The C-Fresh motorsports garage

  • Thread starter Rallywagon
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Rallywagon

what a long strange trip
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Rallywgn81
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C-Fresh is a tuning house who's main school of driving thought has been drift. Now with a shift into the world of tuning and togue, I have found a place to showcase my philosophy on tuning a car.

My driving style is not for the driver looking for a comfortable car with some under steer, something you can throw into a corner, gun the engine and not have to worry. Nor do I believe my tunes will cater well to someone using a controller, not without a lot of abs.
I tune for a neutral car, with heavy brakes. I drive with a light, left foot brake, and use heavy brakes for late braking.

While I will probably do a small few race cars, the larger focus of this garage is on tuning street cars for drifting and togue racing. These tunes will also typically be between 400 and 500pp. Though I will have special tunes for higher and lower pp.

All cars are ran on a Logitec Momo steering wheel, with only gas and brake. All aids are off, with abs, online, either on the nurburgring or on my track, Teggerdine Pass (TP).

Enjoy the tunes, feel free to leave comments and impressions.

Current tune session: 2Mar2012
Been running spec races with S.N.A.I.L. A rad group of racers with some good competition. I suggest checking them out. I currently run a Weekly side session call "Mayhem Mondays." Rules and description to follow.
I'm also working on some more tunes, and perfected some others, Im also working on a simpler format to posting my tunes. My ADD kicks in when i try copying everything off the screen. So pictures it will be! I'll update things shortly.


Past tune sessions
Parallel NA/Turbo Build:Complete
Currently I am tuning to see the practical applications between strictly engine tuned cars and turbo tuned cars. Cars are either the same car, or when not currently allowable, the same model with the same pp, hp, torque levels, and weight will be used. More on the cars and my thoughts Below.
Verdict:
I like the motor tunes better. I did two sets of cars for this test, the Rx7's below, and a couple of celica GT-Fours. In both cases, I feel the N/A had the edge. And the laps confirmed that i was running faster with all engine. Im sure that this will not be true with all cars, and maybe I will get back to tinkering with other cars later.

Cars tuned:
TBA
 
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This spot I'll be using to update current projects:

Current Project:
Turbo/NA lateral tune sessions.

9dec2011:
So I've been noticing that there is a sizable difference in hp between the two. The turbos make far more. But with my 3rd gen Rx-7 combo at least, I was pulling times about .100 of a second faster then the turbo on TP. I'll have to go back and take a look at the torque numbers as well. Time to tune some of the other pairs I have. I'll make a list shortly, I have I believe 6 pairs to try out.
 
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Good luck mate 👍

I was gonna say that but didnt want to take up his 2nd post as he mite have wanted to reserve it.

Rallywagon good luck, its good to see another touge tuner and I look foward to seeing what you come up with.

See you on the touge.👍
 
This spot is for the Monday Mayhem spectacular! Once I get some pics from this Mondays event, I'll make a banner.

Monday Monday Monday!!! Come on down to the GTP Thunder Dome for the Monday Mayhem Spectacular. We've got thrills, we've got chills, we've got bone shattering spills!!!

The Monday mayhem (MM) is a weekly session that is part of the S.N.A.I.L. Racing Series. The goal of MM is to give all the races a day of fun and relaxation after a week of practice and racing. Its a two hour event starting at 10PM EST. The first hour will be a Initial D style race, race on free run. The second hour will be Cat and Mouse. See below for more details on each race.

Hour One.
The concept: This is the Touge Hour. The emphasis here is going to be focused on driver improvement. As such, tuning will be prohibited. Car selection is free, up to the allowed PP for the night. Only street cars can be used. No Race, tuner, or concept cars allowed. Tires will be Sports Hard or lower.
The general rules: Racers will enter the course and if not staying in the pit, move into the staging zone. The staging zone is the section of track, generally the front straight, between the finish and the start line. racers will line up either in the challenger lane or opponent lane. When lining up for your race, stay to the outer most portions of the track, to allow for the center to be a braking zone for people finishing their race. When its your turn to race, follow the staging rules below. Racers will then decide if they will be starting Head to Head (H2H, aka, grip gambler) or if they will do follow the leader style start (FTL, aka cat and mouse sudden death). In a H2H battle, both players start lined up next to each other, and both begin their race at the agreed upon time. the first one across the finish line wins. In a FTL race, the driver who is challanged picks whether they will lead or follow. The leader then will slowly begin, with the trailing car following. once the first corner is cleared (ie. the point you normally clear the apex and begin accelerating) the race is begun. The leader can either creep to this point, or sprint to this point without worry of being passed, once you have passed the apex, the race has begun. If the leader breaks a large lead (over 1.5 seconds) then they win, if the follower passes the leader, and makes it to the finish line in first place, he wins, and no other races are necessary. If both cars are lined up or there is no real gap between the racers (under 1.5 seconds), then the drivers will switch positions, and start agian. A spot after and before the last and first corners will be designated as the finish and starting lines. all the area between will be the slow down area and staging spot.
Call out system and line up system: Is just that, feel free to call someone out, maybe sunday you almost had someone and want a rematch. or you want to smoke the pants off of someone for brushing up on your car. Maybe your looking to follow someone to watch their style, so you can become a better racer. Or enjoy the challenge of good, close, one on one competition. Whatever the case, you can call out anyone in the room for a race. and anyone can call you out. If there is a lull, or people are shy, and not participating, then I hold the right to start assigning battles. Alternatively, simply entering the track and picking a lane is acceptable as well, in the case that the racer you are lined up against is racing another opponent, then hold your position until you are lined up with another racer not utilizing the CoS.
The staging zone and lining up: The staging area is the area between the designated finish line up to the starting zone. These are typically lines in the road or other such markers. This area is typically the first straight on tracks like Nurburgring 24h and custom Toscana tracks, next to the pit lane. Once you leave the pit and enter the track, you will need to either move to the inside or outside edge of the track. these are the line up zones, much like they use in drag racing. edge as possible. The challenger takes the outside lane, the opponent, the inside lane. As races progress, the lane moves towards the finish line. When it is your turn to race, keeping an eye on the map, as not to pull into the braking zone while drivers are finishing their race, execute a safe u turn, and move up to the starting line. Again, I stress, watch the map, and be sure to clear the track if you see someone finishing their race. during this time, if you have not done so already, pick your starting style, as well as your starting time, try for 20 seconds out, so you both have time to line up properly. Once you hit the agreed upon time, your free to start your race.
Finishing and winning: If your doing a H2H start, then first across the line wins. if your doing FLT, then more races are probable. In FTL, if the chasing car passes the leader, and maintains the lead across the finish line, then the follower wins. If the lead car breaks away to a sizable lead by time they finish, then the lead car wins. If both cars finish close to each other (ie. from the front bumper of the leader, to around 1 second behind) then a rematch will be in order. The Leader now becomes the follower, and the follower the leader. The race will continue like this until one of the winning conditions are met. During no time during a FTL race, are the racers allowed to pit or exit the track, rare circumstances aside, until after the race is over. Doing so will disqualify you, and give the win to your opponent. Upon finishing a race, if not in a current FTL match, quickly and safely come to a stop, then exit the track, either into the pits, or out into the lobby. from there you may call someone out, line up back in the staging area or what have you. If your are in a current FTL race, and need another round, then safely slow down to a reasonable speed (think pit lane speeds) and proceed to the start line to prepare for your next race. Racers that are finishing a FTL race, and that need to do another round, will state so as soon as possible. FTL racers moving into the next round will take precedence on the starting line. Once the series has finished, then finish as stated above.
Chase Cars: This is a option, for people to follow racers for reasons of recording races, following to watch the racers, or what have you. A chase car must first have the racers permissions to follow, will at no time attempt to race with, try to pass, or in any way interfere with a race. At all times keep a responsible distance from the racers.
This is a free run event, and people are more then welcome to sit around and watch, as well as chase racers. However, at no point is anyone to interfere with racers. if you are on the track and see a group catching you, please pull off the track to allow them to safely pass. This is a no tolerance policy. It is your responsibility to ensure you are not in the racers way. If they caught you on a two minute gap, then your obviously not going to out race them. Please pull off.
Tracks will be either of the long Nurburgring courses or custom tracks. Anyone is free to make a course so long as they are a member of S.N.A.I.L. and send me a friend request prior to Monday so I can download the course. I will be keeping a loose win loss record, but its up to you to make sure the results are accurate. These results will be posted below, and updated the day after the event. Again this is for fun, and is open to evolve.

At a glance:
No tuning Allowed. all cars are stock, except rims and paint.
Engine rebuilds and oil changes are at your discretion. Be aware you should break in your car after an engine rebuild.
Tires: Sports hard
Only aid allowed is ABS.
Damage: Heavy
Tire wear/ Fuel: On
rain/edge of track: Real
Penalties: Off
Boost: Off
Slip Stream: Weak (Tentative)

Hour Two.
The game of cat and mouse. Ran on the Nurburgring 24h, if possible, long custom tracks. The game and the rules are simple, the room is split into teams of two, with the possible odd man being the wild car. Each team of two will consist of a mouse car (a low pp car) and a cat (a super car). The purpose of the game, is to be the first team to get your mouse across the finish line. To achieve this, the cat car has free reign on the track, and is allowed to push his car, or block others. The Wild car has no team, and is able to help or hinder as they see fit. All cars will be pulled from the recommended list. Dirty, no holds barred, pin'em to the wall racing is strongly encouraged! Winner mouse becomes the wild car. The relinquished wild car driver takes the winners spot on the team, then all the team members switch cars. IE. if your in the slow car (this includes the old wild car driver, now in the slow car) you switch to the super car (this keeps any driver from getting wild car more then once), and vise versa. IE. the cat becomes the mouse, and the mouse becomes the cat!

At a glance:
No tuning allowed, as all cars are off the recommended.
Racing soft tires will be used.
Only aid allowed is ABS, set to 1.
Tire wear/Fuel: Off
Damage: Off
Tires: Race Soft
Rain/Edge of track: Real

Again this is a round of fun for us SNAILS. but as always, please follow The GTP OLR Rules, and practice good racecraft. On Monday night I will be posting the lobby number here and on the S.N.A.I.L. thread. This is a Online Lobby Event, all are welcome, however as this is a S.N.A.I.L. event, once the room has reached capacity (12 racers) all non S.N.A.I.L members will be removed, from the bottom up, to make room for other SNAILS trying to join. These events are open to evolve, so if you have an idea, shoot it at me, and we will see if we can work it in. Good Luck and good racing.
 
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2RX7tunes.jpg

Just some comments I'd like to add as I go through and further dial in these tunes. Im running slightly faster with the bathurst, Even though the RZ has more HP and torque, The power curve is far better in the Bathurst, which I believe is allowing me to power out of the corners faster than in the RZ. Considering the overall power difference, I think I will drop the turbo down a size and see what difference there is. My assumption is that for courses that are tighter, with more curves and less straights, then engine builds are superior to turbo tunes. And for the power courses, that the turbo is the better choice. More time and tunes will tell. Stay tuned...
 
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How to build a simple wheel stand.
For this wheel stand, I am using a Logitech Momo wheel and pedal set. I have no idea about other pedal sets, as I dont use them, however, I will add a section below to how I think you could go about doing different set ups as I've seen (by this, I mean, online pictures, just letting you know a head of time) them. YMMV. :dopey:

Wheel Stand:
While sitting in the seat you normally play in (use a folding chair or a chair for like a kitchen table, not your recliner, huge side armed super cushy chair, this is racing, not shooting people. and doing so will only ad to the size, which adds to the cost and instability of the rig as a whole) measure from the floor 1 inch off the top of your legs. Precision isn't , as this gap is just to keep everything off your legs and comfy for you. You can change this number to allow for whatever is comfortable for you. Now using 2x4, milled, lathed, smoothed, routed to your preference, Cut to this length. measure the outside of the front legs, from the outside of the left leg to the outside of the right leg, add an inch. this will place both "legs" of the wheel stand on the outside of the base frame. Using 4 screws, two on each side, screw the legs into the sides of the top. If you wish, you can cut some 1x1 peices to gusset up the inside of the corners running a couple of more screws threw all the peices. but I've been using a 1x4 as my top, with two screws on each side, the 1x4 is a hard wood at that, and Ive not had an issue with any left right looseness, and Ive been rather rough on this setup. Now, set this aside for now.


Pedal/base
for my set up now: using a block of wood, prop up the pedals, placing the wood so that it presses up against the teeth that catch the carpet. (This is where your experience may very, using a different setup, I do not know if there is anything you can use as a catch as I can with my pedals) measure from just behind the front legs of your chair, up to the wooden block. (if you dont have something to brace against. read below on this subject.) This will be the length of the frame, and the two outside "rails." Use two 2x4s for these rails, mill, lathe, smooth, route to your preference. now measure your chairs legs across the front, from the outside of the left leg to the outside of the right leg. add one inch. Now remove 3 inchs and cut. (the actual width of a 2x4 is 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 inchs) use a 1x1 for the back, and 2x1 in the front, and a 2x4 somewhere near the center. the 1x1 goes behind the chair legs, and keeps the whole rig from sliding forward. the 2x4 is the main brace, and building a couple of 1x1 gussets to help brace it isn't a bad idea. so, using some adequate amout of screws, put all of this together. two rails on the outside. 1x1 in between the rails in the back, 2x4 somewhere near the center, and the 1x2, positioned to angle the pedals to a height you like, (tip, screw in the bottom two screws on each side, then using your pedals, you can "roll" the 1x2 or if you want more height, 1x4, from horizontal to a vertical position then nail, screw, brad it in place. another tip, wood glue will help with sturdiness).

Putting them together:
Now, position your chair onto the frame, making sure that the back of the frame is fully pressed against the back of the chair legs (some clamps if you have them work great at keep them in place). Affix the wheel to the wheels base on the wheel stand. sit in seat, place wheel stand so that the wheel is comfortable for you to reach for. YMMV. while holding the wheel, use a sharpie or pencil to mark your spot on the base, using the front of the wheel stand legs as your marking spot. Ok, now here is where you can get creative, you can either just throw some screw into the legs, pinning them to the base frame, or you can create a hinge system, using a bolt and a metal sleeve of some sort (1/2 or smaller diameter tube works great), making it able to fold up to hide under a couch or in a closet. That being said. you must add a brace, that goes from under the wheel base, in the top corners of the wheel stand, down to the front of the pedal base. I have not done this, and now my wheel has moved about a foot an a half further forward. It sucks.
As I make my next rig, (the one pictured below I had as a quick prototype/ get me playing setup) I will takes better pictures of the build process. the pictures you see below are so you can kinda make sense of what Im saying, the pedal base is made of medal, use your imagination and pretend its wood. Happy budget gaming my friends. :cheers:
2012-03-21204524.jpg

2012-03-21204536.jpg

2012-03-21204617.jpg


Other pedal setups:
Ok, so I will admit, I only know how my pedals work. The have a "brush" across the front of the bottom with hard plastic teeth that is used to bite into carpet so they wont side, they can be retracted for hard surfaces, with padded feet to help with traction there (hahaha, yeah right). Anyway, I use these as a brace against the wood, works great. But if your pedal system doesnt work like this, what do you do? well, one simple solution is, if you have a pedal system not unlike mine, then you can simply make the measurement from behing the chair legs to the front of the pedal system. That way you are pushing the pedals into the front brace of the wooden base.
I will add more on this subject later.
 
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