◆ SNAIL [Spec] Racing - Currently Recruiting for GT7 - JOIN TODAY!!Open
- Thread starter zer05ive
- 150,151 comments
- 8,715,995 views
- 5,377
- Bel Air, MD
- NOVA-0479
More to do with the pedals than the wheel. Invest in the TruBrake V2.2. Takes a minute to get used to, but being a load cell, braking is much more precise. Made a huge difference for me.
- 3,567
- London, ON
- A_Mindful_Place
- 5,377
- Bel Air, MD
- NOVA-0479
TrueBrake V2.2 - GT Edition (Inc. All spring options) - Brake Pedal Mod for Logitech G25/G27/G29/G920/G923
Improved lap times. Consistent trail braking. TrueBrake is the most cost effective mod for your Logitech brake pedal. Get on pole with TrueBrake in your Logitech Pedals! Suitable for all G25 G27 G29 G920 G923 Logitech Pedals.
www.axc-sim.com
- 2,143
- Ocho Rios
- Marcus__Garvey
Upgrade your rig/equipment to gain immersion, rather than speed. In fact, a lot of the new hotness like high torque wheels and motion rigs are more likely to slow you down than anything. Assuming you have a solid non-movable place to mount the wheel, and a G29 or better; you aren't leaving much if any time on the table under most circumstances.
As an example, non-abs on sports or comfort tyres is one place a good load cell can show you some quick results. But, with practice you can still run the same times with a G29. It's just that with a load cell it may be easier to run those times with no-abs, so you may be able to get down to your best lap with less practice time. And that difference becomes diminished with greater grip and aero.
There is a maximum pace for a given car and track, though. No matter whether you are using a G29, T500RS, or simagic wheel; there is a lap time that is as fast as the car will get around the track. How close you can get to that is the name of the game.
With enough practice, the lap time difference between even a controller and a price no object sim rig is measured in tenths or less. And sometimes the controller is faster lol.
As an example, non-abs on sports or comfort tyres is one place a good load cell can show you some quick results. But, with practice you can still run the same times with a G29. It's just that with a load cell it may be easier to run those times with no-abs, so you may be able to get down to your best lap with less practice time. And that difference becomes diminished with greater grip and aero.
There is a maximum pace for a given car and track, though. No matter whether you are using a G29, T500RS, or simagic wheel; there is a lap time that is as fast as the car will get around the track. How close you can get to that is the name of the game.
With enough practice, the lap time difference between even a controller and a price no object sim rig is measured in tenths or less. And sometimes the controller is faster lol.
Nicktune
Premium
- 1,258
- T-R
- Nic-KL
A higher end wheel will give you more feedback when you go past the grip limit with your front tires. (The force feedback falls off a cliff and it starts to vibrate.)
I made a post to our friend @Noob01_lmdead a couple years ago. I could see him shredding his front tires during the race. If he was on a higher end wheel he would have known, but on some wheels it's hard to tell where the limit is.
A higher end wheel can make you faster in that way, but it wouldn't change anything for me since I'm not using much steering angle to begin with.
Something you could do right now is to increase your tire sound and/or lower everything else. (Sound is also a feedback)
Notice the tire squeal between both cars:
- 3,567
- London, ON
- A_Mindful_Place
Thanks @Nicktune . Tyre squeal is something I notice a lot with my driving. It's not something that is easily gauged with the g29 imo. Perhaps I'll play with the sounds and work on listening to the tyres more.
I feel like my G29 has a dead spot near the centre and there is hardly any turning input on the immediate either side of it. I think, over time, this has trained me to oversteer the wheel and shred tyres.
I feel like my G29 has a dead spot near the centre and there is hardly any turning input on the immediate either side of it. I think, over time, this has trained me to oversteer the wheel and shred tyres.
- 44
- West Atlantic City NJ
- Pudnick
I have the thrustmaster 300 and run into the same problem. Only with my brake though. I opened it up and cleaned everything twice before i ended up swapping the clutch for the brake. That was a year ago and it started acting up again during my TT for novall’s leaugue. (Unintentional sandbag LOL). It gets easier and faster every time I do it. Did you have to solder any connections when you did your replacement? Eventually Im going to upgrade to the thrustmaster load cell system. I also read or watched something where they said precision braking was more important than the wheel.
- 3,567
- London, ON
- A_Mindful_Place
Interesting. No I didn't solder anything I just tightly wrapped the copper wire around the connectors as best as I could. It's all I currently have the tools for. It seems to work fine and may need to be dusted every once and awhile.
I will be considering the load cell pedals in the future.
- 44
- West Atlantic City NJ
- Pudnick
Upshifting earlier will help with the understeer out of the apex you get with FF cars.
- 2,143
- Ocho Rios
- Marcus__Garvey
You can increase the ffb sensitivity and that will tighten the on-centre feel on the g29. So much so, that it will oscillate back and forth bouncing off the motors on the straights if you crank it all the way.
Conversely, high ffb sensitivity can make it easier to spin a car and harder to recover, particularly with more responsive cars like the formula cars.
To elaborate on what Nick said, one of the core characteristics of my driving is using as little steering angle as necessary, and as little brake force as necessary. Keeping it simple, let's forget about everything else; turning the wheel slows the car down. The car accelerates more the less the wheel is turned. Tyre scrub increases drag on at the contact patch, a power steering car pulls power when turned, etc. So use as little steering input as possible to get the car to do what you want and it will not only be faster in the corners but it will get down the straight faster, too.
Turning the wheel also causes jacking. You'll notice, both in your real car and in the game; that if you sit still and turn the wheel back and forth thr nose will rise and fall. And one corner will come up, then go down. This is because of suspension caster, which causes the centre of the contact patch to change as you steer. Picture a Harley chopper, if you turn the front wheel all the way it lays over and the nose of bike is lower. Same thing happens in your car, but on both front corners.
If you are finding yourself crossed up on the wheel in a corner, you need to slow down and yaw the car in other ways, like braking and weight transfer. Rather than just turning the wheel.
One of the first things I teach a new student, is that when a car begins to understeer, you unwind the wheel. It is counterintuitive, as most people's brain tells them to steer more when the car won't turn. But try it, go out there in something in Sports Hards and blow the entry to a big sweeper like T1 at Yamigawa. Push the car into understeer, so it's all bound up....and then open the wheel and watch the car dive to the inside of the turn. Try it, you'll like it!
Back when I was spending a lot of time instructing at solo events, I would always hand out to my students a cheat sheet. It is geared towards autocross novices, hence the bits about downshifting, etc. It was also written in the 90s by a close friend and my first instructor, so some things like shuffle steer are mostly obsolete(that was from when cars had much slower steering ratios 25+ years ago) and you should park your hands at 9 and 3 and never move them in the sim. But, the rest of it is still valid advice. Pay particular attention to #11.
I still have a stack of these. I need to update that both for modern equipment(don't shuffle unless you have to like my 32 year old race car. Also need to make a road race focused version as I mostly instruct at the track now. Replace "cone" with "curb" and it translates pretty well. And yes, keeping your eyes up is important enough to mention many times. Still to this day, I catch my eyes dropping and I will even say to myself out loud in the car "keep your eyes up" and look ahead." #5 is a gem.
Best of luck folks!
Conversely, high ffb sensitivity can make it easier to spin a car and harder to recover, particularly with more responsive cars like the formula cars.
To elaborate on what Nick said, one of the core characteristics of my driving is using as little steering angle as necessary, and as little brake force as necessary. Keeping it simple, let's forget about everything else; turning the wheel slows the car down. The car accelerates more the less the wheel is turned. Tyre scrub increases drag on at the contact patch, a power steering car pulls power when turned, etc. So use as little steering input as possible to get the car to do what you want and it will not only be faster in the corners but it will get down the straight faster, too.
Turning the wheel also causes jacking. You'll notice, both in your real car and in the game; that if you sit still and turn the wheel back and forth thr nose will rise and fall. And one corner will come up, then go down. This is because of suspension caster, which causes the centre of the contact patch to change as you steer. Picture a Harley chopper, if you turn the front wheel all the way it lays over and the nose of bike is lower. Same thing happens in your car, but on both front corners.
If you are finding yourself crossed up on the wheel in a corner, you need to slow down and yaw the car in other ways, like braking and weight transfer. Rather than just turning the wheel.
One of the first things I teach a new student, is that when a car begins to understeer, you unwind the wheel. It is counterintuitive, as most people's brain tells them to steer more when the car won't turn. But try it, go out there in something in Sports Hards and blow the entry to a big sweeper like T1 at Yamigawa. Push the car into understeer, so it's all bound up....and then open the wheel and watch the car dive to the inside of the turn. Try it, you'll like it!
Back when I was spending a lot of time instructing at solo events, I would always hand out to my students a cheat sheet. It is geared towards autocross novices, hence the bits about downshifting, etc. It was also written in the 90s by a close friend and my first instructor, so some things like shuffle steer are mostly obsolete(that was from when cars had much slower steering ratios 25+ years ago) and you should park your hands at 9 and 3 and never move them in the sim. But, the rest of it is still valid advice. Pay particular attention to #11.
I still have a stack of these. I need to update that both for modern equipment(don't shuffle unless you have to like my 32 year old race car. Also need to make a road race focused version as I mostly instruct at the track now. Replace "cone" with "curb" and it translates pretty well. And yes, keeping your eyes up is important enough to mention many times. Still to this day, I catch my eyes dropping and I will even say to myself out loud in the car "keep your eyes up" and look ahead." #5 is a gem.
Best of luck folks!
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- 3,567
- London, ON
- A_Mindful_Place
@Marcus Garvey this is amazing. Thank you for sharing! My bad habit when turning in is (usually after a missed braking point) 'yoinking' the wheel severely into the corner to get turn in and then recentering my wheel to follow back into he turn and then smoothly out. All of this happens in the milliseconds before the apex.
I have become aware of the understeering you mention and that increasing turning angle doesn't help. What I didn't know was that releasing that angle back toward center would cause the tyres to regrip and find the line again. I'll practice this purposefully and see how it goes!
I have my ffb and sensitivity set at 7 which is enough for me. Anything more and my shoulders are on fire after one lap. Anything less and the car feels too much like a cloud.
I have become aware of the understeering you mention and that increasing turning angle doesn't help. What I didn't know was that releasing that angle back toward center would cause the tyres to regrip and find the line again. I'll practice this purposefully and see how it goes!
I have my ffb and sensitivity set at 7 which is enough for me. Anything more and my shoulders are on fire after one lap. Anything less and the car feels too much like a cloud.
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- 1
- United States
I have read the first post and would like to join I heard about you guys through another forum and would love to join
- 244
- Niagara Region
- DRD_Niagara
Getting ready for tomorrow night.
Might not perform well but doing my best to look good.
Might not perform well but doing my best to look good.
Dragonwhisky
Premium
- 6,878
- the land of green, hills, rocks & whiskey
- Dragonwhisky
Since Nuno appears to be otherwise occupied, I'll do it. @scrawni_kills If you want to race tomorrow night you will have limited time to get everything you will be tasked with done by Midnight ET tonight. I reckon you can take this as a race against that clock. Not really a big deal if you don't get it done tonight. You can work it over the week and start racing with us Sunday after next, since we don't race on Super Bowl Sunday.
@scrawni_kills
Here's your official SNAIL Welcome Post!
Thanks for your interest!
Here's what you need to know (and do) in order to join SNAIL Racing League:
We run a clean league by enforcing a strict penalty system based on the SNAIL OLR (which is a modified version of the GTP OLR). We also expect all of our drivers to know and follow The Good Racecraft Guide. Please become versed in both if you aren't already. Once that is complete, please follow the steps below to complete your entry into the league:
1. You start a conversation and add zer05ive, JLBowler, nmcp1, SAMHAIN85, llNovall & Akzl298 as participants.
The conversation title should be "Request To Join".
2. SNAIL Administrators will respond with specific instructions on what you need to accomplish to join the SNAIL [Spec] Racing.
3. Place the following links (URLs) in the favorites (or bookmarks) in your web browser for quick reference. Please make every effort to read and understand the following links. Over the years a great deal of time and effort has gone into creating this league and we would like nothing more than to have you but we ask that you take the time and effort to do your homework. 99.9% of any question you may have about SNAIL can be found in the posts below.
4. You drive fast and clean on Sunday 👍
Again, the original post has everything you need to know about what to expect on Sunday night and what you will need to have completed in order to be competitive. If you have any questions, please feel free to post your question on the thread.
During the week we run a number of different events, we encourage all SNAILs to join as many as possible.
Welcome to SNAIL
Nicktune
Premium
- 1,258
- T-R
- Nic-KL
Driving tips for the s2000 combo:
I tried so many things to make the car turn and I found something in the last 2 laps of that combo.The s2000 has some understeer, it's not awful but it's there.
If you drive on the rumble strip it makes the car rotate and it doesn't unsettle the car. Not just a touch and go... you need to drive on it. The car becomes neutral.
The first time I did this for an entire lap, it was good for 2:05.705. It felt like an effortless .300 gain.
I tried so many things to make the car turn and I found something in the last 2 laps of that combo.The s2000 has some understeer, it's not awful but it's there.
If you drive on the rumble strip it makes the car rotate and it doesn't unsettle the car. Not just a touch and go... you need to drive on it. The car becomes neutral.
The first time I did this for an entire lap, it was good for 2:05.705. It felt like an effortless .300 gain.
- 2,143
- Ocho Rios
- Marcus__Garvey
You've got another trick for understeer as well...do tell.
JLBowler
Premium
- 7,986
- California
- JLBowler
The drivers list and grid list are updated for this week's racing.
We are back to two divisions. 8 full time drivers in each.
@TexHill has been added to the list.
We are back to two divisions. 8 full time drivers in each.
@TexHill has been added to the list.
- 2,726
- Québec
- GTP_WorstDriver
Is there anyone that can host tonight for D1 ?
I can do it if you don’t mind a little delay while I do scores. I have a good stable hardwired connexion.
I can do it if you don’t mind a little delay while I do scores. I have a good stable hardwired connexion.
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- 4,255
- Fort Worth/Texas
- RacingChamp30
I can host for D2 if another doesn't.
- 1,390
- New Hampshire
- AKZL298
January 2024 season has been archived.
Dragonwhisky
Premium
- 6,878
- the land of green, hills, rocks & whiskey
- Dragonwhisky
Warmup room open. Both Divisions welcome!
Edit - flipping to combo 2 in 3 min.
Or not. @Chiochansan just showed up.
Edit - flipping to combo 2 in 3 min.
Or not. @Chiochansan just showed up.
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- 2,726
- Québec
- GTP_WorstDriver
Division 1 thread created. I will host, do scores and upload replays for tonight but next week it would be nice to have main roles and backups confirmed.
- 3,567
- London, ON
- A_Mindful_Place
Hey Snails, I won't be making it tonight. I'm feeling a bit under the weather. Have fun!!
- 4,255
- Fort Worth/Texas
- RacingChamp30
Anyone else having issues connecting to PSN, it shows i am getting a connection but the console is not getting a connection to PSN.
