Action shot questions (using nikon d40)

[Soullessvessel]

I've just recently got into SLR photography and my still have been pretty good thus far....some people even saying they are near pro quality, thought I dunno if I agree with that statement it is quite reassuring to hear none the less. One thing that I've yet to have practice with though is cars in motion, and all my past attempts at it have failed, so I was wondering if I can get some hints about what settings I should try for a drift even coming up in aug so I dont have a bunch of bad pics and i can get more suitable settings.

I'm using a Nikon D40with a 18-105 mm lens and have a tripod.

I have some ideas as to what to do to get the desired effect like the photos my buddy took last year(shown below) but I'm not entirely sure and its all based off my own theories, so I was thinking I could outline my ideas as to what to do, and anyone with exprence could maybe tell me correctly what I should be doing or fill in the blanks as to what I frankly don't know.

Ok, 1st of everything will be outdoor with ..I think daytime lighting conditions, but there might be night stuff to like there was last year.

First off, I was thinking running on Shutter priority mode so and only deal with exposure if pics are coming in to bright, but I can't see it being an issue. Shutter speed I have no clue what to use frankly.

2) was going to shoot with auto focus so I get the crisp pics I'm looking for so there isnt an error on my judgement

3) ISO is staying as low as I can unless we get into night photos.

4) Now I looking at other settings, some I dont know about one is "focus mode" I really have no clue what that is and what differences it makes.

Edit on this, I thinik I should use AF-C (Continuous-servo AF) since it seems the cam is always focusing on a moving subject as im pressing shutter release.

5) My AF-area mode I'm guessing I use Dynamic area where the cam lets me pic focus area but adjusts it in the car will leave said area.

6)Shooting mode I was thinking of doing Continuous/burst for obvious reasons

7) my metering I was going to just use Matrix since..frankly I'm lost in the other 2 settings.

I think that's basically it, if anyone can fill in anything I dont know, or missed I would be very grateful or correcting anything incorrect I think is correct, as well as giving me some in site as to what to do in sunset/night settings since I'm more lost in that.

Lastly I'm sorry for making this so long.

Small Edit I might be getting in car shots too, and I dunno what settings I should use on that either and forget my example pics. (cant show pics on here only links)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/santif2d/2771588065/sizes/o/in/set-72157606798169961/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/santif2d/2788305324/sizes/o/in/set-72157606798169961/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/santif2d/2787450583/sizes/o/in/set-72157606798169961/

 

[Syntax error]

You’ve got the right idea. A lot of people use shutter priority, personally I prefer full manual and I make adjustments if needed on the fly. It removes the element of surprise the metering can throw up frequently, being that cars are for the most part large pieces of shiny metal.

There is no general rule for shutter speed, it will depend on how quick the subject is moving, however I tend to go about 1-2 stops below the slowest recommended hand held for the lens ie. 1/30 instead of the recommended 1/60 for a 24-105mm or 1/200 on a 70-200mm instead of the recommended 1/250. These are just setting I use hand held, you can probably have the shutter open for longer if you use a monopod but personally I find that you increase the chance of blurring the subject accidently.

Continuous-servo AF is definitely the focusing option you need to use. Also remember to put your camera into continuous shoot mode (burst) as well so that you can fire off multiple shots. This is because you might find a minute vibration from pressing the shutter button can cause the first shot to not be sharp enough whilst 2 & 3 etc should be fine.

Although people say not to rely on checking your screen, I can’t stress enough that it’s there so use it to review your shots whilst the cars are at the opposite end of the track. Check your histogram to see where the light is grouping and also the check if any overexposed areas are flashing in black (not sure if that is an option on Nikons but it’s a lifesaver on Canons) so you can make the appropriate adjustments. Remember though for the most detail in the shot, the histogram will be grouped around the middle however that’s not always the best shot

There are no hard and fast rules, mostly go out and have fun, experiment and if you are enjoying yourself, the good photos will flow.

 

[Soullessvessel]

I do have a Histogram...but I've never made sense of it honestly and there is something called "highlight" as well..I'm assuming I can use that to check over exposure.

I'm still trying to make sense of stupid nikon shutter speed too they don't like telling you things in fraction of a second, instead they will 1" for 1 second 2" for 2 seconds ect then from there anything shorter then a second it will say 1.3 1.6 ect ect all the way up to 4000 for the shutter speeds, so I'm struggling to figure out its logic.

edit i found out how to read a histogram...and mostly the shutter speed...the number it displays the 1/ is implyed so 2 = 1/2 ...as for 1/1.3 and 1/1.6 im having an extremely hard time figuring those out.

 

[Syntax error]

I do have a Histogram...but I've never made sense of it honestly and there is something called "highlight" as well..I'm assuming I can use that to check over exposure.

The histogram is useful only as a guide to giving you more information which you would other wise have difficulty seeing on a small screen when trying to review your shot. When in TV, AV or auto modes, the camera’s metering system will try and keep your image within the centre parameters of the histogram where possible. A lot of people fall into the trap of thinking that all shots should be exposed so that the image data sits in the middle of the histogram. In reality this can lead to average shots that don’t have much character or punch.

Highlight.... that's what it's called. The over exposed or "blown out" parts of your image that are entirely white will flash in black. This is probably the handiest function as it can sometimes be hard to see if there is any detail in the sky on the small screen.

 

[Soullessvessel]

Cool thanks, taught me to learn a few things that I had no clue what they were or did. Anyone else who has in site though feel free to offer it though since I want these pics to come out the best I can get them since I'm getting a media pass.

 

[Scaff]

Personally I would always use manual metering for trackwork, and always take a reading from the track surface (as SE says cars are very shiney and often throw metering out), then preview and adjust from that manual setting.

In regard to Histogram's they are a very useful tool, effectively the far left hand side is Black and the far right is white, with everything else in between.

In general if you have no info on the left and lots on the right you have an over exposed picture, the reverse (lots on the left and nothing on the right) would be a under exposed picture.

However its not always that simple (which is a shame), take this histogram for example.

Based on what I just said, at first glance its underexposed, however when we look at the picture.

What you can now see is that we have lots of black shades (the large amount of info on the left of the histogram), with a few small white areas such as the needle, digits, etc. These are the tiny spike on the right of the histogram.

A good example of SE's comment that you don't always need info slap bang in the middle of a histogram to make a decent picture.


Another example would be this histogram.

The image has no true zero detail black in it, hence the lack of info at the far left of the histogram; however it has a lot of white in it (from the sky, shirt, etc) and as such its more stacked to the right of the histogram.


Hope that helps make a bit of sense of histograms.

The best bit of advice I can give is simply take as many pictures as you can, if in doubt get an extra memory card before you go and take loads.


Regards

Scaff

 

[Soullessvessel]

Thanks a bunch it does seem like a useful tool...& its gonna save me a few hundred dollars actually since i was gonna get a netbook for on the fly photo reviews since that small screen esp in direct sunlight is really hard to see, but those 2 tools will really help to simplify things. I'll definitely be writing down alot of things I pick up in here and other places as quite reference notes to read at the track/on the bus when if I get lost on settings.

 

[Syntax error]

Thanks a bunch it does seem like a useful tool...& its gonna save me a few hundred dollars actually since i was gonna get a netbook for on the fly photo reviews since that small screen esp in direct sunlight is really hard to see, but those 2 tools will really help to simplify things. I'll definitely be writing down alot of things I pick up in here and other places as quite reference notes to read at the track/on the bus when if I get lost on settings.

I wouldn't bother with a notebook unless you are working on a tight deadline for a publication that needs images FTP’d on location. You’ll just end up lugging it around. I take a lot of equipment with me when I head out to the track (the notebook stays at home unless I really need it), but a vast majority of it will stay in the car anyway. If you are anything like me, you’ll find yourself doing a lot of walking so being light is a big priority.

 

[Soullessvessel]

ehh all I'm really gonna have is the cam a tripod that has a bag I can throw over my shoulders and backpack with some food/water the book is like....a pound XD so i'll risk it just cause I know I have memory issues and can't really rely on it, even more so with new things to me.

 

[Scaff]

Motorsport I wouldn't bother with the tripod myself, its extra weight and will not help you out at all. A monopod would be a better choice if you are after a bit more stability, as they can help with panning shots, something a tripod will not do to any great degree.


Regards

Scaff

 

[Soullessvessel]

Ok thanks guys the event is next week so hopefully all goes well.

 

[GTP_Deathwalker]

Hmmmmm , i would either use Shutter Priority , Apperture Priority [A], or Full Manual [M]. try and keep the shutter speeds decent unless you want to really get creative with some slower exposures. Use Auto Focus Continuous AF-C and try Matrix metering, ive never had no problems with it at the track before!

Good luck with your shooting

 

[homeforsummer]

Motorsport I wouldn't bother with the tripod myself, its extra weight and will not help you out at all. A monopod would be a better choice if you are after a bit more stability, as they can help with panning shots, something a tripod will not do to any great degree.

I'd possibly suggest even passing on the monopod. I bought one because I thought it would be of great use, and it ended up just being a nuisance. I can pan way more smoothly without a monopod. It's all about the stance

 

[Scaff]

I'd possibly suggest even passing on the monopod. I bought one because I thought it would be of great use, and it ended up just being a nuisance. I can pan way more smoothly without a monopod. It's all about the stance

Never used one myself either, but I know a few people who find them a great help.

One area that I think is personal preference, until you get to very large lenses, then they become pretty much a must.


Regards

Scaff

 

[Soullessvessel]

Ya I was thinking it will be personal prefrence, but I'll try both out an see, I picked up a 4 gig card so I have 1500 a day total, and got myself a polarizing filter.

 

[homeforsummer]

One area that I think is personal preference, until you get to very large lenses, then they become pretty much a must.

True. The lenses begin to get too heavy to hold steady over a certain point. You'd end up with some beautiful shots of your feet though...

 

[NLxAROSA]

Hmmmmm , i would either use Shutter Priority , Apperture Priority [A], or Full Manual [M].

I'd stick with Shutter Priority or Manual for action shots. You really want to make sure the shutter speed is right, especially when panning. I'd go with shutter priority for starters and use exposure compensation to correct the camera's metering if necessary.

 

[Scaff]

Ya I was thinking it will be personal prefrence, but I'll try both out an see, I picked up a 4 gig card so I have 1500 a day total, and got myself a polarizing filter.

The polarizing filter will be great for static shots as it will allow you to get rid of a lot of relflections on bodywork and glass, keep in mind that you will loose a few 'stops' worth of light as a result.

True. The lenses begin to get too heavy to hold steady over a certain point. You'd end up with some beautiful shots of your feet though...

👍 Very true, but you would end up with huge arms in the long term.

I'd stick with Shutter Priority or Manual for action shots. You really want to make sure the shutter speed is right, especially when panning. I'd go with shutter priority for starters and use exposure compensation to correct the camera's metering if necessary.

Have to agree with this and one handy tip is to keep your shutter speed the same as the focal length you are using as a minimum.

So if you are using a lens at 300mm, then use 1/300th or above, shutter priority makes this very easy to do, as does manual (once you get used to it). Up the ASA rating if you need to rather than lowering the shutter speed; grain can be corrected (and in some cases add to a picture), camera shake can't.


Regards

Scaff

 

[Soullessvessel]

some pics from the weekend, alot more to come, I'm just copy and pasting this stuff from another forum..so don't expect anyone here to know what these captions are about. my Polarizing filter seemed to screw me over a bit since I didnt know how to use it but ya any comments feel free.

ok pic from DMCC round 4 few things to note.

1) if you want WP size ask...but my lens isnt great so I've had to crop them so most are unuseable for wallpapers, sorry
2) 1st pics are of my buddys team since they are using them for their website so the initial pics will be of the same cars/people there will be more later since im updating this as I do more
3) I'm not putting all of them here, if you wanna see them all go to http://www.flickr.com/photos/ag86/

ok onto the pics

The King rides shotgun in this 240

One of the Drift Posse cars running in the pro division

love the paint on the door

JDM Levin, one of the 1st in the country, have a shoot with the owner in a few weeks

Drift Posse is not a fan of e-break initiation

Spend alot of my day here on day one hiding from the heat

The man who started Drift Posse Patrick Cyr :woeh:

Pat, and the owner of the Levin looking at something I frankly cant be bothered looking at

Pat and his Girl/Mechanic posing with the Drift Posse 86