◆ SNAIL [Spec] Racing - Currently Recruiting for GT7 - JOIN TODAY!!Open 

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Here's that battle me and @rob1nh000d had at deep forest. no capture card sooo i had to make due.....



Thanks for posting this @BayouSimDrifter, I might not have gone back and watched it for a while except for you posting it. That actually had some suspense to it! Even tho I was one of the drivers, I still wondered who would end up in front! FUN!!! and good job @BayouSimDrifter!

btw, I would like to thank @Schmiggz for showing me that racing line.
 
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I think you need to change the batteries in your smoke detector or something. Am I the only person hearing that beeping sound in your video? I just got up to walk around the house to see if it was mine...then I remembered they don't have batteries.

Anyway, nice battle. Very different racing scene compared to the D2 videos I posted earlier, but some epic battles nonetheless.
 
I think you need to change the batteries in your smoke detector or something. Am I the only person hearing that beeping sound in your video? I just got up to walk around the house to see if it was mine...then I remembered they don't have batteries.

Anyway, nice battle. Very different racing scene compared to the D2 videos I posted earlier, but some epic battles nonetheless.
lol yea i need to change the batteries i keep forgetting to do that
 
Should have went with the German version. Way cooler.:sly:
Oddly enough, I actually made the mistake of taking five years of German from 8th grade all the way to my senior year in high school. Probably one of the biggest waste of times in my life. Nothing against the German language, but I've never had a single conversation in German outside of all those German classes. Meanwhile, I was born, raised, and have lived in Texas all my life. Why oh why didn't choose to take Spanish as my language elective instead??? :dunce:
 
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I think you need to change the batteries in your smoke detector or something. Am I the only person hearing that beeping sound in your video? I just got up to walk around the house to see if it was mine...then I remembered they don't have batteries.

Anyway, nice battle. Very different racing scene compared to the D2 videos I posted earlier, but some epic battles nonetheless.

Thanks @chuyler1. I am just curious how the racing scene differs when you are with highly experienced and very fast drivers? Sincerely wondering if you can go into the difference a little. How would you distinguish between the two different levels regarding how the actually racing pans out? I like this perspective and I am sure I would learn something by you breaking it down a little. Thanks.

I WANT TO BE PREPARED!! :mischievous: ,lol :lol:
 
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Oddly enough, I actually made the mistake of taking five years of German from 8th grade all the way to my senior year in high school. Probably one of the biggest waste of times in my life. Nothing against the German language, but I've never had a single conversation in German outside of all those German class. Meanwhile, I was born, raised, and have lived in Texas all my life. Why oh why didn't choose to take Spanish as my language elective instead??? :dunce:

German comes in handy when you download the SKY racing streams of F1 racing and somehow you get the all German version. :)
 
Hey old SNAIL friends, sorry i haven't made any races in the past couple months. Things have been chaotic in the non-virtual world...

Is it cool if I try and join you guys next Sunday in D1? I don't know if there's room for me, but I've been re-practicing my GT6 over the past couple weeks before immediately jumping back in. It'd be great to get back into racing with you all again!
 
Thanks @chuyler1. I am just curious how the racing scene differs when you are with highly experienced and very fast drivers? Sincerely wondering if you can go into the difference a little. How would you distinguish between the two different levels regarding how the actually racing pans out? I like this perspective and I am sure I would learn something by you breaking it down a little. Thanks.

I WANT TO BE PREPARED!! :mischievous: ,lol :lol:
I don't have time to go into gory detail but I noticed the following...

1) Lots of contact. The higher division drivers still make contact but it rarely causes cars to bounce off in all directions.

2) Lots of mistakes. The first lap seemed like chaos with cars going everywhere.

3) Lots of side by side racing. The places you guys can get away with racing side by side would never happen in the higher division because of how slow the lines are. We generally fall in line to avoid losing the draft in a pack.

4) Lots of penalties. I was surprised to see how many cars ghosted on that left hand turn before the first tunnel.

5) Tire smoke everywhere! Gotta keep those tires cool if you want to run fast. Listen to them man. They are screaming for you to lift off the throttle!

6) DS3 controller drivers just look different. There is this lack of fluidity. It may not result in slower lap times but it often looks it as the nose of the car jitters with uneven inputs.
 
Last night was quite enjoyable. All the Div-7 races had good competitive driving in them.
I noticed that my cars seemed to slow up intermittently, wasn't sure if I was getting penalized for some unknown reason, but did confirm after the night's events that my brake potentiometer was getting noisy again.
I could have been faster!

I ordered a Hall sensor that could be a possible replacement for the pots.

Looking forward to more competitive realistic simracing.

@SCCARACER36, what setup/wheel are you using that uses electrical pots that have to be cleaned? I am wondering if in some off chance I might have them too?
 
Hey old SNAIL friends, sorry i haven't made any races in the past couple months. Things have been chaotic in the non-virtual world...

Is it cool if I try and join you guys next Sunday in D1? I don't know if there's room for me, but I've been re-practicing my GT6 over the past couple weeks before immediately jumping back in. It'd be great to get back into racing with you all again!

I have a time trial for you already so, if you could, start a conversation with me later in the week just so I don't forget about this post and I will get you added back to the active roster.
 
I don't have time to go into gory detail but I noticed the following...

1) Lots of contact. The higher division drivers still make contact but it rarely causes cars to bounce off in all directions.

2) Lots of mistakes. The first lap seemed like chaos with cars going everywhere.

3) Lots of side by side racing. The places you guys can get away with racing side by side would never happen in the higher division because of how slow the lines are. We generally fall in line to avoid losing the draft in a pack.

4) Lots of penalties. I was surprised to see how many cars ghosted on that left hand turn before the first tunnel.

5) Tire smoke everywhere! Gotta keep those tires cool if you want to run fast. Listen to them man. They are screaming for you to lift off the throttle!

6) DS3 controller drivers just look different. There is this lack of fluidity. It may not result in slower lap times but it often looks it as the nose of the car jitters with uneven inputs.


Thanks @chuyler1 , as I anticipated, that was very educational. Many good points all in one place. I am copying this into my driving techniques folder!. Thanks
 
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Race Date: 30 March 2014

This week's prize winners are clear to make their selections. Good racing!



IR Submission Form is now closed.

We have 26 incidents on file. Deadline for reviews is NLT 10PM Eastern on Friday, April 4th , 2014. Sooner would be better however.
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It's a little buried but everyone should check out this post.
 
I don't have time to go into gory detail but I noticed the following...

1) Lots of contact. The higher division drivers still make contact but it rarely causes cars to bounce off in all directions.

2) Lots of mistakes. The first lap seemed like chaos with cars going everywhere.

3) Lots of side by side racing. The places you guys can get away with racing side by side would never happen in the higher division because of how slow the lines are. We generally fall in line to avoid losing the draft in a pack.

4) Lots of penalties. I was surprised to see how many cars ghosted on that left hand turn before the first tunnel.

5) Tire smoke everywhere! Gotta keep those tires cool if you want to run fast. Listen to them man. They are screaming for you to lift off the throttle!

6) DS3 controller drivers just look different. There is this lack of fluidity. It may not result in slower lap times but it often looks it as the nose of the car jitters with uneven inputs.
Thanks for the feedback. I have limited time to practice on my wheel so all advice is appreciated
 
You can turn off the names but not the lines.

To turn off the names, go into "watch race", then options...go to the bottom one...I think it's "turn off names". Then check it. This will also turn off names above the cars in the race...which I love.

I looked at the settings in a room under all the icons, and I also looked under MENU in my main AI screen and could not find the option 'watch race'. Is this something that only appears when you are actually in a race, and it is just about to start? Do you have to set it each time for each race? How do you get to the 'watch race' option. I hope it is not only available after the race during watching the replay. Thanks @JoeW (p.s. nice work on getting to the bottom of things).
 
I looked at the settings in a room under all the icons, and I also looked under MENU in my main AI screen and could not find the option 'watch race'. Is this something that only appears when you are actually in a race, and it is just about to start? Do you have to set it each time for each race? How do you get to the 'watch race' option. Thanks @JoeW (p.s. nice work on getting to the bottom of things).
Yeah, you need to be in a lobby. Select your car. Then you should be able to click the green binocular "watch race" icon. While in this viewing mode, select options, then disable names.
 
Yeah, you need to be in a lobby. Select your car. Then you should be able to click the green binocular "watch race" icon. While in this viewing mode, select options, then disable names.

Sorry to bug you again. Is this a persistent choice, or does one have to make sure to change it every time entering a new room where you will be qualifying at some point?
 
You change it once per lobby visit. So do it at the beginning of the night and the rest of the night in that lobby is good.
 
This is a separate question so I am starting a new post. I thought about putting this in my division conversation, because it is kind of an extension to how I did last night, but I think there might be some knowledgeable people in other divisions as well regarding this.

Question 1> So, one of the mistakes I made last night which really made it harder for me on Slippy SPA, was change my steering sensitivity setting about one hour before the races actually started :dunce:. Ya, I know, it was stupid of me to be experimenting right in a Sunday night race, but I admit, I was kind of desperately searching for an advantage since I was frustrated that my times were not a little better, especially at Deep Forest. So I succumbed to the little devil on my right shoulder whispering in my ear 'do it, Rob1nh000d, d000d! You'll have an advantage. The stupid part came in with the fact that I did not really have any idea, what the :censored:k, the setting REALLY DOES. I did ask someone in the racing lobby about it and they knew it helped with using a controller verses a steering wheel (makes the controller not turn the steering from one extreme to the other more easily, evidently on a higher setting, which is confusing in itself and leads to my inverse question below).
a. However, for best steering response or best steering 'something else' "WITH A WHEEL" what does this range (-2 to 7) do? (What is more sensitive - the distance turned or how rapidly it turns in proportion to the amount your actually turning it? Or something else?)
b. What is best practice regarding this setting with a Wheel as opposed to a controller?
c. If it does 'something else' what is it?
d. Does it change the degrees of rotation?
e. Does it change the linearity of rotation in a different shaped curve (it turns faster as you get to a further turn in either direction)? Is it a flat increase of sensitivity or is it a gradual increase in sensitivity as you turn your wheel more?
f. Is it inversely proportional?
g. Does it do something that the total available degrees of rotation setting on a wheel does not do?? For instance, could it make the total effective degrees greater than 900 degrees?
h. Have you really fast, experienced racers learned to use this setting to an advantage?
i. As with most settings (like brake balance), you can't get beyond the physic's limits, and they say there are always tradeoffs, is that true in this case? If so, what are the tradeoffs?

When I did a startpage search on the Internet I found one person who said when they set it all the way down, their car feels like a lumbering beast, and all the way up, it turns sharper, so they set it to 4. Is this a rookie move? It did seem to me that the car turned a little sharper when I turned it up, and this seemed to help me at Deep Forest, but it seemed to mess me up on SPA (I had run about 50 passes on just going up Eau Rouge that week and had the damn thing very 'felt'. THEN I GO AND CHANGE MY STEERING SENSATIVITY!!! just before the race, WHAT!!!:banghead: Also, on SPA, with my brake balance at 3 and 7 (or 8) in combination with my newly cranked steering sensitivity, it did seem that suddenly my normal braking points and breaking amount was resulting in more back end braking away on certain sweepers and the last, tight, right-hand turn (the one where you brake hard and shift from 4th to 3rd) before going to the tricky semi-tight right-hand turn onto the long back sweeper. It also seemed that I had to be just a tad more careful about getting on the gas through this tricky 2nd turn which is critical because it leads to such a long straight, plus I have been told a number of times now that exit speed itself is critical. Maybe it hurt my full acceleration point because my wheel was turned more than I realized as I was winding and unwinding it through this turn.

Question 2> What is the difference between Professional steering and Simulation steering in the game? Which choice makes for a better top level racer once practiced, trained and experienced with that setting?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Division 6 Highlights


I have to start out by thanking everyone in D6 for one of the best and most fun seasons I have had in a long time. Everyone from Team SNAIL and all of the drivers stuck together and overcame some nasty network buggery and kept the racing and the spirit of SNAIL the number one priority. Last night was the perfect ending to an epic season.

Over the past few weeks I have found myself duking it out with everyone in the division at some point and last night was no exception. There was never any breathing room. All I could do was stand on it in the straights and try to prepare myself for the next round of attacks.

I may not have won my division this time but I did manage a respectable 2nd overall. I have to say it was also a real treat to watch and be a part of @TEX36 's rise to glory! He put on a clinic this month and I enjoyed every minute of it. You D5 guys better watch your six next season. Not bad @TEX36 !


Pole Position

Race 1: @USERID_77a23 Race 2: @Azure Flare Race 3: @Azure Flare


Race Winners:


Fast Laps:

  • Round 1: Race 1: @GTP_lousteezy
  • Round 1: Race 2: @GTP_lousteezy
  • Round 2: Race 1: @USERID_77a23
  • Round 2: Race 2: @USERID_77a23
  • Round 3: Race 1: @goofytyler
  • Round 3: Race 2: @digilmprov



Division 6 scores, votes. data and replays have been completed!
 
This is a separate question so I am starting a new post. I thought about putting this in my division conversation, because it is kind of an extension to how I did last night, but I think there might be some knowledgeable people in other divisions as well regarding this.

Question 1> So, one of the mistakes I made last night which really made it harder for me on Slippy SPA, was change my steering sensitivity setting about one hour before the races actually started :dunce:. Ya, I know, it was stupid of me to be experimenting right in a Sunday night race, but I admit, I was kind of desperately searching for an advantage since I was frustrated that my times were not a little better, especially at Deep Forest. So I succumbed to the little devil on my right shoulder whispering in my ear 'do it, Rob1nh000d, d000d! You'll have an advantage. The stupid part came in with the fact that I did not really have any idea, what the :censored:k, the setting REALLY DOES. I did ask someone in the racing lobby about it and they knew it helped with using a controller verses a steering wheel (makes the controller not turn the steering from one extreme to the other more easily, evidently on a higher setting, which is confusing in itself and leads to my inverse question below).
a. However, for best steering response or best steering 'something else' "WITH A WHEEL" what does this range do; -2 to 7.
b. What is best practice with a Wheel as opposed to a controller?
c. If it is 'something else' what is it?
d. Does it change the degrees of rotation?
e. Does it change the linearity of rotation in a different shaped curve (it turns faster as you get to a further turn in either direction)?
f. Is it inversely proportional?
g. Can it do something that degrees of rotation setting on a wheel does not do??
h. Have you really fast, experienced racers learned to use this setting to an advantage?
i. As with most settings (like brake balance), you can't get beyond the physic's limits, so there are always tradeoffs, is that true in this case? If so, what are the tradeoffs?

I could be far off, anyone can correct me if I am... but Steering Sensitivity is like a ration. Although steering sensitivity doesn't work with wheels, this explanation may answer a few questions:

If your standard wheel has 900 deg. of rotation, it can freely spin in that 900 deg. range from lock to lock. However, if you're on a wheel, the input only has about a 360 deg. range. In basic terms, the wheel turns a lot farther than it needs to for what the effective input range is.

To make sense of this as far as steering sensitivity goes, the higher the number (Ex: 7) will make the movements of the analog stick move your car more quickly through the effective range of steering. A setting like -2 will make the car's steering input more smooth, but slower through the range.

As far as linearity goes, I think GT models steering in an exponential matter. This is more prominent on a wheel. If you turn the wheel 50 deg. left, its a much more noticeable difference that the wheel being turned 50 deg. from 310 to 360 deg. So the closer you are to steering lock, the less of an impact your inputs will have on handling.

As far as using the setting myself, you can be the judge of my ability, I don't know if I'm fast or not, but I keep it set at 0. I am on a DFGT. It's one less variable I have to worry about.

If you play on a controller, think of it like aim sensitivity on a shooter. Play with the setting as high as you can comfortably play without compromising consistency for the best advantage over others.

Kind of a wordy explanation, but I hope this helps, as I dunno what kind of other answers you'll get at 2:30AM. :)
 
I could be far off, anyone can correct me if I am... but Steering Sensitivity is like a ration. Although steering sensitivity doesn't work with wheels, this explanation may answer a few questions:

If your standard wheel has 900 deg. of rotation, it can freely spin in that 900 deg. range from lock to lock. However, if you're on a wheel, the input only has about a 360 deg. range. In basic terms, the wheel turns a lot farther than it needs to for what the effective input range is.

To make sense of this as far as steering sensitivity goes, the higher the number (Ex: 7) will make the movements of the analog stick move your car more quickly through the effective range of steering. A setting like -2 will make the car's steering input more smooth, but slower through the range.

As far as linearity goes, I think GT models steering in an exponential matter. This is more prominent on a wheel. If you turn the wheel 50 deg. left, its a much more noticeable difference that the wheel being turned 50 deg. from 310 to 360 deg. So the closer you are to steering lock, the less of an impact your inputs will have on handling.

As far as using the setting myself, you can be the judge of my ability, I don't know if I'm fast or not, but I keep it set at 0. I am on a DFGT. It's one less variable I have to worry about.

If you play on a controller, think of it like aim sensitivity on a shooter. Play with the setting as high as you can comfortably play without compromising consistency for the best advantage over others.

Kind of a wordy explanation, but I hope this helps, as I dunno what kind of other answers you'll get at 2:30AM. :)

Thank you @CarCzar, in statement two do you mean that the game is programmed to only see (or process) 360 degrees even if the wheel can turn 900 degrees? And if this is the case, it divides 360 degress by the physical rotation of a wheel. (e.g. 360/900 = .4 degrees) So every one degree of turn on the wheel is only .4 degrees of turn in the game (which makes the wheel more precise? (Is it 360 degrees total or 360 degrees in either direction in the game)

And/or are you saying that after 360 physical degrees of rotation of a wheel (180 in either direction) nothing more is happening to the wheels of the car in the game?

Or are you saying that the sensitivity setting only changes how rapidly the game thinks you are turning (not how far). Isn't a steering wheel always going to be a slower turn than a controller since there is a lot less physical distance from one end to the other end of input on a controller than on a wheel. If this is the case, the only thing the setting is doing is making a controller with a rapid movement be applied slower in the game?? And slower input, which is smoother driving, I am told is better race technique, and, you are getting this naturally with a wheel already. Since it would be very hard to turn a wheel as quickly as flicking a stick the input of the wheel would never need to be slowed since it would not reach some threshold of speed of input. (I have never used a controller in GT).

After having worked through developing my question, and worked through your answer up to this point, it just occurred to me that the front wheels of a car would never be able to turn a full circle, and actually they can't even probably turn a full 90 degrees (I have never seen a front tire turned perpendicular to the car -- except maybe after a wreck). So the tire is turning probably about 75 degrees maximum?? So this again needs to divided into the game and then into the wheel... So where does this leave us with the sensitivity setting??

I'll take a stab at this. 75 actual wheel turn divided by 360 = .208 divided by 900 = no this seems wrong... 75 /900 = .083 , that's less than one/tenth a degree of car wheel turn for one degree of turn of the steering wheel. 75 /840 = .089 not much more. I wonder how precise an actual racing car steering wheel is when turning the wheel on the racing car. Here I think I am talking about gear ratio in the steering gear box, and, upon reflection, not what the game would be referring to as steering sensitivity, because in real life there isn't any such thing as exponential in a steering gear box, right??

Also, what do you mean in statement one when you say it doesn't work with wheels, Do you mean that it has no effect (cause I seemed to feel a difference), or that it doesn't make things better in actual practice when using a wheel?

To make things more confusing, my wheel seems to have about 840 degrees of actual physical rotation, 360 + 360 + about a third more. It seems to be short about 60 degrees.

Now that I see how small of changes of degrees we are talking about, maybe the only question is if the sensitivity setting makes the turn more or less exponential (which you already said in your answer, but I didn't really get until now), which might boil down to how far you have to crank the wheel at the end of your turning, So it would be about the same in slight to average turning, but when having to turn more (which is probably bad racing technique) you would have to turn less to get more extra turning. So leaving it at zero makes for better racing technique because it makes it harder to over turn????

Also, in actual practice, I am almost never turning my wheel 90 degrees in one direction, except in hairpin turns, like the final s turn at SPA, which would be only about 8 degrees of actual tire turn if I am right about the relationship of 840 degrees to 75 degrees in the car. And, normally I am only turning about half that for most corners which is about 40 degrees on my wheel, which would only be about 3 to 4 degrees on the car tire - can this be right?
If this is about right, then the differences are so small, that it only really boils down to how it feels and performs as one practices and races. Again, do any of you drivers with long experience and highly competitive results really alter this setting in different situations or is it inconsequential. (I know @CarCzar you said you leave it at zero, thanks again)

This brings up another question. Do all the cars in GT6 have the same turning ratio to your input, or is it different for different cars?
 
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Division 6 Highlights


I have to start out by thanking everyone in D6 for one of the best and most fun seasons I have had in a long time. Everyone from Team SNAIL and all of the drivers stuck together and overcame some nasty network buggery and kept the racing and the spirit of SNAIL the number one priority. Last night was the perfect ending to an epic season.

Over the past few weeks I have found myself duking it out with everyone in the division at some point and last night was no exception. There was never any breathing room. All I could do was stand on it in the straights and try to prepare myself for the next round of attacks.

I may not have won my division this time but I did manage a respectable 2nd overall. I have to say it was also a real treat to watch and be a part of @TEX36 's rise to glory! He put on a clinic this month and I enjoyed every minute of it. You D5 guys better watch your six next season. Not bad @TEX36 !


Pole Position

Race 1: @USERID_77a23 Race 2: @Azure Flare Race 3: @Azure Flare


Race Winners:

Fast Laps:

  • Round 1: Race 1: @GTP_lousteezy
  • Round 1: Race 2: @GTP_lousteezy
  • Round 2: Race 1: @USERID_77a23
  • Round 2: Race 2: @USERID_77a23
  • Round 3: Race 1: @goofytyler
  • Round 3: Race 2: @digilmprov



Division 6 scores, votes. data and replays have been completed!
Why do I always miss the good things in life?
 
FmeorCJ.png


Race Date: 30 March 2014

This week's prize winners are clear to make their selections. Good racing!



IR Submission Form is now closed.

We have 26 incidents on file. Deadline for reviews is NLT 10PM Eastern on Friday, April 4th , 2014. Sooner would be better however.
Banners by dabneyd
In case anyone missed this post. The winners are clear to make their picks
 
Thank you @CarCzar, in statement two do you mean that the game is programmed to only see (or process) 360 degrees even if the wheel can turn 900 degrees? And if this is the case, it divides 360 degress by the physical rotation of a wheel. (e.g. 360/900 = .4 degrees) So every one degree of turn on the wheel is only .4 degrees of turn in the game (which makes the wheel more precise? (Is it 360 degrees total or 360 degrees in either direction in the game)

And/or are you saying that after 360 physical degrees of rotation of a wheel (180 in either direction) nothing more is happening to the wheels of the car in the game?

Or are you saying that the sensitivity setting only changes how rapidly the game thinks you are turning (not how far). Isn't a steering wheel always going to be a slower turn than a controller since there is a lot less physical distance from one end to the other end of input on a controller than on a wheel. If this is the case, the only thing the setting is doing is making a controller with a rapid movement be applied slower in the game?? And slower input, which is smoother driving, I am told is better race technique, and, you are getting this naturally with a wheel already. Since it would be very hard to turn a wheel as quickly as flicking a stick the input of the wheel would never need to be slowed since it would not reach some threshold of speed of input. (I have never used a controller in GT).

After having worked through developing my question, and worked through your answer up to this point, it just occurred to me that the front wheels of a car would never be able to turn a full circle, and actually they can't even probably turn a full 90 degrees (I have never seen a front tire turned perpendicular to the car -- except maybe after a wreck). So the tire is turning probably about 75 degrees maximum?? So this again needs to divided into the game and then into the wheel... So where does this leave us with the sensitivity setting??

I'll take a stab at this. 75 actual wheel turn divided by 360 = .208 divided by 900 = no this seems wrong... 75 /900 = .083 , that's less than one/tenth a degree of car wheel turn for one degree of turn of the steering wheel. 75 /840 = .089 not much more. I wonder how precise an actual racing car steering wheel is when turning the wheel on the racing car. Here I think I am talking about gear ratio in the steering gear box, and, upon reflection, not what the game would be referring to as steering sensitivity, because in real life there isn't any such thing as exponential in a steering gear box, right??

Also, what do you mean in statement one when you say it doesn't work with wheels, Do you mean that it has no effect (cause I seemed to feel a difference), or that it doesn't make things better in actual practice when using a wheel?

To make things more confusing, my wheel seems to have about 840 degrees of actual physical rotation, 360 + 360 + about a third more. It seems to be short about 60 degrees.

Now that I see how small of changes of degrees we are talking about, maybe the only question is if the sensitivity setting makes the turn more or less exponential (which you already said in your answer, but I didn't really get until now), which might boil down to how far you have to crank the wheel at the end of your turning, So it would be about the same in slight to average turning, but when having to turn more (which is probably bad racing technique) you would have to turn less to get more extra turning. So leaving it at zero makes for better racing technique because it makes it harder to over turn????

Also, in actual practice, I am almost never turning my wheel 90 degrees in one direction, except in hairpin turns, like the final s turn at SPA, which would be only about 8 degrees of actual tire turn if I am right about the relationship of 840 degrees to 75 degrees in the car. And, normally I am only turning about half that for most corners which is about 40 degrees on my wheel, which would only be about 3 to 4 degrees on the car tire - can this be right?
If this is about right, then the differences are so small, that it only really boils down to how it feels and performs as one practices and races. Again, do any of you drivers with long experience and highly competitive results really alter this setting in different situations or is it inconsequential. (I know @CarCzar you said you leave it at zero, thanks again)

This brings up another question. Do all the cars in GT6 have the same turning ratio to your input, or is it different for different cars?
It's a wee bit early for me to be able to process all this technical info, but as far as I've read about it the in game setting you're referring to (controller sensitivity) only changes steering input from a controller. I have read of people saying it changes the feel of an actual wheel but I've messed with it and not seen any difference. If you want to change the sensitivity of your steering wheel have a go at this thread here (assuming you have a g27 or dfgt)

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/g27-g25-dfgt-undocumented-wheel-lock-settings-guide.286646/

They also go into all the detail concerning your questions about degrees of rotation and other fun facts of that ilk.
 
@rob1nh000d

@deaconblues82 has you heading down the right path. That entire thread changed my driving and made it feel much closer to natural, if for no other reason than removing the dead zone. If you are using a DFGT what is described in that thread and shown here may not work.

The Controller Sensitivity does nothing for wheels.

Steering ratios can vary by the car and are adjusted somewhat by the game software. The game software does not however, change the deadzone. At all. It will exist as it is, no matter what car you drive. For G27 and G25 users, that deadzone can be eliminated at the hardware level with the instructions in the first post.

You might consider using less force feedback and turning the power assist off. I run FFB at 4 on my G27 and ran it there when I was using a DFGT.
 
German comes in handy when you download the SKY racing streams of F1 racing and somehow you get the all German version. :)
I usually just watch it on NBC but squirrelstream (I think it's called) has really good HD quality streaming in English.

Edit: Also, Will Buxton is on reddit apologizing for talking over the driver's radio communications on-air as well as answering some questions: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/21vn1u/dear_will_buxton/
 
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@rob1nh000d follow that link indeed. Lots of good info in that thread. Wish they would sticky it. Anyway, that is the only way to adjust the steering ratio of the wheel. As far as I know, adjusting the controller sensitivity does nothing. Also, when you are in the setting menu, adjusting the wheel setting there, pay attention to what is highlighted, not very option applies to every wheel. There are options that only apply to the DFGT and some That only apply to to the g25-7 or fanatec wheels.
Further, the amount that thevtires themselves turn is set by the game. Nothing you do can change it. Same with the wheel in the game. It will only turn a set amount of turns. The physical wheel itself, if it is. G27, and be set following the instructions given in the link above. Now here is the confusing bit. The tires are synched to the physical wheel, not the in game steering wheel. So, when in cockpit view, you turn the real wheel when the in game wheel hits 90° for center to, let's say, the left, The in game wheel will stop, however, the tires and real wheel will continue to turn until the real wheel hits its stop. Savvy?
 
In case anyone missed this post. The winners are clear to make their picks

I think the mentioning of fish has scared the crowd. I can't wait to see what @ptslopoke has in store for us.

The round that received the second most elimination votes was:
Round 1 - Honda Integra Type R (DC5) Touring Car '04 (Race Hard tires) at Deep Forest Raceway (8 laps)
This means either the car or the track will be replaced for next week's line-up. Since @AG07WRXTR gets Prize B, he has the option to "freeze" the car or the track, or he can that option to the Prize C winner. If he gives the "freeze" away, then he gets to decide what car or track replaces the part of the combo that is left unfrozen by the Prize C winner.

Prize C goes to @racefan78 so he gets whichever option the Prize B winner does not select.

@AG07WRXTR will you be freezing the DC5 or the track Deep Forest?
@racefan78

Will any of you be testing tonight?


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moving to new post
 
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