Post a pic of your real car

  • Thread starter Sparxxx
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Yes! Not to mention that the Toyota dealer that I bought it from has some of the best customer service I've ever experienced! 👍

I just looked at your 2000 Tundra, I think my Tacoma is almost identical (except the engine)!
 
Yes! Not to mention that the Toyota dealer that I bought it from has some of the best customer service I've ever experienced! 👍

I just looked at your 2000 Tundra, I think my Tacoma is almost identical (except the engine)!

I really need to update my Tundra thread! Yeah, the new Tacoma and old Tundra are just about the same size. Toyota really needs to stick a 4.7 or even 5.7(:crazy::drool:) in the new Tacoma. That would be one hell of a ride!
 
Had a quick play around with my iPhone's camera yesterday after a nice drive.

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Nothing special, just another one of many G35's rolling around the US. Blew up the original VQ35DE with a GReddy twin turbo kit and have since abandoned making power with it as it's my daily beater. Blown up VQ35DE is sitting waiting for another S-Chassis to go into. Now running a mildly built VQ35HR in the G. Crap pics from my iPhone while doing laundry earlier...

- HKS HiperMax III Coilovers
- Battle Version Rear Camber & Toe Arms
- TEIN Inner & Outer Tie Rods
- Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
- Custom Wiseco 11:1 Forged Pistons
- Carrillo H-Beam Rods
- Profiled Crank Counter-Weights
- ACL Race Bearings
- Ported Heads & Intake Manifold
- Brain Crower +1mm Stainless Steel Intake & Exhaust Valves
- Brain Crower Valve Springs
- Injen Intakes
- Ichiba Headers (Manifold Cat Delete Versions)
- Berks High Flow Cats
- Apex-i AFC Neo Controller
- Stainless Braided Clutch & Brake Lines
- Hawk HPS Brake Pads
- Lucas Fluids Throughout Engine/Trans/Differential
- Bridgestone Potenza RE050A's All Around

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G's everywhere, G-Unit. What year is yours? Mine's a 2006 STS Package, so I got screwed by a +/- a year on both the brakes and motor LOL.

2003.5 Sedan, screwed by .5 of a year in the ECU department now that Technosquare is gone. 👎

I've been looking into the GReddy E-Manage Ultimate, and will probably pull the trigger this summer after my summer rubber goes back on.

I've thought of upgrading to a newer G, but if I do, it would be to an 06 as the 07+ styling just doesn't appeal to me much.
 
2003.5 Sedan, screwed by .5 of a year in the ECU department now that Technosquare is gone. 👎

I've been looking into the GReddy E-Manage Ultimate, and will probably pull the trigger this summer after my summer rubber goes back on.

I've thought of upgrading to a newer G, but if I do, it would be to an 06 as the 07+ styling just doesn't appeal to me much.

If you're not heavily modded I don't see the point of the e-Manage. I basically run everything but cams and exhaust system (I like the stock note too much) now so I don't need timing control really. My AFC Neo does the job just fine and my A/F's are pretty flat throughout. BoomSlang has a harness adapter if you don't feel comfortable in directly wiring it yourself. They don't advertise it, but they have made them before.

http://www.boomslang.us/neo.htm

I had the luxury of having a friend who has a factory service manual with wiring diagrams. But yeah if you're not boosted, running tons of nitrous, or have a very aggressive cam profile I never saw the point of an ECU like an AEM or e-Manage. I'm more of an F-Con & ViPEC guy myself anyways. I have a guy who's got a pair of my extra HR throttle bodies and is boring them out, we'll see how much bigger he can actually get them. He did my DE throttle body before and got it about 3mm larger. 👎 Should just find a pair of VK56's and bore them out...
 
If you're not heavily modded I don't see the point of the e-Manage. I basically run everything but cams and exhaust system (I like the stock note too much) now so I don't need timing control really. My AFC Neo does the job just fine and my A/F's are pretty flat throughout. BoomSlang has a harness adapter if you don't feel comfortable in directly wiring it yourself. They don't advertise it, but they have made them before.

http://www.boomslang.us/neo.htm

I had the luxury of having a friend who has a factory service manual with wiring diagrams. But yeah if you're not boosted, running tons of nitrous, or have a very aggressive cam profile I never saw the point of an ECU like an AEM or e-Manage. I'm more of an F-Con & ViPEC guy myself anyways. I have a guy who's got a pair of my extra HR throttle bodies and is boring them out, we'll see how much bigger he can actually get them. He did my DE throttle body before and got it about 3mm larger. 👎 Should just find a pair of VK56's and bore them out...

I'm running the basic bolt ons...Z-Tube, plenum spacer, headers, high flow cats and dual exhaust...nothing special, but its throwing my A/F off, causing me to run rich and lean conditions through out the RPM's. Not throwing any codes (the 03's are atleast known to be a little more flexible when it comes to add-on's) but its putting my emmission test results almost over the limit, plus, with a decent tune theres another 20-30+ hp to be gained.

I'm looking into the AFC as we speak, although I haven't heard about it on G35driver.com at all. Is it easy to tune the A/F ratio, or is a dyno and everything needed?
 
Nnnnot quuiiiiiiiiite.

The XR4Ti used an engine that, to my knowledge, was never put into the European market Capri. (2.3 "Pinto"/Lima engine, in the XR4Ti only offered with a turbo) and the XR4Ti was the 3-door only.

We also got the Scorpio, which if memory serves was available with (or only got?) the 2.8 Cologne V6... Which was used in the European Capri/Scorpio.

It was the 2.9 cologne V6. We had it for a couple of years. I really liked the car.

I'm looking into the AFC as we speak, although I haven't heard about it on G35driver.com at all. Is it easy to tune the A/F ratio, or is a dyno and everything needed?

You could do it yourself and just cut back fuel 3-5 across the range, but that wouldn't be very smart. You would be better off getting it dyno tuned. Also, the vafc2 or the NEO have finer control, more tuning points.
 
SRV2LOW4ME
I'm running the basic bolt ons...Z-Tube, plenum spacer, headers, high flow cats and dual exhaust...nothing special, but its throwing my A/F off, causing me to run rich and lean conditions through out the RPM's. Not throwing any codes (the 03's are atleast known to be a little more flexible when it comes to add-on's) but its putting my emmission test results almost over the limit, plus, with a decent tune theres another 20-30+ hp to be gained.

I'm looking into the AFC as we speak, although I haven't heard about it on G35driver.com at all. Is it easy to tune the A/F ratio, or is a dyno and everything needed?

With an actual ECU obviously you'll have more adjust range and ability. I just couldn't warrant the cost for the gain when I don't run cams or any forced induction anymore. You would have less plot points in your map with a NEO, and you won't be able to get nearly as flat of an A/F. Just take into account it was intended for the bolt on enthusiast to make adjustments the factory ECU can't compensate for. NEO will not modify the ignition timing if that's what you're after.

I would also recommend some dyno time if you haven't used a controller like this, or ever tuned before. I have an Innovate LC-1 hard wired into my car and just use the LM-2 hand held logger box from car to car. I street tuned my car based on the RPM & A/F overlay logs.

LM-2 is nice also because you can use it as a scan tool for thrown codes. BTW my car passes smog with flying colors. Or if you're in SoCal (LA) I know "a guy." LOL!
 

Oh yeah F-Body love right over here. Your sig says 95 not stock. You running and LSX now? Details por favor!

Also picked up a beater N/A Z32 300ZX today. It's pretty clean, and the 1 in a million without leaky t-tops. G's rackin' up more miles than I'd care for it to...

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Oh yeah F-Body love right over here. Your sig says 95 not stock. You running and LSX now? Details por favor!

Also picked up a beater N/A Z32 300ZX today. It's pretty clean, and the 1 in a million without leaky t-tops. G's rackin' up more miles than I'd care for it to...

Thanks, I wish I was running some sort of LSX haha. But no it's still the LT1, on a 94 octane tune, pacesetter longtube headers no cats into a custom catback with a y pipe. Out back it's rocking 3.42 gears and an auburn posi. Has a pro 5.0 shifter with a Spec stage 3 clutch and suspension wise it's got quite a bit done to it. A BMR strut tower bar, UMI subframe connectors, UMI relocation kit for the UMI lower control arms, UMI panhard bar, Strano springs and Koni adjustable shocks. Overall, it's one hell of a handler. 👍

Nice 300ZX, t tops are fun aren't they? Can't wait to enjoy them this summer on my Fbody!
 
I've had more friends than I can think or with 300ZX's at one point in time of their life. I can't remember one that didn't complain about T-Top leaks, or the convertible rag tops leaking. I found the fluke that doesn't, was the first thing I checked before even driving it. It's been pretty well cared for other than general wear and tear for a car that's 20 years old.

Atleast you have a 95 with the better Optispark, be thankful for that. It's hard to get a LS core to work off of that's not already thrashed or someone doesn't want major bucks for. Building one from complete scratch cost an arm and a leg. You don't wanna go truck LQ9 cause the block's iron twice the weight and cathedral port heads. You can't find L92 cores because everyones already pillaged them for the 4.000" bore aluminum block with the L76/92 rectangle port heads. I feel your pain. Passed up a CLEAAAAAN 71 240Z roller that was begging for an LSX, just didn't seem cost effective. Booo LSX whores, save us some of the good stuff....
 
Shoulda bought that Z anyway. Then bought a Mark VIII with a bad trans, bad airbags, body damage, take your pick so long as it's a good runner. Rebuild w/ 03-4 Cobra crank, good rods/pistons, '96-8 Cobra intake, add boost. Find a trans and rear end that'll hold up to it (built 4R70W or a T56 depending on what you want, Ford 8.8" of some description... If you want IRS the Mark can also donate its center section). Cheaper than an LS of any description because everyone and their grandmother wants an LS, just more fab work.
 
So jealous of the Z right now mate, how much did you pick it up for?

I am looking for one this year as a first car, its that or a 3rd gen liberty but to find a good z is around 7000AUD here...
 
So jealous of the Z right now mate, how much did you pick it up for?

I am looking for one this year as a first car, its that or a 3rd gen liberty but to find a good z is around 7000AUD here...

I take it you mean the atmo version? Don't the turbos also have a heater pipe that's rather prone to rusting and you need to drop the motor/gearbox to replace? That's what some mechanic told me anyway. I always pictured 300ZXs as slightly complicated cars that can lead to high maintenance costs.
 
I take it you mean the atmo version? Don't the turbos also have a heater pipe that's rather prone to rusting and you need to drop the motor/gearbox to replace? That's what some mechanic told me anyway. I always pictured 300ZXs as slightly complicated cars that can lead to high maintenance costs.

Yes, the turbo's do bring along some nasty flaws which I thankfully wont have to worry about. I will be getting non turbo, as you know, we are most certainly not allowed twin turbo 6 cylinder cars on our p's :lol:.

I hope that because I am not going for a turbo I shouldn't have to worry too much about engine/ transmission problems as it gets older but I am not 100% sure. The leaky roof thing is definitely something I hadn't heard of until now, I will keep my eye out for that and be sure to ask about it when I take a look. Thanks for pointing that out guys.
 
I had entertained trying to put something together with a Mod motor in it, like a 5.4L 4V. Mod motors just get expensive too. I just think everything I want is pricey, used to building the nice motors with JESEL shaft rockers and belt drives, non conventional valve angle heads, etc. Sucks to build your dreams for someone else.

Z was picked up for $2,500 US. Yes Z32's aren't cheap to fix when something major goes wrong, nor are they fun to work on. This one is relatively high mileage at 160K. But I bought it off a friend who's taken care of it the last 5 years or so (he put on about 75K). Motor still pumps 160psi +/1 a few lbs consistently cylinder to cylinder. I'm always concerned about the ring tension being gone on a car with this many miles thats original. It has had all of the major servicing though, so I'm not worried about a failure anytime soon. Heads have been refreshed with a valve job and surfacing, new viton stem seals, has Cometic head gaskets just because he pulled the top end apart, oil pump & water pump are new. Doesn't burn any oil, doesn't leak any engine/trans oil, diff drain plug leaks a tiny tiny bit. Interior is cloth black/grey.

Turbo versions do have a problem with the heater hose breaking that's right. It runs right behind the motor over the exhaust manifold and down pipe. N/A's with headers don't really have this issue. N/A's with stock exhaust manifolds don't seem to be too bad. I'm starting to get tempted to rip into this thing, but it just drives too nice to mess with. Some new wheels, maybe some body work and fresh paint, a little suspension and maybe a short shifter. If I get bored with it I'll rig a small dry shot of nitrous on it. But it's just intended to be a beater car. I want to see the odometer roll over 200K before i let it go or mess with it.
 
Not my car, but this one is driven by teh family:

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Honda Civic SiR. All I want from this car is a top-speed run or something similar. Just want the VTEC to kick in...
 
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