How To Set Gear Ratios (Here's How)

  • Thread starter Gyro1780
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Gyro1780

Gyro1780

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Spoox777
I've noticed people asking how to set up the gear ratio's for their tunes. Well this is how i do it. I've found that it works well & improves lap times on any track compared to having the standard ratios. Here's how.

Example. I have here the Audi RS 6 Avant '08 & i want a top speed of 230mph.

1: Go to "Transmission Settings" on the car your tuning.

2: Press "Reset To Default"

3: Enter in your "Max Speed" (For example 230mph)

4: Now you should have what i call the standard ratio's set once you've entered your "Max Speed" Here is the Audi's list below.

1st Gear: 3.708
2nd Gear: 2.410
3rd Gear: 1.722
4th Gear: 1.294
5th Gear: 1.023
6th Gear: 0.849
Final Gear: 3.317

5: Now what you do is take a calculator & enter in the standard ratio for First Gear (3.708).

6: Then take away from 3.708 the lowest possible setting for that gear (Audi is 3.188)

7: Press = and you have 0.52 then divide this by 2 leaving you 0.26. Write down 0.26.

8: Clear the calculator & re-enter the original ratio again which for the Audi is 3.708 then take away the 0.26 you wrote down. Press = & that gives you 3.448 which is your new ratio for First Gear.

So basically this is the sum for First Gear
3.708 - 3.188 = 0.52 ÷ 2 = 0.26 (Clear Calculator)
3.708 - 0.26 = 3.448 (Your New Ratio)

9: Repeat this for Gears 2, 3, 4, 5 & 6. Using the original ratios of each Gear.

PLEASE NOTE: When tuning 4th Gear you'll notice that 1.294 (Original ratio for 4th gear) - 1.185 (Lowest possible setting) = 0.109 divided by 2 = 0.0545. What you need to do is then round up 0.0545 to 0.055.

10: Now for the "Final Gear". You will notice that there are 2 "Max Speed" windows. The one at the bottom by the "Reset To Default" & the top one by the ratio indicator. You will notice that these have different speeds in. So what you do with the final gear is adjust it so that it matches the same as your "Max Speed" setting at the bottom. (230mph)


That's it. Your done. I've tried to explain this in the most simple way i could.
Obviously you pick you own top speed to match the car your tuning. I just used 230mph as an example.

Hope it helps.
 
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That is a very interesting approach to gear tuning. Unique that is for sure.

I haven't checked but does the auto tuner take into account power? Like will 2 clicks left from default give a different result then 2 clicks left from default on the same car but with a different level of hp?
 
Nice trick. What he's basically done is found a systematic way to shorten the gears while maintaining appropriate gear ratios for the HP/torque curves.
 
Schadenfreude13
Nice trick. What he's basically done is found a systematic way to shorten the gears while maintaining appropriate gear ratios for the HP/torque curves.
Click to expand...

How so? Just curious how the calculation factors in hp/torque.

It seems like a systematic way to shorten the gears while stretching the top speed without factoring in hp/torque, RPM,, powerband, or gear speed.

Not saying it doesn't work out for him. It's just a trick to bypass proper tuning, not taking into account any of the primary factors involved in actually tuning.
 
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Xr3CaRstI
How so? Just curious how the calculation factors in hp/torque.

It seems like a systematic way to shorten the gears while stretching the top speed without factoring in hp/torque, RPM,, powerband, or gear speed.

Not saying it doesn't work out for him. It's just a trick to bypass proper tuning, not taking into account any of the primary factors involved in actually tuning.
Click to expand...

I agree with Xr3, it completely disregards the powerband.
And there are far easier, quicker, non calculation based ways to do this.
 
Adrenaline
I agree with Xr3, it completely disregards the powerband.
And there are far easier, quicker, non calculation based ways to do this.
Click to expand...

What I like was his approach and presentation: Easy to read and follow. Adrenaline, if it's not too much trouble, would you mind sharing your easier, quicker and non calculation ways?

I race in a league with 450pp limit and I am constantly getting creamed by guys going way faster in straights :dunce:
 
xonant
What I like was his approach and presentation: Easy to read and follow. Adrenaline, if it's not too much trouble, would you mind sharing your easier, quicker and non calculation ways?

I race in a league with 450pp limit and I am constantly getting creamed by guys going way faster in straights :dunce:
Click to expand...

To be perfectly honest. A car tuned to run the tunnel drags at SSR7 will develop a great gear ratio setup. Then just adjust final drive pending the course you're on.

Gear progression is the key.
 
The quickest way, to help gearing...
Set the Auto Top Speed to the lowest possible, usually 124mph I think?
Then set your Final drive to the lowest (numerically) possible, usually 2.000.

This will give you really close gearing in the transmission, with a top speed around 204mph usually.

There are other ways to help the tranny, which usually you want to make 1st and 2nd as long as possible, 6th as short as possible, and focus on equal spacing between 3rd 4th and 5th, as those are the gears you're mostly using while on track. This is the technique that RKM promotes, but it's a bit more time/effort intensive.
 
Xr3CaRstI
How so? Just curious how the calculation factors in hp/torque.

It seems like a systematic way to shorten the gears while stretching the top speed without factoring in hp/torque, RPM,, powerband, or gear speed.

Not saying it doesn't work out for him. It's just a trick to bypass proper tuning, not taking into account any of the primary factors involved in actually tuning.
Click to expand...

Well then, there's always this method.http://www.ehow.com/how_5673852_gear-ratio-racing-cars.html
 
Schadenfreude13
Well then, there's always this method.http://www.ehow.com/how_5673852_gear-ratio-racing-cars.html
Click to expand...

That's kind of right... 2 issues though.
1) It's track specific. So unless you want to do it for every single track you run, not that great.
2) 'Max RPM' and 'Max Power/Torque' are not the same. If your car redlines at 8000rpm, but your max power is made at 7500rpm, you want to tune the tranny to hit 7500 just before letting off for the corner, not 8000.
 
Adrenaline
The quickest way, to help gearing...
Set the Auto Top Speed to the lowest possible, usually 124mph I think?
Then set your Final drive to the lowest (numerically) possible, usually 2.000.

This will give you really close gearing in the transmission, with a top speed around 204mph usually.

There are other ways to help the tranny, which usually you want to make 1st and 2nd as long as possible, 6th as short as possible, and focus on equal spacing between 3rd 4th and 5th, as those are the gears you're mostly using while on track. This is the technique that RKM promotes, but it's a bit more time/effort intensive.
Click to expand...

Thanks Adrenaline, will give this a shot.
 
Gyro1780
I've noticed people asking how to set up the gear ratio's for their tunes. Well this is how i do it. I've found that it works well & improves lap times on any track compared to having the standard ratios. Here's how.

Example. I have here the Audi RS 6 Avant '08 & i want a top speed of 230mph.

1: Go to "Transmission Settings" on the car your tuning.

2: Press "Reset To Default"

3: Enter in your "Max Speed" (For example 230mph)

4: Now you should have what i call the standard ratio's set once you've entered your "Max Speed" Here is the Audi's list below.

1st Gear: 3.708
2nd Gear: 2.410
3rd Gear: 1.722
4th Gear: 1.294
5th Gear: 1.023
6th Gear: 0.849
Final Gear: 3.317

5: Now what you do is take a calculator & enter in the standard ratio for First Gear (3.708).

6: Then take away from 3.708 the lowest possible setting for that gear (Audi is 3.188)

7: Press = and you have 0.52 then divide this by 2 leaving you 0.26. Write down 0.26.

8: Clear the calculator & re-enter the original ratio again which for the Audi is 3.708 then take away the 0.26 you wrote down. Press = & that gives you 3.448 which is your new ratio for First Gear.

So basically this is the sum for First Gear
3.708 - 3.188 = 0.52 ÷ 2 = 0.26 (Clear Calculator)
3.708 - 0.26 = 3.448 (Your New Ratio)

9: Repeat this for Gears 2, 3, 4, 5 & 6. Using the original ratios of each Gear.

PLEASE NOTE: When tuning 4th Gear you'll notice that 1.294 (Original ratio for 4th gear) - 1.185 (Lowest possible setting) = 0.109 divided by 2 = 0.0545. What you need to do is then round up 0.0545 to 0.055.

10: Now for the "Final Gear". You will notice that there are 2 "Max Speed" windows. The one at the bottom by the "Reset To Default" & the top one by the ratio indicator. You will notice that these have different speeds in. So what you do with the final gear is adjust it so that it matches the same as your "Max Speed" setting at the bottom. (230mph)


That's it. Your done. I've tried to explain this in the most simple way i could.
Obviously you pick you own top speed to match the car your tuning. I just used 230mph as an example.

Hope it helps.[/QUOTE
Thanks for this method.
Click to expand...
 
Gyro1780
I've noticed people asking how to set up the gear ratio's for their tunes. Well this is how i do it. I've found that it works well & improves lap times on any track compared to having the standard ratios. Here's how.

Example. I have here the Audi RS 6 Avant '08 & i want a top speed of 230mph.

1: Go to "Transmission Settings" on the car your tuning.

2: Press "Reset To Default"

3: Enter in your "Max Speed" (For example 230mph)

4: Now you should have what i call the standard ratio's set once you've entered your "Max Speed" Here is the Audi's list below.

1st Gear: 3.708
2nd Gear: 2.410
3rd Gear: 1.722
4th Gear: 1.294
5th Gear: 1.023
6th Gear: 0.849
Final Gear: 3.317

5: Now what you do is take a calculator & enter in the standard ratio for First Gear (3.708).

6: Then take away from 3.708 the lowest possible setting for that gear (Audi is 3.188)

7: Press = and you have 0.52 then divide this by 2 leaving you 0.26. Write down 0.26.

8: Clear the calculator & re-enter the original ratio again which for the Audi is 3.708 then take away the 0.26 you wrote down. Press = & that gives you 3.448 which is your new ratio for First Gear.

So basically this is the sum for First Gear
3.708 - 3.188 = 0.52 ÷ 2 = 0.26 (Clear Calculator)
3.708 - 0.26 = 3.448 (Your New Ratio)

9: Repeat this for Gears 2, 3, 4, 5 & 6. Using the original ratios of each Gear.

PLEASE NOTE: When tuning 4th Gear you'll notice that 1.294 (Original ratio for 4th gear) - 1.185 (Lowest possible setting) = 0.109 divided by 2 = 0.0545. What you need to do is then round up 0.0545 to 0.055.

10: Now for the "Final Gear". You will notice that there are 2 "Max Speed" windows. The one at the bottom by the "Reset To Default" & the top one by the ratio indicator. You will notice that these have different speeds in. So what you do with the final gear is adjust it so that it matches the same as your "Max Speed" setting at the bottom. (230mph)

That's it. Your done. I've tried to explain this in the most simple way i could.
Obviously you pick you own top speed to match the car your tuning. I just used 230mph as an example.

Hope it helps.
Click to expand...

I agree with this to some what. I believe it will work great for a car for most standard tracks. I think if you plan on tuneing with a car for a specific race and track then it's done a little bit different.

You need to figure out what gears you are usually running in the track. Mid range gears, 3rd n 4th or top end gears if the track has lots of straights 5,6,7th gears.

For example my M3 CSL to run on the northern loop I'm constantly in 3rd n 4th gears. The odd time 2nd and 5th. I set these gears to be constantly in the power band and not dropping bellow 6300 Rpms between gears. 5th is a tad long. 6th gear is only made for the last long straight. Tops out at 312km/h.

Op great write up and I think it's a great way to look at setting up gears. Do you know how to tell what gear is your power gear from just looking at the ratios? That will help give you an idea how to set up the gears as well.
 
Adrenaline
2) 'Max RPM' and 'Max Power/Torque' are not the same. If your car redlines at 8000rpm, but your max power is made at 7500rpm, you want to tune the tranny to hit 7500 just before letting off for the corner, not 8000.
Click to expand...

I'm not a tuner nor a transmission expert so I tune based on what seems to makes sense to me...albeit not track tested...lol. My thinking has always been that if each gear operates through a specific range of rpm's you want to maximize total available power through that range. So if a given car operates through say 1500 rpm's before upshifting, you want, within the power curve to have the max power available. For some cars power rises more gently to a peak and then drops of sharply at a certain point, so you want to set it up so you upshift slightly after the peak power. For other cars the rise and fall of the power curve is fairly even and gentle so you'd want to be shifting further along from the peak of power so that when you drop down 1500 revs you are at roughly the same level of power at the lower rev level.

The object for me is to kind of drop a blanket over the peak amount of power available as an average throughout the number of rev's your typical gear uses. For some it's shifting a bit early after the peak, for others it's quite a bit after the peak. When using the engine power reducing feature it often dramatically changes the power curve so max power is flat throughout all the high rev range and you can shift almost without thinking at that point.
 
Johnnypenso
I'm not a tuner nor a transmission expert so I tune based on what seems to makes sense to me...albeit not track tested...lol. My thinking has always been that if each gear operates through a specific range of rpm's you want to maximize total available power through that range. So if a given car operates through say 1500 rpm's before upshifting, you want, within the power curve to have the max power available. For some cars power rises more gently to a peak and then drops of sharply at a certain point, so you want to set it up so you upshift slightly after the peak power. For other cars the rise and fall of the power curve is fairly even and gentle so you'd want to be shifting further along from the peak of power so that when you drop down 1500 revs you are at roughly the same level of power at the lower rev level.

The object for me is to kind of drop a blanket over the peak amount of power available as an average throughout the number of rev's your typical gear uses. For some it's shifting a bit early after the peak, for others it's quite a bit after the peak. When using the engine power reducing feature it often dramatically changes the power curve so max power is flat throughout all the high rev range and you can shift almost without thinking at that point.
Click to expand...

I just made up some quick numbers to make a point as to why some 'programs' aren't as good as they're made out to be. I use automatic, so I've never really had to pay too much attention, but there are threads with much deeper detail, followed by 10 guys saying their method is better, followed by 10 pages of e-peen-ing and nothing ever actually gets proven, and readers never really learn anything valuable in regards to GT5 gear tuning.
 
Adrenaline
I just made up some quick numbers to make a point as to why some 'programs' aren't as good as they're made out to be. I use automatic, so I've never really had to pay too much attention, but there are threads with much deeper detail, followed by 10 guys saying their method is better, followed by 10 pages of e-peen-ing and nothing ever actually gets proven, and readers never really learn anything valuable in regards to GT5 gear tuning.
Click to expand...
I like to believe it's been proven repeatedly that there are many ways to achieve the same gearing, and there is no definitive "fastest" gear set. I think that's been proven every time I've seen it brought up.

Interesting to see the OP's unique approach, while I don't think it's particularly helpful over the tools in the game, it's still shared information.

Does anyone realize the bars going horizontal on the gearing screen each represent 25mph?
 
I like the benefits of tranny braking. It helps rotate the car. Driving MT is more involved, takes more skill to do well. AT is, well, something those who can't handle MT use as a crutch. Faster or not all depends on how cheesy the Driver is. You can cheese right past people in auto, big deal. Auto in GT5 is more like manual shift assist. It's the same as using TCS, ASM, or SRF. Just another assist IMO. If you can't match laps with the assist off, then your Driving Style relies on them. I would rather be slower and assist free, than faster using all the assist I can take advantage of. That's just me though. I play to keep it as real as possible, that is not the only way to play and in no way the best, it's just how I like it.

I have found that a gearbox tuned for manual driving can be much different from one tuned for auto. Auto drivers using the brake pedal to get the car to downshift where MT can just shift when they want means a gearbox for a MT driver may not downshift as well with the brake pedal.

MT is more versatile.
 
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AssassinTuner
I like the benefits of tranny braking. It helps rotate the car. Driving MT is more involved, takes more skill to do well. AT is, well, something those who can't handle MT use as a crutch. Faster or not all depends on how cheesy the Driver is. You can cheese right past people in auto, big deal. Auto in GT5 is more like manual shift assist. It's the same as using TCS, ASM, or SRF. Just another assist IMO. If you can't match laps with the assist off, then your Driving Style relies on them. I would rather be slower and assist free, than faster using all the assist I can take advantage of. That's just me though. I play to keep it as real as possible, that is not the only way to play and in no way the best, it's just how I like it.

I have found that a gearbox tuned for manual driving can be much different from one tuned for auto. Auto drivers using the brake pedal to get the car to downshift where MT can just shift when they want means a gearbox for a MT driver may not downshift as well with the brake pedal.

MT is more versatile.
Click to expand...

I agree 100%
 
AssassinTuner
I like the benefits of tranny braking. It helps rotate the car. Driving MT is more involved, takes more skill to do well. AT is, well, something those who can't handle MT use as a crutch. Faster or not all depends on how cheesy the Driver is. You can cheese right past people in auto, big deal. Auto in GT5 is more like manual shift assist. It's the same as using TCS, ASM, or SRF. Just another assist IMO. If you can't match laps with the assist off, then your Driving Style relies on them. I would rather be slower and assist free, than faster using all the assist I can take advantage of. That's just me though. I play to keep it as real as possible, that is not the only way to play and in no way the best, it's just how I like it.

I have found that a gearbox tuned for manual driving can be much different from one tuned for auto. Auto drivers using the brake pedal to get the car to downshift where MT can just shift when they want means a gearbox for a MT driver may not downshift as well with the brake pedal.

MT is more versatile.
Click to expand...

I'm faster with manual, every time I end up using it.
So it's hard for me to take you seriously, when you imply I'm somehow cheating when I purposely choose to be slower, out of simple laziness.
I drive far too many cars, at way too many PP levels, at nearly every track in the game. The variables are constantly changing, and I simply don't want to put that much effort into something I 'enjoy', because being forced to focus, or concentrate or pay attention that much, simply isn't as fun for me. I prefer to enjoy the racing and just let the game do the 'work'. As soon as GT5 becomes 'work' I no longer want to play it.

I'm the same way in the real world. I like manuals, I know I have more control of the car, and when I want to do dumb ish they're far better suited... but, I like to eat while I drive, text, hold my girl's hand or just kick back, put it on cruise control and effortlessly enjoy the ride. Every time traffic slows down, comes to a stop, or leaves from a stop light, I don't feel like going through the gears, using the clutch, or leaving from a hill and slipping the clutch. I can do it, I was forced to learn to drive a stick when I was 8 years old. Every single one of my race cars were MT except for 1. In fact I think I know 1 person who can drive a stick better than I can when I actually have to care, the point is, I don't care.

So for anyone who thinks automatic transmissions are some crazy unrealistic idea, I've got news for you, you're dead wrong, because my in game preferences mirror my real life driving habits exactly.
 
Adrenaline
I'm faster with manual, every time I end up using it.
So it's hard for me to take you seriously, when you imply I'm somehow cheating when I purposely choose to be slower, out of simple laziness.
I drive far too many cars, at way too many PP levels, at nearly every track in the game. The variables are constantly changing, and I simply don't want to put that much effort into something I 'enjoy', because being forced to focus, or concentrate or pay attention that much, simply isn't as fun for me. I prefer to enjoy the racing and just let the game do the 'work'. As soon as GT5 becomes 'work' I no longer want to play it.

I'm the same way in the real world. I like manuals, I know I have more control of the car, and when I want to do dumb ish they're far better suited... but, I like to eat while I drive, text, hold my girl's hand or just kick back, put it on cruise control and effortlessly enjoy the ride. Every time traffic slows down, comes to a stop, or leaves from a stop light, I don't feel like going through the gears, using the clutch, or leaving from a hill and slipping the clutch. I can do it, I was forced to learn to drive a stick when I was 8 years old. Every single one of my race cars were MT except for 1. In fact I think I know 1 person who can drive a stick better than I can when I actually have to care, the point is, I don't care.

So for anyone who thinks automatic transmissions are some crazy unrealistic idea, I've got news for you, you're dead wrong, because my in game preferences mirror my real life driving habits exactly.
Click to expand...

Relax, wasn't talking directly to you for one, second, I think I said autos can be faster than MT. And here is the special part someone so militant about grammar, punctuation, blah blah blah should of caught.

If you can't match your times without the assist (in this case shift assist) you use the assist as a crutch.

You just said you go faster MT, so WTF are you crying about now???

On another note, I really don't take you seriously ever. Not you times or anything, too much of a Hard-On, JMO.

I'll say another thing. Being a manual driver IRL. I've also owned auto daily beaters for convenience, griping the whole time only reconsidering when I'm eating. My girl puts her hand on my lap ;) but I really don't care about that ish when I'm driving. As such I find it hard to take you seriously when you try to pass off the BS it's because your lazy and spend so much time driving various cars. BS, welcome to Gran Turismo, it's LAME AND BORING driving in auto in GT way more so than IRL, anybody who drives MT 4-real & in GT will agree, auto is not only boring, but frustrating.... Anybody who's really good at MT in GT will agree you don't go back... "Lazyness" yeah, okay there, every time you drive MT your faster, yet your posted uber hot laps for your own tunes in your garage all say your using AT and the Driving line. Come on now Bro. Go on proving how fast you are, IDC. You find it hard to take me seriously. That's seriously funny.

Don't trip, I'm not insulting you, I just don't buy your Auto excuse. It's weak, IMO laughable. I'll bet you got enough free time to prove how fast you are MT, get on that. It make no difference to me.

R-R-R as they say, because of this R-R-F...
 
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Without math, this graphic can explain me to express my point of view about gears setting.
If you set a longer 1 st gear as possible and a shorter last gear as possible, spread the intermediary gears between, you will be more able to stay in a as short as possible RPM band from one gear to the other.
Like this ,you can explore the powerband the better way, reaching faster the high power RPM zone each time you shift.

Just have to take care of the graphic to know the better moment to shift.

1- with a car that have power curve that increase and decrease with same proportion it'll give :EX:
if you have 2000 rpm between 2 shift:
Max power 7000 rpm / shift 8000 rpm/ retake 6000 rpm.

2-some engine as you can see on the power graphic, lost all the power only after the peak. In this case you'll have to shift at the max power rpm.

3-some engine conserve the power after the peak, in this case you will shift at a certain rpm that will make retake the upper gear at thebeginning max hp peak ,so with higher rpm shift.

This is how i understand and how i tune my gearboxes.

etagementbv6.png
 
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I have no idea how to tune transmission, but this is what I do at the moment. I just drive it around some different size tracks and see what the fastest I'm getting is and set the final to a bit more than that. Than adjust the gears to be closer together and a little more spread out for the last few and good to go. Works virtually every time. I have ran into the problem where a car may accelerate too quick and hit the rev limiter while turning in which I just adjust the final gear to make all gears longer and solves the problem.
 
praiano63
Without math, this graphic can explain me to express my point of view about gears setting.
If you set a longer 1 st gear as possible and a shorter last gear as possible, spread the intermediary gears between, you will be more able to stay in a as short as possible RPM band from one gear to the other.
Like this ,you can explore the powerband the better way, reaching faster the high power RPM zone each time you shift.

Just have to take care of the graphic to know the better moment to shift.

1- with a car that have power curve that increase and decrease with same proportion it'll give :EX:
if you have 2000 rpm between 2 shift:
Max power 7000 rpm / shift 8000 rpm/ retake 6000 rpm.

2-some engine as you can see on the power graphic, lost all the power only after the peak. In this case you'll have to shift at the max power rpm.

3-some engine conserve the power after the peak, in this case you will shift at a certain rpm that will make retake the upper gear at thebeginning max hp peak ,so with higher rpm shift.

This is how i understand and how i tune my gearboxes.

etagementbv6.png
Click to expand...
+2 for an on-topic post.
 

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