||Nicknamealguem's GT4 Photomode Gallery||

Ooooh. I really like the last one with the Mustang. Great blurs on the last two. The first one is kind of a cool abstract shot. They all look cool LdS!!
 
Thanks for the comments guys. 👍
_____________

My next update was inspired by my own theme in the 2.0 Competition. The image I submitted in the competition it’s not included in this update. All Images were edited after I done said image.
Hope you enjoy :D



​
 
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:eek:👍
That is all I have to say about your update. The "racing" shot looks good, but I think you could have done better with the radial blur (as it obviously distorted the background a bit) and the "touring" shot just seems a little odd (too sharp/jagged maybe?) But other than that the other shots are excellent.
 
Very very good update man. You've done well with this one.
-I love the composition the first shot has. but the blur around the Mazda is a bit too blurred around the back wheel. Other than that...fantasticly fantastical.
-The muscle car race is perfect imo. great cleaning.
-I like the attempt on the radial blur on the racing cars pic. It's just a little bit off. (the canvas needs to be a bit bigger or more centered?) But again, I admire the attempt. Its still a cool looking shot nonetheless.
-I can't way I'm a fan of the touring cars however. Too much noise for me. Can't say I like the contrast of the whole thing. It looks like the brightness was adjusted after the noise was added.
-The exotics though....wow...I am impressed with that one. The cars match the background much better than the shot entered in the 2.0 comp.
-and last but not least. The Tuners, awesome. I love it in every way.
You've done a great job overall with the blurs man. I loved this update.
I give you a great big 👍
 
Great boost on your skills LDS!! I don´t really know what to say, this update is quite something indeed. Of all shots 1st and last are my favs. The 3rd one is quite unique I gotta say, great work all over it:tup:

Congrats mate, GREAT work!!!
 
WTF!!! I'm very impressed man, these images are fantastic.

The blurs are very very well executed, I love a lot the curved background of the M3/R34 with the wide lens. The color combinatios are also very eyecandy.

I see the clean up and line rework is important, so I'm guessing you've spent a bunch of time with this.

Finally we've got a great update in the forum, and that's great!
 
^ Amen to that.
They are all very well done. Crisp and technically excellent. I think the best part of this update is your ability to show each rival racing with different style. Very lovely.

The Belisario remix is awesome too. The editing really push the quality to the max.
 
Thanks everyone for all the comments and support. I would quote every single comment and reply to them because you all deserve it.👍

This is a fantastic community, everyone giving tips, and hints and whatsoever, so I think it is time to leave my legacy.

No, I am not going to leave, what I mean by leaving my legacy, I mean, helping this community further by making a tutorial, a beginner tutorial, with a step by step on how to create in a little amount of time a beginner 2.0 shot (the type of shots you see in my gallery and in 2.0 competitions).

My objective with the tutorial is not for you to produce shots equal to mine, but it is a open horizon to some of the tools and filters present in Photoshop and the different way of using them. It will be a very extend Tutorial, because it will contain many explanations and tips in the middle of it to optimize the whole Photoshop experience. In the end of my tutorial, my objectives are for you to learn a serious of skills and knowledge essential and that can be applied to other type of images rather than GT4. So, stay tuned. :)
 
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Great gift you are giving LDS!!! I´m sure that your help will be most welcome:tup:

For a moment I thought you were leaving us...so don´t think about that, this community needs every single one of us

NTX:)
 
Thanks for all the support, and has promised, here it is:

Post Production, Photoshop editing step by step Tutorial Part 1

First of all thank you all that are still supporting this wonderful place that is Photomode. Has this place is “dying”, and I don’t intend to bring my or some of my techniques with me, I decided to share them with some of you, who may would like to produce a photo with beginner skills, in a small amount of time to post in your gallery or enter a 2.0 competition.

I’ll start by telling, that this techniques can be used in all kind of shots. After this tutorial (and if you are smart enough) you will be enlightened enough to explore other techniques, without maybe screwing your whole shot. This tutorial will focus on speed, but with the knowledge acquire, you can attain other effects. This may look like a long process, but with time, and practice, you will be doing this in less than 30 minutes. Note: A great 2.0 shot takes or can take allot more than 4 hours.

Let’s start with the tutorial. Note: For better first results, I advise that you start with the same set of shots that me. You can always use another shots, or similar shots, but you could possible, has well been stuck in some point of this Tutorial.

The pictures I chose were this:





Taking the pictures:

For this kind of picture, the only thing you have to worry about is the angle of it. Please remember that before taking the picture, you should visualize what you are going to do with it.

  • If you are going with a speed type of picture, you will have to take 3 pictures. The first and main picture will have the whole car in focus. The settings for the main picture are: F-22.0|Speed:1/4000”|+0.6 E.V.
    Then reduce only the speed to its minimum (1/60”) and focus on the wheels. The front first and then the rear one.
  • If you are going for an in frontal shot, or a backside shot, you will only need to take out one shot, minimize the speed (1/4000”) and maximize the F’S (F-1.8).

Tip: REAL PMC style shots can fasten up all the process, but sometimes cannot deliver the whole effect you are looking.

Now, up to Photoshop:

Open up Photoshop and open up the three pictures.

Go for the Focused Front spinning wheel and with the quick selection tool in a diameter close to the wheel diameter, select the spinning wheel.
With the wheel selected go to Layer>New>Layer via copy
You will realize that you have a new layer in you layer history. Just drag that layer to the main picture.
Do the same for the back wheel.

After both spinning rims are on the main picture, just adjust them until they cover the other non spinning rim. For that just use a simple free transform tool, that it is located in the Edit menu.
After they are fit, just merge all layers. Now the real fun will begin.

Let’s start with some first image adjustments:

1st: Crop the watermark.
2nd: Let’s change the levels (Image> Adjustements>Levels):

  • Levels is a simple and quick way to change the bright/contrast of the picture. You have a Black and white dot that adjust the brightness of the picture and a grey dot to adjust the contrast. What I always do is to first edit the white one, mainly because, GT4 pics are always to dark. I always put the white dot to the start of the map. Then, I adjust the back dot, just a little, to tighten the map just a little bit, and the grey dot is how the pic look better. I normally adjust it to give me more contrast.

4-10.jpg

​

3rd: Create a new fill adjustment layer, chose Hue/Saturation, and set the Lightness to +50. Then, change the bending mode of the new layer to Multiply.
5-1-1.jpg

4th: Select the Background layer, then Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur and set the radius to 4. Go to Edit>Fade Gaussian Blur and set the mode to Multiply and the Opacity to 25%.
6-3.jpg

5th: Go to Filter>Sharpen>Sharpen. Then go to Edit>Fade Sharpen and set the mode to Screen and the opacity to 80%.

Hint: Don’t be afraid to experiment other values on the fade sharpen/blur, but the main values go around that mark, a bit more or less, depending on the pictures.
After these minor but important adjustments, merge the two layers that you have.

Divorce part:


  • Separation Car/Background:
  • Select the polygonal lasso tool, zoom in the picture and carefully select the car
    7-2.jpg
  • After selecting the car, go to Layer>Duplicate Layer, and from the background copy, go to Layer>New>Layer via cut.
  • Hint: It is always important to separate the car from the background, no matter what picture you are editing.

    Car focus/Cleanup:
  • Make the car layer, the only visible layer to optimize your sight and focus on the car only.
  • First thing to do is a copy of the car layer (Hint: For better organization of your layers, just rename them). It will be in the car layer copy that we will do some things.
  • Now we are going to remake the car lines (door and hood lines). For that, just use the line tool, with colour set in pure black (#000000). After redoing the lines, just merge all line/shape layer only
    8-2.jpg
  • After merging them, select the eraser tool, with the opacity set to 50% and the flow to 100%, and erase those lines. Remember, just pass through the lines one time. After erasing the lines, go to Filter>Blur>Blur.
    8-1-1.jpg
  • After the lines, get back to the car layer copy, and with the smudge tool, and with its strength set to 10%, carefully just smudge some of the hard edges.
    Hint: Don’t be afraid to get it wrong, have always you fingers positioned in the keyboard undo shortcut (Ctrl+Alt+Z).
  • This car in particular don’t have many hard edges, but if you have or get one of those pictures, just try to hide them the best way possible.
Hint: Remember; don’t rush your work, if you see you can’t continue, just save the picture in a Photoshop format. Also (from personal experience) if you know you don’t have time to edit the pictures, just save it during the cleanup process, because it will be more difficult to do so in the background work, because, you will change ideas on what you should do with the background and what colours you want to focus on. So before, during or right after the cleanup process and before any change in the background, you can save the picture, turn off Photoshop, rest, go for your personal life and then come back to do the background.​

Smudgy car, time for some higher highlights:
  • Make a layer copy of the car layer copy, select the dodge tool and highlight some parts of the car, in a more reflective way. You can also use the burn tool to try to hide something.
    Hint: Again, you can exaggerate the highlights, because you are going to change the opacity of that layer.
  • Has I said, change the opacity of that layer to a value that happens to please your eyes (mine set to 30%) and merge both car copy layers.

Now it is time for the clean up. We will be doing a quick but effective (IMO) cleanup:

  • Make 3 layer copies of the Car Layer Copy;
  • Select the first copy of the copy and go to Filter>Blur>Surface Blur, and put the values to: Radius: 10; Threshold: 10;
  • Do the same thing for the other two layers, but with different values: Radius: 15; Threshold: 20, for the second and Radius: 20; Threshold 30 for the third one. You will get something pastel and jagged. Time to change opacity.
  • Opacity of 10% for the last copy of the copy, 50% for the second and 80% for the first copy of the copy. Hint: For each different picture, each different values can be applied.
    9-2-1.jpg
  • Merge the three layers, then go to Filter>Other> High Pass (for 2.0 competitions, use sharpen, although high pass is better). Then, go to Edit>Fade High Pass, and set the Mode to Overlay, and the opacity to 50%, but feel free to put other opacities. Sometimes I use a 100% opacity in the fade high pass because the car is too soft.
    9-3.jpg
  • We can and should at this time, join all car layers.

It is now time for some line highlight enhancement:

  • Make a new layer copy of the car layer (Ctrl+J) and select the polygonal lasso tool. You should do has the picture suggest, first make the selection right above the line, then go slightly to the line side (in this case, the left side), and go until you have it select (like in the picture).
    10-2.jpg
  • After selection, select the Dodge tool, and make a quick rampage in the selected part. Make the same thing for all the lines you drew or that you think it needs an enhancement. Hint: Have in mind the angle and where the light comes from, because those elements are important in this process.
  • After seeing the car in a 100% zoom, if you see that there are some highlights a little too bright, just change the layer opacity. In this one, I changed to 80%.

The duplicate layers come in hand in these situations. Always, make copies of layers before adventuring in the unknown, because you can always have the original if you screw something, and don’t have the trouble of cutting the car or another thing again.
You can now merge all car layers. The clean up process is complete.

Background

Let’s get back to the background copy and make another layer copy of the background copy (select Background copy and then press CTRL+J to copy it).
  • Now, we will be separating the Horizontal axis from the vertical axis, or in other words, the ground from the side skirts and the side skirts from the sky. With the polygonal lasso too, we will be cutting in the transition ground/side, and in the transition side skirt/sky. The part on the side skirt (the grids) where there are some sky visible will be this time considered has sky, but it not always happen like this.
  • Let’s start with the road. First a quick cleanup to the road. Muck similar to what we had done to the car, but in this time we will not use layers copy, at least, not for now. Select the road part, go to Filter>Surface Blur>R: 10; T: 10. Then Filter>Other>High Pass>2.0, Edit>Fade High Pass>Overlay and 100%. Repeat this process for all other background parts (side skirts and sky).
  • Now, lets remove the car shadow from the road. Select the polygonal lasso tool, select shadow (this one in a bit difficult because it is almost at the same colour has the rest of the road), then cut it from the road.
  • After this process, double click the background layer>it will open a box saying new layer, just click ok. Now go to Image> Canvas Size and set it both to 10 cm. After adding the canvas just uncheck the background layer, and let’s go to the Road layer. (This is just to not appear does weird Photoshop textures when you motion blur something in Photoshop).
  • In the road layer, go to Filter>Noise>Add Noise and set the amount of it to 25, Distribution: Gaussian; and select the monochromatic option. (Note: For each type/colour of road, different amount of noise. Darker Roads tend to have more noise applied than brighter roads).
  • Now make ten Layers copy of the road layer.
    12-1-1.jpg
    Go to the first road layer copy, and then go to Filter>Motion Blur and set the angle (for the case of this picture) -11 and the distance of 20 pixels. This is one of the most difficult parts to get it right. This part just relies on your eyes to get it right. What I recommend is to increase the speed to something more uniform like 200 pixels just to see the noise lines. Also, I don’t recommend unchecking the other ten road layers, because in that way you can see the real direction of the blur (check the preview option).
  • Now, some attention is necessary. You will be doing this same exact process for the other car layers copy, but with different values for the speed. So it will be: Car layer copy 2 – Speed: 40; Car copy 3 – Speed: 60; 4 – 80; 5 – 100; 6 – 150; 7 – 200; 8 – 250; 9 – 300; 10 – 400. I know, the final looks a little fugly, but guess what, opacity change: We will be changing the opacity ten by ten in a oppose form, so it will be, an opacity of 10% for the tenth layer copy, 20% for the ninth, 30% for the eighth, and you get the idea, until we reach the 100% opacity. After the opacities change, merge all road layers copy, except the original road layer and uncheck the original road layer.
  • Now the same for the side skirt. Add some noise, this time a little less noise and proceed has you had proceeded for the road. (Note: When dealing with the motion blur, the angle of the different parts can or not be the same has you used in other parts (in this case the road) in this case I used -8.) Hint: Follow the lines.

  • After finishing the side skirt, it is time for the sky.
  • Make a copy of the sky layer;
  • Go to Filter>Distort>Diffuse Glow and set the Grainess to 10; Glow amount: 1; Clear amount: 7
  • Add some more noise, set to 20
  • Then proceed has you did for the sky and side skirt. This time I set the angle to -6

Now, a little work in the car shadow, that have to make some company to the road orientation. Just add some Gaussian blur, set to 1 and tome motion blur set to 10, with the same angle has the road.
Go to the blurred road layer and add some uniform noise set to 2%

Marriage:

It is time to check all layers and organize them, being the lines layer always in front, then the car layer, car shadow, Blurred Road, Blurred Sky, Blurred side skirt, background copy and background
  • Merge all layers, then crop
  • Then go to Filter>Distort>Diffuse Glow and set the grainess to 2, the glow amount to 2 and the clear amount to 20.
Your shot is over or almost over.


Minor Adjustments – Optional

These are some of the minor adjustments I use for my pictures. I always use it to get a more eye candy colour of the shot.

  • Go to Image>Adjustments>Colour Balance, check the preserve luminosity box, and set the colours to suite more your eye. Hint: I always start first with the shadows, then go through the midtones and the highlights. Also, a good tip, is to roll the point from 100 cyan to 100 red, for example, to see what suits more your shot. For this one I used: +11|-14|+9 for shadows; -23|+15|+17 for midtones; +32|+2|-14 for highlights.
  • Now, let’s go to Image>Adjustments>Match Colour. This is where you can set the colour intensity. Much like the Saturation, but much better, because it always gives you a colour patter. Less than 100, you can go until you get a monotone, being it the tone of your picture (green, sepia, blue, etc.) and more than 100, you get a colour boost. I normally just use more than 100, when the less than 100 is at a blue variety of monotone. In the example back there, and if you put the same colour balance change values has me, you will got a colour blue monotone if you put the dot to less than 100, so I put it to 200. I also raise a bit the luminance, about 107.
    16-1.jpg
  • Now, go to the Hue and Saturation (Image>Adjustments>Hue and saturation and set the amount to -50.
    17-1.jpg
  • Finally, just to end, Flatten the layer (right click on the layer>Flatten the image), add a canvas at your taste and resize the picture to 1000 or 900 px to the width size, and up ya go.

    Final Work:



I hope that with this tutorial you have gained some skills, with the different tools and filters, has well as adjustments to use in your GT4 shots.

There will be a part 2, where I will do frond super blurred shots and perhaps some notion in the radial blur.

And maybe a part 3, where there will be featured different ways of doing the same thing and more crazy effects.

But, for now, you can get entertained with this.
 
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That's a mighty fine tutorial, LdS. 👍

It will surely help a lot of people getting started in 2.0 style shots. Most people don't even try them because they either just don't know how to or where to start, and/or because they think it's just a too long of a process.
Basically you've shown a variety of techniques that can be used, and you can get a pretty good 2.0 shot (minus the cleaning) in about 30 minutes.

I remember the shot that gave me the most work so far, the red Alfa GT, took me well about 12 hours, while the Prelude shot took about 6 or 7 and it was far more successfull.
So, it's not how long you take with the shots, it's what you do with them. 👍

Keep going strong, buddy. You've became one of the most active members in a short time, putting great shots out, always willing to help others and even running comps, major kudos to you. :bowdown:
 
Good tutorial for the beginners 👍

However, be carefull with the 1/60 stop shutter speed. Whether you'll be using this speed depends on the speed of your car. When I take shots, I tend to keep my shutter speed between 1/100 and 1/200 for optimal blur, yet sharp wheels with every piece of rim in focus. Another easy thing for colours; Just have your basic layer and duplicate that one two times. Now you should have three layers. Set the blending mode on the top one to soft light, and edit the levels on the second layer. This always gives a nice effect. To give it more softness, apply gaussian blur on the top layer, and an unsharp mask to the second one 👍

Is it me or is your blur a little bit off? I think it does not quite matches the sky. This is another tricky thing, because the fact could be that not all objects in the original picture lay on the same line. An example could be that a hill is behind the fence or something, that easily could destroy your blur. Always be carefull with where you set the blur point kids, because on slower computers, blurring is a pain in the ass...
 
Beerz
That's a mighty fine tutorial, LdS. 👍

It will surely help a lot of people getting started in 2.0 style shots. Most people don't even try them because they either just don't know how to or where to start, and/or because they think it's just a too long of a process.
Basically you've shown a variety of techniques that can be used, and you can get a pretty good 2.0 shot (minus the cleaning) in about 30 minutes.

I remember the shot that gave me the most work so far, the red Alfa GT, took me well about 12 hours, while the Prelude shot took about 6 or 7 and it was far more successfull.
Click to expand...

Thanks allot Beerz. I know I could get it better, but I don’t think that with this technique the cleanup is so bad. It is not has good has the other technique that the pros use, but it is quite good (for a fast technique).

So, it's not how long you take with the shots, it's what you do with them. 👍
Click to expand...

I couldn’t agree more.

Bram Turismo
Good tutorial for the beginners 👍

However, be carefull with the 1/60 stop shutter speed. Whether you'll be using this speed depends on the speed of your car. When I take shots, I tend to keep my shutter speed between 1/100 and 1/200 for optimal blur, yet sharp wheels with every piece of rim in focus. 👍

Thanks for pointing that out. Although I normally get better results with 1/60 shutter speed, sometimes a 1/100 or a 1/200 can get more realistic results. But sometimes, I just don’t feel the same vibe has the 1/60

Is it me or is your blur a little bit off? I think it does not quite matches the sky. This is another tricky thing, because the fact could be that not all objects in the original picture lay on the same line. An example could be that a hill is behind the fence or something, that easily could destroy your blur. Always be carefull with where you set the blur point kids, because on slower computers, blurring is a pain in the ass...
Click to expand...

It is a bit of and I admit I have made a mistake in my picture and it is directly relation with the sky/lines, but it is sort of corrected on my tutorial. I was just too lazy to correct it in the main picture. :dopey:

Also, and again, thanks for the comments and tips gaved 👍, you guys are great. 👍 👍 👍
 
Your tutorial is exactly what I make in my shots (sometimes of course I skip a few parts).
But let me say the minor options part, I didn´t use that...but I´m starting to use it from now on. Like you said, a bit of eye candy color does not hurt. I usually don´t touch the color intensity...but I see that gives great results combined with HUE/Saturation. Thanks 👍

To finish I just want to reenforce what you said mate, to take speed photos, always take 3 pictures!!! Its the start to make no mistakes taking those kind of shots.

Great tutorial, looking forward to see the next one.
NTX
 
Nice tutorial LDS 👍
I think it is not necessary to blur so many layers. All you need to do is to enlarge the canvas size (e.g. 1500x1200) before applying the blur, then duplicate the blurred layer 20+ times. Why? All the semi-transparent edges will become full opacity. Final step is to reduce the canvas size to original size (1280x960)
 
NTX1982
Your tutorial is exactly what I make in my shots (sometimes of course I skip a few parts).
But let me say the minor options part, I didn´t use that...but I´m starting to use it from now on. Like you said, a bit of eye candy color does not hurt. I usually don´t touch the color intensity...but I see that gives great results combined with HUE/Saturation. Thanks 👍

To finish I just want to reenforce what you said mate, to take speed photos, always take 3 pictures!!! Its the start to make no mistakes taking those kind of shots.

Great tutorial, looking forward to see the next one.
NTX
Click to expand...

Thanks NTX. I’ll start part 2 once I finish my Tournament Entry

alexwrc
Nice to see your workflow. By the way... Am I wrong or did you use ten blurs for the tarmac?
Click to expand...

Yep, I used it, but I normally don't use more than 6.

franz
Nice tutorial LDS 👍
I think it is not necessary to blur so many layers. All you need to do is to enlarge the canvas size (e.g. 1500x1200) before applying the blur, then duplicate the blurred layer 20+ times. Why? All the semi-transparent edges will become full opacity. Final step is to reduce the canvas size to original size (1280x960)
Click to expand...

What do you know? I am always learning. Never thought of that. Thanks for the info.

jgda9rs
this is such a big pain in the arse to do in real photographs...grrr!!
Click to expand...

For Real Photography, I just do the minor image adjustments.
 
Such a long time since my last update, but guess what, I have a brand new update finished, but for now, I will release some of my competition entries, this time, the Ad Competition, that rune for one week. Stay tuned for more updates ;)

​
 
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LIES!! The amuse s2000 has to be the most uncomfortable car anyone will ever ride in in a public road! :lol:

sorry i can't help it. great work on that one though!! love the contrast and the fonts go well with the photo, only problem is the typo error with the spelling of comfort. but i guess it was so nice not to notice it 👍 great presentation as well. so shiny and elegant. well done mate!
 
Thanks for the comments guys, they are always welcome.

jgda, I didn’t know the s2000 was that uncomfortable, but I think the add sold out pretty well :D

S-Line, glad you liked the tutorial, I would like that someone would try it, in another picture and send me the results, I would like to hear that feedback 👍
_______________________

An update before my real update. Just to throw my previous H2H Competition Entries.

Head to Head was a great competition where there was given two opposite themes, line Old vs. New. You had to chose one of the themes in order to compete in the poll with people who chosen the same theme has you. The winner of each poll would go through a final poll that would decide the winner.
So here they are:


Enjoy
 
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Indeed, good memories!! You have here some beautiful shots!! The Amuse...no words needed, the shot speaks for itself!!
On H2H pics, all are great, but my favourite is the Honda pic, colors, camera, cleaness...you name it:) The Solo VS Group pic is also worth a mention, look at what you have done there...👍
LDS you really made a name for yourself here, making you one of the pro´s around here, congrats:D
 
i remember those really well! and yes, i find the s2k very uncomfortable ! specially tuned, and that amuse s2000 must be riding on bone jarring 16k spring rate... very bumpy! the last time i hopped in an s2k i got stuck and cant get out!
 

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