Master Drivers School of Drifting For Dummies!

306
United States
NY
Liquizon
Hello fellow drifters,

Well I've been doing some thinking and seeing as how I’ve now perfected the art that is known as drifting, "not trying to be bold", I haven't obviously mastered every track, but the art and techniques I have, I'd like to give back to the community seeing as how I was very frustrated in getting to the point I’m at right now.

FYI: I say "Sweet Spot" alot during this thread, and the reason is its something you feel, follow the simulation and after a few laps you'll know what i'm talking about. Its when your wheels are aligned with the racing line your taking as seen in the picture. You'll see...

First off let me tell you the reason I feel a thread of this nature is needed: A lot of fellow drifters really "boast" or accentuate ideas and techniques with large words, like I just did :). I"M NOT GOING TO DO THAT... I will never say Modulation, "Use throttle and wheel as one force not Opposing" nothing like that... I'm going to try and break it down as simply as I can.


---ALSO---
This is written regarding the use of a 900deg steering wheel, I use the DFP... but if it helps you with a controller then so be it :)


First off I strongly recommend you read this, there is a lot of viable information in here. DRIFT REFERENCE: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=57146

Ok, now that you have a gist of what drifting is setups and such. We can move onto my explanation and Run you through a solid simulation.

Drifting NOTE: Think about it like this when you are "Feint Drifting" a.k.a "Inertia Drifting” You turn away from the turn, then back into the turn? This makes the vehicle obviously lose traction. Now when you begin to lose traction you need to "Countersteer" why what is counter steer? Think about it like this... (LEFT HANDED TURN) I turn right then I make a quick snap left and immediately after that snap. I spin that wheel and hit that sweet spot... What’s a sweet spot? Its the point at which your front tires caught up with your car, that’s why during that Spin to the sweet spot if its not fast enough your car begins to veer into the inside wall instead of remaining on a straight line.

Again... since this is a very important point I need to get across.

When you tweak your wheel right then left what your doing is making the car go sideways meaning your car isn’t on the driving line anymore or wont be very shortly there after, Unless u spin that bad boy and get the wheels straight again going with the turn, compensating for the back being sideways. That’s as simple as I can put it. Think about a turn that is a half-donut if I place a vehicle not moving!! At the apex of the turn... facing the inner wall exactly 1/2 way through the turn where should the front wheels be pointed??? Definitely not at the inner wall (Straight), they need to be facing the direction you want to travel.
Keep that in mind...

If picture does not Show up.
reference pictures at bottom!

505545109CwbXhV_ph.jpg


NOTICE HOW THE WHEELS ARE FACING THE DIRECTION OF THE RACING LINE
KEEPING THE CAR MOVING IN THAT DIRECTION
*Its much easier to see why the initial counter steer is difficult for a lot of people do u see the direction of the wheels prior to the Pinnacle point?? And After? Do you see how much turning has to be done to compensate and get the wheels in the proper direction??? This is key* Think about this and look at this.



KEY POINT with Wheel control:
I hope you gained a bit of understanding with those extremely simplistic "at least I think" ways of thinking about it... So how do I "spin the bad boy"? well first off the harder you feint drift your car the faster you need to spin the wheel in a nutshell MEANING don't GO CRAZY trying to get the car sideways otherwise you have less time to "spin the bad boy" a.k.a. counter steer to get the tires facing the normal driving line again.. Start slower... During a drift since you already spun it and now your wheels are facing the driving line KEEP them facing that line. Meaning as you go through the corner turn your wheels to keep them on the right line... usually this means reduce your counter steer as in straighten out the wheels, but not all at once you do it little by little as your going through the corner in order to bring the car straight again at the corners exit. Really you really want to just drive the car with the front tires and use the gas to keep the car accelerating forward even if it is going forwards ever so slightly cause their spinning in a drift... Make sure You turn the wheel in notches when u return from your Counter steer, however, as stated early that Point at which u have to counter steer has to be fast relative to how hard you initiated the drift..

SIMULATION TO RUN:
If all else fails... GIVE THEM DIRECTIONS TO FOLLOW :P

1) Buy Rx-7 FD the newer body style,
Mine) Rx-7 FD Bathburst Yellow (used car garage)
DONT FORGET THE OIL CHANGE if you follow this exactly!!

2) Buy all mods for the car (just to have at disposal), besides tires just buy the N tires 1,2,3 and a FLYWHEEL,TRANNY, KEEP STOCK TURBO, 2-way LIMITED SLIP, RACING SUSPENSION, DO NOT MODIFY THE SUSPENSION.
I also have a Black wing and some sweet black wheels with the chrome lip to go with it... I'm doubtful that the wing will make much of a difference but either way, make this car your own or replicate mine since mines sweet as hell :)
BRAKES & BRAKE BALANCE: Set to a rear bias such as, 5 in front - 11 in rear
WHY?
This if for a simple reason: It allows you to "TRAIL BRAKE" if u want terms to go with it :P, basically in those linking drift situations you can gently apply the brakes to slow down the Initial SNAP of the drift, meaning it allows you to turn to wheel a bit slower to that breaking point instead of spinning it like a maniac..

Like anything that deals with driving a car YOU MUST slow down to take a corner. so if your sliding into TURN #2 of this track the one right after the tunnel you cant go 120mph, you need to shift the weight and drag the brakes a bit to slow down as you counter steer the wheel to hit that sweet spot.

3) Tune car to 300-320ish HP N3 TIRES equipped

4) Go to CITY COURSES, Special Stage Route 5

5) TAKE OFF ALL DRIVING AIDS! Don’t forget adjust the Brake bias!!! As mentioned
On #2)

7) PUT THE WHEEL into LIGHT FORCEFEED back mode this makes it much easier to spin almost like having power steering... Some argue "I want to feel the road" their dumb, u can feel the road just fine its just easier to turn and u wont break your wheel or your forearms trying. You do this by pressing: Select + R3 + Left Trigger

8) Select the View where u can see the hood of the car not the one on the GROUND, its easier to see the direction your car is pointing to me at least


Note: if you don’t have a wheel well I’m sorry, because it’s much more difficult with the wheel and the level of this game jumps up 10x's it’s a great additional well worth the 150$


9) PRACTICE ON THIS ALOT!!! With this car and this track you'll really begin to feel the actions of a car under drift conditions!! And notice I didn’t do anything to the suspension BECAUSE!@! When you set it up for drifting it will drift under all conditions in a sharp kind of way... meaning if you don't have the "Bad boy Spin" down pat yet, you'll never be able to keep up with an extremely driftable car.. This way you have to work for it a little but it will still drift using all methods pretty easily on this track. *DO NOT USE E-BRAKE* to initiate a Rear Wheel drive car Drift, as people have said it theirs no point... your cheating yourself.

#MY 2cents: Use e-brake when you are coming in on too Sharpe of an angle and need to drastically alter the direction your pointing, usually if you come off too fast or on the wrong line from the last corner#

TRACK NOTES:
Special Stage Route 5


TURN #0: (first turn after long straight it’s a very small feint right turn into the Tunnel) Well how should I say this, Unless your on lots of drugs and your the most ridiculous thing on 2 legs leave this turn alone. The fact of the matter is you already need to slow down to make it through the tunnel, if you really want to test your guts and link this turn to the next your nutty, it most likely wont happen maybe by some miracle :). Just concentrate and controlling the car while going fast around this turn... and crunching the brakes right as you hit the tunnel.

TURN #1: (Tunnel Turn) This is a really great turn. If you attack it properly, let just say theirs no harm in rubbing the wall, just try your best to not :). Basically using a power-over method is perfectly fine here if your just trying to drift the last 3/4s of the turn. This is a great opportunity to really feel out the car and get used to driving in the "Sweet Spot".

TURN #2: SPECTACULAR!! One of my favorite turns!! Note that from the last 3/4s of the tunnel until after turn #6 you can link THE ENTIRE THING FLAWLESSLY... *something to shoot for * Basically you want to continue your drift coming out of the tunnel so your tires are still a bit slippery in the back and start VEERING to the LEFT wall, What this does is it basically is the beginning to that Snap back motion and the "Pinnacle Point", once you close in on the turn just enough. you Slightly turn the wheels toward the turn(into the turn) this is going to Take your already sliding back to the OPPOSING side meaning if you don’t trail brake at this point YOU MUST spin the wheel very fast and get those tires facing in the proper direction, with some braking it'll be much easier. Before you hit 15laps you'll be starting to see how this will link up... very smooth turn great to practice linking!

TURN #3 & #4: (the S-turns with the slight uphill) This turn can be a little tricky until you’re really comfortable with feeling that over steer point and not hitting it why? Because its uphill meaning the front tires are going to grip harder meaning you want to either take stress off the front.. (Harder accel) or already have the tires straight when you hit it...

TURN #5 & #6: (The tight S turn) I recommend you practice linking slowly. If you are going for speed then do a very small power slide, into the first part and shoot out of the second part using the whole lane marked with yellow stripes on the left side of the turn exit.

TURN #7: (after tight S turns) ok this turn is a @#$@@ but you can use the wall to keep you going if must. WHY? Well first off your coming to it after a straight away mean u must slow down... Also if you want to take it fast You have to initiate the Drift seemingly earlier then expected since their is a little uphill here your car will slow down more then normally I'd keep away from doing outrageous drifts around here till you have the first 1/2 of the course down pat and your starting to link drifts.

LAST TURN #8: (before straight) This is a really fun turn... At first once again it’s not easy... WHY? This is a very tight turn that jumps onto the final straightaway. This means you must both take it slow and initiate the drift late basically just going a little sideways onto the straight-away OR Initiate the drift EARLY before the turn begins and Trail Brake abit to slow down then 2nd Gear Pull through this!!! Obviously the latter is the better method but it’s also one that should not take precedence at first... Like the 2nd to last turn... Wait until you begin to link the 1st half of the track then Try more Drastic measures, meaning More Feint and faster Counter steer to hit the "Sweet spot" to do a very eccentric tight drift, hugging the inside wall!!

Conclusion: I really tried my best to put something out on GTplanet that’s easy to read and understand... as well as a good simulation to run... I hope this helped people if it doesn’t, or you have bad feelings toward me I still love you!!! :) And keep practicing, I wish you the best of luck!!

EXTRA HELP:
Hey if anyone needs extra help or has questions or thinks I should make any revisions Please AIM me... @ LiquifiedArt I'm always willing to help out cause I was once in your position too. But I really think this simulation will help out...

DRIFT ON!!@#$!#@!

** I had to set up a web shots acct to put my analysis pic up there LOL ** so I’m adding this one cause its a nice long 4wd Drift :P Btw this Thread is speaking primarily of Rear wheel drives if no one figured that out :P

If picture does not Show up.
reference pictures at bottom!

505546459XlORaE_ph.jpg
 

Attachments

  • MastersDriftAnalyzer.jpg
    MastersDriftAnalyzer.jpg
    41.3 KB · Views: 122
  • LongDrift_STI.jpg
    LongDrift_STI.jpg
    51 KB · Views: 106
  • Drift Guide Better Line.jpg
    Drift Guide Better Line.jpg
    39 KB · Views: 83
Looks like no stupid fuss just a simple and cool thread. Exactly what I think is needed.

I needed to say that so I still havent read the whole post, about to do now;)

I think I'll edit this...

Edit: Well it's a bit unclear...but still nice you wrote all this for the new guys, I bet it'll help them someway;):)
 
G-T-4-Fan
Looks like no stupid fuss just a simple and cool thread. Exactly what I think is needed.

I needed to say that so I still havent read the whole post, about to do now;)

I think I'll edit this...

thanx bro, make sure u refresh cause i'm watching the anime bleach and i keep adding little tidbits :) thanx for your support
 
holy freaking long post dude, im at work so i cant read it all because i have to do some actual work today, lol, but i will def check it out tomorrow when i get home.
 
thats a nice post man! well ive been into drifting since forever but never drifted in any Grand Tourismo game. Sounds really interesting, so imma go with what you said, and if theres any problems, ill hit you up on aim. AIM= cssgd12
 
The only problem is your racing lines... You shouldn't go from the outside to the inside... A racing line is "out-in-out"... You go from the outside of the track, hit the inside apex, then proceed towards the outside of the track... The reason for this is to minimize the force on the car turning by cutting through the turn in the straightest line possible, thus, allowing you to take more speed through the turn... Your dead on about the countersteering... Fix your diagram (as far as the line goes) and that should do it...





;)
 
Delphic Reason
The only problem is your racing lines... You shouldn't go from the outside to the inside... A racing line is "out-in-out"... You go from the outside of the track, hit the inside apex, then proced towards the outside of the track... The reason for this is to minimize the force on the car turning by cutting through the turn in the straightest line possible, thus, allowing you to take more speed through the turn... Your dead on about the countersteering... Fix your diagram (as far as the line goes) and that should do it...





;)


exactly what I was going to say 👍
 
the only problem I have with this (sorry if I make things confusing) is that the rear wheels and front wheels must achive balance whilst drifting. The rear wheels have a leverage effect on the car when it is sideways, the amount of this affect can be directly controled with wheelspin. More wheelspin = less rear grip = less leverage. It is possible to have negative leverage in real life but not in this game due to GT4's unrealistic LSD and tire modelling.

Because of this leverage on the rear of the car, keeping the front wheels in line with the racing line will cause an overcorrection of massive sorts. You have to do what is called a 4 wheel drift. All wheel drive cars in particular have to do this constantly. However rear wheel drive cars are doing it too, believe it or not. If you think about it the car is turning right and your turning left. The rear wheels are trying to straighten the car out and the steering is correcting to straighten it out also. Therefore you have to achieve balance between the two. You are in fact still turning the car in the direction of the turn (in this case right) while countersteering because the rear wheels are trying to turn you in the opposite direction.
Because it is a balance it is always changing and cannot be accurately measured or applied to a technique.

All of this is why I say to forget about the relation of front tires to the road.
Instead, I say go by sight and feel.


If the wheel is pulling you to the left, then the front wheels are turning the car to the right. If the wheel feels light and neutral, then the front wheels are not turning the car. If the wheel is pulling you to the right, then the front wheels are turning the car to the left. Same is true for sight, if it looks like it's going off balance (gaining/loosing angle, or loosing proper racing line), then steer/throttle control accordingly.
THIS IS ALWAYS TRUE, DRIFTING OR OTHERWISE!!!
If the car feels/looks like it is going off balance to the left, then apply more steering to the right, or increase/decrease throttle, and vise versa.

If your using a DS2...............then it's the same but you just rely on what you see since you are lacking the force feedback lol.
 
Delphic Reason
The only problem is your racing lines... You shouldn't go from the outside to the inside... A racing line is "out-in-out"... You go from the outside of the track, hit the inside apex, then proceed towards the outside of the track... The reason for this is to minimize the force on the car turning by cutting through the turn in the straightest line possible, thus, allowing you to take more speed through the turn... Your dead on about the countersteering... Fix your diagram (as far as the line goes) and that should do it...





;)


lol the diagram lol... I put some serious Photoshop skillz into that but its really supposed to show you the jist of it not the exact lines to take, but thanks for looking at the details :P
 
rsmithdrift
the only problem I have with this (sorry if I make things confusing) is that the rear wheels and front wheels must achive balance whilst drifting. The rear wheels have a leverage effect on the car when it is sideways, the amount of this affect can be directly controled with wheelspin. More wheelspin = less rear grip = less leverage. It is possible to have negative leverage in real life but not in this game due to GT4's unrealistic LSD and tire modelling.

Because of this leverage on the rear of the car, keeping the front wheels in line with the racing line will cause an overcorrection of massive sorts. You have to do what is called a 4 wheel drift. All wheel drive cars in particular have to do this constantly. However rear wheel drive cars are doing it too, believe it or not. If you think about it the car is turning right and your turning left. The rear wheels are trying to straighten the car out and the steering is correcting to straighten it out also. Therefore you have to achieve balance between the two. You are in fact still turning the car in the direction of the turn (in this case right) while countersteering because the rear wheels are trying to turn you in the opposite direction.
Because it is a balance it is always changing and cannot be accurately measured or applied to a technique.

All of this is why I say to forget about the relation of front tires to the road.
Instead, I say go by sight and feel.


If the wheel is pulling you to the left, then the front wheels are turning the car to the right. If the wheel feels light and neutral, then the front wheels are not turning the car. If the wheel is pulling you to the right, then the front wheels are turning the car to the left. Same is true for sight, if it looks like it's going off balance (gaining/loosing angle, or loosing proper racing line), then steer/throttle control accordingly.
THIS IS ALWAYS TRUE, DRIFTING OR OTHERWISE!!!
If the car feels/looks like it is going off balance to the left, then apply more steering to the right, or increase/decrease throttle, and vise versa.

If your using a DS2...............then it's the same but you just rely on what you see since you are lacking the force feedback lol.


Thanx for the input... and although i perfectly understand what your saying. This is the exact reason i felt this thread was needed. Because most people will proably lose yoru train of thought inside these paragraphs. Speaking intellectual is nice, agreed!, but it does prevent new people from growing at a rapid pace because they will spend most of there time over-analyzing the aspects of "how to drift" and also feeling the wheel can be a bit misleading, This is due to you the "Driver" needing to almost predict the reaction of your car on the counter-steer. why? well cause you cant feel the G's so its really relying on alittle piece of plastic machinery known as a wheel :).. and for DS2's ?? they're not feeling anything LOL sucks for U... :P but thanx for the comments
 
Gumball-AMG
hai baby's drifting getting better:d

umm... Unless this is my Girlfriend posting talking about me... I really dont understand this. LOL HOpefully it's a student learning from this driving school :P that would fantastic.. but please whoever u are let me know!!

NOTE: If anyone is having success with this little school i setup, Or infact if your failing at seeing the big picture, please post here as so i can get a feel of whats happening in the drifting community and possibly adjust some things in the thread! :) thanx
 
what you should do is make those visuals more neater and more accurate then sloppy lines, because some people here are VISUAL learners
 
SIMULATION TO RUN:
If all else fails... GIVE THEM DIRECTIONS TO FOLLOW :P

1) Buy Rx-7 FD the newer body style,
Mine) Rx-7 FD Bathburst Yellow (used car garage)
DONT FORGET THE OIL CHANGE if you follow this exactly!!

2) Buy all mods for the car (just to have at disposal), besides tires just buy the N tires 1,2,3 and a FLYWHEEL,TRANNY, KEEP STOCK TURBO, 2-way LIMITED SLIP, RACING SUSPENSION, DO NOT MODIFY THE SUSPENSION.
I also have a Black wing and some sweet black wheels with the chrome lip to go with it... I'm doubtful that the wing will make much of a difference but either way, make this car your own or replicate mine since mines sweet as hell
BRAKES & BRAKE BALANCE: Set to a rear bias such as, 5 in front - 11 in rear
WHY?
This if for a simple reason: It allows you to "TRAIL BRAKE" if u want terms to go with it :P, basically in those linking drift situations you can gently apply the brakes to slow down the Initial SNAP of the drift, meaning it allows you to turn to wheel a bit slower to that breaking point instead of spinning it like a maniac..

Like anything that deals with driving a car YOU MUST slow down to take a corner. so if your sliding into TURN #2 of this track the one right after the tunnel you cant go 120mph, you need to shift the weight and drag the brakes a bit to slow down as you counter steer the wheel to hit that sweet spot.

3) Tune car to 300-320ish HP N3 TIRES equipped

4) Go to CITY COURSES, Special Stage Route 5
Why N3's that is more grip than the regular simulation tires, N2 tires should work fine..and instead of a FD try a Honda S2000, its a bit more easier than the FD.
 
if you waited 1 more day that would make this thread a year old.
nk, n3's are good for 300 and up. i dont see the problem. just allows for more grip while drifting.
 
if you waited 1 more day that would make this thread a year old.
nk, n3's are good for 300 and up. i dont see the problem. just allows for more grip while drifting.

Yeah... but 300hp seems a little bit passed Novice for me. I understand what you mean but, I think that using a car around 200 is find also but thats my preference as long the message in the end is understandable. Im fine with it.
 
Why N3's that is more grip than the regular simulation tires, N2 tires should work fine

Yep!

.and instead of a FD try a Honda S2000, its a bit more easier than the FD.

Nope! The S2000 is a grip monster. Yes it can be fun to drift. But the combination of strong grip characteristics and high revving engine can make it difficult for new drifters to get and keep sideways.

I say stick with an FD or Silvia when starting off.
 
Since you guys already resurrected this thread...

I'm mostly with Swift on this, but some of the S2ks are really easy to begin with... then for some reason turn difficult again once you start getting better with other cars. The amuse S2K (R1? I forget) was the first car I managed to control in a drift but now I don't like it at all.

1990's RX-7 RS(-R), 270R and S15s seem to be the easiest and most willing cars to me. Somewhere between 250-300 hp on N2s should also be good for starters.. FDs need slightly more because of the low torque. I almost exclusively use N1s but N2s do give a bit more control and better turn-in. N3s are too grippy on FRs for my tastes, except in very rare cases.

Note that there's a HUGE difference in how the different FDs handle. Basically the ones with the big rear wing (1998-new) are a lot tighter and more understeery, while the small winged ones (1991-1997 I think) are easy-going and more than willing to drift.
 
Ske
Note that there's a HUGE difference in how the different FDs handle. Basically the ones with the big rear wing (1998-new) are a lot tighter and more understeery, while the small winged ones (1991-1997 I think) are easy-going and more than willing to drift.


Actually, there's three different generations of FD's there. 91-95, 96-98, 99-02.
With each step forward the cars do get progressively more grippy as ske says, but the only ones that should really pose much difficulty are the Bathurst and Spirit R. Even the 2000 model RS and RZ can be drifted pretty easily (I always found the lighter RZ a little more willing).

The absolute loosest ones are the '91 and '93 Type R's.
 
The absolute loosest ones are the '91 and '93 Type R's.

Yep, my 91 FD R is my favorite drift car period and cake to drift stock. Any new person should certainly give it a look. There was even a DSJ on it a while back.

And here it is. DSJ 1

Now...if I could just find that clip I did on Twin Ring. ;)
 
n3 works with 250 ish HP as well. I use them with my IS200 and my MR-S all the time, both are tuned to mid 200 range.

The MR-S is probably my drift car of choice, supercharged to fatten the torque curve.

While the S2000 is nice and balanced (makes a sweet racer), its grip levels combined with a relatively low torque engine make for some tricky drifts.

I almost want to go back and test the Miata. It has lower grip levels, light weight, and a nice short wheel base. Though it might be a bit too short for a novice.
 
Hmmm, messing about this morning I took the RX-7 Bathurst for the first time, it was all right, I got some nice ones in. But now I'm interested in those '91/'93 type R's, definately give it a bash tonight.
 
when you are starting a drift(i peferr making the rearend slide out on its own)
i can stay a little sideways.
i dont understand do you hold the brake or just use throttle control?
can any1 help?
 
when you are starting a drift(i peferr making the rearend slide out on its own)
i can stay a little sideways.
i dont understand do you hold the brake or just use throttle control?
can any1 help?

use everything to your advantage. brakes to correct your line/speed, steering and gas to control your angle/line.
 
Back