RF Dongle Disconnect (Fanatec)

  • Thread starter Schmo
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Schmo

Schmo

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MrSchmo
I'm using the Fanatec PWTS, works wonders except the fact the RF dongle disconnects all the time. Before I thought it was due to long play times, but its doing it in the first few mins of playing.

I've a narrowed it down to turns, and usually the same turns which makes me think its the game (in a strange way). I'm doing the licenses and it disconnects on the same turn everytime.

I never got this on Prologue, which again makes me think its GT5. Anyone else have this issue? Or know what I can do about it. (Besides the obvoius to wire it)
 
Which turns do you notice this? I haven't had a single wireless issue with this wheel with any game.
 
It wont do it every time. Before it would do it randomly, but then I was try to gold all the licenses and repeating the same turn over and over it would disconnect in the same turn everytime. But that may be coincidence. I think its just input altogether. Now if I press on the gas, it goes out.

I think my dongle is mess up.
 
The wireless connection can be influenced by many factors and other devices. If you have the chance, try to reduce the distance to your wheel with a USB extension cable.
 
Do you have your dongle plugged into a non-powered hub?

I have a little hub that fits into one of the PS3 USB ports and expands it to 3. When I had my dongle plugged into that I was having the exact same issue of disconnects, especially on turns. I have now plugged it into a standard powered USB hub, and I have not had any more problems.

If you do not have a powered hub, then at least make sure that the dongle is plugged directly into the PS3.
 
You are not the only one having problems with this fanatec rf dongle. I noticed the same problem when I was playing GT5 yesterday on my Fanatec PWTS. The dongle disconnects from the wheel from time to time for a second or so (even little led lights on the usb dongle die). And strange thing, but I also was replaying some challenges from licenses when I noticed it. After that I connected the wheel via usb cable and played that way with no problems. But I got the dongle to play it wirelessly... I don't know if it has anything to do with it but two days ago I upgraded the wheel and then the dongle to the latest firmware. Haven't really used the dongle before I got gt5 few days ago. I would probably have to try the dongle on other ps3 games and see if the problems exists there as well.
 
Fanatec...
The wireless connection can be influenced by many factors and other devices. If you have the chance, try to reduce the distance to your wheel with a USB extension cable.
Click to expand...
I dont have much that could interfere with it. Its plugged directly into my PS3 and is only about 5 feet from the wheel. I will try using a Usb cable as an extender, see if that gives it better range.

Thanks.
versapak
Do you have your dongle plugged into a non-powered hub?

I have a little hub that fits into one of the PS3 USB ports and expands it to 3. When I had my dongle plugged into that I was having the exact same issue of disconnects, especially on turns. I have now plugged it into a standard powered USB hub, and I have not had any more problems.

If you do not have a powered hub, then at least make sure that the dongle is plugged directly into the PS3.
Click to expand...
No, no hub. Directly in the PS3. Its what of those old ones, fat 60gig, dont know if that makes a difference. Maybe I'll try a different port. I have it connected with a USB cable at the moment, would just be nice to utilize the wireless feature.
 
Schmo
I dont have much that could interfere with it. Its plugged directly into my PS3 and is only about 5 feet from the wheel. I will try using a Usb cable as an extender, see if that gives it better range.

Thanks.

No, no hub. Directly in the PS3. Its what of those old ones, fat 60gig, dont know if that makes a difference. Maybe I'll try a different port. I have it connected with a USB cable at the moment, would just be nice to utilize the wireless feature.
Click to expand...

Yeah...

Changing to the powered hub only seemed to have fixed the problem. After a while I was having issues again. :(

I have not had any problems using the dongle with any other racing games on PS3 though, so it very well could be the game causing the issue somehow.
 
Has anyone ever found a solution to the dongle dropping connectivity? I am having the same problem after never noticing this before. I have noticed the red light on the dongle goes out and the feedback has a "seizure" when it drops.
 
A couple of WLR users are having this problem too. I'll refer them to this thread... but in the meantime has anyone got any closer to fixing the issue if it recurs even after following the USB port advice in the early posts?
 
I'm using a dongle for my GT2, no disconnects in two weeks of use. Somebody said that it's important not to have anything else plugged into USB ports on the console, don't know if that's true or not.
 
Spyder-Si
I'm using a dongle for my GT2, no disconnects in two weeks of use. Somebody said that it's important not to have anything else plugged into USB ports on the console, don't know if that's true or not.
Click to expand...

Ugh that's not good. I was about to order the dongle for the GT2 but I use my headphones (Astro A40's with Mixamp) a lot at night. Does anyone have usb powered headphones they could test with the dongle and GT5?
 
I was one of the guys mentioning more disconnects with other USB devices plugged into the PS3 (for example a wired Logitech USB headset). No issues with the PWTS, but my GT2 seems more sensitive. If I plug my devices into a powered USB hub, I don't have disconnection issues.
 
So ..... are you ready for a long read!!! I have a theory!!! I'm using the PWTS with Clubsport Pedals and firmware 681.

I've connected my wheel via the dongle. It runs fine for a time, but then starts to lose input. It never disconnects, the PS3 lights remain lit on the buttons. The loss in input is just for a split second, after which all is fine again for a while. As time goes on, the problem occurs more frequently.

So I tried connecting the PWTS using the USB cable. Again, all is fine for a while, but then I lose all inputs from the wheel and pedals. All the PS3 lights remain lit on the buttons, which again implies that the wheel is still connected to the PS3. HOWEVER, when connected by cable, if the input is lost, it does not return like it does with the Dongle. The only way to regain input is to power the wheel down, switch it back on again and then re-connect it to the PS3.

All of this VERY seriously hampers any online play!!!

If my wheel is connected by cable, I seem to get a lot more feedback through it. The wheel wobbles when the car is stationary or on a straight, as if it's over-correcting itself while trying to straighten itself. All of this extra activity must be working the motors harder, generating heat!! The one pattern I have noticed is that the problem only seems to occur after about 1 to 1.5 hours of use ...... and the silver cover of the wheel is generally quite warm. The internal fans do work, I can hear them switching on and off as the temperature changes, but it does seem that heat is playing a part in the problem I'm experiencing.

I've written to Fanatec in the hope that thay can find a solution!!
 
Spyder-Si
I'm using a dongle for my GT2, no disconnects in two weeks of use. Somebody said that it's important not to have anything else plugged into USB ports on the console, don't know if that's true or not.
Click to expand...

I have my dongle connected and the other 3 USB ports are all full, with a memory stick, a USB keyboard and the PS3 charger cable in the other. I have had no issues at all. The PS3 is only about 12 inches away from the wheel though, on the same table the wheel is bolted to.
 
WhytedXL
So ..... are you ready for a long read!!! I have a theory!!! I'm using the PWTS with Clubsport Pedals and firmware 681.

I've connected my wheel via the dongle. It runs fine for a time, but then starts to lose input. It never disconnects, the PS3 lights remain lit on the buttons. The loss in input is just for a split second, after which all is fine again for a while. As time goes on, the problem occurs more frequently.

So I tried connecting the PWTS using the USB cable. Again, all is fine for a while, but then I lose all inputs from the wheel and pedals. All the PS3 lights remain lit on the buttons, which again implies that the wheel is still connected to the PS3. HOWEVER, when connected by cable, if the input is lost, it does not return like it does with the Dongle. The only way to regain input is to power the wheel down, switch it back on again and then re-connect it to the PS3.

All of this VERY seriously hampers any online play!!!

If my wheel is connected by cable, I seem to get a lot more feedback through it. The wheel wobbles when the car is stationary or on a straight, as if it's over-correcting itself while trying to straighten itself. All of this extra activity must be working the motors harder, generating heat!! The one pattern I have noticed is that the problem only seems to occur after about 1 to 1.5 hours of use ...... and the silver cover of the wheel is generally quite warm. The internal fans do work, I can hear them switching on and off as the temperature changes, but it does seem that heat is playing a part in the problem I'm experiencing.

I've written to Fanatec in the hope that thay can find a solution!!
Click to expand...

Sounds like you have a faulty wheel that is overheating and causing the wheel to malfunction. Is your fan working properly? If you have a large room type fan on a stand you can turn it on high and point it at the Fanatec wheel and see if this issue is still there and if it's not then you know immediately it's a overheating issue.
 
Same problem as described, short disconnects with dongle. I "solved" the problem by using the a USB cable, haven't had any intermittent time outs since.

The problem remains that the wheel gives momentary jerks to the wheel, like someone grabbing and turning the wheel. Just a "jerk" generally on sweepers (it seems).

I confess my experience with Fanatec anti-support has about worn me out. Guess I'll have to try getting support again....
 
Rusty ...... you can tame the wheel jerks by adjusting the Linearity settin (LIN) in the wheel's tuning menu. (This is only available in the newer firmwares, but I know your wheel has a new enough firmware)

Having spoken to Fanatec, they've given me details on how to "open" the wheel casing up to allow better airflow through the internal components. (I'm not allowed to share this info here, but Fanatec's Support guy was really good on the phone and followed up with a detailed e-mail) The problem now is that the wheel remains so cool that the fans never start up, so I have no idea whether they're working or not. I've got a marathon gaming session tonight, so I'll give it a good run and let you know whether it dosconnects or not. But for now, my problems do look like they were more to do with overheating than anything else!!!
 
Experienced my first dongle drop outs tonight. I hope it's not related to my wheel overheating... the case doesn't feel warm to touch at all.

Update: I removed all other USB devices and now it's working fine again.
 
Last edited:
Tuck !
Still any solutions for this or is it a problem of the dongle itself? My wheel is now pretty much doing the same thing
Click to expand...

It seems the best way to solve this is to put a usb cable between the the dongle and the PS3. Mine rig is close enough to the PS3 so I just hard wire it now.
 
ALL... same issue and after 10 hours I have cracked it (created log in just to spread the news)

I updated the turbo s wheel to firware 681 and I too got the dongle issue where it cuts out (usually in third gear, accelerating out of a corner)

To solve this I removed the dongle and did the update on its firware (contained in the 681 down load) which initially I thought was a way to update the wheel with the dongle and not the usb cable.

Anyway, 10 celebration laps of Suzuka later I have no issues. All you need to do is update the dongle firmware... 2 min job and instructions with the 681 firmware down load.
 
rosbos
ALL... same issue and after 10 hours I have cracked it (created log in just to spread the news)

I updated the turbo s wheel to firware 681 and I too got the dongle issue where it cuts out (usually in third gear, accelerating out of a corner)

To solve this I removed the dongle and did the update on its firware (contained in the 681 down load) which initially I thought was a way to update the wheel with the dongle and not the usb cable.

Anyway, 10 celebration laps of Suzuka later I have no issues. All you need to do is update the dongle firmware... 2 min job and instructions with the 681 firmware down load.
Click to expand...

I normally prefer the usb cable as I still think there is a minor drop is resolution(wheel refresh) when running wireless. I noticed a tiny drop-out randomly in F1 2011, and almost constant drop-outs in Dirt 3 and GT5, seems to only happen when you jerk the wheel around, or have any sort of quick turn in. I did the bootloader reflash and there is no change. THis makes me think that we all have similar issues but different causes. I'm scratching my head on this one..... :( I'd use the usb cable but over the years the port is too loose to hold it properly. :ouch:
 

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