Fanatec issue (911 Turbo S Wheel and Clubsport Pedals)

  • Thread starter akeyX
  • 52 comments
  • 10,572 views
akeyX

akeyX

124
akeyX
Hi guys,

as mentioned above. I play GT5 with Fanatec 911 Turbo-S wheel and Fanatec Clubsport Pedals. But I have huge problems with the deadzone of the brakes. While driving, I always have light pressure on brakes, even Im not using them. The car is constantly braking, not much though. I tried restarting the wheel, but this helps only temporarly and after some minutes the problem occurs again. Due the fact that GT5 offers no support for Fanatec Wheels, Im not sure if the problem can be solved. Any ideas?


Thanks in advance,
Alex
 
Adjust potentiometer on pedals? ABS in game/or on wheel?
Did you upgrade software for wheel? ......I have the GT3 wheel with no problems.
 
Try unplugging the pedals from the wheel, and then hook them back up. If that doesn't help, I believe there is a firmware update for the CSP's but I'm not sure what they fix.

You're not the first to mention this problem -- check out the Steering Wheels and Cockpit forum here, and also look at www.911wheel.de
 
I have made a small video to show you the problem.


LINK

So far, I have updated both PWTS and CSP (10% Deadzone FW) to the newest firmware as well as unplugged and cleaned every cable. Nothing helped so far. I tried to contact Fanatec but without any response. Also the 911wheel Forum doesnt offer any tips. This is so frustrating :grumpy:
 
Have you checked the small cable that links the PCB on the pedals to the load cell. THere is a small connector that can sometimes work loose and cause these problems. I'm not talking about the cable that connects the pedals to the wheel but the small cable that comes from each pedal to the PCB under the black plate on the base of the pedals.
 
My friend has the Fanatec Turbo S, and has had nothing but problems with it in GT5. It's undriveable for him due to the deadzone steering force and other issues. He's tried updating the software and other things you have done but still has the problem. He may send it back.

It's a shame, because the Fanatec is a great, high quality wheel. It's just that it was not designed specifically to work with GT5 and it's force feedback modules/algorithms. In it's current state, my friends wheel is not driveable in the game. I hope Fanatec fixes the issue.
 
akeyX
I have checked both. I also played around with the potentiometer, but no success so far.
Click to expand...

THat's a shame, guess you need to contact Fanatec then as it sounds like there is a problem with the pedals.

Forcednduckshn
My friend has the Fanatec Turbo S, and has had nothing but problems with it in GT5. It's undriveable for him due to the deadzone steering force and other issues. He's tried updating the software and other things you have done but still has the problem. He may send it back.

It's a shame, because the Fanatec is a great, high quality wheel. It's just that it was not designed specifically to work with GT5 and it's force feedback modules/algorithms. In it's current state, my friends wheel is not driveable in the game. I hope Fanatec fixes the issue.
Click to expand...

Fanatec and clubsports here and no problems. Tell him to make sure he has drift turned down as low as possible, preferably 0. And if thats still no good a deadzone of 10 should sort it out. Great wheel to use in game for me and the Inside Sim Racing team said that if you use clubsports with GT5 you are effectively cheating as they are so much better than any other pedals out there.
 
Forcednduckshn
My friend has the Fanatec Turbo S, and has had nothing but problems with it in GT5. It's undriveable for him due to the deadzone steering force and other issues. He's tried updating the software and other things you have done but still has the problem. He may send it back.

It's a shame, because the Fanatec is a great, high quality wheel. It's just that it was not designed specifically to work with GT5 and it's force feedback modules/algorithms. In it's current state, my friends wheel is not driveable in the game. I hope Fanatec fixes the issue.
Click to expand...

My Turbo S works perfect in GT5. The G25 has a deadzone and thats what insidesimracing found too although its not a huge problem for the G25. If you're on about the Fanatec needing a deadzone then set it to 10 and that solves any wheel rocking side to side and gives a deadzone that the Logitech inherently have.

Must be a fault with the wheel, I can't fault my Turbo S in GT5 and I own a G25. Had plenty of play time with GT5P and G25 as well.
 
I was having a similar problem with my PWTS and the standard pedals. The potenitometer was apparently not seated properly. Prior to my repairing this I would see some red on the brake indicator while driving without the foot on the brake. Sometimes restarting the wheel would help for a while. I was also seeing some flakiness when I applied the brake. The red bar would be a bit irratic and often would not go all the way to the top stopping at around 75% even when full on the brake.

I was also having some throttle issues where the throttle would fail to give me 100% throttle at times stopping at 95-98%. Sometimes a reboot of the wheel helped other times not.

I opened the pedal base and carefully put everything back together and both the brake and the throttle were working flawlessy for a while. The last few days though I have noticed the brake is not going to 100% again but as of yet I have not experienced any more issues with the throttle and the brake while not going a full 100% is not dragging and is still provising enough braking to be competive in races.

Looks like I will be opening it up again soon though.
 
HBR-Roadhog
I was having a similar problem with my PWTS and the standard pedals. The potenitometer was apparently not seated properly. Prior to my repairing this I would see some red on the brake indicator while driving without the foot on the brake. Sometimes restarting the wheel would help for a while. I was also seeing some flakiness when I applied the brake. The red bar would be a bit irratic and often would not go all the way to the top stopping at around 75% even when full on the brake.

I was also having some throttle issues where the throttle would fail to give me 100% throttle at times stopping at 95-98%. Sometimes a reboot of the wheel helped other times not.

I opened the pedal base and carefully put everything back together and both the brake and the throttle were working flawlessy for a while. The last few days though I have noticed the brake is not going to 100% again but as of yet I have not experienced any more issues with the throttle and the brake while not going a full 100% is not dragging and is still provising enough braking to be competive in races.

Looks like I will be opening it up again soon though.
Click to expand...

thats the exact same issue I have. What do you mean with open up? Disassembled the brake/load-cell and potentiometer and cleaned everything ?
 
I was going to get some Clubsports soon too. Hopefully its easily sorted

The Fanatec standard pedals have this problem with the potentiometer flexing and the brake coming on slightly.

I asked Thomas if a pedal deadzone could be done through the wheel to stop the brake/throttle staying on a fraction and Thomas said yes but doesn't see many using it, but it can help many people I see posting who have slightly sticky pedals or flexing issues.

Fantec is so pricise, everything has to be perfect. My G25 pedals where sticking using the Fanatec on GT5 demo. Same pedals with my G25 wheel and no probs. I've cleaned them out since and they work great with my Turbo S but it shows you Logitech have pedal and steering deadzones that Fanatec don't My g25 pedals have to be like new or they stick the brake on slightly. Logitech must put these in to save any problems. Fanatec then added a deadzone setting to the steering.
 
Last edited:
so far, the brake has stopped working (completely). I have the strange feeling that the load-cell was kind of "dying" during last couple of days. Thats so sad because x-mas vacation is coming and I was so excited to have free-time to play GT5 :( I will try to contact Thomas from Fanatec.
 
I briefly had this issue and it went away. I suspect it was some cross talk from the clutch, since the problem went away after we stomped on the clutch a few times, and reconnected the CSP.
 
I have Turbo S and Clubsoort's, I have had this problem a couple times but if I just turn off the wheel and turn it back on it goes away. It only happens when I first start playing, but it has only happened a handfull of times.
 
I'm a bit worried to read all these problems with the Clubsport pedals. My standard pedals started having the unwanted brake input problem after just 2 weeks of use. Since there is apparently no permanent fix for this, I was hoping that upgrading to Clubsports would be the right thing to do but I'm not sure anymore. Of course the upgrade would only be possible IF I ever get a reply from Fanatec's costumer service. It's quite disappointing that a company that sells products at this price range doesn't care about its customers at all and has such terrible support.
 
I have experienced the same problem about 3-4 times.
After i dissembled the the pedals and add some lubricant in the tubes, the problem solved (till now).
It could be the small part, made by plastic foam, laying between the load cell and the pedal's piston (its hard for me to explain it wright in English). In my pedals, this part is a kind of damaged, from the one side (i suppose because of the pressure).
Anyway after applying lubricant the problem disappeared.
I think it worth's to dig a little and have a look inside the pedal system...
 
Mars Attacks
I have experienced the same problem about 3-4 times.
After i dissembled the the pedals and add some lubricant in the tubes, the problem solved (till now).
It could be the small part, made by plastic foam, laying between the load cell and the pedal's piston (its hard for me to explain it wright in English). In my pedals, this part is a kind of damaged, from the one side (i suppose because of the pressure).
Anyway after applying lubricant the problem disappeared.
I think it worth's to dig a little and have a look inside the pedal system...
Click to expand...

Basically, you have dissembled the brakes and put lubi in between the foam and the piston as well as the top of the piston which has contact to the load-cell ?
 
Be careful what kind of lubricant you use in the foam as some will dry the foam up. The CSP tuning kit comes with two bottles of lube, one for the metal surfaces and one for the foam. I myself am not certain what type to use in the foam as i don't even have my CSP yet but i would be trying to find out before using just any old lube.

PS: Apparently you should use dry lube with the foam like they use on bicycles, like this:

http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/teflon-plus-lube.htm

PS: once more,lol. I found this video showing Thomas tune a set of CSP, he mentions the lube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54iQktxDQOM
 
Last edited:
can somebody please upload a picture of the CSP PCB and how the cables are connected (were the potenzimeter and load cell are plugged in).
The reason is, I have dissambled the cables and now Im not sure which way the connecters are connected to the PCB. Thank you so much!
 
@tvman: thanks for the hint!

@JoshUK: I would send you a pic but unforunately im not a home, will be back in a couple of days. Maybe someone else can help you out.
 
Problem is fixed. Reason for this issue was a faulty load-cell. Today I have received a new LC from Fanatec and everything works perfect.

I wanna thank Thomas and Armin for their support as well as everybody else who gave advices.

btw. I sent a PM to Thomas on Thuesday evening and received the new LC today! Just perfect, you saved my holidays :)
 
I just fixed this problem on my clubsport pedals.

The potentiometer was dirty, so I cleaned it with electrical contact cleaner.
If you look at the back of the potentiometer, there's a small notch on the outside edge, and you can spray the cleaner in there. Turn the dial a full turn and back while you're spraying it, work it a little, and it should work just like new. I had to repeat this several times before the problem was completely fixed.

I'm thrilled. I signed up for this forum just to pass along the info.

(oh, the deadzone update appeared to do nothing for my pedals. After completing the update, the problem was exactly the same as before. But now that I cleaned the potentiometer, the deadzone is very apparent and works well.)

the theory:

the circuitry of the pedal works backwards from how you would think it would (atleast from what I assumed). If you disconnect the load cell from the circuitry, (it has a red, white, and black wire), the pedal reads full brake force. This indicates to me that the brake is essentially a switch which is by default in the "on" position, and it is in the "off" position when fully depressed (open circuit/ no connection). To me this means that when you press the brake pedal, you are creating progressively more and more resistance until the circuit is broken. And if this is true, a false brake input will result if there is any unintended resistance in any part of the brake circuit. In other words, if the potentiometer is dirty, it creates more resistance than the circuit is designed for, making the game system think the pedal is being pressed when it isn't.

The deadzone fix provided by Fanatec works for some people because it compensates for a small amount of unintended resistance within the brake circuit. But it will only fix the problem if the extra resistance from the potentiometer is less than the amount the deadzone is meant to compensate for.

I doubt that the new load cell is a permanent fix. My guess is the resistance of the new load cell might be slightly less than the old one, giving you a little headroom and hiding the real problem. If it was the same problem where GT5 shows a very small amount of phantom brake input, I'm fairly certain that most cases of this are caused by the potentiometer.

And it's all happening because the pedals are designed to be insanely sensitive, which is why we bought the wheels in the first place....
 
Last edited:

Similar threads

W
Thrustmaster T300 wheelbase with Fanatec Clubsport V3 pedals?
Replies
22
Views
4K
Oshawa-Joe
Oshawa-Joe
Q
Fanatec Clubsport Porsche 911 GT3 Wheel with Drive Hub unit for PS Elite CSL Inquiry
Replies
1
Views
1K
super_gt
super_gt
Clinton Ducks
Full Sized Wheel, Pedals and Shifters?
Replies
5
Views
1K
hrtrob
H
M
Is CSL Elite LC pedal set compatible with older Porsche 911 GT3 RS V2 wheel?
Replies
4
Views
2K
MettaV
M
super_gt
Fanatec Button Caps and Sticker Set
Replies
3
Views
9K
super_gt
super_gt

Latest Posts

Back