- 3,517
- Pennsylvania
- Redsuns_Eric_DRP
First I want to say thanks to everyone that has supported me along the way, if it wasn't for everyone on GTP I would never be doing this. If you have any questions just pm me or leave a post and I will get back to you soon as possible.
What is a good car for drifting?
Anything Rear Wheel Drive. I would try to stay away from Mid Engine and Rear Engine cars. If these are tuned well they can be competitive, as well can be angle machines. As for what Rear Wheel Drive car to choose I would make sure the car is Street Legal, Production made and below 575 PP stock because most competitions don't allow cars like the Chevy ZR1, or the Viper ACR. I'm not saying it is wrong drifting these cars, but I personally try to stay away from them because they are considered "Easy".
Upgrades
Body/Chassis-For most drift cars you want it to be light as possible, so install all of the weight reduction parts you can. Chassis Reinforcement is really up to you. If you like your car having body roll which potentially might make your car unstable, but drift faster then don't install it. Personally I install it on every car that I own, because you want your car to be stable. Try the car without it, but then if you feel it is needed install it.
Engine-None of these parts will affect the handling of your car, and are not required.
Intake System- None of these parts will help or affect the handling of your car.
Exhaust-Like Engine and Intake System none of the parts in the Exhaust will affect the handling of your car, but It can affect how your car sounds. If you want your car to sound good click the link highlighted in the text and you can then put that exhaust on your car.
Turbo Kits-Now we are finally to the good parts. There are either 3 turbo kits, a supercharger or both for most cars. As far as cars with just a supercharger showing up, I would recommend installing it as it adds torque and power. Now figuring out the turbo is the tricky part. I personally use the high turbo almost always, because I never notice the "Turbo Lag" that some people see present. It is personal preference, but If i find a better reason to choose either or I will update this part of the thread.
Transmission-Most transmissions are setup really long which is no good for drifting. So I would recommend buying the Fully Customizable Transmission. Now as for tuning the transmission for drifting I will get to that a little later.
Drivetrain-You want your car to shift as quick as possible, so install the Clutch Twin Plate which is the best clutch for drifting. Now for the flywheel. I have done a lot of testing with this little booger. I read on a different forum (No Name) that they use sports flywheel instead of racing on the drift cars, so I hopped on gt5. I noticed that the sports flywheel felt more responsive, so I have used it ever since. For the LSD, that is a must have part on every drift car! I have tried with and without the carbon drive shaft and do not notice a real difference, so I have never used a carbon drive shaft.
Suspension-Fully Customizable all the way!
Tires/Wheels-Most all drift rooms/Competitions use comfort hards, and I only tune on comfort hards, so my way of tuning might not work on other tires.
Key Terms
Oversteer-In terms of drifting oversteer is good, but too much can cause the car to spin out.
Understeer-This is bad for drifting. This is when the car catches grip and will lose the drift.
Counter Steer-This is what the driver must do to keep the drift, steer away from the turn.
Now that the main things are out of the way, lets start tuning! 
Tuning
Transmission-Ok so you bought all of the parts stated above, you understand the key terms, and now you wanna learn to tune. First go to the top speed and drag it all the way down. Then take first gear and make it as long as it can go. Then go to your last gear (changes on every car) and drag it so it is the shortest it can go. Then take your final gear and drag it out until your top speed reads anywhere from 150-170 MPH. Then take your middle gears and make the bottoms of them line up like in a slope. This will allow for quick shifts and not too much tire spin off the line, so you can be on your competitors door for entry.
LSD-When you open up the LSD you notice 3 different settings. Now there has been many ways to do this, but most are just people putting in random numbers and hoping for the best, and to be honest that is what I did here. Well first start by sliding the initial torque over to 60 (Highest Setting). This will allow the LSD to work at full effect. Now I did a little math to figure out the Acceleration. If your are drifting you want your diff to lock most of the time, but not always. So you want it to lock 90% of the time. So I took 60 and I multiplied it by .90 (90%) and I got 54. So 54 will allow the diff to lock 90% of the time but not all of the time like a welded diff. As for Braking you want it to do nothing, so slide it down to 5 and it will be close to doing nothing.
Brake balance-Again brake balance is personal preference, If you run more brake than in the rear you can hit the brake, but allows you to keep the drift while slowing down. Anywhere from 7 to 10 on the front works best, and 0-3 on the rear.
Suspension Tuning
Ride Height-Now most drift cars are a little bit raised in the front, the reason being is so that the weight can transfer better. I usually slam the rear of my car, but then raise the front by 5-10 MM's. Just mess around with this and find what works better for you.
Fine Tuning Spring Rates-Now after your car is perfectly balanced it is not really perfect for drifting just yet. Slap on a pair of tires and test it out. If you are a big time drifter you might notice under or oversteer. To fix oversteer stiffen the front or soften the rear. And for understeer Soften the front and stiffen the rear.
Dampers-Well for beginners take the same idea that we did in the gypsy tune and apply to the Damper (Extension). Then take those numbers and take 50% of them and that will be your damper(Compression).
Anti-Roll Bars-Most drift cars you do not want much body-roll so make the front 7 and the back 5-7 depending on how grippy the car is this will allow some oversteer if needed.
Camber-Now this is the hardest part to figure out, but in the long run can make a car feel like a tire shredding beast. There are many ways to tune camber. I personally use 3-4 on the front and 0-1 on the rear. I will work on this more when I figure more out.
Toe-Same as camber I do not no much right now. I have found that it is good to run anywhere from 0 to -.50 on the front but anywhere from 0 to .1 for the rear.
Thanks for reading if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask. Also anyone with tuning experience if you feel I missed something please point it out.
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