Orion
(Banned)
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Drivetrains
FF - Front Engined, Front Wheel Drive Layout:
This drivetrain is known for creating massive amounts of understeer. However, there is a way to solve it. (Later half of this paragraph would explain...) FF cars are NOT a good drivetrain when it comes to acceleration while turning, as that leads to a level beyond understeer, NO STEER. (Especially if you are burning out your front tires.) Understeer can be solved by easing off the gas while turning, while using light throttle while turning can let you have more turning without loosing too much speed while cornering. It does, however accelerate reverse with much more grip than most other drivetrains, and can sometimes beat some 4WD cars in reversing. It is also the best for braking while turning. Is this drivetrain good for endurance races? NO! It will constantly burn the front tires, while the rear tires are only green, the front are RED. FF cars need some fine tuning, like say fast FF cars that tend to spin the inside wheel. Installing a LSD can benifet FF's pretty well, except a little more understeer at times. Also these FF cars needs you to the most time fine tuning it to get it right. It would turn better, grip better, but still not be as good as most FR cars are.From eg6_dude:https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showpost.php?p=2652846&postcount=1 That is a great guide for how to make a good FF car.
FR - Front Engined, Rear Wheel Drive Layout:
The most balanced RWD drivetrain. It doesn't annoy you as much when you try to push it, unlike MR or RR cars. It is known for helping you have a more even weight distribution for the front half and rear half of the car. It has so-so grip while accelerating, but it corners much better than FF cars. This drivetrain also has the tendency to spew white smoke from the inside wheel while cornering, if you are on the gas. That can be solved by lowering the suspension or equipping a LSD. Cars like the S2000 benefits from having this drivetrain, if it was FF, it wouldn't carve apexes and handle so well like it does. It is NOT good in grip while driving in reverse. Is this drivetrain good for endurance races? Depends on the car choice, weight, tires, handling, and track. It does last a lot longer than all FF's would.MR - Mid-Engined, Rear Wheel Drive Layout:
This is my personal favorite drivetrain. It can be tricky while trying to push it to the limits. It offers good cornering performance, oversteer, and good accelerating grip. This is the ultimate drivetrain IMO, since you can smoothly drift, maintain accelerating pushing grip, due to the weight being more closer to the rear tires. You have to be careful while trying to countersteer, since in GT4, there are alot of "Viscous Snapbacks" when you countersteer too much. This will make you initiate another (usually uncontrolable) drift to the opposite direction, throwing you in the grass/sand/wall. If you want to oversteer more while cornering with this drivetrain, let off the gas and there you go. This drivetrain is so-so in grip while reversing. Is this drivetrain good for endurance races? Usually yes if you don't drive too wildly or drifting alot. It also depends on the car choice, weight, tires, handling, and track. Don't think about winning if you keep oversteering and frying your tires, which can be solved by adding a LSD and editing the suspension setup.M-4WD - Mid-Engined, Four Wheel Drive Layout:
This is similar to the MR layout, except with more grip overall. In other words, this drivetrain will understeer more than MR. It does usually understeer less than Front Engined, 4WD layouts. This means even more tremendous grip while accelerating and cornering than MR cars. You still need to let off the gas while trying to do sharp turns, so you don't smack into the wall like some drunken beetle. Few cars feature this drivetrain, such as the wonderful Peugeot 205 or monstrous Tommy Kaira ZZ-II which is basically a Ferrari with GT-R drivetrain IMO. Burnout times are usually very short with this drivetrain, and it has great grip while reversing too. Is this drivetrain good for endurance races? YES, since it usually oversteers slightly more than F-4WD cars means that it wouldn't cook the front tires all the time, unless you are talking about the RUF CTR-2. The RUF CTR-2 is a R-4WD car layout (Rear Engined 4WD) so theres little weight in the front tires to keep it from understeering and burning out. Once you have oversteer, it will last for a short moment atleast, since the rear end would want to keep on drifting. Too bad this car can't get a VCD controller like it was able to in GT3. In some cases, F-4WD cars oversteer more, like with the Skyline GT-R, hard to miss because there are about 30 of those...F-4WD - Front Engined, Four Wheel Drive:
This drivetrain is all about grip and and little oversteer. This drivetrain usually accelerates faster than any other drivetrain, forwards and reverse. It has a downside, UNDERSTEER. This drivetrain is basically a FF with MUCH more grip in accelerating and turning. The front wheels would like to pull you in if you actually get the 4WD thing drifting. It's like a girl that keeps trying to make you do stuff you don't want to do. You need to let off the gas while turning, since it would sometimes turn as bad as a thrown brick. This drivetrain is best for when you are trying to out-grip your opponents from the line, or go full blast on the exit of turns with no side effects. Is this drivetrain good for endurance races? Not exactly, it is O.K. It tends to cook the front tires alot. Especially if you are driving the Audi TT 1.8T Quattro. (Or the so called "Quattro".) That car is a complete FF until you buy a VCD controller. Also if you don't want understeer in a Skyline GT-R, don't ever buy a VCD controller for it. It has a ATTESA Super Hicas system, so it would only be 4WD during acceleration. It would be like a FR during cornering, so it would drift more than many 4WD cars. Installing a VCD would make this system go bye-bye. It would be a 4WD at all times.Here is a great setup for the Lancer Evo, and it works on some other 4WD cars as well. https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showpost.php?p=2615398&postcount=429 From Leonidae.
RR - Rear Engined, Rear Wheel Drive Layout:
This drivetrain offers a variety of handling characteristics. From some handling as silky smooth as the RUF RGT to some handling as sloppy as the Alpine 1300VE. You do have almost the best accelerating grip with this drivetrain, since the engine's weight is on the rear tires. This drivetrain would usually understeer when entering corners and oversteer exiting them. Especially if you lower your throttle input. It can be good for drifting, since if you let off the gas, you would see a lot more oversteer, and as soon as you put your foot on the gas again, (or in this case, the finger to the X button) you straighten out your car and stopped the oversteer. You don't have to countersteer too much with this technique. You can also carve apexes and exit the corners cleanly if you use low throttle input on the entry of corners and high throttle input on the exit. This drivetrain takes true skill to master. Is this drivetrain good for endurance races? It is below average, since the rear likes to swing out, they would cook the rear tires, meaning more oversteer to deal with. It would be hard to handle this drivetrain at times, due to the fact that the rear wants oversteer. Also this is the worst drivetrain when it comes to braking, due to the weight being at the rear, not the front.This should help you if you are having some trouble with these drivetrains. These are just the basics...
Drag Racing
A lot of people like doing 400M test runs of thier cars to see which settings gets you past 1320ft the fastest, or just have a competition with an online friend or someone. Here are a few tips on drag racing with drivetrains and grip...
FWD - Front Wheel Drive cars
These cars have the most trouble getting the power to the ground, as they basically pull the car, not push. You should use the stiffest suspension setup possible, and put the rear ride height all the way up, and the front ride height all the way down. This will put more weight on the front tires, making it have increased grip. Also of course use RSS (R5) tires front and back for more grip. Also buy a LSD and adjust accordingly. Buy a spoiler and increase the front downforce all the way, while keeping the rear at 0. You also should put the heaviest weight ballast, then shift the weight to the front. Then put the Nitrous setting all the way up. Use ratios to help you grip more during first gear, then short gears after that, if you have a powerband that gives most power right by the redline or close to it. You also need good ratios, and if you are having trouble.... BUM BUM BUM.... set the TCS at 1 or 2. This should make a quick little FWD bugger for the drag strip.RWD - Rear Wheel Drive cars
Here you have to do the complete opposite of FF cars. You have to shift all the weight to the rear, only if you are having trouble keeping all of the power on the ground. Especially the TVR Speed 12. Put the front ride height all the way up, and the rear ride height all the way down. Also use the softest suspension setup possible. Buy a LSD to keep the grip going, and use ratios to help you grip more during first gear, then short gears after that, if you have a powerband that gives most power right by the redline or close to it. You should use a manual transmission for these cars. Use the weight ballast and set it to the rear if you are driving a burnout king like the Speed 12. Buy a hideous wing and set the rear downforce all the way up. If you are using a race car, lower the front downforce all the way. That should help you out a bit... If you still have trouble with grip, go with the TCS at 1... Hardcore drag racers never use it though, I only use it on a Speed 12. The weight ballast and downforce thing mentioned above shouldn't be used on any other car RWD car except the Speed 12.4WD - Four Wheel Drive cars
Put the front ride height all the way up, and the rear ride height all the way down. Also use the softest suspension setup possible. Buy a LSD to keep the grip going, and use ratios to help you grip more during first gear, then short gears after that, if you have a powerband that gives most power right by the redline or close to it. The RUF CTR2 needs weight put at the front, as it is a R-4WD car. Also treat the RUF CTR2 like a FF and tune it the same way as I mentioned for the FF cars. It spins the front tires often...LSD
Parnelli Bone
panjandrum
Downforce
Downforce is what makes your car turn much more at high speeds, and in most cases, gives you better lap times. Downforce is more effective as you go faster, but theres a TWIST. The twist is that it reduces your top speed. Downforce works by using the air to push you to the ground as you go faster. without downforce, F1's would just be high powered go-karts. Wouldn't turn as well without downforce. Downforce is like adding weight as you go faster.
Setting the Front higher = More Oversteer, front tires burn faster, makes the back of the car want to drift, but wouldn't cause spinouts, just extreme oversteer.
Setting the Back higher = More stability, A.K.A. understeer. The Rear downforce almost always should be higher than the front downforce. Setting the downforce front and back all the way up is usually good without side effects, other than lower top speed. The only time rear downforce alone makes you faster is when you are trying to do the wheelie glitch.
Wheelie Glitch
1. Have a car with OVER 800 HP. Like the Escudo, GT-one race car, or R390 GT1 Race car.
2. Equip the highest stage turbine kit or NA tune possible.
3. Decrease spring rate to the smallest possible value for both front and rear.
4. Decrease ride height to the smallest possible value for both front and rear.
5. Set the gear ratio's auto setting to the highest level possible.
5. Set the gear ratio's final gear to about 3.000
6. Decrease the front downforce to the smallest possible value.
7. Increase the rear downforce to the largest possible value.
8. Set ASM to level 0.
9. Set TCS to level 0.
10. Install NOS and increase NOS power to largest possible value.
Suspension
Code:
SPRINGS:
Stiffening front end =
Understeers in corners.
More grip, especially when exiting the corner.
Less traction on uneven surfaces.
Front tyres wear out faster
The car is easier to control
Front dips less during deceleration
Stiffening rear end=
Oversteers in corners.
Less grip, especially when exiting the corner.
Less grip on uneven surfaces.
Rear tyre wear increases.
Harder to control
Stiffening both =
Ride height can be dropped so the car gets underbody wacuum
that glues it to the surface of the track.
Less grip on uneven surfaces.
Rear tyres wear more.
Easy to control.
Softening the front =
Oversteers in corners.
Less grip, especially when exiting the corner.
More grip on uneven surfaces.
Front tyre wear decreases
Controlling the car is easier
Could lead to rising the ride height at front.
Front dips more during deceleration
Softening the rear =
Understeers in corners.
More grip when exiting the corner.
More grip on uneven surface.
Less tyre wear
Controlling the car is harder
Could lead to rising ride height at rear
Softening both =
More grip on uneven surfaces.
Less tyre wear.
Car is harder to control.
Could lead to rising the ride height.
Ride height
Lowering the front - oversteers in corners.
Lowering the rear - understeers in corners.
Raising the front - understeers in corners.
Raising the rear - oversteers in corners.
Anti-Rollbar/Stabilizer
Stiffer front stabilizer =
Understeers in corners.
Less grip on uneven surfaces.
Easier to control the car.
Stiffer rear stabilizer =
Oversteers in corners.
Less grip especially when exiting the corner.
Less grip on uneven surfaces.
Rear tyre wear increases.
Easier to control the car.
Stiffening both stabilizers =
Less grip, especially when exciting the corner.
Increases tyre wear.
Easier to control the car.
Softer front stabilizer =
Oversteers in corners.
More grip when exiting the corner.
Less front tyre wear.
Harder to control the car.
Softer rear stabilizer =
Understeers in corners.
More grip on uneven surfaces.
More grip, especially when exiting the corner.
Less rear tyre wear.
Harder to control the car.
Softening both =
Could lead to raising the ride height.
More grip on uneven surfaces.
Less tyre wear.
Harder to control the car.
Bump dampers
prevents the wheel from moving upwards during bump.
Stiffening the front =
Understeers at uneven corners.
Increases front tyre wear.
Stiffening the rear =
Oversteers at uneven corners.
Less grip on uneven surfaces.
Increases rear tyre wear.
Stiffening both =
Less grip on uneven surfaces.
Tyre wear increases.
Harder to control the car on uneven surfaces.
Softening the front =
Oversteers on uneven corners.
Increases tyre wear at front.
Softening the rear =
Understeers on uneven corners.
More grip on uneven surfaces.
Rear tyre wear decreases.
Softening both =
More grip on uneven surfaces.
Less tyre wear.
Rebound dampers
prevents the wheel from moving downwards during bump.
Stiffening the front =
Understeers at the entrance and exit of the corner.
Increases front tyre wear.
Stiffening the rear =
Oversteers at the entrance and exit of the corner.
Less grip at the entrance and exit of the corner.
Stiffening both =
Easier to control the car.
Chassis is more stabile.
Difficult to find correct suspension balance.
Softening the front =
Oversteers at the entrance and exit of the corner.
Less tyre wear at front.
Softening the rear =
Understeers at the entrance and exit of the corner.
More grip at the entrance and exit of the corner.
Less rear tyre wear.
Softening both =
Car is harder to control.
Chassis rolls.
Springs have greater meaning in corners.
Suspension balance
Front-biased =
Understeers while braking, on the entrance of the corner.
Front wheels could lock up.
Longer braking distance.
Rear-biased =
Oversteers while braking, on the entrance of the corner.
Rear wheels could lock up.
Longer braking distance.[/QUOTE]https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=44147
The Breakout Thread.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=94589
Wondered which car you should buy with 4.5 Million Dollors? Read here.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=86704
Also which car you can start out with drifting?
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=93728
And which car is good for starting out with?
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=94176
In my own words on the basics of setting up a car.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showpost.php?p=2707151&postcount=9
About Ratios
Code:
When you are using a car with the peak HP at the end of
the power curve, the tranny trick will improve the acceleration
signifigantly, (Lotus Elise, Esprit, etc.) but if you are using a Rally
Car, JGTC500 Car, Muscle Cars, or other cars where peak HP is
well before the redline, you should NOT use the tranny trick,
especially when using automatic shifting. There is the opposite
of the tranny trick which is useful for these cars, expecially if you
don't want to do the shifting.
[U]Tranny Trick:[/U] Move the "final drive" gear ratio all the way
to the right, or highest setting. Usually 5.499.
Move the "Auto Gear" setting all the way to the left, or it's lowest
setting.
Now adjust the "final drive" accordingly.
[U]Tranny Trick #2[/U] (For cars with peak power falling way
before redline in the power curve.)
Move the "final drive" ratio to the lowest value.
Set the auto setting all the way to 25. (If you want a top speed
higher than the auto setting at 25, put the "final drive" ratio to
the highest possible value. Then set the auto setting to 25, then
adjust "final drive" ratio accordingly.
Adjust the "final drive" ratio accordingly.
An average american muscle car has the power curve falling off
around 2/3's of thier way to the redline, while an average high
performance japanese car has the power curve that keeps gaining
HP, until it reaches very close to redline.
Using the same ratios will limit the Plymouth Barracuda's top speed
in GT4, and ability to pick up speed, because of it's powerband.
The Powerband of it makes it harder to reach it's top speed, and
also NEEDS a manual transmission because of it's powerband.
While the Civic on the other hand can just use automatic in GT4,
because the redline, or even a bit past the redline is where you
get maximum performance. You will need to make use of all/most
of the gears, because you want maximum power when you are
trying to reach the top speed in a car. The Barracuda can get
away with using only 3 gears with a full custom transmission,
because it has the HP and the Torque to pull it through, but
it would still be recommended to use a manual for a typical
muscle car, got to keep the power up if you want to let the
speed pick up.
Cars are like human beings, not one of them are exactly the
same. You can't slap on the same clothes on each person,
as not everyone wears the same size. You can't slap on a
Mini Cooper body kit on a Lamborghini, because they are
not the same.
There is no such thing as optimum ratios for every car, it
depends on what track you are using it on, depends if you
want to have longer gears for better gas mileage, etc.
When you have a car with a long gear, like say the Dodge
Vipers 6th gear, or the Corvette Z06s 6th gear, that
improves gas mileage, atleast in real life anyways. This is
also why the 5th gear on most Lancer Evolutions are deep,
because they want to improve highway mileage.
True... In a race it is important to know your cars power
curve, because sometimes a long gear will be very helpful
in a car like say the BMW 120d, which is a turbo diesel.
Same goes for the Nismo 400R, for some reason the power
falls off very early before redline. Narrow ratios means more
shifting, which sometimes can slow you down on a straight
away, especially in a Peugeot 905 Race Car. The Honda
S2000 for one, will benefit from a close ratio transmission,
which is what it already has, you can fully tune it without
needing a FC Transmission, because it's ratios works well,
but not on the test course. Sometimes you have to make
a car have a very deep gear just to get maximum performance,
but most of the time you don't, just check the power curve of
the car and adjust the ratios accordingly.
When you use longer gears, you only have to shift a few times,
and the 905 has a decent power band to handle these ratios.
I like the Nissan R92CP more than the Pescarolo, because less
shifting is needed. I don't need to downshift/upshift on as many
turns as in a Pescarolo, than a R92CP.
Same goes for the Chapparals. Close ratio isn't the best in every
case, but it is good in cases that far ratio isn't good in, like
exiting corners. On a straightaway, less shifting can either make
or break your speed, depending on what car. Compare the stock
SLR McLaren to the Pagani Zonda C12S. They have similar
Power-Weight ratios, but the McLaren can beat it on some straight
aways because of less shifting and great overall power. The
Pagani Zonda on the other hand has more shifting. This is how
the McLaren can beat the Zonda on a straightaway. Also the
powerband on the zonda is similar to that of a muscle car, even
with manual transmission, the gears make it slow down a bit,
despite the closer ratio transmission.
Now the Subaru Impreza Type-R Coupe vs. the Subaru Impreza
22B STi vs. the Subaru Impreza VI Sedan vs. the New Subaru
WRX STi '03.
22B STi
Great overall power and torque, and very close ratios, as it hits
last gear before reaching 100MPH! It shifts way too much, but
has stunning acceleration, the long 5th gear gives it some top
speed though. It is slower than the STi Sedan, and the STi
Type-R Coupe from 0-100MPH
STi Type-R
Great powerband as well as torque, with less shifting and faster
0-100MPH time than the 22B STi.It is a coupe with longer
gears, and according to PD, aerodynamic lift. It hits the 5th
gear at 111MPH, thus having a higher top speed than a 22B.
Sedan STi VI
Same as the coupe above, but 4 doors and longer ratios.
Faster 0-100MPH time than both of the coupes, and the
5th gear is at 132MPH, meaning more speed. The 4th gear is
just past 100MPH, so that saves it some time from 0-100MPH.
WRX STi GC '03
Powerband falls off a bit near redline, but has 6 gears.
It also has more HP and torque. The ratios are closer,
the 5th gear is at 110MPH, and the 4th is at 85MPH.
It is tied with the STi Sedan VI posted above from 0-100MPH.
What I'm trying to prove is close ratio is not always the way to go.
Okay I edited that part about the Tommy Kaira...
