Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI TME RS

Here is a good setting on my evo i use for going round the nurburgring try it out and say what you think of it and if i should improve on anything

Car:
Mitsubishi Evolution 6 Tommi Makkinen Edition RS(usualy foun in the USED CARS LATE '90's section)

PARTS TO BUY:
TYRES:
Racing/Soft F/R
BRAKES:
Racing and Brake controller
ENGINE:
Sports computer
TURBO:
Original
INTERCOOLER:
Racing:Large
SUSPENSION:
Racing:Stage 3
DRIVETRAIN:
Fully customisable gearbox
Triple plate clutch
Racing flywheel
Carbon drivetrain
1.5 way Limited slip diff(LSD)
OTHER:
Weight reduction: Stage 3
VCD
GT AUTO Spoiler (NO PREFFRENCE)
It should have round about 511bhp if it is lower you probably didn't change the oil i recommend doing it it helps

SETTINGS:
BRAKE BALANCE:
Front=5 Rear=4
SUSPENSION:
Spring Rate: Front=4.8 Rear=3.8
Ride Height: Front=120 Rear=121
Damper (Bounce Side): Front=7 Rear=7
Damper (Rebound Side): Front=9 Rear=9
Camber Angle: Front=2.3 Rear=1.3
Toe Angle: Front=0 Rear=0
Stabiliser: Front=5 Rear=5
TRANSMITION:
Final:4.529
Auto Setting:8
DOWNFORCE:
Front=24 Rear=24
VCD:
VCD:37
AIDS:
ASM Oversteer:1
ASM Understeer:10
TCS:1

Still needs a very minor tweek but the car still goes like a rocket and it huggs the corners ( Not the barrier )

Here's a pic of my beloved Evo:
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/2402/img0239oj7.jpg

I dont know what you want to achieve with this setup but here goes:

I had 2 laps with my own non-nurburgring setup (here, the Ver.2 version: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showpost.php?p=2041364&postcount=13 ), on R-hard tyres and 7 laps with your setup; 2 laps with the R-soft tyres and 5 with R-hard and TCS turned off. I can see why you might have loads of fun with your setup but for me there are loads of problems. The biggest is your reliance on AIDS and tyres rather than the chasis first and then tyres and AIDS if you really need them.

As you may have figured, firstly the TCS was a big hindrance even though only set at 1. Turning it off means more skill is required to control the car but it also gave faster times and more fun (depending on what your after). Turning it off also created more wheelspin at the rear on exiting corners which slows the car down. Good sideways fun is created by the ASM but I didnt find it helpful in fast yet tight corners. Also the LSD did not gel with the ASM oversteer IMHO. They unbalanced the car too much causing it to lose momentum rather than carry it...which can be fun and fast. I can see how R-soft tyres maintain grip levels but R-hards highlight where gains can be made to maximise the tyres effects.

The suspension while good for riding even the high curbs could have benefited from some experimentation on the dampers. Way too high and hard for me and also lacking a balance between the front and rear of the car that lets you feel where there is grip and where there is none. These things help with confidence in the car for me. I'll disregard toe but I think the stabilisers could have definitely been used to create cornering ability instead of just whacking on loads of ASM like you did.

I thought I might have made a mistake at first but your transmission tops out at about 150 in 6th. I bounced of the limiter halfway round the track! This brought the times down a lot adding to the result which was your setup being 6 seconds behind mine which (being a non-ring setup with 491bhp) topped out at 170. The gears need a lot of consideration IMHO. Look at how many times you find yourself in 1 or 2nd gear on a lap. How much do you use 3,4,5 and 6? I personally would put 1 and 2 very long, 3,4 and 5 would be tight and well within each others powerband with 6 being a long gear that takes you across the long straights....okay maybe not the mega-long home straight but defo all the others.

The downforce along with the suspension may have benefited from a little jiggling of the balance to help control the rear through high speed corners instead of the TCS which cuts power to achieve the same result.

Hope that helps!

I agree with Zefff on your setup. I tried it for one lap and was having trouble with it. Just like Zefff said the first thing you need to work on is getting used to driving without the aids which ruin front and all wheel drive cars. Once you can drive without aids you will be faster. Otherwise I noticed that your setup seems to be geared towards understeer in the corners. A little bit of rotation on a AWD car goes a long way to increase the entry and exit speed of the car in corners. But for now work on your driving and developing your driving style.

I know i'm not that good with understanding the chassis setup and i do agree that the setting needs some more tweeks could some one tell me the basics of the chassis and what to tune and how much i don't really want to **** the suspension settins up or anything like that could any of you recomend me a setup for the chassis on this car 👍

An easy way to find settings for any car is to look at the current settings guides all over the place or just use that handy search feature.

However I will post the settings that I have on my RS for you to try out. If this setting does not work for ya then just PM me or just reply what you want done in another post.

Brake Balance
Fr: 6 Rr: 12
Ride HeightFr:
full low Rr: full low +4mm
Spring Rates
Fr: 11.5 Rr: 5.5
Dampers
Fr: Bound 5 Rebound 10 Rr: Bound 3 Rebound 7
Camber
Fr: 4 Rr:1.5
Toe
Fr: 0 Rr:0
Anti-Roll Bars
Fr:1 Rr:7

-Set Trans to Default
-Set Final to highest ratio (5.5 or 6.0)
-Set auto setting to lowest number 1
-then re-adjust final to whatever the top speed you want ( about 170mph or 3.5-3.75)
-then make your first and second gear as high as they can go
-continue by making your fifth and sixth gear as low as they can go
-you will then have to adjust the 4th gear on the graph to make it in the middle of third and fifth.
(don't touch auto set-setting after the third step or ratios will change. Only adjust with Final Drive.)

-Take off all driver assists

-Set downforce to 30 and 30

-Set ACD to 10

-Apply full customize differential
set Fr. deaccel to 5
set Fr. accel to 20

-Run R3 tires Fr. and R2 tires Rr.

This setup will most likely feel very unstable to you, but that is my current setup for the ring in a lot of my evos. They clock around 6:15 in this trim. If you need adjustments post or pm me

That's a great setup a little understeer but fine otherwise 👍 but there's still one thing on my evo i can't sort out it's a little twitchy going over bumps especialy on the ring could you please give me some suggestions with that but the handeling is great now thanks:tup:

I edited the top post to show the rest of my setup which may be helpful to your problem.

Assuming that you followed my setup exactly:
-I would raise the ride height about 7-10mm fr and back evenly
-lower the damper's bound and rebound in front to equal the rear
-lower the spring rates by 1.5 each

If you don't mind me asking whats ACD?

Cloud_9

If you don't mind me asking whats ACD?

Click to expand...

Active Central Differential (which on the PAL version is known as VCD), it allows you to split the front/rear torque, I can only assume this is what Stig Beater is referring to.

The value set indicates the % of drive sent to the front wheels, so 10 would be 10% to the front, while 50 would give a 50/50 split.

Regards

Scaff

ah explains it i have the PAL version thanks!👍

stig_beater

Brake Balance
Fr: 6 Rr: 12
Ride HeightFr:
full low Rr: full low +4mm
Spring Rates
Fr: 11.5 Rr: 5.5
Dampers
Fr: Bound 5 Rebound 10 Rr: Bound 3 Rebound 7
Camber
Fr: 4 Rr:1.5
Toe
Fr: 0 Rr:0
Anti-Roll Bars
Fr:1 Rr:7

-Set Trans to Default
-Set Final to highest ratio (5.5 or 6.0)
-Set auto setting to lowest number 1
-then re-adjust final to whatever the top speed you want ( about 170mph or 3.5-3.75)
-then make your first and second gear as high as they can go
-continue by making your fifth and sixth gear as low as they can go
-you will then have to adjust the 4th gear on the graph to make it in the middle of third and fifth.
(don't touch auto set-setting after the third step or ratios will change. Only adjust with Final Drive.)

-Take off all driver assists

-Set downforce to 30 and 30

-Set ACD to 10

-Apply full customize differential
set Fr. deaccel to 5
set Fr. accel to 20

-Run R3 tires Fr. and R2 tires Rr.

Click to expand...

WOW! Does look like an extreme but fun setup. I'll try it out

I set up my cars a lot like stig_beater does. However this setup is a little different from mine so I'll give it a try.

Its good! It does drag its arse around corners though and you have to be careful on the brakes. The only other thing is it can be unpredictable. Its definitely faster than my setup though if speed is your thing.

Ye i agree it's a great setup a bit twitchy but i improved my time by a masive 32secs!

I have my setups very similar to those of stig_beater. I have seen a couple of his on here. I use these setups for all out fast laps and vary them for comfort and drive ease if needed. However, when you use a setup like this one you should run a race and notice the decrease in front tire wear that comes with that new balance of speed( FF and AWD normally wear the fronts out long before the rears). Once you learn to drive with these setups and be agressive with them you can pound some serious lap times down consistantly! You can also run a variety of racing lines making passing easier and if you are good enough you can choose between grip type driving or more of a drift type driving style.

eg6_dude

I have my setups very similar to those of stig_beater.

Click to expand...

Yeah, you said.

eg6_dude

I set up my cars a lot like stig_beater does.

Click to expand...

sorry about that. I was trying to do two things at once. Post and work.

How come my Evo VI GSR TME cant buy Original Turbo..?

I bought it with my first TME VI GSR once, then like a day later, I went back into the tune shop and saw that the turbo wasn't there anymore.. What's up with that?

Edited to add

Oh never mind, please disregard, I forogt I tuned my white TME at Mine's Sport..