2006 TSX power seat wiring pinout?

[miahallen]

Hey guys & gals, how is everyone doing? I'm working on a project for my hobby (sim racing), where I am trying to put a powered seat from a 2004 Acura TSX onto my racing rig.

If you'd like to know more about my rig, I posted a build log here.

Anyhow, This is the new seat I picked up:



And here is a video going over my current progress. If you wouldn't mind watching the video and then providing any suggestions, it would be most appreciated. Thanks

 

[sesselpupser]

Personally I think you'd be better off bypassing that logic board completely, trying to reverse engineer it without any reference is... Well, difficult, as you probably know!

Long story short: you've got the switches, you've got the motors, the best thing to do now is to interface them directly instead of through an unknown logic board. Work out exactly how the switches are wired, use the relays' current ratings as a clue of the sort of current you need to drive the motors (you can safely overshoot the current rating, so long as there are no short circuits, but under-supplying current can damage the power supply), then (after prototyping it with LEDs instead of relays) make a board that directly connects the switches to the relays.

My guess is some of those unknown connections are CAN bus data lines, and if that's right then you'll pretty much have to bypass it unless you can get access to the actual car and a bus sniffer that can capture the data that's being set to the seat. Fortunately this is a fairly straightforward board to bypass... Famous last words.

 

[miahallen]

That is my backup plan...but using 3rd party relays instead on the ones on the board. I'm thinking of trying to find a TSX I can probe...but even then, if you're right about the CAN bus data...I'm still stuck huh? Humm....

 

[sesselpupser]

@miahallen Yeah, I don't know why a seat would need to be part of the CAN but it seems to be the done thing these days so I'm guessing that's why the seat doesn't work. Even without that red stuff covering the board it would be tricky to reverse engineer on your own so I'd just replace it entirely.

 

[miahallen]

Thanks for the suggestion. I took apart the side of the seat and pulled out the PCB with the switches on it. They are DPDT switches but don't seem to be a standard configuration. But I'm thinking that if they can take the current, maybe I can just use them. I don't know, but I think I'll give it a shot.

If that doesn't work, maybe I'll just get some high current DPDT switches to control the motors directly.

 

[Rallywagon]

Not in a position to listen to the audio (in a Unix/Linux training class ATM) however, I think you may be over complicating things. Since the control board is already a part of the seat, it should only require power to go to it to operate. I am guessing that one of the two pin plugs should be the +12v and ground to power the seat position PCB and motors. Another two wired plug will be for a pressure sensor in the seat, to know that A, someone is in the seat, and B, if they weigh enough for an air bag. This should also be safety switch of sorts for the seat heater, which should have its own power supply as well. One more wire, or plug will be for the seatbelt switch. The best bet though would be to try and source a factory service manual or find a good forum (its a honda, should be easy) and ask some people there.

Ok, after giving the middle pics (bottom of seat, PCB on bottom, plugs above) I would fathom the left grey plug (the one the yellow plug is touching) is where you will find the power wires. However, which are the pwoer and what do the others do is beyond me. best way is to find a car and test the wires on the other side of the plug to find which is getting power.

Not this helps specifically, but google and bing come up with lots and lots of wiring diagrams.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...al scans/DPMSdriverseatdiagmirrorpg22-335.jpg

Edit, forget that link, this one is much better. http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=757435

 

[miahallen]

Thanks for all the help guys, but it turns out I was able to bypass the control board and wire my amp directly to the DPDT switch PCB in the side of the seat...

I started by probing all the contacts with the switches in all positions...

I don't have a clue how it worked from the factory, but when I wired an additional two ground wires to this board (into pins which were unused) I was able to get full functionality.

After getting that figured out I just needed to mount the new seat and wire it up to my rig.

Check my build log here for the final result.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...simvibe-racing-rig.271002/page-3#post-8507004