- 209
- (Quebec)Canada
- Hacki_Roku
Hi all,
I create this thread for who wants to share your Sim Wheel modifications with us and if you want to write a little review or make a complete ''how to'' its up to you, or simply share with us something awesome youve seen on net.
The main goal of all this is give some advice and some tips for people looking foward to do same thing. Ive got many mod project in progress, and getting all information on internet is not easy at all cause such a low amounts of wheel users mod it, and i suppose for the same reason i am, the lack of info and tips about it online, so i decide to to regroup all my and your mod here for a better accessibility for all the community of GTP.
Ill go first with a little list of mod ive done and some in progress on my Logitech G25 Racing Wheel.
mod#001 - Change Shift Knob (mecanic) (DONE)
mod#002 - Add a real standard car Ebrake (mecanic+electric) (DONE)
mod#003 - G25 wheel change for a MOMO (enginering) (In Progress)
mod#004 - Add a Rally/Drift Ebrake with G25 Brake pedals (mecanic+electric+enginering) (In Progress)
mod#005 - Invert and customize position of G25 pedals kit (mecanic)
[Mod#001] - Shift knob (mecanic) (DONE)
For sure the easiest mod you can perform on your G25. Only one srew under the gear cap hold the stock G25 knob, after that, any real car shift knob with 3 allen screw holding system will fit on it. Mine is a Dojo Performance Carbon shifter, (see on mod#002)more heavier, bigger too, it make shifting more smooth but its more a mod for the overall looking of your G25 than other mod will talk about later. A little video i found on youtube about ''How to'' do it
[Mod#002] - Add a real standard car Ebrake (mecanic+electric) (DONE)
First of all, i have to say that im not good enough in english to explain all this so ive take the google transalator to do it, so if you see some words your not sure about it or something you simply dont understand, feel free to contact me, its gonna be a pleasure to help you, thats the main goal of all this so....
Materials
- Handbrake (easily found for cheap in a scrap yard)
- Limit switch (normally closed (inside connection)) (usually comes with the hand brake)
- Spring (for the simulation of the car cables)
- Threaded connection size twisted # 22 (very important that either twisted)
- Terminal males and females
- Pewter
- Electrical Tape
- Screw
Principals tools
- Drill
- Saw (manual and / or electric)
- Jig saw or small hand saw
- Soldering Iron
- Screwdrivers
- Precision Screwdrivers
- Allen key
The Approach
Firstly what you want to do is the electrical connections (2), before going on with the rest of the projet, because I must confess that there is some risk, we talk to weld to an electronic circuit. Some experience is required, otherwise if you have an old phone or any electronics things, it could help you practice before making the connection on the shifter of the G25.
So once you're ready, start by disassembling the shifter of the G25
Step # 01 - Uninstall bindings
Step # 02 - You will see at the back of the shifter a series of screws attaching the two part of the whole box, remove all
Step # 03 - Remove the cap on top of the knob which gives you access to uninstall it, remove it
Step # 04 - Remove the 6 allen screws around the shift lever to remove the leather over
Step # 05 - You now have access to another set of screws, remove them all
Now you are ready to remove the cover that give you acces to the electronic chart. Note that I prefer to weld in place instead of disconnecting the connections behind (3), ive got a foot welders to do it, so ive take the safe way to do it.
Now if you look closely the next two photos you will see where to welds. To explain simply, the path from the bottom of the electronic card (left in photo) is your main power supplying the 4 buttons on the top of the shifter, the X, O, Triangle and square. What we want is to add in parallel to the''O''button and the main path of our current limit switch for the handbrake, then you see the small path leading from the''O''button and going in the center right of the map (bottom in photo) that it is the second we want welded.
Welding Procedure
First you will see that there is a thin plastic film over your electronics. With a precision screwdriver flat head, gently scrach surface path to reveal like shown on the photo about 1 centimeter of the electrcal path, once the copper is visible assure you that it is clean and without dust. now you must prepare your wires, you will understand why the twisted type cables is use instead of the solid type, cut the length desired, unsheathe about 1 centimeter and twist it, it is important to tinned your wires itselft before welding it to the card, it will help a lot of welding, and make it even stronger.
Tinned
Take your wires and after a few seconds the heat with your soldering iron, then aplique the tin, but not directly to iron but on the thread itself, if it is warm enough, the tin is a cross repend full thread and uniformly to make a good ''hot'' weld. The same technique will be used to weld on the electronic card.
Final welding
Place your iron on the path of copper discovered making sure to have your wire rdy in the other, wait a few seconds and remove the iron, then place your wire at the location where you heat and place your iron over it, wait a few seconds before puting a little tin over the wire and the connection, again if you have heat it enough like the wire in the tinned part, the tin will go uniformly to both the wire and the card path. Then a simple piece of tape to avoid the displacement of the wire, which could cause a break of your welding with the constant vibration made by frequent changes of speed. The final part of the tricky part of the Mod, ou have to drill a hole to exit the wires at the desired location.
Now as far as the mechanism which activates your limit switch, the possibilities are endless, it really depends on you, you can use a handbrake standrad car, or make more a rally / drift style handbrake, or simply do a custom one to your liking. For my part, I opt for the look and feeling of a handbrake of a standard car, here are some pictures of the assembly to give you some ideas
[Mod#003] - G25 wheel change for a MOMO (enginering) (In Progress)
This Modification is probably the most ''hardcore mod'' you can perform on your G25. First thing you wanna know is what kind of wheel will fit on your G25.... no one, reason is, the allen bolt pattern is not the same as real racing wheel, so the simple way to do it is buying a wheel who do not have hole already drill on it, but that kind of wheel are pretty normal and ugly compare to the stock G25, instead, if your a big fan of F1 or any kind of formula cup, you want to check the Momo Mod 12C, best easy wheel to install on a G25. Ive already seen this mod, and its looks fantastic. But heres a IMPORTANT info you gotta keep in mind, dont install a wheel more heavier than the G25, this will surely cause the FFB to lose his force and broke over a long period, i dont have the exact wight of the G25 wheel, but the Racing wheel i bought to replace it weight 2,55 lbs, and i cant tell the difference between each other, so keep your wheel under 2,5 lbs and it would be allright.
Now the second important thing you wanna know is, G25 6 allen bolt diameter is 1,97 inches, and all racing wheel on market got a 6 allen bolt diameter of 2,75 inches, so thats why you need little of enginering. you will need this special part that we can call a ''G25 Adapter'', a special thanks to Jungletouff from GTC to provinding his own design of a perfect ''G25 adapter''
Mine is currently in progress in my local MachineShop with my aluminium Ebrake stick too. Stay tuned for a ''photo update'' here
Now some advices before taking off your G25 wheels. The important thing is to make sure when you have unsrew the 6 allen bolt to not release the wheel, is still four tinny wire who connect the 2 bottom wheel to an electronic chart inside the center of the wheel. The only tips i can give you here is to got an extra pair of hand to hold the wheel when you unplug gently these wire from the chart, you can do it without unsrew the electronic chart from the G25, but if you dont feel comfortable with it, simply unsrew the single screw in the center and you will see another plug behing going in the G25 itself, this extra lenght of wire will give you enough space to unplug those wire from the wheel, heres some photo ive take of mine.
Ive made a litte video of me drifting in GT5P to show how the wheel act and how my cockpit is build right now versus when all my modifications will be done, especially the wheel, read video description for more info.
Thats the end of Mod#003 part 1. Im looking foward to get my piece and my brand new G25 to complete mod#003 and mod#004, stay tuned and again, share with us your experience.
I create this thread for who wants to share your Sim Wheel modifications with us and if you want to write a little review or make a complete ''how to'' its up to you, or simply share with us something awesome youve seen on net.
The main goal of all this is give some advice and some tips for people looking foward to do same thing. Ive got many mod project in progress, and getting all information on internet is not easy at all cause such a low amounts of wheel users mod it, and i suppose for the same reason i am, the lack of info and tips about it online, so i decide to to regroup all my and your mod here for a better accessibility for all the community of GTP.
Ill go first with a little list of mod ive done and some in progress on my Logitech G25 Racing Wheel.
mod#001 - Change Shift Knob (mecanic) (DONE)
mod#002 - Add a real standard car Ebrake (mecanic+electric) (DONE)
mod#003 - G25 wheel change for a MOMO (enginering) (In Progress)
mod#004 - Add a Rally/Drift Ebrake with G25 Brake pedals (mecanic+electric+enginering) (In Progress)
mod#005 - Invert and customize position of G25 pedals kit (mecanic)
[Mod#001] - Shift knob (mecanic) (DONE)
For sure the easiest mod you can perform on your G25. Only one srew under the gear cap hold the stock G25 knob, after that, any real car shift knob with 3 allen screw holding system will fit on it. Mine is a Dojo Performance Carbon shifter, (see on mod#002)more heavier, bigger too, it make shifting more smooth but its more a mod for the overall looking of your G25 than other mod will talk about later. A little video i found on youtube about ''How to'' do it
[Mod#002] - Add a real standard car Ebrake (mecanic+electric) (DONE)
First of all, i have to say that im not good enough in english to explain all this so ive take the google transalator to do it, so if you see some words your not sure about it or something you simply dont understand, feel free to contact me, its gonna be a pleasure to help you, thats the main goal of all this so....
Materials
- Handbrake (easily found for cheap in a scrap yard)
- Limit switch (normally closed (inside connection)) (usually comes with the hand brake)
- Spring (for the simulation of the car cables)
- Threaded connection size twisted # 22 (very important that either twisted)
- Terminal males and females
- Pewter
- Electrical Tape
- Screw
Principals tools
- Drill
- Saw (manual and / or electric)
- Jig saw or small hand saw
- Soldering Iron
- Screwdrivers
- Precision Screwdrivers
- Allen key
The Approach
Firstly what you want to do is the electrical connections (2), before going on with the rest of the projet, because I must confess that there is some risk, we talk to weld to an electronic circuit. Some experience is required, otherwise if you have an old phone or any electronics things, it could help you practice before making the connection on the shifter of the G25.
So once you're ready, start by disassembling the shifter of the G25
Step # 01 - Uninstall bindings
Step # 02 - You will see at the back of the shifter a series of screws attaching the two part of the whole box, remove all
Step # 03 - Remove the cap on top of the knob which gives you access to uninstall it, remove it
Step # 04 - Remove the 6 allen screws around the shift lever to remove the leather over
Step # 05 - You now have access to another set of screws, remove them all
Now you are ready to remove the cover that give you acces to the electronic chart. Note that I prefer to weld in place instead of disconnecting the connections behind (3), ive got a foot welders to do it, so ive take the safe way to do it.
Now if you look closely the next two photos you will see where to welds. To explain simply, the path from the bottom of the electronic card (left in photo) is your main power supplying the 4 buttons on the top of the shifter, the X, O, Triangle and square. What we want is to add in parallel to the''O''button and the main path of our current limit switch for the handbrake, then you see the small path leading from the''O''button and going in the center right of the map (bottom in photo) that it is the second we want welded.
Welding Procedure
First you will see that there is a thin plastic film over your electronics. With a precision screwdriver flat head, gently scrach surface path to reveal like shown on the photo about 1 centimeter of the electrcal path, once the copper is visible assure you that it is clean and without dust. now you must prepare your wires, you will understand why the twisted type cables is use instead of the solid type, cut the length desired, unsheathe about 1 centimeter and twist it, it is important to tinned your wires itselft before welding it to the card, it will help a lot of welding, and make it even stronger.
Tinned
Take your wires and after a few seconds the heat with your soldering iron, then aplique the tin, but not directly to iron but on the thread itself, if it is warm enough, the tin is a cross repend full thread and uniformly to make a good ''hot'' weld. The same technique will be used to weld on the electronic card.
Final welding
Place your iron on the path of copper discovered making sure to have your wire rdy in the other, wait a few seconds and remove the iron, then place your wire at the location where you heat and place your iron over it, wait a few seconds before puting a little tin over the wire and the connection, again if you have heat it enough like the wire in the tinned part, the tin will go uniformly to both the wire and the card path. Then a simple piece of tape to avoid the displacement of the wire, which could cause a break of your welding with the constant vibration made by frequent changes of speed. The final part of the tricky part of the Mod, ou have to drill a hole to exit the wires at the desired location.
Now as far as the mechanism which activates your limit switch, the possibilities are endless, it really depends on you, you can use a handbrake standrad car, or make more a rally / drift style handbrake, or simply do a custom one to your liking. For my part, I opt for the look and feeling of a handbrake of a standard car, here are some pictures of the assembly to give you some ideas
[Mod#003] - G25 wheel change for a MOMO (enginering) (In Progress)
This Modification is probably the most ''hardcore mod'' you can perform on your G25. First thing you wanna know is what kind of wheel will fit on your G25.... no one, reason is, the allen bolt pattern is not the same as real racing wheel, so the simple way to do it is buying a wheel who do not have hole already drill on it, but that kind of wheel are pretty normal and ugly compare to the stock G25, instead, if your a big fan of F1 or any kind of formula cup, you want to check the Momo Mod 12C, best easy wheel to install on a G25. Ive already seen this mod, and its looks fantastic. But heres a IMPORTANT info you gotta keep in mind, dont install a wheel more heavier than the G25, this will surely cause the FFB to lose his force and broke over a long period, i dont have the exact wight of the G25 wheel, but the Racing wheel i bought to replace it weight 2,55 lbs, and i cant tell the difference between each other, so keep your wheel under 2,5 lbs and it would be allright.
Now the second important thing you wanna know is, G25 6 allen bolt diameter is 1,97 inches, and all racing wheel on market got a 6 allen bolt diameter of 2,75 inches, so thats why you need little of enginering. you will need this special part that we can call a ''G25 Adapter'', a special thanks to Jungletouff from GTC to provinding his own design of a perfect ''G25 adapter''
Mine is currently in progress in my local MachineShop with my aluminium Ebrake stick too. Stay tuned for a ''photo update'' here
Now some advices before taking off your G25 wheels. The important thing is to make sure when you have unsrew the 6 allen bolt to not release the wheel, is still four tinny wire who connect the 2 bottom wheel to an electronic chart inside the center of the wheel. The only tips i can give you here is to got an extra pair of hand to hold the wheel when you unplug gently these wire from the chart, you can do it without unsrew the electronic chart from the G25, but if you dont feel comfortable with it, simply unsrew the single screw in the center and you will see another plug behing going in the G25 itself, this extra lenght of wire will give you enough space to unplug those wire from the wheel, heres some photo ive take of mine.
Ive made a litte video of me drifting in GT5P to show how the wheel act and how my cockpit is build right now versus when all my modifications will be done, especially the wheel, read video description for more info.
Thats the end of Mod#003 part 1. Im looking foward to get my piece and my brand new G25 to complete mod#003 and mod#004, stay tuned and again, share with us your experience.
