Crispy's CSR Elite Thread: Review Final--Writeup--FAQ

  • Thread starter Crispy
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^Oh it's not done yet. ;)

Posted the FFB section of my review, hope you enjoy.
 
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Thanks crispy.

One other thing mate.

I know rumble effects are rather muted on my GT2. In both F1 2011 (F1 2010 had brilliant effects pre patch then they buggered it up). Forza is ok ish.
Are the SHO options a lot stronger? It will only do what the software allows I suppose but has Thomas cranked it up a bit?

Cheers mate.

Oh Shift 2 suffers FFback drop outs. A simple pause and unpause will bring back the effects. Do you have this game to check out? Also FF isn't bad in this for a console.

Er that's 2 questions sorry, er maybe 3 I've lost count.
 
No worry, I enjoy these questions. It gives my hands time to un-cringe themselves from the 3 and 9 positions. :lol: Heading over to my video store to rent F1 2011 and Shift 2. I also took GTR2 off my list, never have been able to get a wheel to work properly on that game. (to verify it wasn't the wheel I connected it to rFactor for all of three minutes (the time it took before the demo ran out(Parentheses inside parentheses inside parentheses, paradox) so I couldn't really test it all to well.) and it worked perfectly.) I will update my PC reports once I get iRacing and a sufficient PC to run it.
 
Okay guys, I kinda forgot to update yesterday, so to compensate, I will post up two parts of my review. One part has already been posted, the other will be posted later on tonight. The next one will be a new category. I'm using this to replace shifters category, because I'm deciding to make separate reviews for shifters.
 
LogiForce
Found any issues yet or things you stumbled upon, Crispy?
Click to expand...

Not really. One small nitpick I have is that after installing 717 when calibrating, the wheel will spin once, stop, and I have to tap it to get it to spin again. Overall though, this wheel is pretty flawless. (Besides Mr Latte's belt problem. :lol:)
 
Q:How well does it work with the G27 pedal adapter cable?

I ordered mine with the 5 dollar adapter cable (thank god not so expensive), and I just wanted to know if it works well with the CSR Elite. Does the input respond without noticable delays or such? Thank you and great work with the FAQ!
 
Sadly I don't have a G27 pedal set. I'm sorry about that, but it shouldn't work any different than any other Fanatec wheel.
 
Crispy
Not really. One small nitpick I have is that after installing 717 when calibrating, the wheel will spin once, stop, and I have to tap it to get it to spin again. Overall though, this wheel is pretty flawless. (Besides Mr Latte's belt problem. :lol:)
Click to expand...

Sounds like a minor issue that could be easily enough resolved in the next iteration of the firmware.
Latte has a belt problem? If he's gotten thinner from all the testing then maybe that's a good belt problem? ;) But seriously, I don't know if it's due to him having a beta wheel or not but I hope he gets it sorted somehow. I wonder how you would bring the belt up to tension though with just bolts.
 
It was more a design issue with the belt. It appears to be possible to adjust the tension so light that the belt slips off its lower pully. Latte said it appears the only way to fix this if it happens appears to be alot of work. He managed it with some paper clips thu the vents.
Pretty sure thats right, please correct me if im wrong mr latte.
 
Caz
It was more a design issue with the belt. It appears to be possible to adjust the tension so light that the belt slips off its lower pully. Latte said it appears the only way to fix this if it happens appears to be alot of work. He managed it with some paper clips thu the vents.
Pretty sure thats right, please correct me if im wrong mr latte.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a pain. I would've been crazy enough to open the thing though instead of fiddling through a vent hole. Glad he got it on somehow, it's just that I am afraid it will happen to him again at this rate. Unless he managed to get it up to the proper tension again of course. Would be nice if there was a tension sensor in it somehow, that helped you to tighten it up properly.

You know... something like this:
main_large.jpg
 
It's also too bad you can't flip open the plexi-shield and open the "hood". Hmmm... that might not be a bad idea for a mod.
 
Caz
It was more a design issue with the belt. It appears to be possible to adjust the tension so light that the belt slips off its lower pully. Latte said it appears the only way to fix this if it happens appears to be alot of work. He managed it with some paper clips thu the vents.
Pretty sure thats right, please correct me if im wrong mr latte.
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Your spot on Caz.
It didnt help I turned the wheel to feel how loose it was, then whoops off jumped the belt.

I can see why Fanatec have allowed the belts to be tightend over time with possible wear and stretching. Just think they need to notify customers to take care with this feature. Is it a bit of a design flaw that their is no easy way into the wheel, perhaps but this could be the cause for a lot of frustration to owners. Ive not tried to dismantle the chassis (yet).

Err yes your right I did get it fixed with the paper clips and a bit of nifty handwork but it also seemed to require some pateince and a few swear words before getting the top and bottom on.
 
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Yeah, I think the belt tension adjuster is more or less for when the belt comes loose after a while, you can tighten it. Not something to really adjust with. It can at least be known that it's an easy problem to not get yourself into. Don't loosen the belts!

Haven't gotten any testing done lately. Studying for finals! On Friday I'll be spending time with the girlfriend, but I will continue to update everyone on my review.

Added my second part to today! I figure since on Friday I won't really be home, I'll add the final two parts of the review.
 
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Caz
(Yet)


Slacker! Lol
Click to expand...

Okay time to come clean I was bluffing with the (yet).
My camera has been to the inner regions of the CSR Elite.
Every inch has been photographed and will be in my own reports.
Wheel porn is on baby!



The belt issue is not that big of a problem, trust me. I did almost wet myself when it happened and was scared to try and open the wheel up.

I don't encourage the faint hearted to do it but it is quite easy to do.
However I am not wanting to be the person to blame if some of you wreck summit or have a problem with any warranty.

The simpleness and tidyness of the new chassis is very simplistic and elegant.
Id say a genious of a design, its almost art.



* Hey no rush Crispy, looking forward to more from you my good man!
 
Looks interesting in there, Latte. Thanks for the electro-mechanical porn. ;)

I seriously wonder now if it's really 2 motors driving one belt or not. Although it does look that way from this point of view. I reckon there is another wheel before it all attaches to the motors or not? If not I am still pondering how you can tighten both the belts by adjusting only one side.
 
There is a much smaller belt, it's harder to notice but it's there. I think that one goes to another Motor.
 
Crispy
There is a much smaller belt, it's harder to notice but it's there. I think that one goes to another Motor.
Click to expand...

I see two belts in Latte's pictures. One wide from the axle to the small gear, which is on the same axle as a big gear which holds a small belt going to either one or two motors. So if there is a third belt... I can't see it. ;)

I wonder how in the world you can adjust the tension still though. For example what if the little belt gets wide but the big belt doesn't? You won't be able to adjust the gears. Unless the whole motor assembly is movable as well on the other side, if the two motors are joined together and drive just the one small belt.

On another note, I wonder why such a small belt has been chosen to be driven directly while the big belt is chosen to be driven incorrectly or only by user input through the axle.
 
I think we need to warn our customers more clearly not to touch the belts at all.

The belts are a complicate thing and we need precise fixtures to adjust the right belt tension. This is nothing which should be done by a consumer.

I remember the words of ferdinand Piech (CEO Volkswagen). He would love to weld the engine hood to with the car body and seal it so no customer can touch anything inside.
 
Fanatec...
I think we need to warn our customers more clearly not to touch the belts at all.

The belts are a complicate thing and we need precise fixtures to adjust the right belt tension. This is nothing which should be done by a consumer.
Click to expand...

True Thomas. I will stop pondering about it as well in public if that helps. I am just the kind of guy that likes to take stuff apart and see how they work, even in my minds eye. ;)

Since they are from Optibelt which also make drive belts for cars, I am sure they'll last a life time. They aren't subject to weather conditions like a drive belt which is a good thing. Only slight heat changes effect it from friction and air blowing through the base, which shouldn't matter at all within the expected life of such a product (read the CSR Elite wheel).

Oh and Thomas, if I don't see you around anymore before Christmas due to you being busy. Let me say I wish you, your family and everyone at Endor a merry Christmas and all the best for 2012. Also I hope you can relax a bit during that time after all the releases and other stuff. ;)
 
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Yes, Thomas, take a brake, I'm sure you need one before you bring us more stuff like CSW, CSS and CSHB. There are more important things than wheels and nobody should forget that, even you :)
 
LogiForce
On another note, I wonder why such a small belt has been chosen to be driven directly while the big belt is chosen to be driven incorrectly or only by user input through the axle.
Click to expand...

Not to speak out of turn but it's done that way TO allow for some belt slip during things like a rapid back and forth rocking of the wheel. If the belt doesn't slip a little it puts a lot of stress on the belt and the motors.

If you look at say an ECCI 7000 wheel which is similar in its idea of the multi pulley system in the CSR E it also uses a smaller width belt on the motor than the belt used to control the steering wheel shaft.

d30487e6.jpg
 
thehawk05
Not to speak out of turn but it's done that way TO allow for some belt slip during things like a rapid back and forth rocking of the wheel. If the belt doesn't slip a little it puts a lot of stress on the belt and the motors.

If you look at say an ECCI 7000 wheel which is similar in its idea of the multi pulley system in the CSR E it also uses a smaller width belt on the motor than the belt used to control the steering wheel shaft.

d30487e6.jpg
Click to expand...

Yeah, I figured that out when I saw Thomas his post last night on iRacing towards Michael about his belt slipping video. Also see my last post, I kinda explained it here already, showing I figured it out.

It's also the reason Thomas said here in another topic that the end-users shouldn't adjust he belt tension himself, since the tension should be very precise. Too little tension and there is no or little FFB, too much tension and you'll overheat or destroy your motors (for sure it'll wear it out over time).
 
So I have to wonder why the feature was left in??

Thomas himself mentioned it in a video.

A little odd although they may not have noticed the problem?
 

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