Am I setting the brakes correctly?

66'Roadster

(Banned)
938
When I take a car out I will adjudt the brake balance like this:
FF car 7 front 3 rear
FR cars 3 front 7 rear etc
my theory being the area that has the drive should have more breaking power, and for a while I used that. Now tho I just leave them at 5/5.
Is there a best method for a particular drive layout? And am i right in that front eheel drive csrs understeer while rear wheel drivers oversteer?
 
When I take a car out I will adjudt the brake balance like this:
FF car 3 front 7 rear
FR cars 7 front 3 rear etc
my theory being the area that has the drive should have more breaking power, and for a while I used that. Now tho I just leave them at 5/5.
Is there a best method for a particular drive layout? And am i right in that front eheel drive csrs understeer while rear wheel drivers oversteer?

Regardless of the car, I've always set the front to 7 or 8 and the rear 2 notches lower than the front. Example: front 7 rear 5. Front 8 rear 6. It also depends on if/what you have the ABS set to. If you set the rear brakes to high your @@s end will fish tail all over the place. In real cars, as a rule, the front brakes handle 70% of the braking and the rear 30%.
Can anyone else verify my answer or offer any other input?
 
When I take a car out I will adjudt the brake balance like this:
FF car 7 front 3 rear
FR cars 3 front 7 rear etc
my theory being the area that has the drive should have more breaking power, and for a while I used that. Now tho I just leave them at 5/5.
Is there a best method for a particular drive layout? And am i right in that front eheel drive csrs understeer while rear wheel drivers oversteer?
My theory is the bias should be slightly to the front (60/40ish) because thats where the weight of the car goes to under braking, then adjusted from there.

Also the brakes should be weaker at the end that drives the car(but I usually leave FF's at 5/5). The reason for this is engine braking also helps slow the car, and makes the braking stronger at that end of the car
 
You'll usually want to have the brake balance biased to the front.

Under braking, the weight shifts to the front, putting mroe presure on the front wheels. Therefore, more brake pressure is needed before the tyres will look up. On the rear, tthe opposite will happen; the rear gets lighter, the rear wheels get more prone to locking.
Therefore, if the brake balance isn't set properly, the rear wheels will start to slide out when you're not braking in a perfectly straight line.

I usually start with 7/3. Quite heavily biased to the front, I know, but it usually works pretty well with my driving style, as I usually tend to brake late and turn in slightly before releasing the brakes...
 
7/3 for FF and 3/7 for FR is close to the exact opposite of how I set mine.

For FR and 4WD, I go 7/4 if the car is pretty stable and I can brake aggressively.
For MR, 8/2 or 7/3 seems to keep me controlled best.

FFs are tricky because of tire wear...if the brakes are biased to the Front and the drive is the Front, the tires will wear quickly. I usually go toward the middle or 4/6 to counteract that. It works because I know the rear end isn't going anywhere on those cars anyway.

But it really all depends on how the car is setup and personal driving style. If the car is "tight", biased toward the rear could help you turn a bit.

Take a stock GT-R on any track and run a couple of laps both ways and see your lap times. Testing each is the only way to know.

Also, from my experience, a total value of 10 is "standard" braking distance. Less than 10 will mean the brakes will be a little weaker (you'll need to brake sooner) and more than 10, stronger. The weight of the car seems to come into play here. The Formula GT, for example...if the total value is 10, then it brakes way too much imo. A total of 5 is max for that car for me. But a normal car that weighs 1000kg more...5 is not nearly enough. I like to brake just a touch late.
 
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7/3 for FF and 3/7 for FR is close to the exact opposite of how I set mine.

For FR and 4WD, I go 7/4 if the car is pretty stable and I can brake aggressively.
For MR, 8/2 or 7/3 seems to keep me controlled best.

FFs are tricky because of tire wear...if the brakes are biased to the Front and the drive is the Front, the tires will wear quickly. I usually go toward the middle or 4/6 to counteract that. It works because I know the rear end isn't going anywhere on those cars anyway.

But it really all depends on how the car is setup and personal driving style. If the car is "tight", biased toward the rear could help you turn a bit.

Take a stock GT-R on any track and run a couple of laps both ways and see your lap times. Testing each is the only way to know.

Ah, our cars dont get tyre wear as damage is off! ( we have two accounts and switch between the two)
Might set mine to shpw damage- I wondered why the pit lanes dont do anything!
 
I run almost all my cars front 3 rear 1. I'm using a G25 wheel and using this setting helps keep the brakes from locking up most times, the braking is weak but I like it. You can hit the brakes pretty hard and no brake screech.
 
It depends on the static weight distribution, ie if you have a front engined car, more weight is towards the front so you will set the brake bias to the front. If you have a mid engine car you can use the rear tires more to help you brake, so a 6/4 setting works well.
 
More braking at the rear will induce oversteer. This effect is independent of stopping performance, really. I would say get both front and rear working to their full potential, then dial in more or less rear brakes to your preference - stability vs oversteer. For example, FF cars don't turn too well on the throttle, so a driver will usually try to do most turning as he enters the corner, rather than the exit. Also, GT's "1 ABS" is super effective.

If anyone wants to do some real tests of stopping distances, that would be very interesting. Otherwise I might do some myself.
 
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^^^ Depends on the FF car. Some are able to muscle themselves around corners under full accel just fine. Others seem to fail. I'm an FR guy so sorry, I can't cite specific cars atm.
 
Nope, you've got it backwards. For the most part FF cars have a tendency to oversteer while FR cars will understeer. The more powerful the car, the more prone they are as well. In the real world, car mfr's tend to make passenger cars with a certain amount of understeer built in. It's a safety feature because the majority of people are average drivers, and a little understeer is more forgiving and controllable than a little oversteer.
I should note that FF cars also have an inherant ability to power through corners if setup properly, while trying the same speeds in a comparable FR car will cause it to fishtail out and spin. It's all in the setup.

Wrong. Oversteering = drifting. Understeering = turning the wheel a lot and the car pushes forward.

Oversteering usually applies to FR. Understeering usually applies to FF. The OP had it right.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shwgNV36xFA
 
Wrong. Oversteering = drifting. Understeering = turning the wheel a lot and the car pushes forward.

Oversteering usually applies to FR. Understeering usually applies to FF. The OP had it right.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shwgNV36xFA

Right. Got my shyt backwards. Sorry about that.
Answer me this. The FGT is an understeering pig. It's a MR correct? How should I go about setting the various steering/suspension components to give more oversteer to it? It has a horrible push in corners, the car wanting to go in a straight line although the front tires are turned. It doesn't fishtail out or drift though.
 
Right. Got my shyt backwards. Sorry about that.
Answer me this. The FGT is an under-steering pig. It's a MR correct? How should I go about setting the various steering/suspension components to give more over-steer to it? It has a horrible push in corners, the car wanting to go in a straight line although the front tires are turned. It doesn't fishtail out or drift though.

The lamborghini settings that were suggested for the Historical Expert race turned out kinda bad for me as they were default of 10/40/20. I play with the diff setting most to try and dial out some of that MR understeer. For "me" the diff settings of 10/20/10 worked MUCH better. Still couldnt hammer it out of the corner but it was much more forgiving.

I still haven't got the hang of tuning in GT5. In Forza3 it was easier and more intuitive. I have to go through the GT5 tuning manual more in depth.
 
More braking at the rear will induce oversteer. This effect is independent of stopping performance, really. I would say get both front and rear working to their full potential, then dial in more or less rear brakes to your preference - stability vs oversteer. For example, FF cars don't turn too well on the throttle, so a driver will usually try to do most turning as he enters the corner, rather than the exit. Also, GT's "1 ABS" is super effective.

If anyone wants to do some real tests of stopping distances, that would be very interesting. Otherwise I might do some myself.
I can confirm that setting the Front and Rear Bias to 10 each (total of 20) will stop you sooner in the License Tests than the default settings of 5 each (total of 10).
Makes those stopping test pretty easy.
 
Brake bias tuning in GT is somewhat broken. In real life an FF car will naturally have far more front brake bias than an MR car. If you follow real life theory in GT you end up with terminally understeering FF cars and MR cars which swap ends if you so much as breathe on the brake. For nose heavy cars move the bias rearwards, and for rear heavy cars move it forward.
 
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