Minolta 88C-V Tune

  • Thread starter rk
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rk

rk

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Here by popular demand, this tune did 1.03 at Deep Forest with my mediocre driving skills on racing hard tires. The car tuned has all available enhancements including frame stiffner. The beauty is that most settings aside from brakes and suspension are stock (or off like asm).
brakes 3/5
springs 15.7/15.7
height 70/77
bound 8/7
rebound 9/8
camber 2.6/1.6
stabilizer 2/3
asm/o 0
asm/u 0
tcs 3
downforce 63/88
lsd 10/40/20
enjoy
 
Cheers Mate, Will Make Sure i get these tried out, Did U Cure the tire wear or not?
Could u try these On trail mountain and just tell me time, only a lap , i will do when i get back, i just want a comparison with some other laps. ive done 👍
 
tm2003
Cheers Mate, Will Make Sure i get these tried out, Did U Cure the tire wear or not?
Could u try these On trail mountain and just tell me time, only a lap , i will do when i get back, i just want a comparison with some other laps. ive done 👍
Click to expand...
1'16.396 First lap, racing hards.
 
I really haven't found a tuning I like on this car for short tracks. I don't think it has very realistic handling even on soft/soft. I've tried everything but I'm having real trouble getting the push/understeer out of the car. Anyone else had problems tuning for shorter tracks ?
 
Dp2boy
I really haven't found a tuning I like on this car for short tracks. I don't think it has very realistic handling even on soft/soft. I've tried everything but I'm having real trouble getting the push/understeer out of the car. Anyone else had problems tuning for shorter tracks ?
Click to expand...

Sometimes i like to just add a bit more wing to the front, also maybe adjusting the weight distribution and ballast (ah the beauty of GT4 tunning) is usually my best way to get rid of the understeer your experiencing, besides the obvious toe angles and spring rates.
 
Dp2boy
I really haven't found a tuning I like on this car for short tracks. I don't think it has very realistic handling even on soft/soft. I've tried everything but I'm having real trouble getting the push/understeer out of the car. Anyone else had problems tuning for shorter tracks ?
Click to expand...
Are you saying you don't like the tune or are you saying Deep Forest, where this tune was established, isn't short enough?
 
I have a fairly decent setup for long fast tracks - did a 5.02.307 at Nurburgring, but its still a handfull. The hardest thing is to get it to do anything you tell it over 230 mph, it just jumps around. The main problem is braking from high speed, it swaps ends.

All is stock unless listed here

ride height 68
brakes 6/2
camber 3.2, 2.1
toe f-1, r +2
full downforce
springs 16.3, 16.8
nitrious 53
super soft tires
 
I managed to get rid of the flying tail problem by loosening the rear stabilizer bars. Tire wear requires some tweaking to the rear suspension as well.

This is my setup, works pretty well on most tracks and doesn't have any extreme problems unless you really push it around at high speeds on uneven track

Brakes: 10f/8r

Suspension: Front/Rear
Springs: 17.0/15.0
Height: 60/60
bound: 6/6
rebound: 6/4
camber: 1.0/0.5 (I've found that higher cambers generally hurt performance, especially in these brake first turn later cars)
toe: 0/0
stabilizers: 5/2

LSD: 11/40/16

Full downforce, and alter the gearbox as the track requires. Don't bother with stage 4 turbo.

More importantly, never use superhards; they've got bad balding characteristics. Better to go with RM/RH. That combination will give you the same pit times as the AI, and wears evenly (depending on the track) with the above settings.

Don't forget to refresh the body regularly either!

Doesn't do nearly as well as a 5:02 lap at nurburgring though, at least with my driving skills...

edit: 1'15.653 at trial mountain on the second lap (took the first turn too fast and flew on the first lap)
 
fulcrumdriver
edit: 1'15.653 at trial mountain on the second lap (took the first turn too fast and flew on the first lap)
Click to expand...
When I quote a lap time, I inlude the lap # if it implies the state of the tires. I do all my tuning at Deep Forest because the road surface helps develop a tune, something the rest of you tune posters might want to try. The procedure is detailed in my recent post titled "Noober Tuner Guide." I tested the car one time, by request at Trial and posted the results. If, Fulcrumdriver, you want a time by which to compare your own settings, perhaps, 1'03.3 at Deep Forest will do, again remember to run it on cold hards. The tune I posted does not shake, shimmy, swap ends, or require any special early braking. You don't have to leave off hp, lose downforce or any other performance feature, you can even turn your nitrous all the way up.
 
aarque, I tried your tuning on soft/hard at a couple of different tracks (Hong Kong for one) and the car felt as though it was on ice. Could hard/hard make much of a difference ? I'm going to refresh the chassis and try to loosen up the rear stabilizer bar to see if anything changes. Otherwise something weird is going here although on longer tracks with plenty of braking room the car is bearable.
 
Dp2boy
aarque, I tried your tuning on soft/hard at a couple of different tracks (Hong Kong for one) and the car felt as though it was on ice. Could hard/hard make much of a difference ? I'm going to refresh the chassis and try to loosen up the rear stabilizer bar to see if anything changes. Otherwise something weird is going here although on longer tracks with plenty of braking room the car is bearable.
Click to expand...
Running mixed tires on cars tuned for matched tires has been disasterous for me in GT4. An old trick of using a harder tire to compensate for wear, then waiting for them both to be in the green, no longer works. The tires basically grip the same but as a compound becomes harder, it more easily becomes over or understeery. You must tune the car to compensate, so you must always run mixed or always run matched. You really should just use the hards. If you had to drive the car AT ALL in original tune, you will not mind the hards at all, to is SOOO much more driveable.
By the way, I wanted to say I love the turn signals on this car, I mean, wtf?
 
fulcrumdriver
I managed to get rid of the flying tail problem by loosening the rear stabilizer bars. Tire wear requires some tweaking to the rear suspension as well.

This is my setup, works pretty well on most tracks and doesn't have any extreme problems unless you really push it around at high speeds on uneven track

Brakes: 10f/8r

Suspension: Front/Rear
Springs: 17.0/15.0
Height: 60/60
bound: 6/6
rebound: 6/4
camber: 1.0/0.5 (I've found that higher cambers generally hurt performance, especially in these brake first turn later cars)
toe: 0/0
stabilizers: 5/2

LSD: 11/40/16

Full downforce, and alter the gearbox as the track requires. Don't bother with stage 4 turbo.

More importantly, never use superhards; they've got bad balding characteristics. Better to go with RM/RH. That combination will give you the same pit times as the AI, and wears evenly (depending on the track) with the above settings.

Don't forget to refresh the body regularly either!

Doesn't do nearly as well as a 5:02 lap at nurburgring though, at least with my driving skills...

edit: 1'15.653 at trial mountain on the second lap (took the first turn too fast and flew on the first lap)
Click to expand...


Awsome settings fulcrumdriver!!!! I just won the Formula GT World Championship with your tuning configuration. The only thing I changed was the gearbox set up for each individual race. You're right about not using the stage 4 turbo.
Again, nice job with tune! :)

Oh by the way, I ran a 1:10.323 (no NOS) on Trial Mountain on the first lap with your settings. That was with the gearbox set to the default value. :D
 
Fulcrumdriver & Rektek, you both mentioned gear box changes for specific races. Could you please elaborate on what those changes were. Especially for that mother scratching Rome course!
 
CobraMustang
Fulcrumdriver & Rektek, you both mentioned gear box changes for specific races. Could you please elaborate on what those changes were. Especially for that mother scratching Rome course!
Click to expand...

I think they mean the auto setting, the best way i find to do this is do a couple of practise runs and aim to have your car maxing out just at the breaking point on the longest straight, this way you have the best possible acceleration out of the corners.
 
CobraMustang
Fulcrumdriver & Rektek, you both mentioned gear box changes for specific races. Could you please elaborate on what those changes were. Especially for that mother scratching Rome course!
Click to expand...

It depends on your driving style. How do you brake when entering a corner? How do you accelerate out of the corner? I usually do practice runs until i find the auto setting that maxs out on the straight away before i start to brake. When I find the right setting, I ususally go down 1 or 2 more clicks. Then I will adjust the 6th gear ratio down (to the left). If you look at the graph while you are tuning 6th gear, I usually trying to line up the 5th and 6th gear starting points until they are horizontal to each other.
 
Try this....

1989 Minolta Toyota 88C-V Race Car
------------------------------------------
For once, I did not add a thing to this car, seeing as how it has basically everything and I didn't feel a bigger turbo was necessary. All I did was the preliminary power-boosting oil change. I forgot to write down the power but I think it was about 950 or so.

F/R
Spring 15.0/18.3
Height 58/60
Bound 2/3
Rebound 7/9
Camber 2.0/1.0
Toe -1/0
Stab 2/7
Brakes 12/20

Transmission auto setting 13

LSD---
Initial 17
Accel. 55
Decel. 25

NO ASM, TCS=1

NOTES: Excellent straight-line stablity and nice cornering ability. The car also has a very unique exhaust note that I found enjoyable. Try these settings out and tell me how they worked for you. Have fun.

*(Whenever I say fully modified, I mean everything on the car is maxed out unless otherwise noted. This includes the roll cage, all stages of lightening, and the best of each particular piece of hardware be it turbocharger, clutch, etc...)
 
What was this setup like on your rear tyres? It looks like a good qualifying setup or sprint, and I admit I have not driven with them yet ( stuck at work, on lunch hour looking for inspiration ) but it looks like a lot of the energy is going to go through the rears.

Come to mention it, what tyres did you use!?!

JW31
Try this....

1989 Minolta Toyota 88C-V Race Car
------------------------------------------
For once, I did not add a thing to this car, seeing as how it has basically everything and I didn't feel a bigger turbo was necessary. All I did was the preliminary power-boosting oil change. I forgot to write down the power but I think it was about 950 or so.

F/R
Spring 15.0/18.3
Height 58/60
Bound 2/3
Rebound 7/9
Camber 2.0/1.0
Toe -1/0
Stab 2/7
Brakes 12/20

Transmission auto setting 13

LSD---
Initial 17
Accel. 55
Decel. 25

NO ASM, TCS=1
Click to expand...
 
cango_uk
What was this setup like on your rear tyres? It looks like a good qualifying setup or sprint, and I admit I have not driven with them yet ( stuck at work, on lunch hour looking for inspiration ) but it looks like a lot of the energy is going to go through the rears.

Come to mention it, what tyres did you use!?!
Click to expand...
let's see you were asking about my tune? The one I started this thread with and that is still my fastest car 2 weeks later? Well I used racing hards, just as it says in the write-up...
but perhaps you might prefer a milder tune, one which does not utilize all the available improvements, which is, in fact, *cough* slower; fine. let's see what you got:
Spring 15.0/18.3
Hmmm, kind of rear stiff, well thats one way to compensate for the rear unweighting the drive tire when it bottoms, but how do you keep from skidding through the esses?
Height 58/60
Nice, maybe this way, the front and rear will bottom evenly
Bound 2/3
always liked low compression settings "let that wheel clear the bump"
Rebound 7/9
Oh oh, these very stable rebound settings are so different from the bound settings that the car is likely to lose control at the slightest upset
Camber 2.0/1.0
Far, far too conservative...
Toe -1/0
Um, this might help even the tire wear...
Stab 2/7
Same thing as the rebound/bound setting, when the car hits a disturbance, the front will try to be responsive, the rear will try to be stable and the driver will feel like the car is trying to tear itself in half
Brakes 12/20
This would probably be fine if you were using a pedal. And if the poster of these settings is using a button controller, it is clear he did not try the brake settings posted above (in the post that started this thread) which are even a bit high for my button mashing tastes...
Transmission auto setting 13
Presumably to invoke the luck of the numbers

enjoy
I work very hard at my tunes and am very proud of their abilities. I would like to know how they can be improved, I do not enjoy people just shuffling their "favorite" tunes into this thread. If it is better, say so and WHY (you have a steering wheel tune, you have a endurance tune, you have a stabler tune, etc), if indeed it is, I will switch MY car to it. Otherwise, people come to a thread and find 27 different tunes, no comparisons, how do they know which to use?
 
Aarque, I was simply curious to know what it was like on your tyres. If I could trouble you, could you let B-Spec bob run a few stints at Sarthe 2, and tell me how long it took to mince his tyres. I was certainly not questioning the valitity of your set up, having been playing for only 2 weeks and after having over a year and a half away from GT3. Why do you think I am on this forum? to get set up ideas and tips!
 
cango_uk
Aarque, I was simply curious to know what it was like on your tyres. If I could trouble you, could you let B-Spec bob run a few stints at Sarthe 2, and tell me how long it took to mince his tyres. I was certainly not questioning the valitity of your set up, having been playing for only 2 weeks and after having over a year and a half away from GT3. Why do you think I am on this forum? to get set up ideas and tips!
Click to expand...
Please understand I was using your request to make a statement to the unpetitioned posters, especially Rustye and Fulcrumdriver. What would posses anyone to post a less capable tune, unbidden, after the thread was started, except to confuse future seekers...? Oh, the first tune is stable, yes, but mine "swaps ends" quicker... wtf?
Then you got freakin Rektek, who apparently does not care that Fulcrumdrivers 17kgt/mm rear spring setting has reduced, not eliminated, the Minolta's chassis bottoming problem by preventing proper suspension travel...
OK, to respond to your question, Bob has no problem outlasting the R92CP and Sauber Mercedes which are his chief competition using racing hards, he is usually a comfortable full pit ahead (about 25sec) of the pack by the 2nd or 3rd stop. Also, please re-check the original tune because I just updated it, hope it works well for you, let me know...
 
Games are ment to be fun. Not hard work, not striving for perfect, but fun. I do enough perfection searching at work.

I tested your settings. I liked them for a short sprint, but I could not keep up the level of concentration needed with them to do any distance. So, for your info, they have become my qualifying settings, thanks a lot.

For doing distance, I like these, which I have derived, and you will no doubt tear to pieces and laugh at. As long as you get a good, long laugh out of them, then thats all well and good. Personally, I find these far more forgiving and easy to get on with. Not ultimately quick, but easy to drive, lap after lap...on RH/RSH

All listed Front / Rear respectively where applicable

Brakes 9 / 5
Springs 13 / 9.5
Ride 67 / 75
Bounce 5 / 8
Bound 6 / 9
Camber 3.0 / 1.5
Toe 1 / -1
Stabliser 4 / 2

Ballast 30 at -50

Downforce 63 / 83

LSD init 25 / acc 55 / dec 14

Driver Aids Ov 8 / Un 4 / TCS 2

Use the transmission trick plus a little tuning to get
1st 2.900
2nd 2.100
3rd 1.650
4th 1.330
5th 1.080
6th 0.880
Final 3.500
 
cango_uk
Games are ment to be fun. Not hard work, not striving for perfect, but fun. I do enough perfection searching at work.

0
Click to expand...
It's all good. Just so long as you say, "The set-up I am posting is better for this reason (fill in your choice of reason)." I think you will find that as you progress, you may come to agree that the asm system robs precious feedback, like soft sidewalled tires and ultimately offers the illusion of speed. Besides, the tunes I usually get a good laugh from are the so called expert tunes- when you already know why something won't work that way; and my own early ones (anything over 2 weeks old) for the same reason.:dopey:
I wrote and occasionally update a short walk through called "Noober Tuner Guide" you could find with a text search, it might explain a few things and I think you might really benefit from the section about the replay ghost as tuning aid.
 
aarque
"Noober Tuner Guide".
Click to expand...

Thats exactly what I needed. I have read through all the principals, but knowing where and how to start is the hard bit. The initial start area is a bit hit and miss, but using the strategy shown, it should , in theory not matter where you start, it will just take you longer.

I am going to leave that Minolta to you and others, since nearly everyone tunes the racing cars, i am going to see what I can do with an old favourite. I'll be in touch. Thanks again.
 
Thanks for the tuning setup Aarque. I really appreciate it. I tuned up my Minolta and it works great. It took a little while getting used to, but once that was done it was great. Great saver on the tires. I've been using a decent strategy in 1 pit races where the pit happens on say lap 12 in a 20 lap race. I'll start the race with the Hard tires, at lap 12, I'll take no fuel and throw on my mediums. Its worked wonders. I was behind 15 secs in a race going into lap 11 (out of 18). Pulled my strategy, and by lap 16 I caught up to the leader, and won just as my tires got worn out.

👍 👍 thanks again
 
cango_uk
Brakes 9 / 5
Springs 13 / 9.5
Ride 67 / 75
Bounce 5 / 8
Bound 6 / 9
Camber 3.0 / 1.5
Toe 1 / -1
Stabliser 4 / 2

Ballast 30 at -50

Downforce 63 / 83

LSD init 25 / acc 55 / dec 14

Driver Aids Ov 8 / Un 4 / TCS 2

Use the transmission trick plus a little tuning to get
1st 2.900
2nd 2.100
3rd 1.650
4th 1.330
5th 1.080
6th 0.880
Final 3.500
Click to expand...

This is good , thanks a lot , now i can drive this beast .... 👍
 
Hummm...


I think GT4 at the most time an amazing game and so easy! I dont spend so much time tunning... even if i had time!

I use the basic.

Suspension: Depending on the track. Little tighter in the front. Soften in El Capitain and Street tracks.

Bound/ Rebound: 4/8

Stabilizer: Depend how the car wear tires.

And go on...

I love GT4, but i do not find that of a challenging game where you have to find precision in tunning.

As i am finishing the game, maybe i will start to "play" tunning the cars and making best times on tracks.

Professional Racing: win Endurance Race in "EL CAPITAIN" and the prize is a Minolta Toyota V88 c car. Very fast but tricky... Game is over.






Rustye
I have a fairly decent setup for long fast tracks - did a 5.02.307 at Nurburgring, but its still a handfull. The hardest thing is to get it to do anything you tell it over 230 mph, it just jumps around. The main problem is braking from high speed, it swaps ends.

All is stock unless listed here

ride height 68
brakes 6/2
camber 3.2, 2.1
toe f-1, r +2
full downforce
springs 16.3, 16.8
nitrious 53
super soft tires
Click to expand...
 

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