I've been looking at the tunes posted here and elsewhere, and I noticed that alot of the tunes are different in terms of equipped parts. Are the tunes for a certain event, or are the parts that are selected merely preference? How do I go about choosing the right parts, such as suspensions, trannies, turbos, etc...? Are there any benefits to using one of the other trannies instead of opting for the fully-customizeable one? I'm just curious, but perhaps I'll learn another thing or two lol.
Choosing the appropriate/best parts for tuning
- Thread starter rojovo74
- 28 comments
- 1,580 views
- 3,867
- Saltash
- Dolhaus
The 5/6 speed transmissions are better than stock but no where near as versatile as a fully customisable. This is due to their fixed nature, they only have one potential ratio and a set top speed. A fully customisable allows you to adjust your gearing to the track you are at and therefore make the car potentially faster. Same story with suspension, the hard/soft suspension may suit certain tracks or even corners at certain tracks but a fully customisable setup allows you to find the fastest possible setup for any track you drive on. The general idea is that the fixed setting upgrades give you a cheap alternative if you don't want/need to do a full setup.
As for power upgrades, a lot of it comes down to what fits nearest to the PP level, there are things to be said for the way certain tuning methods affect the power band of a car, but it is barely noticeable for the most part.
Basic idea is that if you only need a small advantage to win a certain event, use the cheaper fixed suspension/gearing upgrades. (No point spending 40K if the event only returns 20k)
If it is a car you want to use regularly and need to be adaptable to the different tracks/situations, use the customisable upgrades
I think that covers most of it, hope it was the answer you were looking for
As for power upgrades, a lot of it comes down to what fits nearest to the PP level, there are things to be said for the way certain tuning methods affect the power band of a car, but it is barely noticeable for the most part.
Basic idea is that if you only need a small advantage to win a certain event, use the cheaper fixed suspension/gearing upgrades. (No point spending 40K if the event only returns 20k)
If it is a car you want to use regularly and need to be adaptable to the different tracks/situations, use the customisable upgrades
I think that covers most of it, hope it was the answer you were looking for
Actually, that does clarify some things, but I probably mentioned the wrong parts...the parts I tend to notice that changes from tune to tune are the exhaust, clutch, and turbo/supercharger. I also see different weight reduction setups. This why I was asking about equipping certain parts. And thanks for the help nonetheless.
- 672
- Fort Worth, TX
- imtolegittoquit
those things are pretty much personal preference or track specific settings. if you like tskuba or autumn ring for example, you'll want lightness over power. I personally like to find a car near the PP level that I'm am trying to attain and reduce weight. Typically a slower car with tons more power to get to 600 pp is going to be a lot harder to handle than a car that comes factory at 580pp and loses a few pounds.
Ah, okay...geez, now I gotta remember for sorter tracks, lower weight is better than more power...I'm learning stuff from all sorts of folks lol.
- 3,867
- Saltash
- Dolhaus
Exhaust = No real difference apart from power/noise
Clutch = I tend to use twin plate on cars below 600bhp, triple plate above that point, I'm really not sure if it makes any difference though
Turbos tend to change the powerband of a car, Low rpm = more power at low revs making the car potentially better through low speed sections provided the tires/suspension can keep grip, Mid rpm = mid range power increase making it the best of both worlds, High rpm = Better for high speed cars due to the power being at the top of the rev range aiding high speed acceleration (can also lead to turbo lag) SuperCharger = Due to this working in a different way to a turbo, it basically gives a more predictable and less peaky power delivery throughout the rev range but potential less peak power.
Weight settings are down to track preference as stated above, you can also move the centre of gravity (weight balance) to change the handling characteristics (Front end heavy = understeer Rear end heavy = oversteer)
- 4,803
- Dearborn, MI
- MotorCtyHamilton
This is from my tuning guide:
Adding parts – I don’t build very many maxed out tunes. Most of the racing that I do has a set PP level and tire selection so this is how I decide what to add.
Weight
I start with considering the car’s weight. I will admit that I have not done extensive testing in GT6 yet around weight, but so far the theories from GT5 seem to be working. I do not have definitive rules on when to drop weight vs. add power. I would say that my method has much gray area. I try to get into a weight range and then move to power. Weight is always thought about first. When I can get a car into the weight ranges listed below, my lap times are always faster than going only with power. This is what I look for:
- Heavy cars need weight reduction to get them between 1400 and 1450kg
- I prefer average cars that are between 1200 and 1250kg
- Lighter cars in stock form do not always need weight reductions, but 1000kg seems to be the magic number
Power
There are some significant changes to the PP and HP gains in GT6 that are making parts selection much more complicated. In GT5 there were some clear winners (low PP gain vs. high HP gain). In GT5 on almost every car, the first power part that I would add is the racing exhaust. Next were exhaust manifold, intake manifold, air filters and ECU, all being really equal on PP/HP efficiency. The least efficient items in GT5 were the catalytic converter, turbo and supercharger. On almost every car that I tested in GT5, this order was really consistent. Not so in GT6. For comparison, I built ten different cars from FF Ford Focus ST to FR BRZ S’12 to MR NSX R to Honda S2000 to Ford GT to Ferrari FXX to Mustang Boss 302, etc. and every single one had a different list of parts that were most efficient PP/HP. In GT6, racing exhaust no longer won hands down and catalytic converter moves from the junk pile to the most efficient part on most cars.
So how do I choose? Below are two examples of popular cars in the GT series. I have listed all of the weight and power parts and their effect on PP and weight/HP. Note that these are done without oil change for the reasons mentioned earlier in this tuning guide. Most of the columns are self-explanatory. The one that may be confusing is “Gain/PP.” For weight reduction parts I have listed weight loss divided by pp gain. All three stages of weight reduction seem to have the same efficiency value per car (18kg per 1pp for the M3). When you scroll down to the power parts under “Gain/PP,” it gets much more interesting. This formula is horsepower gained divided by PP gained. A higher number is more desirable, more efficient. In the column next to the power part gain/pp I have listed a rank based on this efficiency. Below are results for the M3 Coupe '07 @ 525PP and Ford GT ’06 @600PP.
Choosing Parts and Why - M3 Coupe '07 @ 525PP
1. Window weight reduction and carbon hood. It only cost 1PP for both. I will be adding this to every car I tune in GT6 from here forward.
2. Weight reduction stage 3. This car is just too heavy. Stage 3 takes it down to 1340kg and combined with window and carbon hood the car will now be all the way down to 1325. I will probably add ballast and run this car at 1400kg. Ballast will allow me to play with the front/rear balance during tuning.
3. Sports Catalytic Converter. The winning power part, hands down with 3.25 hp per 1 pp.
4. Engine Tuning Stage 3.
5. Semi-Racing Exhaust.
6. Power Limiter 98.2%.
Build is now at 525PP and 491HP.
Choosing Parts and Why – Ford GT ’06 @ 600PP
1. Window weight reduction and carbon hood. It only cost 1PP for both. I will be adding this to every car I tune in GT6 from here forward.
2. Weight reduction stage 3. This car likes around 1200kg. Stage 3 takes it down to 1204kg and combined with window and carbon hood the car will now be all the way down to 1189. I will add ballast instead of using the power limiter. I want to run this car somewhere between 1200 and 1250kg. Ballast will allow me to play with the front/rear balance during tuning.
3. Sports Catalytic Converter. The winning power part, hands down with 4.25 hp per 1pp.
4. Racing Exhaust at 4.0 hp per 1 pp.
5. Isometric Exhaust Manifold at 4.0 hp per 1 pp.
6. Ballast at 24kg.
Build is now at 600pp and 628hp.
The rest of my guide can be found in the links in my signature below. Hope this helps some.
Adding parts – I don’t build very many maxed out tunes. Most of the racing that I do has a set PP level and tire selection so this is how I decide what to add.
Weight
I start with considering the car’s weight. I will admit that I have not done extensive testing in GT6 yet around weight, but so far the theories from GT5 seem to be working. I do not have definitive rules on when to drop weight vs. add power. I would say that my method has much gray area. I try to get into a weight range and then move to power. Weight is always thought about first. When I can get a car into the weight ranges listed below, my lap times are always faster than going only with power. This is what I look for:
- Heavy cars need weight reduction to get them between 1400 and 1450kg
- I prefer average cars that are between 1200 and 1250kg
- Lighter cars in stock form do not always need weight reductions, but 1000kg seems to be the magic number
Power
There are some significant changes to the PP and HP gains in GT6 that are making parts selection much more complicated. In GT5 there were some clear winners (low PP gain vs. high HP gain). In GT5 on almost every car, the first power part that I would add is the racing exhaust. Next were exhaust manifold, intake manifold, air filters and ECU, all being really equal on PP/HP efficiency. The least efficient items in GT5 were the catalytic converter, turbo and supercharger. On almost every car that I tested in GT5, this order was really consistent. Not so in GT6. For comparison, I built ten different cars from FF Ford Focus ST to FR BRZ S’12 to MR NSX R to Honda S2000 to Ford GT to Ferrari FXX to Mustang Boss 302, etc. and every single one had a different list of parts that were most efficient PP/HP. In GT6, racing exhaust no longer won hands down and catalytic converter moves from the junk pile to the most efficient part on most cars.
So how do I choose? Below are two examples of popular cars in the GT series. I have listed all of the weight and power parts and their effect on PP and weight/HP. Note that these are done without oil change for the reasons mentioned earlier in this tuning guide. Most of the columns are self-explanatory. The one that may be confusing is “Gain/PP.” For weight reduction parts I have listed weight loss divided by pp gain. All three stages of weight reduction seem to have the same efficiency value per car (18kg per 1pp for the M3). When you scroll down to the power parts under “Gain/PP,” it gets much more interesting. This formula is horsepower gained divided by PP gained. A higher number is more desirable, more efficient. In the column next to the power part gain/pp I have listed a rank based on this efficiency. Below are results for the M3 Coupe '07 @ 525PP and Ford GT ’06 @600PP.
Choosing Parts and Why - M3 Coupe '07 @ 525PP
1. Window weight reduction and carbon hood. It only cost 1PP for both. I will be adding this to every car I tune in GT6 from here forward.
2. Weight reduction stage 3. This car is just too heavy. Stage 3 takes it down to 1340kg and combined with window and carbon hood the car will now be all the way down to 1325. I will probably add ballast and run this car at 1400kg. Ballast will allow me to play with the front/rear balance during tuning.
3. Sports Catalytic Converter. The winning power part, hands down with 3.25 hp per 1 pp.
4. Engine Tuning Stage 3.
5. Semi-Racing Exhaust.
6. Power Limiter 98.2%.
Build is now at 525PP and 491HP.
Choosing Parts and Why – Ford GT ’06 @ 600PP
1. Window weight reduction and carbon hood. It only cost 1PP for both. I will be adding this to every car I tune in GT6 from here forward.
2. Weight reduction stage 3. This car likes around 1200kg. Stage 3 takes it down to 1204kg and combined with window and carbon hood the car will now be all the way down to 1189. I will add ballast instead of using the power limiter. I want to run this car somewhere between 1200 and 1250kg. Ballast will allow me to play with the front/rear balance during tuning.
3. Sports Catalytic Converter. The winning power part, hands down with 4.25 hp per 1pp.
4. Racing Exhaust at 4.0 hp per 1 pp.
5. Isometric Exhaust Manifold at 4.0 hp per 1 pp.
6. Ballast at 24kg.
Build is now at 600pp and 628hp.
The rest of my guide can be found in the links in my signature below. Hope this helps some.
- 4,803
- Dearborn, MI
- MotorCtyHamilton
I think I get what he is trying to say. When the full transmission is added, the gear sound seems over power the engine sound. I agree. I think much of the complaining about exhaust sounds in GT6 should really be complaints about the gear sound. In real life, I rode in a race built Porsche 911 and the gear noise was the loudest sound of all, so maybe PD actually got it close to real life?
- 3,867
- Saltash
- Dolhaus
ahh yeah, the tranny whine. Never really noticed it but I think I know what you mean, sounds kind of like a supercharger
What I've been TRYING to do in GT6 is kill 2 birds with one stone...learn how to tune, while at the same time tune cars for the various events/tracks being used in career mode. I'm also wanting to use the best tire grade allowed - in most cases, SH or lower has been the allowed range. I've made it to the IB events so far, so I do have SM-SS tires allowed for some races. I should also mention that my copy of GT6 is still in its original condition (no updates as of yet). This is due to circumstances beyond my control (long story lol).
- 968
- Maine
- VooDooChilde333
Until you get into races that last a long time, mainly Super license events, you will benifit from using the best tire they allow, as they wont wear down, or wont wear down in the time your on the course.
MC stated above, about how he rarely uses maxed out tunes. I havent seen too many maxed ou t tunes work as well that way. Most cars have a sweet spot, where it performs the best, ('69 Camaro likes 550pp even though thats not maxed out) and often its not using every possible upgrade.
going to have to experiment with each car to find out where it is. So unless your going to use the car over and over, I wouldnt waste too much $$ unless you have to.
MC stated above, about how he rarely uses maxed out tunes. I havent seen too many maxed ou t tunes work as well that way. Most cars have a sweet spot, where it performs the best, ('69 Camaro likes 550pp even though thats not maxed out) and often its not using every possible upgrade.
going to have to experiment with each car to find out where it is. So unless your going to use the car over and over, I wouldnt waste too much $$ unless you have to.
Another quick question regarding installation of parts...is there a specific order they should be installed in, or can I just install the parts however I choose? Say I want to do an engine sage 1, sports, computer, intake tuning, semi-racing exhaust, etc...do I need to do the engine stuff before the exhaust/intake stuff?
- 3,131
- IL, USA
- DigitalBaka
- DigitalBaka587
Thanks...I'll have to remember that. I'm currently fiddling with my '01 Golf, and I'm not sure what to do with the final gear ratio. Apparently, Route X is NOT in GT6 (unless it gets added via game updates). I took the car to Sarthe '09 (no chicanes) to take advantage of that monster straight to determine the car's top speed (which in the car's current state is 134 mph). Obviously, this would change if I did an oil change and upgraded the car. My gear ratios are currently :
1st --> 2.501
2nd --> 1.866
3rd --> 1.436
4th --> 1.141
5th --> 0.940
Final -> 3.600 (was 3.684 after making my adjustments and before moving the final gear slider)
I used jdmopar's method to get these figures, but I'm not sure if I got the final gear right. How exactly will I know I have the final gear in the correct spot? If it helps, I use a DS3 and AT with no aids except ABS set to 1. and DL turned on.
- 968
- Maine
- VooDooChilde333
- 968
- Maine
- VooDooChilde333
Dp, lol.
sorry
sorry
Hi guys. I am strugling with setups and tuning cars for the best grip and handling. Are there any general rules or a general setup I can follow for the different type vehicles like ff, awd, fr, mawd, rrd. I want the best grip and handling from a vehicle. I know for every car it might be different espesially depending on your driving style as you refine your setup, but which general rules I can follow for a good start?
I'll apreciate any help
Thanx!
I'll apreciate any help
Thanx!
- 3,867
- Saltash
- Dolhaus
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/general-tuning-guide.297354/ that should cover the basics, theres plenty more around covering the subject more in depth
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