Brand Hatch WTC 700 - how do you crack the code?

[Cheesehead64]

I've tried both Gr. 4 on one pit strategy and Gr. 3 on no pit strategy and always end up mid pack.

Tips on car selection, pit strategy, and fuel mapping? Fuel mapping is always a struggle on a shorter track using a controller. Doable but often messes me up.

Also in general, I tend to choke down my Gr. 3s a lot using the output and power restrictors to like 70. Am I doing it wrong? What other settings should I use to choke them down to 700? Ballast? What is most important?

 

[seadog777]

Try the Jaguar Gr.4 and add the supercharger, high-end torque. Will give you PP 680 ish.
Use Racing Hard tyres.
Fuel Management to 3, as soon as you can. This will give you 5 laps. So you only need to pit once. Don't bother changing it, leave it at 3.
You don't need to change the tyres at the stop, but you might as well, only adds a few seconds.
I'm an averagely skilled driver and I can win it comfortably in that car. I'm lapping back-markers at lap 9.
I've only raced it a few times, always looks like it's going to rain, but never does!

Good luck.


EDIT - The Aston Martin Gr. 4 is a good bet too.

 

[Cheesehead64]

Try the Jaguar Gr.4 and add the supercharger, high-end torque. Will give you PP 680 ish.
Use Racing Hard tyres.
Fuel Management to 3, as soon as you can. This will give you 5 laps. So you only need to pit once.
You don't need to change the tyres at the stop, but you might as well, only adds a few seconds.
I'm an averagely skilled driver and I can win it comfortably in that car. I'm lapping back-markers at lap 9.
I've only raced it a few times, always looks like it's going to rain, but never does!

Good luck.


EDIT - The Aston Martin Gr. 4 is a good bet too.

Thanks!

 

[seadog777]

Thanks!

You replied before I edited..... once you're at FM 3, leave it alone, no need to change it.

 

[C_Raccoon23]

I won this race yesterday with the Citroen Gr.4. All you have to do is short shift and just pit once; no need to mess with the fuel map.

 

[Sunzi]

I used the Pennzoil GTR. Power Restrictor to get it down to 700PP
Fuel Map 1, Racing Hard Tyres, Pit Once at either lap 5 or 6.

It's a homerun.

 

[Cheesehead64]

I won this race yesterday with the Citroen Gr.4. All you have to do is short shift and just pit once; no need to mess with the fuel map.

Dumb question, but what do you mean by short shift? I know when I'm going through a lot of corners I'm downshifting twice - seems to help with quickness. Is that what you mean?

 

[Sunzi]

Dumb question, but what do you mean by short shift? I know when I'm going through a lot of corners I'm downshifting twice - seems to help with quickness. Is that what you mean?

He means shift up to the next gear without taking the gear as far as it'll go.

I.e if you can reach 60MPH in first gear, short shift up to 48MPH instead.

 

[Cheesehead64]

I used the Pennzoil GTR. Power Restrictor to get it down to 700PP
Fuel Map 1, Racing Hard Tyres, Pit Once at either lap 5 or 6.

It's a homerun.

I've been racing a few of the group 3s choked down a bit (like the Aston Martin) using this strategy but I can't seem to get all the way through the field. Need practice I guess!

 

[Guffaluff]

If you want a easy ride, the Red Bull Junior takes this one without breaking a sweat, with no pitstops or fuel saving needed 😇

 

[Islaygaz]

S15 touring car, high rpm turbo map 6. Results in a 1 stop for fuel only (no need to change tyres)! Easy win!

 

[ebadevil]

Suzuki Gr.4, don't need to pit so you got all race to catch up. But if you really want an easy race and guaranteed win, there is always the Tomahawk

 

[pedrocor]

Detuned Porsche 962. Focus on lowering engine output and upping ride height firstly instead of increasing weight, as lower power means less fuel consumption and more weight the opposite.
Buy Racing Hards as it comes with Mediums.
Be aware the stock gearbox is extremely long, good for fuel saving but not so fitted to very low power output.
I believe you can do it in FM1 and has very low tire degradation too (the problem is the rears but so low on power, no wheel spin at all, even with TC off).

 

[B80]

Try the Jaguar Gr.4 and add the supercharger, high-end torque. Will give you PP 680 ish.
Use Racing Hard tyres.
Fuel Management to 3, as soon as you can. This will give you 5 laps. So you only need to pit once. Don't bother changing it, leave it at 3.
You don't need to change the tyres at the stop, but you might as well, only adds a few seconds.
I'm an averagely skilled driver and I can win it comfortably in that car. I'm lapping back-markers at lap 9.
I've only raced it a few times, always looks like it's going to rain, but never does!

Good luck.


EDIT - The Aston Martin Gr. 4 is a good bet too.

Yeah I won this the jag and would have won with gr4 ferrari had I not span off near the end... think tcs1, fuel 4ish, then ramped up when had excess I think for last couple of laps.

I'm also average driver,

 

[Raceface1959]

I used the BRZ or Swift if I recall. Racing hards, pit at the end of 5 for fuel. I don't think I changed tires. And as someone else said, the Red Bull Junior makes ridiculously short work of all of the WTC 600 and 700 events. Racing hards, max ballast and a detune in power to 2 clicks from the left for the 600's.

 

[crooky369]

Ford GT GTE car did it for me.

Didn't think I'd get the win at the halfway mark because the front runners were still pulling away. Think the gap was around 26 seconds at one point. But once I had some free space and starting putting in some decent laps the gap was cut very quickly. To the point where it seemed like the AI was just waiting for me and I breezed past at the end of lap 9.

I think actually spectating at Brands Hatch in real life for the GTWC probably helped me with some of the racing lines as well!

 

[Techlet]

Also in general, I tend to choke down my Gr. 3s a lot using the output and power restrictors to like 70. Am I doing it wrong? What other settings should I use to choke them down to 700? Ballast? What is most important?

I usually add between 65-85kg of ballast (anything more or less seems to have very little effect on PP) and then power restrictor down to 450-500ish HP to tune Gr3s down to 700pp on RH tires. You can play around with repositioning the ballast too (front bias almost always decreases PP and rear bias increases it regardless of the normal weight distribution of the car). You can also lower the front and rear downforce and add back some HP depending on the track (probably not a good idea for Brands).

 

[vonMarshall]

I am having a huge amount of fun and success in all of the 700pp races with my own Gr.4’d up road cars.

Take a nice 550ish base model (I chose a 997 and a R34), max out engine tuning and make as light as possible, tune with one from Priano, a set of RH (that I did not bother changing) and then Fuel Mix 5 or 6.

Not only am I winning with this car, but I find it so much more pleasant to drive than any standard Gr.4’s.

These 10 lap races at some of my favourite tracks with reasonable payouts are my go-to fun runs now. I only win by a couple of seconds and need to drive well (by my standards) but it is incredibly rewarding in all ways.