◆ SNAIL [Spec] Racing - Join now to win a Digit Racing EDGE Masterclass enrollment!!Open 

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If you want to get on your division's good side early, get on track then move off to the side to retire each race. :P
Yeah, I couldn't even stay awake till it started. I didn't expect digging trenches around my place just to get to the street, and then helping my neighbor clear his driveway would put me out like that. It's definitely not how I wanted to start things here. I'll see you guys tonight at practice, and make sure I get myself there for the serious racing on Sunday.
 
Oh, the swear filter, my favourite GT feature. If I had a penny for every time I typed a long message and saw ******* in the text box because of some stupid thing like "associated"...
I bought a mic after a particularly frustrating night with some Brazilian friends, where about 85% of all messages were vetoed.
lol nah I was actually skirting around the gt filter, I'm kind of known to do it.
 
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The Time Trial Events for the new Combos are LIVE

Also...the new Poll is up...

Please vote for your selection for the car to run the Feb 2016 Nurburgring Time Trial

You get a single vote and cannot change your vote, but you get 3 choices...choose wisely.

Please do not share poll standings with people who have not yet voted.

Only SNAIL members can vote, others will be disqualified.
 
Dear snails,
I'm sorry to say that i will not be able to participate in sunday night racing for the time being :(,i joined snail end of last year as i was of work with a broken foot ,two op's later ! i'm now able to get back to work and last friday i started a new job,so that has put an end to my staying up early morning(2am)to race!
I have had a great time here and enjoyed the racing ,i have also made a couple of buddys too :)
shout out to @CoachMK21 @Alex ONeill @Raw10_2u @Jaguara @pubason @STEAMER62 @Rob Brown
thanks to d6 for making me welcome and to d5 :cheers:


If no one has any objections i would like to take part in the tt's as and when i can ? odd sunday nights too when im not working ?
would also like to give a big thanx to all the snails that make it happen...:gtpflag:

thanks all
Richroo
 
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Everytime I take a drive in PCars it makes me drool for GT7 on a comparable system.
First time I played it, I couldn't believe my ears. The sound in that game is amazing.
Even if I can't drive for crap in the controller, I still enjoy it tremendously.
 
Even if I can't drive for crap in the controller, I still enjoy it tremendously.

No doubt it's significantly more difficult than GT6. When I first started playing I was all over the place. The inputs need to be sooo minute... fortunately the fruits of labor are begining to ripen. I'm getting better, but it's still quite a challenge. Keep with it, you'll get better. 👍
 
Dear snails,
I'm sorry to say that i will not be able to participate in sunday night racing for the time being :(,i joined snail end of last year as i was of work with a broken foot ,two op's later ! i'm now able to get back to work and last friday i started a new job,so that has put an end to my staying up early morning(2am)to race!
I have had a great time here and enjoyed the racing ,i have also made a couple of buddys too :)
shout out to @CoachMK21 @Alex ONeill @Raw10_2u @Jaguara @pubason @STEAMER62 @Rob Brown
thanks to d6 for making me welcome and to d5 :cheers:


If no one has any objections i would like to take part in the tt's as and when i can ? odd sunday nights too when im not working ?
would also like to give a big thanx to all the snails that make it happen...:gtpflag:

thanks all
Richroo

Good luck to you and it was lots of racing against you on the track. Always fun racing in Snail.
 
Yeah, I couldn't even stay awake till it started. I didn't expect digging trenches around my place just to get to the street, and then helping my neighbor clear his driveway would put me out like that. It's definitely not how I wanted to start things here. I'll see you guys tonight at practice, and make sure I get myself there for the serious racing on Sunday.
See ya there!
 
No doubt it's significantly more difficult than GT6. When I first started playing I was all over the place. The inputs need to be sooo minute... fortunately the fruits of labor are begining to ripen. I'm getting better, but it's still quite a challenge. Keep with it, you'll get better. 👍
I'm getting a compatible wheel soon, so I'm guessing it will become less difficult.
 
Once Again; it was such fun racing with my OLD! :crazy: Friends again and some new racer's.
Thanks for having me as well as the banter, just like old times. now here is some advice that may or may not help but keep in mind;
My G-27 finally died and I brought out the Driving Force, while trying to stretch the brake springs for better pressure!
(there are two) I broke the Black one so I'm running with only 1 brake spring!
and this is how;


Last night I was rear ended and saw so many braking miss-haps and thought to my self, does everyone know about brake calibration?

For those of you that might not know this, you can calibrate your brakes!

How many times have you got in a room and gone straight out of the pits and the brakes just weren't the same as last time?

Well the first time you touch the brake it starts the calibration.
The second time you touch the brake it sets the minimum amount of pressure.
The third time you touch the brake will set the maximum amount of pressure. (second time MUST BE FULL)

so if you get on track and speed into the first turn today, faster then yesterday and apply more brake to slow down, well that's your new min. and the next time you apply the brake will be your max.

Jumping in this way, your brakes will be always different!

I have and many faster racers than I have done this simple trick, That's gotta say something!

1) you get on track and DON'T touch the brake, use the e-brake to stop the car, now relax, slow your breathing.
2) Very quickly, and I mean VERY quickly hit the brake to full and off, like a flick of the wrist fast! you'll see the brake indicator flash, (you want that sudden flash of full red)
3) Now gently and slowly apply the brake until you see the brake indicator "the less is best" (it will be your min.) just the smallest of red and LET OFF!
2) Now apply the brake as far as you can and let off.

Your brakes are now calibrated!
Try now full brake and it goes only as high as you just set it/them!
(do this, make it a habit and Your brakes will be the same everyday and every time .........)

Try it you'll like it! :cheers:
 
Once Again; it was such fun racing with my OLD! :crazy: Friends again and some new racer's.
Thanks for having me as well as the banter, just like old times. now here is some advice that may or may not help but keep in mind;
My G-27 finally died and I brought out the Driving Force, while trying to stretch the brake springs for better pressure!
(there are two) I broke the Black one so I'm running with only 1 brake spring!
and this is how;


Last night I was rear ended and saw so many braking miss-haps and thought to my self, does everyone know about brake calibration?

For those of you that might not know this, you can calibrate your brakes!

How many times have you got in a room and gone straight out of the pits and the brakes just weren't the same as last time?

Well the first time you touch the brake it starts the calibration.
The second time you touch the brake it sets the minimum amount of pressure.
The third time you touch the brake will set the maximum amount of pressure. (second time MUST BE FULL)

so if you get on track and speed into the first turn today, faster then yesterday and apply more brake to slow down, well that's your new min. and the next time you apply the brake will be your max.

Jumping in this way, your brakes will be always different!

I have and many faster racers than I have done this simple trick, That's gotta say something!

1) you get on track and DON'T touch the brake, use the e-brake to stop the car, now relax, slow your breathing.
2) Very quickly, and I mean VERY quickly hit the brake to full and off, like a flick of the wrist fast! you'll see the brake indicator flash, (you want that sudden flash of full red)
3) Now gently and slowly apply the brake until you see the brake indicator "the less is best" (it will be your min.) just the smallest of red and LET OFF!
2) Now apply the brake as far as you can and let off.

Your brakes are now calibrated!
Try now full brake and it goes only as high as you just set it/them!
(do this, make it a habit and Your brakes will be the same everyday and every time .........)

Try it you'll like it! :cheers:


You're only partially correct there. The way the game reads pedal input is that it calibrates a maximum input every time the game is started. This means that all you have to do to calibrate the brake pedal is to depress it all the way down once you are on track. It only has to be done one time while on track each time the game is started. The minimum level of input is zero and as long as the maximum input is set to full pedal travel, the maximum range will be present.
 
You're only partially correct there. The way the game reads pedal input is that it calibrates a maximum input every time the game is started. This means that all you have to do to calibrate the brake pedal is to depress it all the way down once you are on track. It only has to be done one time while on track each time the game is started. The minimum level of input is zero and as long as the maximum input is set to full pedal travel, the maximum range will be present.

Does this work with all wheels Thrustmaster as well?
 
I thought I would post an update on the adapter to use my G27 on the PS4. The original plan was to do a set up using a Raspberry PI, this is still going to happen, but it ended up being more than my limited electronics experience could handle. I have an electronics guru buddy working on it, but his busy schedule means a few more weeks before he can finish it up. The gimx creator will tell you the PI is still "experimental".
In the meantime, my buddy gave me a small dedicated laptop to go the PC route, which is the same as what @nmcp1 did. Nuno posted a sketch of the set up so I thought I would post actual pictures of it so you can see what the bits look like for real.
We had some problems with the Teensy chip, we ordered two from another source (direct from china) but they were defective and we sent them back. We ended up ordering from the supplier in Oregon (chips are still from China) and they worked right away. Like Nuno said, there were a couple of key things missing in the instructions but he got them figured out, luckily for me he went through this first, lol.
So I think between the two of us, and I believe a couple of others might be trying this, we can offer advice or help to anyone else who wants to do it. It will cost about $30, as long as you have a laptop or PC to use. The Raspberry Pi route looks like it will cost in the $60 to $80 range. I figured I just saved myself $470 and I can give the you know what to Logitech!
And yes, it all works great!
Link to Gimx http://gimx.fr/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page

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Hey Aero,

I've ordered all of the parts for the build except for the box. I really like the clear box you have used for your build, do you happen to have the info on it so i can order one?
 
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The wheel actually calibrates the pedals on the fly. If you only press it half way the first time, the pedals may show half is a full throw but the next time you press the pedal all the way down the wheel calibrates that as the full throw. There is actually no need to calibrate anything with the Logitech pedals. Plug and play.

I played with this once as I had a brake pedal that flickered at the end. I had heard of what you guys mention here about this calibration. I thought if I calibrate it short of a full throw a may be able to lose the flick. It didn't work because I soon as I'd press it all the way it makes that the full throw. Only thing I can see is if you only pressed it half way first time it may feel slightly off going into the first turn IF you jumped straight into a race. Most people quite quickly press the pedals to the floor in a race/warm up/sananagens and as soon as that happens that's the full throw until the wheel is turned off. You will never have a night of races where the pedals aren't calibrated correctly
 
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Hey Aero,

I've ordered all of the parts for the build except for the box. I really like the clear box you have used for your build, do you happen to have the info on it so i can order one?

Sorry Alex, can't help you there. My buddy that is working on the PI version for me had a couple kicking around so he gave me one. He doesn't remember where he got it. I liked the idea that the top opened easily in case of heat, but that has not been an issue at all.
Most specialty computer supply stores have small boxes of various shapes and sizes.
 
Sorry Alex, can't help you there. My buddy that is working on the PI version for me had a couple kicking around so he gave me one. He doesn't remember where he got it. I liked the idea that the top opened easily in case of heat, but that has not been an issue at all.
Most specialty computer supply stores have small boxes of various shapes and sizes.

OK, thank you Aero. I'll let you know how mine turns out. I'm hoping it all goes smoothly. Thank you for posting up yours it really got me motivated to make one!
 
The wheel actually calibrates the pedals on the fly. If you only press it half way the first time, the pedals may show half is a full throw but the next time you press the pedal all the way down the wheel calibrates that as the full throw. There is actually no need to calibrate anything with the Logitech pedals. Plug and play.

I played with this once as I had a brake pedal that flickered at the end. I had heard of what you guys mention here about this calibration. I thought if I calibrate it short of a full throw a may be able to lose the flick. It didn't work because I soon as I'd press it all the way it makes that the full throw. Only thing I can see is if you only pressed it half way first time it may feel slightly off going into the first turn IF you jumped straight into a race. Most people quite quickly press the pedals to the floor in a race/warm up/sananagens and as soon as that happens that's the full throw until the wheel is turned off. You will never have a night of races where the pedals aren't calibrated correctly

Correct as well. My point above was merely that if you want your pedal to be consistent, you just have to press the pedal all the way down once when you start up. This will give you maximum range as the pedal will be using the entire travel as it's range instead of half of it's range. The wheel software is what determines how defined the movements of the pedal will be. I'm probably going to get the numbers wrong as I'm going off memory but I think the G27 wheel base gives the pedals 8 bits for response compared to the T300 which gives the pedals 10 bits. This means that the T300 will make your pedals more responsive than the G27 or G29 for that matter. Since switching to the T300 with G27 pedals, I have noticed a difference between the two.

Whoever asked if this worked with Thrustmaster products, this is the way the GT6 works so I don't see why it wouldn't work the same with Thrustmaster pedals.
 
Skip to 3:55 and judge for yourself. The track surface looks realistic, but there are no hard barriers at the entrance or exit. Would be a little dangerous in real life with hard barriers......
I'm catching up and watching the qualifying. From what I can tell barriers aside the first chicane to the bus stop seems deeper in real life than the game, the straight(ish) part is longer in game, and the exit seems deeper as well same as the first.
 
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