limited slip

  • Thread starter krenkme
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There is. The goal being to kill, or severely limit wheel spin under acceleration.
Put simply:
Initial Torque -The lower the number the less amount of power it takes to get the wheels spinning
Acceleration - Balance left to right. Lower number more or less directs the power to the inside wheel therefore making it lose traction before the outside. Higher is just the opposite.
Braking - Not entirely certain about the specifics, but higher seems to lock down the car under braking, lower allows for a "looser" feel.

I find that in most cars my drivetrain is set to somewhere in the neighborhood of
IT- 17-25
AS- 9-15
BS- 19-24

Some like the Gt350R and a couple of the Group C cars that require some seemingly off-the-wall settings, but generally speaking, that is what works.
 
I've used my real world knowledge and firsthand experience as my basis for LSD tuning, but I still have to feel it out on the particular vehicle. An easy way to do it is by equipping the vehicle with slightly less sticky tires and practice on a track that has corners with either heavy weight transfer, and/or corners that you can apply full throttle at least halfway through. That should give you a good feel for where the engagement point (Initial Torque) is, and how much slip the clutches allow (Acceleration Sensitivity) once Limited Slip is activated. Of course there are different types of LSDs in real life, but I'm basing my initial tuning off of the basic 1.5 way multi-plate clutch type LSD commonly found in truck and sports car rear axles.

kaaz-lsd-3.jpg
 
I've used my real world knowledge and firsthand experience as my basis for LSD tuning, but I still have to feel it out on the particular vehicle. An easy way to do it is by equipping the vehicle with slightly less sticky tires and practice on a track that has corners with either heavy weight transfer, and/or corners that you can apply full throttle at least halfway through. That should give you a good feel for where the engagement point (Initial Torque) is, and how much slip the clutches allow (Acceleration Sensitivity) once Limited Slip is activated. Of course there are different types of LSDs in real life, but I'm basing my initial tuning off of the basic 1.5 way multi-plate clutch type LSD commonly found in truck and sports car rear axles.

Ditto.
And I've found that Trial Mountain seems to be (at least for me) the best all around for working on the differential. Section One is good for testing the braking sensitivity with the fast slightly off-camber corners, Two is good for the initial torque and acceleration sensitivity, and Three covers the rig as a whole.
 
I've used my real world knowledge and firsthand experience as my basis for LSD tuning, but I still have to feel it out on the particular vehicle. An easy way to do it is by equipping the vehicle with slightly less sticky tires and practice on a track that has corners with either heavy weight transfer, and/or corners that you can apply full throttle at least halfway through. That should give you a good feel for where the engagement point (Initial Torque) is, and how much slip the clutches allow (Acceleration Sensitivity) once Limited Slip is activated. Of course there are different types of LSDs in real life, but I'm basing my initial tuning off of the basic 1.5 way multi-plate clutch type LSD commonly found in truck and sports car rear axles.

kaaz-lsd-3.jpg

Ditto.
And I've found that Trial Mountain seems to be (at least for me) the best all around for working on the differential. Section One is good for testing the braking sensitivity with the fast slightly off-camber corners, Two is good for the initial torque and acceleration sensitivity, and Three covers the rig as a whole.

And I agree with both of you, Fluff in the real world you "feel" out what needs to be adjusted i.e. in a rear wheel slide if the outside wheel is spinning and the inside is doing the work of balancing the car you need to adjust acordingly, but in this game it seems its not always the case.

JLawrence - I test most cars at that track and you can get the "feel" for the car there, but if you take the same car to a track like it (maybe deep forest or the mini part of autaum ring) you cant get the feel for it and it's way off. Now I know you need to set up a car for the track you run but I can't get the feel for the car. So I just was asking for GT5 is there a "trick" or "Plan" to using the LSD for simulation and not the real world?...."Trick" maybe the wrong word.

EDIT - maybe it is like the real world and I can't get the feel of the car (I use a DS3). Trial and Error thats the way to go I guess :D
 
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Honestly, its just a matter of watching your tires. See where they light up and adjust the LSD to reduce that as much as you can.
 
The higher it goes, the more straight line traction you have. The lower it goes, the less likely you are to spin when you spin the tires while turning.

Initial dictates how much spin needs to take place before activation.

The trick is, when cornering, an LSD will "think" the outside tire is spinning, because it rotates faster than the inside, so if your initial is to high, it won't allow you to corner properly.

You have to feel for optimal tuning for yourself, depending on ability and driving style.
 
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