The ultimate Zonda R '09 tune [UPDATE 7.12.10]

Cory Gillmore
Off topic but has anyone driven the Ford GT40 LM Spec II Test car? The premium that was also in Prologue. If I remember correctly, it was a little unruly in GT5P. How is it in GT5? It looks completely badass and I really want one as long as it performs as much as it's asking price.
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It was a nightmare driving that car i GTP.. I have the white one from GT4 and its a wonderful car to drive.. Hope that black one from GTP is as good. cause I agree that it looks completely badass..
 
The tune is pretty nice, thanks bro
I'm just unhappy about the sound of the Zonda R.
It completly sounds like a RC Car and the down gearing is just a simple computer generated beat. I have seen the Zonda R at the Nürburgring and it's real sound is just awesome.

Also I think it's acceleration is pretty bad ingame.
On my favorite race, the Expert-Turbo Race on HSR it takes like 3,6-4 sec. with my fully tuned GT-R SpecV to leave everyone behind me, with the Zonda R it takes like 6 sec....maybe I should change my Turbo from the Highest to the middle one?
 
i think your "updated" settings for this car are about as perfect as you can get, im using them now, i blow people out every race by like 15-25 seconds, nice job sir
 
Excellent work, OP. Thanks.
I had to up the traction control to 9 (instead of 7) because I was still too squirrelly accelerating out of the corners.

Now Bob is absolutely KICKING ARSENAL in his new minolta at GT all stars.

He even lapped somebody in the first race! Go BOB go!

thx again, OP
 
filphil89
You don't actually grind. You do B-Spec and do something else and come back to a, hopefully, 1st place win.
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Correct. I wish though that there's some way we can interact with the drivers, like race against them parse? That would be really interesting.
 
I love this tune up for the Zonda its ace. What I like about it the most is its two tunes in one, Any chance to do this for the Corvette ZR 1 RM09 and the Minolta PLEASE
 
seoulspirit
SR:18.0F//18.0R

CA:1.4F//0R
TA:-0.15F/1.00R

Traction control:7/ABS:10

ultimate
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Well, I don't want to be harsh but I have a sligth doubt !
If only this car was cheaper I could tell :)

- Springs seems to be very strong and no attention of where the mass is.
- 0 camber in the rear is a problem in curves.
- TA should be 0/0 on any car and changed only if the situation is desesperate.
- TCS 7 is well... Usefull on that kind of car but set to high imo
- ABS 10 shows you have difficulties to make this car brake and you choose to sacrifice her acceleration and top speed to correct that.

Keep on anyway ! Passion drives us :)
 
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Nice settings, way better than stock. But somehow this thing keeps getting squirrely... even in 4th gear I have managed to spin it. I'll try bumping TCS to 9 or 10 and see if it helps.
 
For some reason I recently realized a higher downforce in the F and a lower downforce in the R will cause oversteer, so try that (Ex:Highest for front downforce/Lowest for rear downforce) Hope that helped, kinda surprised someone found this
 
seoulspirit
You'll also need to buy Chassis Reinforcement, High RPM turbo, soft racing tires along with Stage 3 engine
For some reason i thought you could RM this...o well
KEY:Red = Updated (Grip over speed). Black = Original (Speed over grip). Blue = Side notes.
​
Aero

30F//55R For other courses like Daytona road or suzuka just set it to max
  • 30-55 still keeps the initial ratio when you buy the car stock (math involved = ftl).
  • Using lower aero will increase speed, while increasing will increase manueverability. Obviously with Daytona (oval) and Indy, you want all the speed you can get. On the other hand, more demanding courses like suzuka would require max maneuverability
LSD
IT:5 Set in the 40's
A:12 Set in the 30's

B:5 Set in the 10's
  • I was being lazy as hell with the updated settings. I wanted it higher because sometimes I'd find my car occasionally mis-performing. For "B", Braking would kind of turn into an issue where the whole car would spin out. Now you can atleast slide into the turn if you want, or you can just grip through it
Trans

236 (maxes out @223) (minimum)
  • This is the optimum transmission setting for both set-ups. For high speed races you could set it higher due to drafting and an increase of speed from that
Suspension
RH:-30F//-30R
SR:18.0F//18.0R
D(E):7F//3R
D(C):5F//1R

ARB:2F//4R
  • Don't plan on touching these settings unless I totally feel like reworking it
Wheel Align
CA:1.4F//0R

TA:-0.15F/1.00R
  • Might be able to change these settings to turn it into a drift car
Brakes

5F//5R 10F//8R
  • Like i said, I kept spinning out when I would brake. With more power to the front it's a lot less likely it happens :D
No Racing assists turned on Traction control:7/ABS:10[/COLOR][/SIZE]
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Test Track: Grand Valley Speedway
Best Lap: 1:42.855

First and foremost, in an effort to compare the 4 Zonda R Tunes presented to me, I left the HP at stock, and didn't perform any upgrades, other than the Tires to Racing Soft.
Comparison of all 4: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=4589829#post4589829
Having said that, lets get into the tune.

Corner Entry: This tune appears to rely on the entry. The entry was solid. Just slightly under balanced in the oversteer direction which I like, but still borderline balanced. So, as long as I entered the corner the way the car liked, it seemed to carry that momentum through the rest of the corner. Unfortunately there wasn't much mistake room here, and I found it hit or miss.

Middle: As above, if the entry was on target, the middle was at it's best, but not to my best liking. I feel more understeer than I like, wasn't out of control, but more than I consider worth living with. One thing I did notice, was that this tune handles the entire corner better, on the smaller, tighter, lower speed corners. The higher speed ess curves, and sweeping turns the car simply doesn't want to turn when the throttle is applied.

Exit: The understeer of the corner carries through the exit, and is slightly more drastic than through the center, making the car feel as if it lacks the agility to maneuver through back to back corners, and this really kills the lap times on a track like Grand Valley, where there are plenty of corner combinations throughout. I also noticed the tendency to break loose on hard throttle, if not applied with care.

Overall, the lack of rear camber and abundance of rear toe, combined with a 50/50 spring ratio strike me as extremely odd. But I did enjoy the higher Brake Balance. This tune oddly enough, jumps ahead of my ghost(1:40.8) through the first corner by about a car length, and then quickly loses it in the next quick pair of corners. Regardless, the car seems to handle on a mediocre level as is, but I've come to find my driving style requiring my own LSD adjustments. As I did with the previous Zonda Test, I applied my settings of 20,8,5 for the LSD and ran 5 laps, but to no avail. The gains here were minor, where the understeer on exit is more than I could overcome to produce a better lap time :(
 
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BlueShift
Well, I don't want to be harsh but I have a sligth doubt !
If only this car was cheaper I could tell :)

- Springs seems to be very strong and no attention of where the mass is.
- 0 camber in the rear is a problem in curves.
- TA should be 0/0 on any car and changed only if the situation is desesperate.
- TCS 7 is well... Usefull on that kind of car but set to high imo
- ABS 10 shows you have difficulties to make this car brake and you choose to sacrifice her acceleration and top speed to correct that.

Keep on anyway ! Passion drives us :)
Click to expand...


I agree with you BlueShift, but this game is not as realistic as we all wish it was. And while I appreciate some of the experienced tuners' knowledge of such things as weight distribution, the effect that those real-life characteristic have on the tuning system in this game can best be described as marginal. I also disagree with your philosophy on toe settings, the Ferrari F10 comes with a +0.50 toe adjustment at stock.
 
I'm not surprised that there are some cars that need TCS and ABS in game. In real life cars like the Zonda, the 599 GTO, Enzo, and others are monsters that will try to kill you without the computers being on. In these cars the computers will make you faster, and while I don't really like that idea, it's how these cars work. While PD has programed some flaws in the game, I feel like they got this part right.
 
Not working at all for me, I'm still getting 11th and 12th place with the car stalling at times. :grumpy: What a waste of $50,000!!! Plus the cost to rebuild the body is staggering.
 
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