Audi R8 LMS set up?

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Australia
Australia
Hi I'm just wondering if anyone has a good set up to use for an Audi R8 LMS im using it in one of the gt6 online competitions and haven't had much of a play around with it yet but it would be good to get the best set up for the car thanks.
 
Hi I'm just wondering if anyone has a good set up to use for an Audi R8 LMS im using it in one of the gt6 online competitions and haven't had much of a play around with it yet but it would be good to get the best set up for the car thanks.
Try the GT6 tuning forums 👍 i think there is some tunes in there...
 
Its a hard one to get working well, for some reason the rears seem to spin up very quickly once they lose traction.
Adding a bit of camber to the fronts on this car can also help make it less "snappy" when the front end eventually lets go.
Persevere if you like but their are a lot of easier drives out there.
Ohh LMS is not quite as bad as the Ultra or my driving got a bit better when I tried it.
 
I generally start with the same base setup on all LMP and group c cars. Then I tweak and tweak, until it feels solid. The base tune I took from the 908 that I setup to what I consider damn near perfection.

I use the same base tune and weigh all of the cars out to about 935-945kg. Being that they all run the same ride heights and weights basically - that is why I have a little LMP base tune. People lower the diff specs way too much in a lot of the tunes they post online. They're doing it because they can't tighten up the front enough, because high locks will give you understeer.

The best tip I've been given is run spring rates on the soft side and struts/shocks on the stiff side. I note or less run the same shock and sway bar settings on most cars in the game. Ride height is key to pair the springs rates up with the strut properties.

The best tip I can give is to start learning how to set a car up with high rear lock settings and tightening up the front, until the car feels balanced out from front to back in terms of grip. I generally run initial torque (preload) and decel lock at the same right and about 10% less than the accel lock.

A high lock and preloaded diff carrier will really make or break the feeling of and your confidence in the car. It is so much more predictable. High initial torque will pin the rear to the ground quite better mid turn as will high decel lock and you'll be more stable under braking. High accel lock gets you romping turn exits like it's going out of style. You'll get more life out of the rear tires, too. Won't have to shirt shift at lower speeds as much, etc.

I build LS differentials for older bmws, so that kind of helps. Another thing - start the setup with high diff settings and tune it around that. Don't tune it, then monkey with the diff settings. You'll end up changing the tune around or setting the diff back to low lock rates to compensate.

Example - I run 55% lock on my E60 M5 in gt6. It weighs in at over 1300kg. I walk away from guys using tune out 458s, 12Cs, etc. And I notice some are even using aides aside from ABS. This is usually on the 24hr ring circuit. I often get the "damn, dude. That thing is quick!" "It is, isn't it." :)

A lot of people do not consider the fact that running low spring setting at a low ride high ≠ a soft springs no.matter the case. Consider the fact that the lower you go, with the same spring rates, the stiffer they become. It seems the spring modelling was done via progressive spring properties. So, you can set a car up fairly low with the right combos. Lower center of gravity is noticed as well on my end with a well setup car, compared to the same one with a higher ride height setup. They'll both be good tunes, but I'll notice the good setup with a lower COG helps a lot with lateral grip.

The problem is that it take hours to find sweet spots. There are cars that I've spent days to get where I wanted them to be. Believe it or not, my favorite car to drive is the bentley right now. I really like the 908. It feels like it has a vacuum sucking it to the ground, but the bentley can match it's times...somehow. I just think it is beautiful, so I was happy the car can be setup well.

When you drive the car, just adjust one thing at a time, too. Iron out the biggest short comings first.
 
Just for reference and consideration of that tune...my Renault mégane trophy cup car does Silverstone at 1:59.XXX as well with down force of max levels 50 up front and 100 in the rear. I believe it weighs a little less, there are many stock cars in the game with more down force on tap. Thought we were talking LMPs, not gt3. My bad. But the Audi has over 5x the amount of downforce you can throw at the Renault and it is just as quick. So...I would venture off to say that it may be best to find another. The front toe settings on that setup is ridiculous. That compensating for the rear snapping out on entires and exits. Entries most notably, though. Undoubtedly. I try not to run more than .03 out up front and never lower than the base toe setting in the rear. You'll get better tire wear the closer you are to zero toe up front. If you are turning in too easily, then begin to understeer, you need a little toe out. Otherwise, try to get as close to zero as possible. Better grip as well in all aspects, if you can set it up well with zero toe up front. You can also tell that tuner of the above R8 had trouble with the rear coming around, because he is running lower rear toe settings than optimal. That'll make the car want to rotate/pivot less on the rear axle as you turn. But, it will also cost you some stability and predictabiltity of the rear. I stay between .2-.22 in the rear. If that is not working, then something wrong with my setup elsewhere. .23 seems to get the rear rotating to much on entries. A lot of toe in the front and rear would probably be good for drifting, come to think of it. Not my cup of tea, but just a thought.
 
Thanks that's exactly what I was looking for will use this as my set up and hopefully be able to stop losing races. Also will take into account on that post by @332i said. Also What lap times should i be looking at doing on Ascari race course by the way?

I haven't tried it at Ascari races yet :(

With stock gearing and 528HP, it managed 52.5xxs at Tsukuba, 1:23.3xxs at Brands Hatch GP, 2:04s at Bathurst and 2:01s at Silverstone GP, all on 1st lap ( RH tire - no aids / no ABS ), which is very quick for a no oil change power GT3 car :) For toe setup, the car was tuned for offline races, so you can run less toe up front and fine tune the rear to your style/preference if you want better tire wear.
 
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