About the Ferrari F40

[HuskyGT]

So after playing GT5 in its 1.00 version since release date, I finally updated my game a few days ago. I have encountered GT5 2.05 to be a whole new experience for me.

Many of the cars that were flawed since release, have been miraculously fixed to my surprise and joy.

I decided to buy a F40 since I love that car, just to see if the horrible snap oversteer while braking was somehow fixed, but unfortunately it is behaving the same.

Here's the problem. Because of my obsession with realism, I like to deactivate ABS in cars that I'm sure they don't have it in real life, such as TVR's, many old models and race cars. The F40 being one of these. Problem is that this car is impossible to drive without ABS, and it really annoys me that I have to turn it on just to go in a straight line. I know the car is old and it won't perform as close as many modern sports cars, but it should have an overall good driveability.

So anyone have an idea how to make this car more drivable? It's hard to believe that this is how an F40 would perform. I have the 512BB with no ABS and Sports Mediums and have no problem whatsoever even if it's an older car with a big mid mounted "Boxer" 12 cylinder engine, skinny tires and not being really as high performance oriented as the F40.

I tried everything, even setting the brake strength to 0, and adjusting the ballast all the way to front to induce a bit of understeer. But no luck...

I checked for other threads, but only found old ones with people complaining about how bad it performs. I've been checking for two days now but I found no answer.

 

[DJones]

Ah the f40, it can be driven by many, but raced by few.

It's just one of those cars you have to work with. I race mine with a 3/2 brake bias and it works great, but only with lots and lots and lots and lots of praaaaaaaaactice.

Also, I have to ask, ds3 or wheel user?

Having a wheel helps a lot

May you race and (untill you tame it) rage on my friend. The f40 effects even the best of us.

Edit: Well spank my bottom and call me charlie isn't this exciting. I meant driven not given... Fixed.

 

[HuskyGT]

Ah the f40, it can be given by many, but raced by few.

It's just one of those cars you have to work with. I race mine with a 3/2 brake bias and it works great, but only with lots and lots and lots and lots of praaaaaaaaactice.

Also, I have to ask, ds3 or wheel user?

Having a wheel helps a lot

May you race and (untill you tame it) rage on my friend. The f40 effects even the best of us.

DS3. But I'm one of those who can dose the exact amount of gas/braking/steering since I use both sticks. Been doing it like that since GT1, and I have no problems with other cars. I haven't tried going higher than 2 with the brake bias. maybe adding more power to the front wheels will lock them a bit and cancel the oversteer. I'll try the 3/2.

 

[MoLiEG]

How on Earth did you survive that much with 1.00?!?!

The game was very poor back then compared to nowadays...

 

[DJones]

DS3. But I'm one of those who can dose the exact amount of gas/braking/steering since I use both sticks

For the win! It's difficult to use my wheel day to day so untill the weekend rolls around (pun intended) I'm using the sticks.

Also the 3/2 works great, but if it's still too touchy try 2/1. I think that's what I started on, but changed it after I got a little more used to it. 3/2 is still touchy at low speed, but after you get up around 100mph you can still lock up the brakes, but you have to try for it.
Have fun Sr. Husky

 

[MOTORTRENDmitch]

Not to be an annoying troll, but I do believe this update as 2.05 rather then 4.05, probably just a typo 👍

Now to the topic, I too hate the Over steer the F40 is compromised with in GT5.. I love the car, but in the game is just isn't good. It's a shame..

 

[shmogt]

Hahaha just upgraded now. Sounds so funny. Why did you wait so long anyway? It's been like over a year.

For your question about brakes just ease on them than pump the brakes. That's how you drive old cars with no abs in the snow. It works for cars that are driving too fast and need to stop fast in a short distance. That's how I drive rally too since the car is always lose.

 

[stormbringer]

the oversteer while downshifting plagues quite a few cars in the game. The supra RZ is one of the ones that really pisses me off. 2nd gear to be more precise.

The only way to control it (adapt to it) is to take turns in a higher gear, or make sure you dont downshift into the peak torque rpm in the lower gear. you need to aim for a lower rpm in the oversteer causing gear.

Ive tried all sorts of tuning setups but they cant get rid of the problem. you can minimize it but you cant get rid of it.

 

[Gejabo]

wait!

You are obsessed by realism, but you use a DS3?

 

[McClarenDesign]

wait!

You are obsessed by realism, but you use a DS3?

If he could get a wheel, why would he have been using 1.00 for so long?

 

[samiazza]

I believe PD did not module the tier widths correctly in some cars so my theory is that currently they put same tire widths in front and rear while it is not the case in real life where rear tiers are much wider, try softer compounds in rear to compensate and see how the F40 becomes more reasonable.

One example of this is the Mclaren F1 and the MP4-12c, the last one was fixed after some update 1.xx so now it drives more realistic

 

[DDAAVVIIDD82]

I really wish that I could say the F40 in the game performs as they do in real life, but alas I haven't had the opportunity to drive one. All I can really say is try to do a better job of rev-matching on shifts and mind the lift-off oversteer that a few cars possess. An added benefit to rev-matching is that it'll improve your lap times because being smooth in every aspect is key.

 

[Alex p.]

This car gives me nightmares, it really does split the good drivers from the amazing drivers. I simply can't max it, I'm like 8 seconds slower with it on the Nordschleife, than the best players. That is some huge difference.

 

[DDAAVVIIDD82]

I may tackle it next, took me the better part of a day to nail down a quicker time in the Yellow Bird.

 

[Griffith500]

the oversteer while downshifting plagues quite a few cars in the game. The supra RZ is one of the ones that really pisses me off. 2nd gear to be more precise.

The only way to control it (adapt to it) is to take turns in a higher gear, or make sure you dont downshift into the peak torque rpm in the lower gear. you need to aim for a lower rpm in the oversteer causing gear.

Ive tried all sorts of tuning setups but they cant get rid of the problem. you can minimize it but you cant get rid of it.

Ever heard of left-foot braking? I wonder why anyone would use such a technique in RWD cars if they're perfectly stable on deceleration.
Have you tried tightening up the LSD on deceleration? Not too much as it'll give you understeer, naturally. I used to shun left-foot-braking because I couldn't dance on and off the clutch properly, until I realised (thanks to Senna) that I could do the same thing using heel and toe.

I love the F40; it's easy to drive at a moderate pace, but as soon as you up the tempo, it gets a bit hairy. It's one of those "slow down to go faster" affairs. I've won shuffle races in F40s, all aids off, because I took it steady and remained at a consistent-(ish) pace whilst others were driving "balls to the wall" and inevitably ending up balls in the wall. Just like the Yellowbird, you learn to be more subtle with the steering and to pay more attention to the throttle.

You steer the car with your feet; the steering wheel is used only to present the car to the corner.

 

[OK8]

I've used brake balance 4/1 with no problems. If there's still oversteer under brakes, try 4/0 (I use that only on the Miura).

Also I don't understand people who say this car is particularily difficult to drive. In my opinion the only thing difficult about it is the huge turbo lag. In the end it's still easier than the Yellowbird for example.

Ps.

You steer the car with your feet; the steering wheel is used only to present the car to the corner.

That is a brilliant quote Griffith500. With cars like the Yellowbird and Stratos that's really what you do. Your feet make the real decisions in the corner while the steering wheel just gives subtle suggestions as to what to do next.

 

[kavkaz87]

Maybe because you have an option for ABS, maybe set it on 1?

Please don't blast me,!!! cause I mentioned using the abs, maybe you can practice with it and when you feel confident enough, turn it off???

 

[Alex p.]

I may tackle it next, took me the better part of a day to nail down a quicker time in the Yellow Bird.

Would love to see what you can do with it. You're defo one of the very best players around.

 

[dj-smurph]

I trail the gas pedal on most rwd cars to stop the wheels locking up. It also stops the front end from diving too much meaning a much harder braking phase, then a more stable entry into the corner and the most important you can get on the gas early.

 

[Cosbuster]

Nothing wrong with the car, it's the stock brake balance that kills everything.

 

[XEPEGTP]

I tried everything, even setting the brake strength to 0, and adjusting the ballast all the way to front to induce a bit of understeer. But no luck...

I use the same philosophy as you, old cars\race cars have no Aids, and i use appropriate tires (as close to stock as possible).

At first 1.00 i couldnt touch the F40 it was too crazy, but now i find it really enjoyable with Sport Mediums and a F3R1 brake balance, but one must treat her gently.

Stock Tire Recommendation guide suggests Sport Hard, but this is not enough grip.

Also i set my STEERING SENSITIVITY to (minus)-2, it makes driving with DS3 less snappy and more controlled, try adjusting this setting in the pre-drive Driving Options menu(this wasnt in 1.00 so it maybe you havent been experimenting with this option)

 

[HuskyGT]

How on Earth did you survive that much with 1.00?!?!

The game was very poor back then compared to nowadays...

No fast internet service available until now.

Not to be an annoying troll, but I do believe this update as 2.05 rather then 4.05, probably just a typo 👍

Now to the topic, I too hate the Over steer the F40 is compromised with in GT5.. I love the car, but in the game is just isn't good. It's a shame..

Yep, typo.

wait!

You are obsessed by realism, but you use a DS3?

Can't afford it like the rest.

I may tackle it next, took me the better part of a day to nail down a quicker time in the Yellow Bird.

It's funny, but I have no problems with the Yellow Bird, or BTR even with ABS off. I guess it's like most say, it's just a matter of practice. though I remember that the F40 was much more easier to drive in GT5P III.

XEPEGTP
I use the same philosophy as you, old cars\race cars have no Aids, and i use appropriate tires (as close to stock as possible).

At first 1.00 i couldnt touch the F40 it was too crazy, but now i find it really enjoyable with Sport Mediums and a F3R1 brake balance, but one must treat her gently.

Stock Tire Recommendation guide suggests Sport Hard, but this is not enough grip.

Also i set my STEERING SENSITIVITY to (minus)-2, it makes driving with DS3 less snappy and more controlled, try adjusting this setting in the pre-drive Driving Options menu(this wasnt in 1.00 so it maybe you havent been experimenting with this option)

I haven't tried the steering sensitivity. Thanks for bringing it out. I'll play with it later.

Thanks guys.

 

[DDAAVVIIDD82]

The F40 is nearly broken in but I'm 6 seconds short of the current best with the car in its present condition, so I'll have to just wait and see. It's not that I have a difficult time with the CTR, in fact I love intentionally hanging the tail out around the parabola on Monza at stupid speeds, it's just that it took me that long to beat the posted time. Oh, and that's sensitivity, not sensibility.

Update: 07:23.012 in the stock F40 around the Nordschleife with lots of room for improvement but no more time for a while. I switched to DS3 and ran a few good ones close to that, but the slower time is probably because I haven't used a controller in a while. Oversteer during downshifts and lift-off is there, but it's not that difficult to plan for it. It just amazes me that the F1 is only 2 years newer and look at the differences between the two.

 

[HuskyGT]

I managed to fixed the car. All it took was to do something crazy like copying most of the suspension scheme of a MR race car(Ford MK IV which suffers from a similar problem but can be fixed easily), adjust the ballast, lowering the brake power to 0 at the rear and adjusting the LSD braking force to 45.

I'm running the car with sport softs, fully adjustable suspension, all assists off including ABS (finally) and everything else completely stock. It now runs great and the snap oversteer under lift or braking has almost gone completely, or at least it can be avoided with ease as long as you do the heavy braking in a straight line(before, it lost the tail even in smooth straights). I tried it in the Ferrari race and it didn't loose the tail in any of the corners.

I'm finally happy with the car.

 

[phil_75]

The F40 is nearly broken in but I'm 6 seconds short of the current best with the car in its present condition, so I'll have to just wait and see. It's not that I have a difficult time with the CTR, in fact I love intentionally hanging the tail out around the parabola on Monza at stupid speeds, it's just that it took me that long to beat the posted time. Oh, and that's sensitivity, not sensibility.

What is this "time to beat" refering to?

 

[mu22stang]

...i use appropriate tires (as close to stock as possible)...Stock Tire Recommendation guide suggests Sport Hard, but this is not enough grip...

Not enough grip for you, too much grip when compared to reality. Comfort softs at best for a realistic grip level.

On the game, some cars are fun to drive on and some are fun to look at. This much is true in reality as well. If you want to keep the car as close to stock, but you want handling characteristics that seem closer to your expectations for this car, install a fully customizable differential and start playing. You can transform turn in, mid corner, and corner exit characteristics with this mod alone.

 

[HuskyGT]

Not enough grip for you, too much grip when compared to reality. Comfort softs at best for a realistic grip level.

On the game, some cars are fun to drive on and some are fun to look at. This much is true in reality as well. If you want to keep the car as close to stock, but you want handling characteristics that seem closer to your expectations for this car, install a fully customizable differential and start playing. You can transform turn in, mid corner, and corner exit characteristics with this mod alone.

I avoid using Racing tires in street cars, but still I felt like Sports were kind of not street legal. It's good to confirm this thanks to your post. Most of my cars under 400hp have comfort softs, but I've been thinking of switching to these tires also for cars above 400hp. I'm NOT quite sure how to tweak the fully custom LSD without messing the car's driveablility though.

 

[another_jakhole]

For me, most cars that aren't high powered (anything less than the 400-500hp range depending on the type of car) or aren't considered supercars, Comfort tires are perfect. For a car like the F40, Sports tires aren't all that bad to use for them. It seems unreasonable for a car like that to be street legal with cheap Comfort tires.

just my two cents about that.


HuskyGT, saaaaave up for a wheel. That should be your next step since you've been able to get all the updates recently. The feel when using the DFGT has improved BIG TIME since launch.

 

[mu22stang]

I'm NOT quite sure how to tweak the fully custom LSD without messing the car's driveablility though.

The tuning section has a ton of info on tuning the limited slip. In general, the numerical values are counterintuitive.

Initial torque: the lower the value, the more abruptly the car will react. For instance, a MR car already has the tendency to throttle-off-oversteer. If you lower the initial torque, this oversteer will happen more abruptly.

Acceleration: the lower the value, the more the car will throttle-on oversteer.

Deceleration: the lower the value, the more the car will throttle-off oversteer.

Not every car is the same and the settings are very subjective. Driving style plays a big part on what works best.

It seems unreasonable for a car like that to be street legal with cheap Comfort tires.

just my two cents about that.

The most prevalent assumption of this game is that the label for each tire class has any real meaning when compared to actual, real tires. Comfort is just a word. The little picture next to the tire selection is just a picture. Look at the lap times and look at the g forces.

 

[Griffith500]

The tuning section has a ton of info on tuning the limited slip. In general, the numerical values are counterintuitive.

Initial torque: the lower the value, the more abruptly the car will react. For instance, a MR car already has the tendency to throttle-off-oversteer. If you lower the initial torque, this oversteer will happen more abruptly.

Acceleration: the lower the value, the more the car will throttle-on oversteer.

Deceleration: the lower the value, the more the car will throttle-off oversteer.

Not every car is the same and the settings are very subjective. Driving style plays a big part on what works best.



The most prevalent assumption of this game is that the label for each tire class has any real meaning when compared to actual, real tires. Comfort is just a word. The little picture next to the tire selection is just a picture. Look at the lap times and look at the g forces.

Should this not be the opposite, or is it backwards in GT5?