**Car Physics**

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Hi there, just wondering if anyone could explain a few things to me, I understand BHP, grip, downforce and most general racing physics principals :magnify:, but need a few things explained:

-Torque :burnout: I understand it's the theory of putting your engine power on to the tarmac, but what do the torque ratios mean? Also how would you identify that a car has good torque compared to another? :confused:

-Power to Weight Ratio?
How is this worked out? What is and ideal Power to weight ration? :D

-Curb Weight, don't know even the basic concept, anyone explain?

Thanks a lot for your time and typing :computer: AlexY2K :cheers:
 
Power to weight ratio is the power of the car divided by the weight of the car. Curb weight is the weight of the car itself.
 
the power to weight ratio is power of the car (in Horsepower) divided by the car's weight (in lbs).

Torque is a twisting, or rotational force. For instance, you are applying a torque to a wrench when tightening a bolt. the equation for torque is: Torque = Force x Distance.

The force applied is measured in Newtons, and the distance is the lenght of the lever arm you are using. for instance, if you applied 1 Newton of force to a 1 foot long wrench, you would be applying 1 foot-lb of torque. (because 1x1=1)

To understand the torque ratio better, consider this. the power to weight ratio is power divided by weight, or HP/lb. torque, however, is force times (x) distance. so it is in Foot-lbs (or lb-feet, by the commutative property of multiplication).
 
Here's a somewhat inaccurate but easily understood explanation of torque vs. horsepower:

Imagine two bicyclists. The first guy has massive legs and can pedal straight up hill, but he tires on the long stretches. His name is Torque. The second guy can pedal really fast and hustles the bike along a nice flat road, but he doesn't like hills much. His name is Horsepower.

Help any?
 
I should preface this by saying that I did not come up with this myself. It's good stuff regardless. ;)

Horsepower and Torque – a Primer
There's been a certain amount of discussion, in this and other files, about
the concepts of horsepower and torque, how they relate to each other, and
how they apply in terms of automobile performance. I have observed that,
although nearly everyone participating has a passion for automobiles, there
is a huge variance in knowledge. It's clear that a bunch of folks have
strong opinions (about this topic, and other things), but that has
generally led to more heat than light, if you get my drift. This is meant
to be a primer on the subject.

OK. Here's the deal, in moderately plain English.

Force, Work and Time
If you have a one-pound weight bolted to the floor, and try to lift it with
one pound of force (or 10, or 50 pounds), you will have applied force and
exerted energy, but no work will have been done. If you unbolt the weight,
and apply a force sufficient to lift the weight one foot, then one
foot-pound of work will have been done. If that event takes a minute to
accomplish, then you will be doing work at the rate of one foot-pound per
minute. If it takes one second to accomplish the task, then work will be
done at the rate of 60 pound feet per minute, and so on.
In order to apply these measurements to automobiles and their performance
(whether you're speaking of torque, horsepower, newton meters, watts, or
any other terms), you need to address the three variables of force, work
and time.
A while back, a gentleman by the name of Watt (the same gent who did all
that neat stuff with steam engines) made some observations, and concluded
that the average horse of the time could lift a 550 pound weight one foot
in one second, thereby performing work at the rate of 550 pound feet per
second, or 33,000 pound feet per minute. He then published those
observations, and stated that 33,000 pound feet per minute of work was
equivalent to the power of one horse, or, one horsepower.
Everybody else said okay.

For purposes of this discussion, we need to measure units of force from
rotating objects such as crankshafts, so we'll use terms that define a
twisting force, such as torque. A foot-pound of torque is the twisting
force necessary to support a one-pound weight on a weightless horizontal
bar, one foot from the fulcrum.
Now, it's important to understand that nobody on the planet ever actually
measures horsepower from a running engine on a standard dynomometer. What
we actually measure is torque, expressed in pound feet (in the U.S.), and
then we calculate actual horsepower by converting the twisting force of
torque into the work units of horsepower.
Visualize that one-pound weight we mentioned, one foot from the fulcrum on
its weightless bar. If we rotate that weight for one full revolution
against a one-pound resistance, we have moved it a total of 6.2832 feet (Pi
* a two foot circle), and, incidentally, we have done 6.2832 pound feet of
work.

Okay. Remember Watt? He said that 33,000 pound feet of work per minute was
equivalent to one horsepower. If we divide the 6.2832 pound feet of work
we've done per revolution of that weight into 33,000 pound feet, we come up
with the fact that one foot pound of torque at 5252 rpm is equal to 33,000
pound feet per minute of work, and is the equivalent of one horsepower. If
we only move that weight at the rate of 2626 rpm, it's the equivalent of
1/2 horsepower (16,500 pound feet per minute), and so on.
Therefore, the following formula applies for calculating horsepower from a
torque measurement:

Horsepower = torque * rpm/5252

This is not a debatable item. It's the way it's done. Period.
The Case for Torque
Now, what does all this mean in car land?
First of all, from a driver's perspective, torque, to use the vernacular,
RULES. Any given car, in any given gear, will accelerate at a rate that
exactly matches its torque curve (allowing for increased air and rolling
resistance as speeds climb). Another way of saying this is that a car will
accelerate hardest at its torque peak in any given gear, and will not
accelerate as hard below that peak, or above it. Torque is the only thing
that a driver feels, and horsepower is just sort of an esoteric measurement
in that context. 300 pound feet of torque will accelerate you just as hard
at 2000 rpm as it would if you were making that torque at 4000 rpm in the
same gear, yet, per the formula, the horsepower would be *double* at 4000
rpm. Therefore, horsepower isn't particularly meaningful from a driver's
perspective, and the two numbers only get friendly at 5252 rpm, where
horsepower and torque always come out the same.
In contrast to a torque curve (and the matching push back into your seat),
horsepower rises rapidly with rpm, especially when torque values are also
climbing. Horsepower will continue to climb, however, until well past the
torque peak, and will continue to rise as engine speed climbs, until the
torque curve really begins to plummet, faster than engine rpm is rising.
However, as I said, horsepower has nothing to do with what a driver feels.

You don't believe all this?

Fine. Take your non-turbo car (turbo lag muddles the results) to its torque
peak in first gear, and punch it. Notice the belt in the back? Now take it
to the power peak, and punch it. Notice that the belt in the back is a bit
weaker? Okay. Now that we're all on the same wavelength (and I hope you
didn't get a ticket or anything), we can go on.
The Case for Horsepower
So if torque is so all-fired important (and feels so good), why do we care
about horsepower?
Because (to quote a friend), "It’s better to make torque at high rpm than
at low rpm, because you can take advantage of gearing.”
For an extreme example of this, I'll leave car land for a moment, and
describe a waterwheel I got to watch a while ago. This was a pretty massive
wheel (built a couple of hundred years ago), rotating lazily on a shaft
that was connected to the works inside a flour mill. Working some things
out from what the people in the mill said, I was able to determine that the
wheel typically generated about 2600(!) pound feet of torque. I had clocked
its speed, and determined that it was rotating at about 12 rpm. If we
hooked that wheel to, say, the drive wheels of a car, that car would go
from zero to twelve rpm in a flash, and the waterwheel would hardly notice.
On the other hand, twelve rpm of the drive wheels is around one mile per
hour for the average car, and, in order to go faster, we'd need to gear it
up. If you remember your junior high school science class and the topic of
simple machines, you'll remember that to gear something up or down gives
you linear increases in speed with linear decreases in force, or vice
versa. To get to 60 miles per hour would require gearing the output from
the wheel up by 60 times, enough so that it would be effectively making a
little over 43 pound feet of torque at the output (one sixtieth of the
wheel's direct torque). This is not only a relatively small amount; it's
less than what the average car needs in order to actually get to 60.
Applying the conversion formula gives us the facts on this. Twelve times
twenty six hundred, over five thousand two hundred fifty two gives us:

6 HP.

OOPS. Now we see the rest of the story. While it's clearly true that the
water wheel can exert a bunch of force, its power (ability to do work over
time) is severely limited.
At the Drag Strip
Now back to car land, and some examples of how horsepower makes a major
difference in how fast a car can accelerate, in spite of what torque on
your backside tells you.
A very good example would be to compare the LT-1 Corvette (built from 1992
through 1996) with the last of the L98 Vettes, built in 1991. Figures as
follows:

Engine ..Peak HP @ RPM ....Peak Torque @ RPM
--------- ----------------------- -----------------------------
L98 ......250 @ 4000 ..............340 @ 3200
LT-1 .....300 @ 5000 ..............340 @ 3600

The cars are essentially identical (drive trains, tires, etc.) except for
the engine change, so it's an excellent comparison.
From a driver’s perspective, each car will push you back in the seat (the
fun factor) with the same authority - at least at or near peak torque in
each gear. One will tend to feel about as fast as the other to the driver,
but the LT-1 will actually be significantly faster than the L98, even
though it won't pull any harder. If we mess about with the formula, we can
begin to discover exactly why the LT-1 is faster. Here's another slice at
that torque and horsepower calculation:

Torque = (Horsepower * 5252) / RPM

Plugging some numbers in, we can see that the L98 is making 328 pound feet
of torque at its power peak (250 hp @ 4000). We can also infer that it
cannot be making any more than 263 pound feet of torque at 5000 rpm, or it
would be making more than 250 hp at that engine speed, and would be so
rated. In actuality, the L98 is probably making no more than around 210
pound feet or so at 5000 rpm, and anybody who owns one would shift it at
around 46-4700 rpm, because more torque is available at the drive wheels in
the next gear at that point. On the other hand, the LT-1 is fairly happy
making 315 pound feet at 5000 rpm (300 hp times 5252, over 5000), and is
happy right up to its mid 5s red line.
So, in a drag race, the cars would launch more or less together. The L98
might have a slight advantage due to its peak torque occurring a little
earlier in the rev range, but that is debatable, since the LT-1 has a
wider, flatter curve (again pretty much by definition, looking at the
figures). From somewhere in the mid-range and up, however, the LT-1 would
begin to pull away. Where the L98 has to shift to second (and give up some
torque multiplication for speed, a la the waterwheel), the LT-1 still has
around another 1000 rpm to go in first, and thus begins to widen its lead,
more and more as the speeds climb. As long as the revs are high, the LT-1,
by definition, has an advantage.
There are numerous examples of this phenomenon. The Integra GS-R, for
instance, is faster than the garden variety Integra, not because it pulls
particularly harder (it doesn't), but because it pulls longer. It doesn't
feel particularly faster, but it is.

A final example of this requires your imagination. Figure that we can tweak
an LT-1 engine so that it still makes peak torque of 340 pound feet at 3600
rpm, but, instead of the curve dropping off to 315 pound feet at 5000, we
extend the torque curve so much that it doesn't fall off to 315 pound feet
until 15000 rpm. Okay, so we'd need to have virtually all the moving parts
made out of unobtanium, and some sort of turbo charging on demand that
would make enough high-rpm boost to keep the curve from falling, but hey,
bear with me.
If you raced a stock LT-1 with this car, they would launch together, but,
somewhere around the 60-foot point, the stocker would begin to fade, and
would have to grab second gear shortly thereafter. Not long after that,
you'd see in your mirror that the stocker has grabbed third, and not too
long after that, it would get fourth, but you wouldn't be able to see that
due to the distance between you as you crossed the line, still in first
gear, and pulling like crazy.

I've got a computer simulation that models an LT-1 Vette in a quarter mile
pass, and it predicts a 13.38 second ET, at 104.5 mph. That's pretty close
(actually a bit conservative) to what a stock LT-1 can do at 100% air
density at a high traction drag strip, being power shifted. However, our
modified car, while belting the driver in the back no harder than the
stocker (at peak torque) does an 11.96, at 135.1 mph - all in first gear,
naturally. It doesn't pull any harder, but it sure as heck pulls longer.
It's also making 900 hp, at 15,000 rpm.
Of course, looking at top speeds, it's a simpler story…

At the Bonneville Salt Flats
Looking at top speed, horsepower wins again, in the sense that making more
torque at high rpm means you can use a stiffer gear for any given car
speed, and have more effective torque (and thus more thrust) at the drive
wheels.
Finally, operating at the power peak means you are doing the absolute best
you can at any given car speed, measuring torque at the drive wheels. I
know I said that acceleration follows the torque curve in any given gear,
but if you factor in gearing vs. car speed, the power peak is it. I’ll use
a BMW example to illustrate this:
At the 4250 rpm torque peak, a 3-liter E36 M3 is doing about 57 mph in
third gear, and, as mentioned previously, it will pull the hardest in that
gear at that speed when you floor it, discounting wind and rolling
resistance. In point of fact (and ignoring both drive train power losses
and rotational inertia), the rear wheels are getting 1177 pound feet of
torque thrown at them at 57 mph (225 pound feet, times the third gear ratio
of 1.66:1, times the final drive ratio of 3.15:1), so the car will bang you
back very nicely at that point, thank you very much.
However, if you were to re-gear the car so that it is at its power peak at
57 mph, you'd have to change the final drive ratio to approximately 4.45:1.
With that final drive ratio installed, you'd be at 6000 rpm in third gear,
where the engine is making 240 hp. Going back to our trusty formula, you
can ascertain that the engine is down to 210 pound feet of torque at that
point (240 times 5252, divided by 6000). However, doing the arithmetic (210
pound feet, times 1.66, times 4.45), you can see that you are now getting
1551 pound feet of torque at the rear wheels, making for a nearly 32% more
satisfying belt in the back.
Any other rpm (other than the power peak) at a given car speed will net you
a lower torque value at the drive wheels. This would be true of any car on
the planet, so, you get the best possible acceleration at any given speed
when the engine is at its power peak, and, theoretical "best" top speed
will always occur when a given vehicle is operating at its power peak.

Force, Work and Time
At this point, if you’re getting the picture that work over time is
synonymous with speed, and as speed increases, so does the need for power,
you’ve got it.
Think about this. Early on, we made the point that 300 pound feet of torque
at 2000 rpm will belt the driver in the back just as hard as 300 pound feet
at 4000 rpm in the same gear - yet horsepower will be double at 4000. Now
we need to look at it the other way: You NEED double the horsepower if you
want to be belted in the back just as hard at twice the speed. As soon as
you factor speed into the equation, horsepower is the thing we need to use
as a measurement. It’s a direct measure of the work being done, as opposed
to a direct measure of force. Torque determines the belt in the back
capability, and horsepower determines the speed at which you can enjoy that
capability. Do you want to be belted in the back when you step on the loud
pedal from a dead stop? That’s torque. The water wheel will deliver that,
in spades. Do you want to be belted in the back in fourth gear at 100 down
the pit straight at Watkins Glen? You need horsepower. In fact, ignoring
wind and rolling resistance, you’ll need exactly 100 times the horsepower
if you want to be belted in the back just as hard at 100 miles per hour as
that water wheel belted you up to one mile per hour.
Of course, speed isn’t everything. Horsepower can be fun at antique
velocities, as well...

"Modernizing" The 18th Century
Okay. For the final-final point (Really. I Promise.), what if we ditched
that water wheel, and bolted a 3 liter E36 M3 engine in its place? Now, no
3-liter BMW is going to be making over 2600 pound feet of torque (except
possibly for a single, glorious instant, running on nitromethane). However,
assuming we needed 12 rpm for an input to the mill, we could run the BMW
engine at 6000 rpm (where it's making 210 pound feet of torque), and gear
it down to a 12 rpm output, using a 500:1 gear set. Result? We'd have
*105,000* pound feet of torque to play with. We could probably twist the
entire flour mill around the input shaft, if we needed to.

The Only Thing You Really Need to Know
For any given level of torque, making it at a higher rpm means you increase
horsepower - and now we all know just exactly what that means, don't we?
Repeat after me: "It’s better to make torque at high rpm than at low rpm,
because you can take advantage of gearing."
 
Originally posted by SaleenASL
if you applied 1 Newton of force to a 1 foot long wrench, you would be applying 1 foot-lb of torque.

The units got you, ASL! One Newton at one foot wound give you a resulting unit of Newton-feet, whatever those are... More common would be lb-feet, or Newton-Meters for smart countries who use the metric system... :D ;)
 
yah, my fault...

i was thinking of the physics equation Torque=Force x Distance.

and in physics u usually use Newton x Meter....and i was thinking of lb-ft....and i got them mixed together.
 
Auto math hand book

Motor Vehicle Performance Formulae

These are basic formulae from many sources collected over the years. Many have been improved with additional variables and used in the PS:Calc and PS:Calc Pro software. See the KEY at bottom.

ENGINE SIZE
CI = (bore/2)^2 * PI * stroke * cylinders

AIRFLOW
VE = CFM / (CI * RPM / 3456)
VE = Actual CFM / Calculated CFM * 100

CFM = CI / 3464 * VE * RPM * (1.2 single_plane intake OR 1.33 dual_plane)
Or if supercharged...
boost = (25.58 * BlowerCI * DriveRatio / CI) - 14.7
CFM = (CI * RPM / 3456) * (boost / 14.7 + 1)

HORSEPOWER
BHP = atmos_pres * CR * VE * CI / 5252 * RPM / 150.8
example
BHP = 14.7 * 8.5 * .8 * 355 / 5252 * 5000 / 150.8 = 224

BHP = CI * MEP * RPM / 792000
MEP = (BHP * 792000) / (RPM * CI)
or
BHP = (PLAN) / 33000
where P=MEP, L=stroke('), A=Piston area("^2), N=RPM*cyl/2 (4 cycle)

BHP loss for increase in altitude
BHP_Loss = altitude (thousands of feet) * .03 * BHP * -1

HP required for MPH in Quarter mile
HP_Req = ((.00426 * mph)^3) * weight

HP required for MPH (Aerodynamic loss)
HP_req = .0015 * CD * FA * (MPH^2)

GEARING
Tire size to Diameter conversion
tire_Diameter = Width (mm) * sidewall Height (%) / 25.4 * 2 + wheel_Diameter
Example: P205/60R15
205 * .60 / 25.4 * 2 + 15 = 24.685

MPH = tire_Diameter / 336 * rpm / gear_ratio
RPM = 336 * gear_ratio * mph / tire_Diameter
gear_ratio = tire_Diameter * rpm / 336 / mph

1/4 Mile ET / 1.54 = 1/8 Mile ET
Example: 14 / 1.54 = 9.09


KEY:


atmos_pres = Atmospheric Pressure in Pounds per Square Inch
BHP = Brake Horse Power (at flywheel)
CD = Coefficient of Drag
CFM = Cubic Feet per Minute
CI = Cubic Inch
ET = Elapsed Time (Acceleration)
FA = Frontal Area of vehicle in square feet
HP = Horse Power (Net - at wheel)
MEP = Mean Effective Pressure
PI = ~3.14159265
RPM = Revolutions Per Minute
VE = Volumetric Efficiency


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
ooh

ahhh

Handy Formulas:
Water Weight = Pounds = Gallons x 8.3453
Liters = Gallons x 3.785
Gallons = Liters x .2642
bar = psi x .068
psi = bar x 14.7
psi = 4000 x (gpm / nozzle #)
gpm = Nozzle # / (psi / 4000)
psi = In. HG x .4912
In HG = In H2O x .8226
Cubic Inches = Gallons x 231
 

Attachments

  • compute velocity.zip
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optimum correlated stuff
 

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  • engine output calculations by javascript.zip
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Wow. It's, like, all numbers...and, uh...let-ters. No wonder I fell asleep in physics. ;)

Seriously, that's cool stuff. It's all familiar, but I sure as heck couldn't purge it all at once like that. :D
 
Nice thread, should be made into a sticky.
What do you think??
Its full of information that even I didnt know and am glad I came across this thread.

Nice going guys, this is why you make the Planet the best. :D

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[lrmarquee]Misnblu < < < < < < < <[/lrmarquee]
 
man this stuff is really helpful. all i remember is torque is pulling power so the more torque the less strain on the engine i guess.
this is helpful cause i'm taking autoshop and my teacher isn't all that helpful
 
Yup, this kind of information is very good and gives all a chance to understand the physics of cars. ;)
Thanks to all that contributed to this thread. :)
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[lrmarquee]Misnblu < < < < < < < <[/lrmarquee]
 
Curb weight generally refers to the weight of a car without a driver. I do not know for sure how it is measured or how curb comes in. My guss is that there is some kind of weight machine which is reminiscent of a sidewalk that is used.
 
And I have never heard of torque ratio.

All speculation, I am sure Hooligan will correct me.

[speculate]You want torque wherever it's best for your intention, but ideally you want broad band of it. A truck hauling objects wants it powerful in low rpms, a race car want it available where it will be effective acceleration wise. Now, if you have 5 gears and have set the all up for the various turns and straights and all are set to have the after shift rpm be where good torque is made, you are set, but if one is off you will have a weak point, so the hope is that the torque band can cover the varying rpm after shift points, setting the car to just have after shift points where the torque is may result in having to do a bad final drive ratio to get the necessary top speed. Well, there are varios things, but I believe you generally want torque high on fast courses and low on slow courses, depending on car.[/speculate]
 
Originally posted by Talentless
And I have never heard of torque ratio.

Torque ratio has to do with the gearbox: the amount from the crankshaft to the amount from driveshaft. The lower the gear, the higher the torque ratio, and vice-versa. For example, the current M3's 1st gear has a gear ratio of 4.23:1 (crankshaft:driveshaft). In simplistic terms -- assuming no other moving parts or loss -- this means that the crankshaft spins 4.23 times while the output shaft spins once. So when the engine itself spins at 4900 rpm, the output shaft spins around 1158 rpm. However, like a low gear in a bicycle, it's much easier to get the wheels turning, and you can accelerate faster. The equivalent torque increase (again, assuming an ideal situation) is multiplied by 4.23. Let's say the M3 engine is outputting 269 lb-ft at 4900 rpm, then the driveshaft's force is about 1,137 lb-ft. (269 * 4.23 = 1,137) There's momentum losses in the weight of the moving parts, but that's a heck of a lot of force to get the car moving...and you're sure to feel it.

Going the other way, the M3's 6th gear is 0.83:1. At that same 4900 rpm, the driveshaft is going at about 5903 rpm. Great for hitting the 155 MPH speed limiter, but you can't start the car from park in 6th. Going back to the 269 lb-ft @ 4900 rpm, the torque is actually down by 17%: 269 * 0.83 = 223 lb-ft. That sounds like a lot, if you want to get a 3500 lb car moving in a hurry, you want more than that. The way to do that is gearing...which results in torque multiplcation...of which is created a torque ratio.

The torque ratio is basically the gear ratio. Multiply the torque by the current gear ratio and you get the equivalent torque at the driveshaft (assuming the usual assumptions...). Note: This does not take into account the final drive ratio. To determine actual output sent to the wheels multiply the above results by the final drive ratio (E46 M3's FDR is 3.62:1):

1st gear: 1,137 * 3.62 = 4,116 lb-ft
6th gear: 223 * 3.62 = 807 lb-ft

<edit>
All this, however, has no effect on HP at the wheels. Why? It's because horsepower is measured as force in motion, as determined by rotational speed -- the RPM. Torque is measured as force at an instant in time. The end result is that the HP curve remains the same at the flywheel as it does at the wheels.

1st Gear (@4900 RPM):
equivalent flywheel HP = 269 * (4900/5252) = 269 * .93 = 250 HP
RPM @ wheels = 4900 / (3.62 * 4.23) = 4900 / 15.3126 = 320 RPM
torque @ wheels = 4,116 lb-ft
HP @ wheels = 4,116 * (320 / 5252) = 4,116 * .0609 = 250 HP

You can do this with any gear, at any engine RPM. The HP curve at the wheels is identical to the curve at the flywheel. This is why, with 4,116 lb-ft in 1st gear, the M3 doesn't launch itself off the planet. It's just that the wheels are spinning much slower. This is why a high-revving, high-HP engine with short gears (Honda B18C) can perform similarly to a low-revving, high-torque, tall-geared V8 (Ford V8).
</edit>

All speculation, I am sure Hooligan will correct me.

Who -- ME?? :D

[speculate]You want torque wherever it's best for your intention, but ideally you want broad band of it. A truck hauling objects wants it powerful in low rpms, a race car want it available where it will be effective acceleration wise. Now, if you have 5 gears and have set the all up for the various turns and straights and all are set to have the after shift rpm be where good torque is made, you are set, but if one is off you will have a weak point, so the hope is that the torque band can cover the varying rpm after shift points, setting the car to just have after shift points where the torque is may result in having to do a bad final drive ratio to get the necessary top speed. Well, there are varios things, but I believe you generally want torque high on fast courses and low on slow courses, depending on car.[/speculate]

I don't see anything to correct there. :) Broad torque curves are best (IMO) for any situation, but they're not easy to accomplish. Generally, like Talentless wrote, you end up with low-end or high-end torque. It's just the way combustion engines work. It takes some really techniques (i-VTEC, TwinPort, VavleTronic) or a really well-built turbo (Audi/VAG) to break with "tradition".

Setting the gear ratios can also be difficult. You must first know your torque curve (and application for that curve) to determine where and when you want your shift points. The way to determine the shift point is to find the best balance.

This article:
http://integra.vtec.net/geeser/shift_points.html
explains it rather well. You want to match the torque at each shift. For example, if at the end of 1st gear you're at 150 lb-ft, you want the engine to output 150 lb-ft when you enter 2nd gear.

For reference:

0206tur_galant06.jpg


(The torque curve is the higher peak.) Imagine a horizontal line across the torque curve. This line will touch two points on the curve: one at a higher rpm, one lower.

Pick an arbitrary (but reasonable) torque level: 310 lb-ft. The curve meets 310 at 5000 rpm and 3100 rpm. Let's say you run this engine to 5000 rpm when you change gears. If the gearing is what you think, the engine will reduce down to 3100 rpm. If not, if the engine is at some other RPM, perhaps you chose the wrong shift point (that is, the gearing is not what you thought it'd be).

Perhaps the gearing is taller: run the engine to 6000 rpm (~250 lb-ft), shift, and the corresponding (torque-matching) engine speed is at 2700 rpm (again, ~250 lb-ft). If, when you shift, the engine does indeed spin down to 2700 rpm, then you have found your shift point. Fastest acceleration will be if you change each gear at whichever turns out to be the ideal shift point -- in our case, 6000 rpm.

Of course, should you know the gear ratios, you can calculate all this in advance and save yourself some time. I just don't know those calculations. :shrug:

Should this be a custom build, you can probably set up the engine to shape the torque curve to your liking, and then set the gear ratios to match the curve for ideal shifting. Kinda like keeping a dozen or so things in your head at once, eh? ;)

Ask a simple answer....
 
Originally posted by alexy2k
Hi there, just wondering if anyone could explain a few things to me, I understand BHP, grip, downforce and most general racing physics principals :magnify:, but need a few things explained:

-Torque :burnout: I understand it's the theory of putting your engine power on to the tarmac, but what do the torque ratios mean? Also how would you identify that a car has good torque compared to another? :confused:
Well, torque is that which produces torsion or rotation to get the car to move. Eg, the pistons power the crankshaft, which goes to the clutch, which goes to gearbox, which powers the tailshaft/s, which goes to the differential, which turns the tyres.

-Power to Weight Ratio?
How is this worked out? What is and ideal Power to weight ration? :D
Power to weight ratio, it, as I see it, the power of your engine to the weight of the car, thus a 350 Chev in a Midget II would just about blow the whole thing apart (literally). A good power-to-weight ratio would be a Chev LS1 in a Corvette, get what I'm saying?

-Curb Weight, don't know even the basic concept, anyone explain?
I thinkthis is the weight of your car when it is on the road, I'm probably wrong.

Thanks a lot for your time and typing :computer: AlexY2K :cheers:
 
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