CIEN settings help

New-b here, I've got 25k+ miles on GT3, but just started playing GT-4 last week. Could use a couple pointers here and there, and was hoping you could help out.

I have a CIEN, and set it up in the special condition capri rally costa amalfi race. Figured I might as well get paid to set up the car. The problem is, the car runs only on this track now, its very fast, and fun to drive, but when I take it on other tracks, its simply uncontrollable. The back end is, weird, it whips out like the car is on rims in the back. It comes back if you floor it, but this isnt working. The settings are as follows:

Super soft racing tires.
979 horse power
racing exhaust
stage 3 tuning
brake 1 - 4
spring 15.8 - 14.1
height 115 - 115
bound 4 - 4
rebound 5 - 5
camber 4.0 - 2.0
toe -1 - -2
stabilizers 5 - 5
trans 12
ASM o 0
ASM u 0
TCS 3
Downforce 48 - 45
Initial Torque 12
Acceleration 10
Deceleration 20
 
The car itself is bloody dreadful IMO, that's part of the problem. Amalfi is useful to tune on but I find it's really only suited to FWD or drift cars. You can't take the tune to a regular track and expect it to perform there; for example I imagine the Cien will **** itself when braking from over 150km/h or so because you don't have to tune that out for the Capri race.

Some of your numbers look a bit odd (though I've never tried to tune this car). On paper it looks too stiff (springs) and too high, and the brake values seem too low and counter-intuitively set to a rear bias. Also, try using the shocks a bit more creatively, they make a huge difference. Many MR cars gain a lot from use of ballast.

Read (and re-read) Scaff's tuning guide and nomis's one (which is on the front page of this sub-forum at the moment), but be aware this is an awful car to tune and drive and a very hard nut to crack.
 
I beg to differ, it is only hard to tune if your Horsepower exceeds 1000 and your still using S3 tires which are at their upper limit above 1000 on this car. Switch to racing tires and its a different story, but ultimately your limited by the total downforce you can have. As for the braking the system used is similar to the Ford GT LM Spec II Race Car or Ford GT series.
 
The car whipping around would likely have a lot to do with your highly rear biased brakes.

Other problems I see are springs that are way too stiff, anti roll bars that are probably too stiff, and front camber is too high. The suspension has virtually no compliance - 15.8 (kg / mm) = 884.759151 pounds/in, an astronomical spring rate-the car might as well be a 3500 pound go kart. The rule of diminishing returns applies here, stiffer isn't always better.

Something I like to do is using replay photomode to get an outside perspective. I can see how much the car rolls, dives, and if the tire is vertical when at maximum cornering load. Even with R5 level grip, I doubt you could see the suspension move with your tune as it is. That won't do you any good unless you're at Tsukuba. Look at real racecars (short of F1), they have more suspension movement than you would expect - ever seen DP's bouncing around at Daytona?

I would also change to lower grip tires to get a basic tune for the car. Using R5's might feel awesome, but doing so masks handling problems that less forgiving tires will expose. Once you've got it feeling pretty good on, say, Racing Hard tires, progressively upgrade to grippier compounds. Same applies with the massive power, it feels great, but masks handling problems, especially when you have to use TCS to control the car. Go back to basics. Besides, R5's are of almost no use in anything but a sprint race or qualifying.

What would I do? Take off every single item you have installed except for the racing suspension. Put on some Racing Hard tires, and tune away on various tracks such as Trial Mountain. See where that takes you. Install only what you need until you are satisfied with how it performs as a whole. Then upgrade.
 
Last edited:
PF
Read (and re-read) Scaff's tuning guide and nomis's one (which is on the front page of this sub-forum at the moment), but be aware this is an awful car to tune and drive and a very hard nut to crack.

I've been looking all over for that thing, but haven't found it yet.
 
I've been looking all over for that thing, but haven't found it yet.

It's actually the very first thread in this subforum. Look here if you're still having trouble. For nomis's guide (also on the front page) click here.

Also remember that MR cars sometimes behave counter-intuitively compared to other drivetrains and sometimes will do the opposite of what they're supposed to.
 
Back