/5)
A-2: 737 (1335/25/14/13)
B-1: 901 +13 = 914 (2249/37/23/22)
B-2: 1077 (3326/50/35/33)
C-1: 1077 +13 = 1090 (4416/62/46/44)
C-2: 983 (5399/75/55/53)
D-1: 878 +13 = 891 (6290/87/63/62)
D-2: 761 (7051/100/70/70)

If the Lupo won't give up the points for A-1, then try the Micra '03 or Cappuccino tuning I suggested. The Miata + Supercharger is a particularly weak tuning. It's just enough to qualify for B-1 and has a tough time with some of the points. Try one of the alternate tunings if it doesn't spit out some new points after your first win.
 
The Lupo gave up a colossal 1/0/1/0. Woo! :D
I tried my MX-5 (it had lightweight stage 3, port polish and engine balancing, so it was a bit of a juggle getting the "right" power from it) and it got nothing at all. So I sold it and bought a new one, only supercharged it and it gave up 17/1/0/0.

So, by my calculations (because I've since moved much further on), I got:

A1 - 597/12/7/5
A2 - 737/13/8/8
B1 - 916/14/9/9
B2 - 1,077/12/11/11
C1 - 1,090/13/11/11
C2 - 983/12/10/9
D1 - 891/13/8/9
D2 - 761/12/6/8
For a total of
Floating Points - 7052/100/70/70

I'm currently on 7655/100/76/76, having completed the World Circuits with D, C and B class cars (except Twin Ring Motegi East with the D class. He just won't pass the final AI car, so I'm going to revisit that when he has more imposing stats).

Cheers for the help!
 
Famine

I'm currently on 7655/100/76/76, having completed the World Circuits with D, C and B class cars (except Twin Ring Motegi East with the D class. He just won't pass the final AI car, so I'm going to revisit that when he has more imposing stats).

Cheers for the help!
Click to expand...
Those are strange numbers coming out of that B-1 Miata. A +17 is too many for Nurburgring, and not enough for a new track. The key point is to max the machine skill at 100. Other methods are required to confirm the floating battle points. Due to the annoying fractions, it's hard to tell the difference between 1 or 2 points for the Lupo; but keep it in mind until later.

It appears that you are still missing a few points. I estimate that you have completed 51 tracks; or 47 new tracks since leaving the Ring. The expected score should be 7659/100/76/76; you appear to be missing 4 points.

Every new track during the sweeps should provide +12 and 27/29th points per track - the fractions are difficult to track. You should observe a regular pattern of 3 +12s, a bunch of +13s, and ending with a +14 on the 29th race. This is the only way to track missing fractions during the sweep. The fractions should resolve with a +14 in only a few more races at 7750/100/77/77.

I recommend stopping on track 55 (7711,+13) and backtracking to find any missing points before completing track 58 (7750,+14). You want to confirm the tracks completed so far with that +14 or you'll have no way to detect when fractions are dropped during the collection. If you don't get on track now, then when you finish with 999x/100/99/99 you will be faced with repeating 232 tracks with very little information about where to look first. It is far better to limit the mystery to the 58 tracks already completed.

There are some clues to missing points when the course and battle skill change. The skills should increment together on even hundreds. Skill levels before and after even hundreds (7700) provide information about which type of point to search for.

Also, your B-driver's skill will improve somewhat, but not dramatically above his current level. Looking for ways to tune the car better, or controlling the pace and passing opportunities, are much more practical methods for winning a difficult race.

BTW, the Miata default will collect the same track points as the Lupo, so you can use it for the sweeps if you prefer. The default Miata will finish quicker, has more even competition, and seems to be more reliable about collecting track points.
 
Orion_SR
Those are strange numbers coming out of that B-1 Miata. A +17 is too many for Nurburgring, and not enough for a new track. The key point is to max the machine skill at 100. Other methods are required to confirm the floating battle points. Due to the annoying fractions, it's hard to tell the difference between 1 or 2 points for the Lupo; but keep it in mind until later.

It appears that you are still missing a few points. I estimate that you have completed 51 tracks; or 47 new tracks since leaving the Ring. The expected score should be 7659/100/76/76; you appear to be missing 4 points.

Every new track during the sweeps should provide +12 and 27/29th points per track - the fractions are difficult to track. You should observe a regular pattern of 3 +12s, a bunch of +13s, and ending with a +14 on the 29th race. This is the only way to track missing fractions during the sweep. The fractions should resolve with a +14 in only a few more races at 7750/100/77/77.

I recommend stopping on track 55 (7711,+13) and backtracking to find any missing points before completing track 58 (7750,+14). You want to confirm the tracks completed so far with that +14 or you'll have no way to detect when fractions are dropped during the collection. If you don't get on track now, then when you finish with 999x/100/99/99 you will be faced with repeating 232 tracks with very little information about where to look first. It is far better to limit the mystery to the 58 tracks already completed.

There are some clues to missing points when the course and battle skill change. The skills should increment together on even hundreds. Skill levels before and after even hundreds (7700) provide information about which type of point to search for.

Also, your B-driver's skill will improve somewhat, but not dramatically above his current level. Looking for ways to tune the car better, or controlling the pace and passing opportunities, are much more practical methods for winning a difficult race.

BTW, the Miata default will collect the same track points as the Lupo, so you can use it for the sweeps if you prefer. The default Miata will finish quicker, has more even competition, and seems to be more reliable about collecting track points.
Click to expand...


I'm not doing it quite that way...

I'm doing each set of family cups (World Circuits then City Course then Original Courses) in some semblence of order. So I've completed, after the 'Ring

D - World Circuits
C - World Circuits
B - World Circuits
A - World Circuits
A - City Courses

I'm currently doing A - City Courses. I DID get a 10 for D/World/Super Speedway, and I'll revisit that next time I get into the Nissan (along with actually doing the Twin Ring East). So that's an estimated 3 missing and the Lupo, no matter what I did, didn't get the additional point to take it to 598, so that's presumably the other missing point.

I've attached my B-Spec Training Excel file. The last completed track as of this point in time is Tokyo R246 Reverse in the VW Lupo. I've highlighted every occasion in the 3000/0/30/30 run where I didn't get 13 points for a track or where I DID get a point for course/battle from a race. As you can see, the course skill IS currently moving as the hundreds pass, but the battle skill is one race out of step.
 
Famine
I'm not doing it quite that way...

I'm doing each set of family cups (World Circuits then City Course then Original Courses) in some semblence of order. So I've completed, after the 'Ring

... and the Lupo, no matter what I did, didn't get the additional point to take it to 598, so that's presumably the other missing point.
Click to expand...
Ouch! That Lupo is killing you. I had you at -4 points on track #51 (after the Nurb Point Recoup, row 109). By track 63 (row 123) you are -7 points from the target level. I suggest that you abandon that old Lupo. Use your new Miata without the supercharger and repeat what you've covered recently. It will collect the same points as the Lupo and probably do a much better job. The JP author used the Miata default to collect the class A track points in his latest collection - the one he tried to do perfectly.

It doesn't matter which order you complete the races. The tracks all hold the same number of points and the pattern of the collection should be the same. Your next milestone is at 8125/100/81/81, track #87, row 158. I suggest that you use the Miata default to complete the A/City Courses and then repeat everything completed so far to reach 8086 before continuing with the sweeps. Then the next three races should yield +12, +13, +14.

Collecting +12 points two or three times during a 29 race cycle is normal. Usually a +12 occurs one race after, and two races before a +14 (end of the cycle), and one other +12 occurs someplace in between. Missed fractions tend to even out the +12,+13,+14 ending sequence to +13,+13,+13. Missing whole points seems to change the sequence to +13,+12,+14.

So I'm looking at your recent data for the Lupo and see a +12,+14,+12 pattern. Those +12s don't bother me too much. A single +12 several races later would not be a concern, but anything else needs to be repeated. Also, you can't even trust that the +13 aren't hiding any points because fractions to small to be noticed can be left on the track. This is why I stress following the JP prediction table and checking every 29 races to make sure nothing is missed before continuing with more races.

Or, you could keep doing whatever you did to collect those miracle points with the B-1 Miata. You should not have been able to collect that many points using the Miata + supercharger on Nurburgring - that's supposed to be impossible. Are you sure about your data? No mistakes were made reading or transcribing the numbers? I may need to revise some theories if I can find a way to repeat the conditions. Was there anything special about that race? How was the race directed and how did it go?

Don't worry about the missing Lupo point. It can't be a machine point, and the floating battle points are usually collected long before the machine points trickle in. Also, the floating points can be collected from other tracks, not just Nurbergring, so it very likely that the A-1 floating points have been collected. If you end up one point short, then maybe look for an A-1 floating battle point with the Micra '03. I suggest using N1 tires and 100HP at level -2 against a Prius G and Prius TS. In my test game, that combination collected every A-1 floating battle point in a single race.

I've got you missing points from Super Speedway, not Montegi East. Super Speedway is known to be stubborn about giving up it's points. Even what I considered to be a perfect race was sometimes not enough to collect all the points. However, if you keep repeating that track, you should be able to collect all the points, even if you don't win. Also, you don't need to limit yourself to the D-1 350Z. You can install any upgrade and tune the car any way you want. As long as you keep the racing tires installed and don't dump on the ballast weight, that's a D class car. You can also use any other D class car you want to race on that track. Use anything more powerful than the 350Z and you'll be safely within the D class.
 
Curse the time difference!

I've completed the A/City Courses stage now, and gone back and filled in the D/World Circuits Super Speedway (+2) and Motegi East Section (+13) which were partial or missing. I'll add the new file to this post and let you peruse.


The data was entered from the screen as I completed each race, as I sat at work with the TV on my left shoulder and the laptop in front of me. I can guarantee no mistake... (famous last words!)
 

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