TT Tuning
- Thread starter guska
- 92 comments
- 16,243 views
Well, I spent three hours riding around Deep Forest on the 7 Stars Honda playing with the setup, and honestly never beat my time with the default settings. For sure at times it made the bike better/worse handling, but not any great visible improvement.
However I found playing with the suspension for the 'ring made it somewhat easier to stay on the black stuff at high speeds.
This is a good thread idea...
However I found playing with the suspension for the 'ring made it somewhat easier to stay on the black stuff at high speeds.
This is a good thread idea...
- 3,460
- Hollywood
MotoGP bikes are altered for their specific riders. Each new rider gets their own bike which suits them to a large degree. The rest is done with careful tuning and adjustments for each weather condition and track. According to Mr.Burgess, Camel Yamahas team leader, Valentino Rossi can make adjustments as small as 0.1mm to his suspension set-up.
I've been using the stock settings, with only a few minor changes *sometimes*.
In general, if the course has faster corners or doesn't require quick swapping of directions, I'll raise the rear wheel preload 2 numbers and the front by 1. Sometimes I go for just one on the rear and less one on the front. Usually, it stays stock. Dampers - compression and rebound - stay the same, and spring rates stay the same.
Like 99% of the time I add 1 to the front brake setting: 4 front, 3 rear.
When using gearing, I've noticed that no matter what your final drive ratio, the quick adjust numbers are always the same MPH but with different ratios to compensate for whatever monkeying around you've done with the sprockets. So to make this as user friendly as possible, I always start with the lowest (highest number) final drive ratio, and find a quick adjust setting that's MOST like what I want, and then fine-tune it with the final drive adjustment. Obviously to do this, you'll want to start with the MPH on the low side so you can bring it up with the final drive adjustment, which is adjusted all the way low.
The reason I go low on the final drive is to use as large of sprockets as possible. I know it has no bearing in the game, but in real life it equals less chain tension and miniscule extra amounts of horsepower.
I'm pretty excited that TT doesn't rely on vehicle settings as much as the GT series does. While I consider myself pretty good at setting up a car, it's nice to realize that you can get more from having a good style and rider setup than vehicle setup. More like real life, it depends on the input of the rider/driver more than the vehicle. I'm all about people having better skills!! 👍
In general, if the course has faster corners or doesn't require quick swapping of directions, I'll raise the rear wheel preload 2 numbers and the front by 1. Sometimes I go for just one on the rear and less one on the front. Usually, it stays stock. Dampers - compression and rebound - stay the same, and spring rates stay the same.
Like 99% of the time I add 1 to the front brake setting: 4 front, 3 rear.
When using gearing, I've noticed that no matter what your final drive ratio, the quick adjust numbers are always the same MPH but with different ratios to compensate for whatever monkeying around you've done with the sprockets. So to make this as user friendly as possible, I always start with the lowest (highest number) final drive ratio, and find a quick adjust setting that's MOST like what I want, and then fine-tune it with the final drive adjustment. Obviously to do this, you'll want to start with the MPH on the low side so you can bring it up with the final drive adjustment, which is adjusted all the way low.
The reason I go low on the final drive is to use as large of sprockets as possible. I know it has no bearing in the game, but in real life it equals less chain tension and miniscule extra amounts of horsepower.
I'm pretty excited that TT doesn't rely on vehicle settings as much as the GT series does. While I consider myself pretty good at setting up a car, it's nice to realize that you can get more from having a good style and rider setup than vehicle setup. More like real life, it depends on the input of the rider/driver more than the vehicle. I'm all about people having better skills!! 👍
- 108
Hoffmann
Actually I recall seeing the wheelbase. Don't have the game in front of me, but it should be in the garage in the profile for the particular bike. That and it's torque rating, etc.
Uncreated
- 2,216
- Queenstown, South Australia
- guska_Cryotank
- guska1984
If you read the info about the bik (the piece of paper with a paper clip on it) It tells you that the race bikes have been set up with the optimum settings in terms of fork rake, swing arm, tyre pressures and so on. What I want to know is, who is it optimum for? It seems pretty good fof me, but how do i know if I can't change it?
I usually start with everything set at 4, except the rear preload, which i set to 3 (as I like a soft tail), and brake balance at either 6 4, or 7 5, depending on the speed of the track, for a faster track, the brake strength will be set lower than a slower tighter track, as strong brakes from high speeds can unsettle bike very easily.
I only use the auto settings when setting up the gear ratios, as they seem to suit me quite well, I run a few test runs in time trial, and set it up to be almost hitting the limiter in top gear when I need to brake for the corner at the end of the longest straight. I have flown past more powerful bikes with this, and it is a good feeling, as i personally feel that the AI gives a pretty good challenge
I usually start with everything set at 4, except the rear preload, which i set to 3 (as I like a soft tail), and brake balance at either 6 4, or 7 5, depending on the speed of the track, for a faster track, the brake strength will be set lower than a slower tighter track, as strong brakes from high speeds can unsettle bike very easily.
I only use the auto settings when setting up the gear ratios, as they seem to suit me quite well, I run a few test runs in time trial, and set it up to be almost hitting the limiter in top gear when I need to brake for the corner at the end of the longest straight. I have flown past more powerful bikes with this, and it is a good feeling, as i personally feel that the AI gives a pretty good challenge
![[empty space]](/forum/data/avatars/m/47/47550.jpg?1277426423){kind=avatar}
- 3,863
- forever_n00b
- random1self
wow, youve the rear ride height (preload) set at three? ive found some bikes (999r rm and aprilia rsv rm) stop turning and feel really heavy and restist turning in with the front at 4. my 999r rm set up at the ring is 5/7 iirc.
it seems like the bikes are set up for most tracks as default execpt the nordschliefe, deep forest, and trial mountain. the best gains chassis wise seem to come from minor tweaks to preload, brake balance and the gearbox. it seems for most track its best to tweak your form then make minor tweaks to the bike.
the gearbox trick from gt3/4 works really well here too. ive my ducati 999r rm doing 217mph at nordschliefe
it seems like the bikes are set up for most tracks as default execpt the nordschliefe, deep forest, and trial mountain. the best gains chassis wise seem to come from minor tweaks to preload, brake balance and the gearbox. it seems for most track its best to tweak your form then make minor tweaks to the bike.
the gearbox trick from gt3/4 works really well here too. ive my ducati 999r rm doing 217mph at nordschliefe
- 2,216
- Queenstown, South Australia
- guska_Cryotank
- guska1984
I must have missed something here, what's the gearbox trick?
I have my rider leant right over, hanging off the bike, and the just seems to be the best setup for my riding style, and form. Does rider height have any bearing on performance? I have mine set to 190cm, as it doesn't go tall enough (I am 195cm).
I have my rider leant right over, hanging off the bike, and the just seems to be the best setup for my riding style, and form. Does rider height have any bearing on performance? I have mine set to 190cm, as it doesn't go tall enough (I am 195cm).
- 95
[empty space]
I couldnt of said all of that better myself
I got my 1000RR 8 HR bike doing 225 at the Ring and it still redlined 
- 3,863
- forever_n00b
- random1self
gOoSeTeR
set final gear all the way to the right then slide auto gears one to the right then to 1. now use final gear, 5th, and 6th gears to set top speed
you should see some of my pictures, my riders not exactly sitting inline with the bike either. i was trying to get a haga rep style for pictures, but, turns out it works well for most tracks
if there is a differnce, it must not be too major or i must not have noticed it because my rider started 6'1 (my real height) then shrank to 5'4 for a while, up to 5'6 because he looked silly on big, naked rm's then back down to 5'4.
- 108
-Stormryder-I couldnt of said all of that better myself
So THAT'S the method to you nutcases' madness on the Ring. I've turned relatively fast laps myself, but have never beaten 7'15. I'll have to investigate that and decide for myself the ethical implications of this potential hack.
Uncreated
- 3,863
- forever_n00b
- random1self
hack? its a legit way to get the shortst gear ratios possible to get the best acceleration
- 95
The UncreatedSo THAT'S the method to you nutcases' madness on the Ring. I've turned relatively fast laps myself, but have never beaten 7'15. I'll have to investigate that and decide for myself the ethical implications of this potential hack.
Uncreated
Dude... all I messed with was my suspension, brake balance, and final drave ratio. The gears were fine, it was the final drive that bogged me down until I adjusted it. I got it to where it will hit 219 on the top of the hill no more than 1000 rpms from redline
I didnt use the 'gearbox trick' to get my time of 6'48 seconds at the ring (I dont know why your quoting me about that... I wasnt reffering to es's gearbox trick).
Uncreated, if you would be so kind and send me your best lap replay of the ring, I could probably help you.
SportWagon
Premium
- 1,822
- Punkeydoodles Corners, Ontario, Canada. (aka GT2t
Preload == Ride Height, more-or-less, right?
On the Buell RM raising damper rebound slightly seemed to stop it from being skittish during acceleration and especially deceleration. It makes sense that rebound should always be greater than bound. That is, if they are both actually measured in the same units.
Changing gear ratios is relatively easy, and sometimes horribly obviously necessary as you bounce off the rev-limiter on a long straight.
I think raising both front and rear brake balance by the same amount allows you to get more braking for the same input. Changing the relative values apparently gets behaviour more like a car would than a bike would.
I think rider form makes more difference, in general. Especially tweaking the fore-and-aft setting.
On the Buell RM raising damper rebound slightly seemed to stop it from being skittish during acceleration and especially deceleration. It makes sense that rebound should always be greater than bound. That is, if they are both actually measured in the same units.
Changing gear ratios is relatively easy, and sometimes horribly obviously necessary as you bounce off the rev-limiter on a long straight.
I think raising both front and rear brake balance by the same amount allows you to get more braking for the same input. Changing the relative values apparently gets behaviour more like a car would than a bike would.
I think rider form makes more difference, in general. Especially tweaking the fore-and-aft setting.
- 108
-Stormryder-
I'll cut a few more seconds off my time and send along a replay. All I need is simple practice really. Still experimenting with a few bikes to see which fits my style best. Love the nimble feeling of the GSX-R1000RM, but I also get the feeling something is lacking in that bike. Looking forward to unlocking the 8HR Yosh Srixon to see if that's any different.
Uncreated
- 94
I don't ride racing bikes, but for the 'Ring I've found that dropping the bound low and the rebound to just above it (sometimes bound of 1 rebound of 2, depending on the bike) the traction increases dramatically. A few tragically bumpy sections are still tragically bumpy, but the rest of the track is much faster with a "springier" set up.
SportWagon
Premium
- 1,822
- Punkeydoodles Corners, Ontario, Canada. (aka GT2t
How do suspension settings affect control immediately after you've landed from a small bump?
In real life?
In TT?
The cases I'm thinking of in TT are the main straight at Deep Forest and the back straight at Trial Mountain, both of which have a hump capable of getting you airborne just before a corner braking zone.
In general a little more rebound damping seems to help stabilize a bike under acceleration and decleration, but I'm not sure it doesn't make for bad landings--a loss of control for a good hundred feet or so after landing. Perhaps I'd be better to drop bound rather than raising rebound. Sort of like the previous poster suggested.
In real life?
In TT?
The cases I'm thinking of in TT are the main straight at Deep Forest and the back straight at Trial Mountain, both of which have a hump capable of getting you airborne just before a corner braking zone.
In general a little more rebound damping seems to help stabilize a bike under acceleration and decleration, but I'm not sure it doesn't make for bad landings--a loss of control for a good hundred feet or so after landing. Perhaps I'd be better to drop bound rather than raising rebound. Sort of like the previous poster suggested.
- 3,460
- Hollywood
Usually, in real life, a hump followed by a sharp corner is a riders nightmare.
After the bike goes over the hump, the bike has less grip due to the upwards force of the rise in the track surface. Add to this heavy braking and quick down-shifting into the corner and you've got a bike with even less grip due to the back wheel 'stalling' through gear changes and the rear brake slowing the bike down.
Most braking will be done using the front brakes but with inputs light enough to keep the bike settled.
This usually equals a pretty scary rear end slide and these are difficult to control. A lot of riders use slides to their advantage, learning to use the slide to get the front wheel on the right line for the corner.
After the bike goes over the hump, the bike has less grip due to the upwards force of the rise in the track surface. Add to this heavy braking and quick down-shifting into the corner and you've got a bike with even less grip due to the back wheel 'stalling' through gear changes and the rear brake slowing the bike down.
Most braking will be done using the front brakes but with inputs light enough to keep the bike settled.
This usually equals a pretty scary rear end slide and these are difficult to control. A lot of riders use slides to their advantage, learning to use the slide to get the front wheel on the right line for the corner.
SportWagon
Premium
- 1,822
- Punkeydoodles Corners, Ontario, Canada. (aka GT2t
It would seem we would want a sub-forum if we were to start that...
Scaff
Moderator
- 29,589
- He/Him
- ScaffUK
In regard to a sub-forum for TT settings and Tuning I would be more than happy to raise the question with the other mods and admins if we have sufficent interest for it to be worthwhile.
I personally believe it would be of use and as the author of two GT tuning and set-up guides I will be working (have actually started the process) on putting together one for TT.
So lets see some names, who would be interested in a sub-forum on (I suggest) TT Settings, Tuning and Rider Form (which in TT is in some ways another for of tuning).
Regards
Scaff
I personally believe it would be of use and as the author of two GT tuning and set-up guides I will be working (have actually started the process) on putting together one for TT.
So lets see some names, who would be interested in a sub-forum on (I suggest) TT Settings, Tuning and Rider Form (which in TT is in some ways another for of tuning).
Regards
Scaff
SportWagon
Premium
- 1,822
- Punkeydoodles Corners, Ontario, Canada. (aka GT2t
I obviously favour the idea of a sub-forum, and agree with the idea of discussing rider form in there as well.
