A Few DIY Button Box Questions

[Infinital-NG]

Have this gamepad that I want to make into a button box.

Have a question about the L3/R3 buttons...when you actually push them down. I want to try and utilize those buttons as well. I had thought about trying to use the analog sticks, but cannot think of a way to extend them. Otherwise the board would be less than 1/2 inch from the top of the box, and logistically it's too hard to map buttons around that. Maybe I'll revisit that idea.

Anyway,

The parts circled in yellow seem to be the 'buttons' for the L3 and R3. I see what looks like 4 contacts (crudely drawn red lines) surrounding that button. Would it be safe to say that some combo of those 4 contacts would allow me to use those buttons. Using a multi-meter I should be able to determine which contacts control that switch, correct?


That was the more in-depth question.

Next, rotary encoders take up 3 buttons (left turn, right turn, & press) correct? I don't plan to use but just curious.


Lastly,

Anyone have an idea to be able to extend those analog sticks out some? I realize that the longer I make the stick the bigger circumference I need to allow movement, but if it's possible I'd like to try.

Thanks

 

[LogiForce]

Honestly if you want to do stuff like this and have it PS3 compatible I would go grab an Arduino Mega together with the MegaJoy (form UnoJoy... Google it) source code, add the buttons, potmeters, hall sensors, rotary switches, rotary encoders... whatever to it.

I think modding an old gamepad would just become too messy. Plus rotary encoders and switches work differently from normal buttons. At which point you need to write some code yourself to support them.

So if you just stick to buttons and potmeters you should be fine, but anything more will be a waste of a gamepad in my opinion.
Though this is just my advice. I am sure others will think differently, and maybe are able to give you better advice for what you want to do. Especially since I am still learning about electronics myself at the moment (in my spare time).

 

[HoiHman]

I have tried this too using an old wireless logitech gamepad.

I finally gave up on it though because the soldering is too complicated and the gamepad did not fit well in my buttonbox design. So i ordered a DSD32 board.

Good luck, looking forward to see the final result

 

[sesselpupser]

Would it be safe to say that some combo of those 4 contacts would allow me to use those buttons. Using a multi-meter I should be able to determine which contacts control that switch, correct?

It would be safe indeed, tactile switches like that have four contacts but are (most often) single pole single throw switches, meaning there's only one actual set of contacts inside the switch. That means the four contacts are two pairs that connect to the same thing, but I can't remember which ones match, but if you use a multimeter you'll spot it very easily.

Next, rotary encoders take up 3 buttons (left turn, right turn, & press) correct? I don't plan to use but just curious.

Not exactly, rotary encoders themselves output something called 'grey code' which has to be decoded into useful signals either with a small circuit or a microcontroller like an Arduino. Google 'rotary encoder decoder' and you should find schematics that might explain it a bit better, or find a rotary encoder's datasheet if you want to know more about how they actually work. But once you've got it decoded, yes, the signals would be left turn, right turn and push (if it has a button, anyway).

Anyone have an idea to be able to extend those analog sticks out some?

The best idea would be to remove those sticks and either replace them or move them. You could digitise them with an 8-way hat switch and some resistors, replace them with linear pots (which would really be more useful for a PC flight sim trimmer), or if you were feeling really fancy you could work out some sort of DIY head tracking using a... Oh, what are the Sixaxis motion sensors called again? Gyrometers? Anyway, one of them and an Arduino. Just a thought, but otherwise the best thing to do is move the stick rather than extend the shank on it, in my opinion.

 

[Infinital-NG]

Thanks for the replies.

I hadn't planned on doing rotary encoders, but since I was going to make the post about the L3/R3 buttons, I might as well ask.

I got the gamepad from a Goodwill for $5, and so was going to try and use it if possible.

Soldering is not a big deal for me, and if I could use the existing pad I will.

Really I'm on the fence about what all I want to do with it.

One thing I'm going to include in the box is a powered USB hub. So I can have one USB connection to the computer and everything else can be going to the box. Cleaner setup as I have to break the wheel down when I'm done playing.

Also going to add a USB Light into the mix as generally I play at night and my desk lamp is too bright and I just want a little light to see with.

I have lots of ideas on where to take the button box, just need to make a firm decision.

 

[sesselpupser]

Are you using it for GT5, general PS3 use or PC? Whichever it is, soldering up an existing pad is a great way to save money, so don't be put off. A Cthulhu or similar is a good compromise but with a PS3 pad you have the analogue buttons and such.

 

[Infinital-NG]

PC mainly, haven't played GT5 in a while, seems like PD has lost the desire to do anything else with it. Which I understand with GT6 coming sometime.

Simraceway for now, probably get back into iracing at some point, really looking forward to trying project cars when it comes out.

I think i'm just going to try and use one analog instead of going for both. Using one I think is more realistic (who needs to analog buttons on a button box?) and is easier to plan out just using one.

I will probably mount the board to the cover to the far left or right and gives me more room in the box to wire the other buttons.