Clubsport or not?

  • Thread starter Rotard12a
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Rotard12a

Rotard12a

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Rotard12a
Have held off for years waiting for the market to have several affordable clutch plus h-gate offerings, and now the time has come to retire my faithful DFP! My research has pointed me toward the GT3 RS wheel, but what I can't decide on is whether or not to get the Clubsport Edish. I've seen all of the feature comparison charts and have looked around the forum, but I haven't really seen an objective "is it worth it?" comparison.

The main thing is, I will be using this exclusively with GT5. From what I've read, the ABS function will not work with GT5. And, I don't give a hoot about colored plates or any silly stuff like that. So that leaves me with this:

Pros:
-ABS (will it ever work with GT5?)
-Contactless sensors (is it that much more reliable?)
-Adjustable brake sensor (what is the main benefit?)
-Adjustable pedal strength (are the standard pedals not set well?)
-Aluminum construction (does anyone ever break their standard pedals?)
-Looks pretty sexy
Cons:
-$140 (44%) more expensive

So, worth the cash for my situation? I want to get at least 4 years out of this purchase.

Clubsport owners ONLY, please.
 
Worth it as opposed to what alternative? Your DFP pedals won't work with the GT3RS so you will at least have to buy the standard S pedals at $50. That makes the clubsports only $90 more.
 
Not a CS owner, but it's only because they don't work with the G25.

The load cell brake is what really makes the Clubsport pedals worthwhile. All the other features are great, but that's the one that puts them on a different tier than the regular pedals or anything Logitech makes.

**edit**
From the review posted by Fanatec...
But most of all, it is the brakes that bring the most joy, you find yourself braking later with much more confidence and control.
Click to expand...
 
I got the Clubsports with my 911 turbo s. They are really great if you can afford them. The ABS works in all games since you set it manually on the wheel, like I have it set to 95% so I know when I'm braking as hard as I can. Otherwise it's quite hard to know if you're fully pressing the brake.

mDvwu.jpg
 
ABS function is essential for adjusting to CSPs. Because braking force is determined by force instead of travel, you absolutely need something to indicate when you are braking with the maximum force...and vibration does just that.
 
sonac
ABS function is essential for adjusting to CSPs. Because braking force is determined by force instead of travel, you absolutely need something to indicate when you are braking with the maximum force...and vibration does just that.
Click to expand...

Actually the ABS function is rather useless for those who are already at a high level of driving. The problem is, the ABS vibration only works based off of a static input force applied to the brake pedal. The problem with this is that in real life and in the game, the cars actual ABS is activated in a variety situations where different forces are applied to the brake pedal, dependent on things like speed (it's easier to lock the brakes up at a lower speed - thus you would need less pedal pressure to threshold brake), steering input, and available surface grip, surface irregularities etc. With that said, the ABS function is only a interference for drivers who are already close to the threshold of the cars grip under braking. Now if they could implement the ABS function so that it would interact with the ABS in the game that would be absolutely awesome...but that's not the case atm.
 
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I completely agree with you. What I meant to say is that you need this vibration function when you are adjusting to Clubsport pedals. Many games don't have a brake force meter like GT5:P does, so you need this vibration to learn, when you have reached 95 or 100% braking, because you don't simply hit end of travel like with G25 pedals.

I hope I am clear enough - don't know how to write it better.
 
Rotard12a
Everybody's talking about the ABS, but from the Fanatec ordering page:

"Please note that the vibration function on the brake is not supported on gaming consoles so far" http://www.fanatec.de/webshop/new_u...id=60&osCsid=bb783b571582d56254632d6dc2e3513a

The reason I started the thread is because of that sentence saying that ABS will not be supported. It's the main selling point of the pedals, so if I can't use ABS, are the pedals worth it???
Click to expand...

Yes, The ABS is not the significant attraction with these Pedals, For me it's the adjustable load cell brake and the contactless Pedals , no more dirty pots! just consistant braking. No blocks of rubber that you cant compress etc.. fully adjustable brake resistance.. How many times do we have to say YES :)

Good Luck

GSL
 
If you feel the main selling point of the pedals is the ABS then don't bother.

If you want better, more precise, more consistent braking, then they are MORE than worth the cost.

gslooney
How many times do we have to say YES
Click to expand...
 
gslooney
How many times do we have to say YES
Click to expand...

Woah there, I just want to make an informed decision. When you're an unpaid intern $100 is a HUGE amount of money. So please, bear with me. Anyway, only 2 Clubsport owners had actually said "yes"...

Cost/benefit ratio obviously is not easy to convey in a forum. I'm a light enthusiast where some of you guys are probably hard-core sim fans, so what's worth it for you might not be worth it for me.

Therefore, let me rephrase the question so as to quantify the benefits:

Lets use a single scale of "realism". We'll say 0% is a non-pressure sensitive NES controller and 100% is the pedal set in your real car. I would rate my DFP pedals somewhere around a 50. So, to owners of either, where would the Standard and Clubsport pedals fall on that scale?

You can see how this would make my decision easier. If the Standard is 60% and the Clubsport is 85%, that's definitely worth the extra cost. If the Standard is 75% and the Clubsport is 85%, I'd probably go with the cheaper pedals.
 
The ABS effect is so weak, that you hardly can feel it, especially if you are wearing shoes. Of course ClubSport Pedals are much better than your DFP but still far from the "real" thing...
 
i almost always turn off the abs. But the pedals are the best there is, and are worth every €.You won't regret buying them, they are miles ahead from g27/25 pedals.
 
:):):)

I totally agree with your comments re the decision. I guess what your really saying is is it worth the extra $100 for someone who's not a hard core sim racer (yet), and may never be one???

So in that respect it's hard for me to position the value for money as that's going to be relative to each of our personal circumstances. I don't know how long it takes you to earn or save the extra $100

Yet your drawn to the GTRS Wheel when the carrera wheel or a DFGT or DFPRO would work!!

Which begs the question Why? What's the cost/benefit in this?

your original point was "So, worth the cash for my situation? I want to get at least 4 years out of this purchase" ... If you did the depreciation on your $100 would be about 7 cents a day. assuming the pedals are worthless after 4 years.

I bought My GTPRO back in the GT4/PS2 Days, it still works I gave it away about a year ago, the pedals are a bit loose but the guy I gave them to is loving it.

I upgraded from the GTPRO to a G25.. It still works.. It's on my other RIG but will be replaced with a GTRS V2 when the upgrade parts For my GTRS arrive from Fanatec. I would say the Brake pedal and accelerator feel on the G25 pedals are at least twice as good as the GTPro's.. I upgraded the brake pedal on the G25 with the rubber mod to improve the feel around the lock-up point.. this further improved the brake pedal feel. In effect I was more able to brake closer to the lock up point than before. The Clubsport upgrade for me was a much harder choice (g25 pedals will work with the wheel via an adapter). I bough from the first batch of CS Pedals and had to dismantle them and replace the oil etc. as fanatec got it wrong (they have a video about this on there site).. I'd say today they are even better in terms of feel than the modified G25 pedals. not just in terms of the brake feeling, but also in terms of the range of travel on the accelerator which I find affords me more precise control over those functions. and finally they are solid, much more heavier than the G25 pedal set.

So Your scale of "We'll say 0% is a non-pressure sensitive NES controller and 100% is the pedal set in your real car. I would rate my DFP pedals somewhere around a 50."

I would rate my DFP pedals as 10, my unmodified G25 as 30 my modified G25 as 45 my Clubsport as 70.

but to be honest you could still enjoy the game with a wheel and pedal set that cost the same as the pedals!!

better pedals do make all the difference regarding progress imho.

I have no experience with the Fanatec standard pedals.. someone else may be able to help with a comparison. I cant imagine they are much better than the standard G25 pedals but i could be wrong! remember they retail for a quarter of the cost of the CS pedals.

When I originally bought my GTRS my plan was to use the G25 pedals.
But when I looked at the difference in price for the CS pedal combo Versus buying the CS pedals later as an upgrade it didn't make sense, I was saving 60 euro's buying them together. So I bit the bullet as I'd seen the difference good pedals can make, and they are by far way better than the G25 Pedals.

My final thought.. assuming you can budget for the $100. What else will you do with the $100 over the next 4 years?
or If the standard pedals are at least twice as good as the GTP pedals why spend the extra $100?

hard decision :)

good luck
GSL.
 
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Well, my decision was made for me: won a grand in a student design competition, ClubSport it is! :D Ordered the set a week ago and it arrived today, such joy!

Couple of Q's

1. My clutch and accelerator almost instantly developed a squeak. What kind of lube should I use to get things quiet again?

2. When powered on the steering wheel unit makes a constant, high-pitched buzzing sound similar to what you'd hear from a transformer, adapter, or inverter. It's not terribly loud, but it is somewhat annoying.

3. In GT5P, despite setting the wheel to PS3 mode (little red dot is indeed on) and pressing triangle at the beginning of the race, I get no clutch whatsoever and it shifts smoothly through all gears. Have tried pressing triangle at just about every separate opportunity you could imagine. All other controls work fine. I inspected the pedals and everything seems to be dandy. Tried setting the date to 11/1/2008 too, as mentioned in the manual. What's the deal?
 
With 2, that's normal and you don't have to worry about it and 3, I don't really know the answer to this question but you don't have to set the PS3's date back. They removed that bug with V2.
 
Rotard12a
Well, my decision was made for me: won a grand in a student design competition, ClubSport it is! :D Ordered the set a week ago and it arrived today, such joy!

Couple of Q's

1. My clutch and accelerator almost instantly developed a squeak. What kind of lube should I use to get things quiet again?

2. When powered on the steering wheel unit makes a constant, high-pitched buzzing sound similar to what you'd hear from a transformer, adapter, or inverter. It's not terribly loud, but it is somewhat annoying.

3. In GT5P, despite setting the wheel to PS3 mode (little red dot is indeed on) and pressing triangle at the beginning of the race, I get no clutch whatsoever and it shifts smoothly through all gears. Have tried pressing triangle at just about every separate opportunity you could imagine. All other controls work fine. I inspected the pedals and everything seems to be dandy. Tried setting the date to 11/1/2008 too, as mentioned in the manual. What's the deal?
Click to expand...

1. I had a similar squeak develop on mine but I found it was simply a case of the springs on the pedals needing to be repositioned, something that I was able to do without need to take anything apart and took seconds, I hope you find the same for yourself.

2. It is the cooling fan, update to firmware 681 and you have the option of having the fan off when you initially turn on the wheel. It will still make the same noise when it eventually comes on (triggered by internal heat level) but you shouldn't notice it much as you will then be too busy driving and enjoying yourself!!

3. I am not sure what is happening there, sorry, but there is definitely no need to change the date if you have the v2.
 
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Hi, most info should be on here:-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54iQktxDQOM&feature=related


Think it tells you what oil to use if required, think normal pushbike/ cycle oil, prob a general oil will be OK ie in UK 3in1 etc. Assuming some will be mineral oil, just keep away from rubber parts, maybe even some plastics(not sure if bushes are plastic or nylon thou ? so ?).
Regards ABS setting, at least on PS3 don't seem to respond to a signal from the game, but you can set it up to indicate when you will get road wheels lock up at your settings or car type etc ie also your potensiometer setting, trial & error etc.


Cheers BOB
 
blacbul67
1. I had a similar squeak develop on mine but I found it was simply a case of the springs on the pedals needing to be repositioned, something that I was able to do without need to take anything apart and took seconds, I hope you find the same for yourself.

2. It is the cooling fan, update to firmware 681 and you have the option of having the fan off when you initially turn on the wheel. It will still make the same noise when it eventually comes on (triggered by internal heat level) but you shouldn't notice it much as you will then be too busy driving and enjoying yourself!!

3. I am not sure what is happening there, sorry, but there is definitely no need to change the date if you have the v2.
Click to expand...

I'll definitely try the update, but for now I did try fiddling with the springs and spring seats and got rid of the squeaks. Thanks for the help!
 

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