CSO Tuning by Smuttysy - Now closed
- Thread starter Smuttysy
- 101 comments
- 77,611 views
Smuttysy- By using the same 1st, 2nd and 6th, if you use 1.204 for 3rd, 4th at .941 and .791 for 5th your transmission would be as even and as close as possible. Being as smooth and even as possible will also help you slow down and help stabilize the car during downshifts.
I noticed that on a few of your tunes for the 6-speeds for what you have found to be a decent transmission, your 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th gears are all the same. Is there a reason for this? I am wondering because not all cars are the same. I already understand that one can simply adjust the final gear to get the top speed they want. I'm just wondering if it's some kind of glitch or something that makes the car faster, and if not, why are they all the same?
- 1,382
- Bristol, England
- Smuttysy
Apologies for not responding sooner, this thread has kinda fallen away from my attention span recently,,,
Make sure that your car is fully run in, as the ratios can be different depending on the power availability. The box for the GTR was put together with a car with 280 miles on the clock and 954bhp. If it's less than this the values stated may not be available.
I use the same transmission ratios across all my 5 and 6 speed (and to a lesser extent 7 speed) transmission cars without any issues, as the final drive and launch gearing are the only real ratios that need to be varied by car to match the available power and drive layouts. All the rest of the ratios are perfectly evenly spaced, and will keep you in the top end of the rev range, unless you mess the final drive up too much.
I find them incredibly versatile, for example, a general FF or FR car with reasonable power tends to wheelspin, so the longest value for 1st gear is advisable, whereas a 4wd car with a 40/60 split will require a shorter 1st gear to launch with any ferocity, so 2.500 or above is generally my advice. All the other gears fall sweetly into place.
I don't have one that I've put together myself, as I too find it a bit of a (you know what) but I have used one which I found via the tuning guide sticky (back on the Tuning threads menu) which tempers some of the handling issues, but you'll still need some bravery pills in order to take it anywhere!
I'll get back to you with the details of the tune at a later date.
Make sure that your car is fully run in, as the ratios can be different depending on the power availability. The box for the GTR was put together with a car with 280 miles on the clock and 954bhp. If it's less than this the values stated may not be available.
I use the same transmission ratios across all my 5 and 6 speed (and to a lesser extent 7 speed) transmission cars without any issues, as the final drive and launch gearing are the only real ratios that need to be varied by car to match the available power and drive layouts. All the rest of the ratios are perfectly evenly spaced, and will keep you in the top end of the rev range, unless you mess the final drive up too much.
I find them incredibly versatile, for example, a general FF or FR car with reasonable power tends to wheelspin, so the longest value for 1st gear is advisable, whereas a 4wd car with a 40/60 split will require a shorter 1st gear to launch with any ferocity, so 2.500 or above is generally my advice. All the other gears fall sweetly into place.
I don't have one that I've put together myself, as I too find it a bit of a (you know what) but I have used one which I found via the tuning guide sticky (back on the Tuning threads menu) which tempers some of the handling issues, but you'll still need some bravery pills in order to take it anywhere!
I'll get back to you with the details of the tune at a later date.
- 99
- scotland
- funkymcmonkey
BMW M3 GTR
Not one of my favourite cars, but an impressive ground-covering vehicle nonetheless. If you want this car to go even faster don't forget to wear a branded shirt, designer sunglasses and a bluetooth headset. Also remember that as a BMW driver, no other driver exists on the road, so feel free to cut people up.
Tune Origins.
Suspension - Praiano
Transmission - Paiano (Modified to suit)
The Extras.
Purchase everything for this car, EXCEPT the Rigidity Improvement. (Wing is optional, but not strictly necessary)
(Engine rebuild and Rigidity Refresh as required)
Racing Soft Tyres fitted
Finished car specs
Max Power - 543BHP
Weight - 1124Kg
PP - 564
Mileage of test car - 16,482.2 miles
The Settings.
Transmission - Pirhana 6 Gearbox
Set Final drive to 4.980, top speed slider to 217mph
2.394
1.664
1.280
1.019
0.837
0.710
Adjust for each track accordingly using the final drive ratio.
Differential
13/54/44
Suspension
-13.8/-11.6
18.2/15.7
8/3
7/4
6/5
Camber & Toe
1.8/1.6
-0.15/+0.04
Brake Balance - 7/10 (Adjust for your personal preference though)
Assists (Optional)
SRF - On
TCS - Off
ASM - Off
ABS - 1-4
Driving Line - On, but only as braking reference points
Tests
6:53.1xx
1:02.2xx
1:23.9xx
SRF Off HSR test - TBC
*All times tested include SRF on and ABS, because I haven't got the talent to carry those times without. This also shows the potential of the car, rather than my abilities. Also, I only have a DS3, so don't have the same level of control as you would have from using a wheel and pedals set.*
your gearing doesnt add up in mine
- 1,382
- Bristol, England
- Smuttysy
As in, you can't get the same values? If the power of the car is different (from higher or lower mileage, power limiting etc) the initial final drive ratio setting will give you completely different ratios, and you'll need to adjust for accordingly.
The details of how I set the six speed gearboxes are in this post
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- 381
- Toronto
- smrtb0mb
Hey I just wanted to mention that I tried your Acura RSX tune on a stock weight/power car on C/S tires (400pp with power limited to 99.9%) It worked really well for me! Got rid of some of that FF understeer, but still really easy and smooth to drive. I think it would've kicked some ass in that 400pp shootout a while back as the car itself is unusually fast for a 400pp car.
- 1,382
- Bristol, England
- Smuttysy
My Personal Drift Setup
Further example videos in this thread.
*DISCLAIMER*
Now everybody from the "elitist" sector of the drifting community will absolutely blast me to pieces for this, with all sorts of comments about how every car reacts differently and should be tuned accordingly. Well, I'm sorry to say that I have found this to be untrue, for the most part, as I have been using an almost identical setup across all my driftables, including 4wd cars. (let the bickering begin about whether 4wd cars are actually "drifting" or some other definition)
These setups are meant for just having fun whilst billowing trails of smoke behind you. The key word there is "fun". If you're looking for something to use as part of an event or competition then these may not be suitable. If you want something that does the job, i.e. get the rear end out and is controllable when it is stuck out there, then carry on reading.
Now for the details...
The base for this is very simple, and follows a pattern that can easily be transferred between models. All tuning parts should be added, with the exception of rigidity improvement, which although I haven't tested, may have a negative effect on the cars.
Once you have your car prepped to it's highest levels follow on with this:
Aerodynamics - Set to their lowest values (where applicable)
Transmission - Set for around 200mph maximum (vary for tighter circuits and obviously lower powered cars)
Differential - 13/54/44
*4wd cars only*
Differential settings
5 / 13
5 / 54
41 / 44
Torque Split - 10/90
(Obviously with no drivetrain swaps or front driveshaft disconnects this is the closest to an FR conversion we can get in the game)
Now for the suspension. Lower the car to the floor, spring rate we'll come back to, but for now here's the rest of the settings:
Damper Extension - 10 / 10
Damper Compression - 9 / 9
Anti-Roll - 1 / 1
Camber - 2.0 / 3.0
Toe - -0.15 / +0.35
Brakes - 7/10
Back to the spring rates. You can either take a look over my Googledocs table of tested cars or use the following formula to find the spring rate: (This also contains the power level I have reduced certain cars to and exhaust fittings for better sound. Although this really is down to personal preference, run with what you feel comfortable with)
Spring rate Front = maximum rate -0.01, Rear = Front new value -1.01
For example, the Maserati Gran Turismo S has a maximum front spring rate of 16.0, so using the above formula the values I would use are F 15.9 R 14.8
If the rear value is not available following this formula, which sometimes happens, you can work out the front rate from the rear rate.
The tyres I generally find comfortable are Comfort Hard on the front, with Comfort Mediums on the rear. I don't think there will be a steep learning curve if you were to change the rears for Hard compound ones though, it's just a preference of mine. Like I say, not for competition purposes, so not following competition rules.
All aids off with the exception of ABS at low levels. This too can be substituted out for the more proficient drifter, or users who are less "stampy" with the brakes.
Using this set of parameters I have found some awesome, yet normally overlooked, cars that perform really well when drifting, sliding or whatever you decide it should be called. There's also some really unconventional cars that will put a smile on your face too using this setup. I generally test each car over a single lap drift of Indy Road Course, and the general score is around 25000 and over, depending on the car. I don't claim to be an amazing drifter, but over the course of my testing I have amassed scores of up to 36000.
Anyway, as I said before, this is just for fun, maybe even rekindling the spark for the game (which is what it has done for me) but definitely not for the ultra serious drifter.
Further example videos in this thread.
*DISCLAIMER*
Now everybody from the "elitist" sector of the drifting community will absolutely blast me to pieces for this, with all sorts of comments about how every car reacts differently and should be tuned accordingly. Well, I'm sorry to say that I have found this to be untrue, for the most part, as I have been using an almost identical setup across all my driftables, including 4wd cars. (let the bickering begin about whether 4wd cars are actually "drifting" or some other definition)
These setups are meant for just having fun whilst billowing trails of smoke behind you. The key word there is "fun". If you're looking for something to use as part of an event or competition then these may not be suitable. If you want something that does the job, i.e. get the rear end out and is controllable when it is stuck out there, then carry on reading.
Now for the details...
The base for this is very simple, and follows a pattern that can easily be transferred between models. All tuning parts should be added, with the exception of rigidity improvement, which although I haven't tested, may have a negative effect on the cars.
Once you have your car prepped to it's highest levels follow on with this:
Aerodynamics - Set to their lowest values (where applicable)
Transmission - Set for around 200mph maximum (vary for tighter circuits and obviously lower powered cars)
Differential - 13/54/44
*4wd cars only*
Differential settings
5 / 13
5 / 54
41 / 44
Torque Split - 10/90
(Obviously with no drivetrain swaps or front driveshaft disconnects this is the closest to an FR conversion we can get in the game)
Now for the suspension. Lower the car to the floor, spring rate we'll come back to, but for now here's the rest of the settings:
Damper Extension - 10 / 10
Damper Compression - 9 / 9
Anti-Roll - 1 / 1
Camber - 2.0 / 3.0
Toe - -0.15 / +0.35
Brakes - 7/10
Back to the spring rates. You can either take a look over my Googledocs table of tested cars or use the following formula to find the spring rate: (This also contains the power level I have reduced certain cars to and exhaust fittings for better sound. Although this really is down to personal preference, run with what you feel comfortable with)
Spring rate Front = maximum rate -0.01, Rear = Front new value -1.01
For example, the Maserati Gran Turismo S has a maximum front spring rate of 16.0, so using the above formula the values I would use are F 15.9 R 14.8
If the rear value is not available following this formula, which sometimes happens, you can work out the front rate from the rear rate.
The tyres I generally find comfortable are Comfort Hard on the front, with Comfort Mediums on the rear. I don't think there will be a steep learning curve if you were to change the rears for Hard compound ones though, it's just a preference of mine. Like I say, not for competition purposes, so not following competition rules.
All aids off with the exception of ABS at low levels. This too can be substituted out for the more proficient drifter, or users who are less "stampy" with the brakes.
Using this set of parameters I have found some awesome, yet normally overlooked, cars that perform really well when drifting, sliding or whatever you decide it should be called. There's also some really unconventional cars that will put a smile on your face too using this setup. I generally test each car over a single lap drift of Indy Road Course, and the general score is around 25000 and over, depending on the car. I don't claim to be an amazing drifter, but over the course of my testing I have amassed scores of up to 36000.
Anyway, as I said before, this is just for fun, maybe even rekindling the spark for the game (which is what it has done for me) but definitely not for the ultra serious drifter.
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- 1,382
- Bristol, England
- Smuttysy
Now I know I've said this before, but this time it's absolute and final. I'm wrapping this up and rolling down the shutters. No turning back, I'm outta here!
The reason for this is mostly down to the fact that almost every tune I have published has been rendered pointless by the numerous changes to the physics over the updates following their publishing. Now although this isn't really a massive sticking point, it does however sting a bit when you put in the time and effort to make the cars feel just right, and then overnight the entire thing changes so much as to make it worse than it was before you started working on it.
The second reason is that I am now using a single suspension setup across every single car in my garage, and regardless of displacement, drive layout and tuning level it works for me. Now there will no doubt be tonnes of people who will call BS on this, stating that every car needs special tweaks to get the best out of it, and that's fine, you're entitled to your own opinion, but over the course of my tests this current setup is pretty much flawless. (Again, for my personal driving style)
So as of this moment on I will no longer be ad-hoc posting new tunes to my garage, but am willing to help out with any requests for specific cars that you may have.
And finally, a thank you to all who have supported me during this adventure, and to all who have used these tunes I hope they've served you well. I'm off to put my MR tune on a FF car, (not even joking!)
Goodnight, and sleep well
The reason for this is mostly down to the fact that almost every tune I have published has been rendered pointless by the numerous changes to the physics over the updates following their publishing. Now although this isn't really a massive sticking point, it does however sting a bit when you put in the time and effort to make the cars feel just right, and then overnight the entire thing changes so much as to make it worse than it was before you started working on it.
The second reason is that I am now using a single suspension setup across every single car in my garage, and regardless of displacement, drive layout and tuning level it works for me. Now there will no doubt be tonnes of people who will call BS on this, stating that every car needs special tweaks to get the best out of it, and that's fine, you're entitled to your own opinion, but over the course of my tests this current setup is pretty much flawless. (Again, for my personal driving style)
So as of this moment on I will no longer be ad-hoc posting new tunes to my garage, but am willing to help out with any requests for specific cars that you may have.
And finally, a thank you to all who have supported me during this adventure, and to all who have used these tunes I hope they've served you well. I'm off to put my MR tune on a FF car, (not even joking!)
Goodnight, and sleep well
- 1
- United States
Bad ass tune!!
