- 87
- Texas
I hear there not that reliable but I would love one to drive everyday
Could a rx 7 be a daily driver?
- Thread starter Gumpertapollo12
- 43 comments
- 28,065 views
- 4,213
- Puerto Rico
- motortrend
First off it would be good to know which RX-7 we are talking about. Generally they have little niggles that are normal for cars their age and it is important to have a mechanic with good knowledge of rotary engines. They do drink more fuel usually than a comparable piston engine and people sometimes consider them less reliable. I would personally not daily drive one unless I had a relatively short commute and a second car just in case something goes wrong. Right now I have a friend with a convertible FC which is thinking about changing it because it is not practical, he can't go to some places because the car is low compared to most sedans and of course SUVs plus the car blows some smoke and he needs to be on top of things maintenance wise so nothing goes wrong. My advice to you is to research and give us more info so we can help you with your decision. Hope that helps
ShobThaBob
Premium
- 2,651
- rosooftw
Turbo? Hah.
N/A not bad.
N/A not bad.
- 87
- Texas
It's a 95 fd
- 12,389
- Betelgeuse
- Beeblebrox_237
Yes, probably. You can drive almost anything on a daily basis, it's just that some aren't as easy to drive, comfortable, or expendable enough to make it easy. The RX-7 would probably be fine. Manual transmission?
- 87
- Texas
Yes it's the 5 speed manual
Keef
Premium
- 25,015
- Dayton, OH
- GTP_KeefRacer
- GTP Keef
FDs are usually expensive to buy, and will be expensive to maintain when things go wrong. If the factory sequential twin-turbo system hasn't crapped out yet then it will eventually and unless you've got a couple grand to spend fixing it then that will be that.
It would make a great daily if it were in good shape but if it has powertrain problems then I'd avoid buying it unless you plan to dump some money repairing and replacing things.
It would make a great daily if it were in good shape but if it has powertrain problems then I'd avoid buying it unless you plan to dump some money repairing and replacing things.
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- 87
- Texas
It has about 40k miles on it
- 87
- Texas
I don't know if this helps it has about 40k miles on it
Keef
Premium
- 25,015
- Dayton, OH
- GTP_KeefRacer
- GTP Keef
If it has 40k miles on it then it hasn't even been through its regular dealership maintenance schedule. If you want to keep it nice like a first owner would then it'd be a good idea to have the normal dealer inspections and maintenance done on schedule. That's not cheap. I view FDs as fairly high-end machines worthy of a thorough pre-purchase inspection by Mazda dealership or specialty shop. If you don't take care of it then it'll just be an expensive piece of junk by the time 70k rolls around.
- 87
- Texas
Ok thanks for the info it will help
- 11,802
- Marin County
SA/FB: For sure
FC: ehh
FD: Not a good choice
I would never own an FD without another car as my primary driver. They are just too unreliable stock.
FC: ehh
FD: Not a good choice
I would never own an FD without another car as my primary driver. They are just too unreliable stock.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Strictly speaking, any nice car shouldn't be daily driven.. It just increases unnecessary wear and increases the risk of something nasty happening to it.
Plus the fastest way to make a car less special is to use it every day. If you only use it for fun, then you will enjoy it more.
My 2c.
Plus the fastest way to make a car less special is to use it every day. If you only use it for fun, then you will enjoy it more.
My 2c.
- 2,336
- Los Angeles, CA
- WRBWRXMAX
- Max Archer
You can DD an LS1-swapped FD all the time no problem!
Seriously, though, it's doable but it's not cheap or easy. Rotaries, especially turbo rotaries, have their own quirks, like having to wait to warm and cool the engines, which can make them a pain to DD. The FD in particular needs very careful maintenance, and realistically will need a rebuild every couple years.
Seriously, though, it's doable but it's not cheap or easy. Rotaries, especially turbo rotaries, have their own quirks, like having to wait to warm and cool the engines, which can make them a pain to DD. The FD in particular needs very careful maintenance, and realistically will need a rebuild every couple years.
- 11,802
- Marin County
That's why, when the day comes, my FD will be powered by an N/A 3 rotor. 
- 9,054
- Murica
- BasedAckbar
FD's are that finicky huh?
- 8,168
- Hindmarsh Island
- TDZ-4-12-14-88
- XBOX_is_GAY!!!!
Also when you use a rotary, you have to warm it up so all the seals expand, if you don't then your asking for trouble, I blew up my bathurst) one, it cost a boat load of money to get another motor for it then get it installed, the only reason I sold it was that they aren't child friendly, but other then being a goose and taking off in a barrel of smoke everyday soon took its toll, you really have to be sensible with it for the first half hour of running the engine every time you start it up, other then that they are a fantastic car to own for what ever your intentions of use are, I used mine as an everyday car for 3 years, I used to drive it 70 miles just to get to work everyday, I actually miss it lol
- 200
- Vatican City
My dad has a 87 FC, it is a great DD with 167k miles. Runs just fine.
- 2,143
- The Track
- youngun_great
There reliable if oil changed constantly and warmed up properly. FD would need a rebuild after 60k usually due to compression loss. I'm running an RX8 atm looking for an FD as a fun weekend car due to the risk of being stranded somewhere. And no short journeys either as Rotaries hate small trips, but love the long ones.
- 331
- KUSHifornia
- MaliciousMD
- MaliciousMD
Seems to be a lot of misconceptions about rotaries.
"Rebuild @ 60K" = Myth
If the engine has been properly maintained then there is no reason you shouldn't see 100-120K before a rebuild. Have had plenty of friends with original engines over 100K that still pulse evenly and around 90-100psi.
"Apex seals need heat to expand and seal properly." = Where did this come from? Who knows.
The sealing function of an apex and side seals is done by the seal springs. It's quite common to see 13B and 13B-T builders use the RE and REW corner seals, seal springs, upgrade to 3mm, etc. Most people you see who have idle issues when cold/hot/under load are people who have removed all idle assist equipment on their cars. Things like the BAC and thermowax. Sometimes you see an RX7 start cold and it stays revved up, thats just AWS...
Not that I want to say RX7's are unreliable, but every owner's probably had their 7 on a trailer atleast once. If you're not mechanically inclined I highly suggest not buying any RX7. By mechanically inclined I mean you can properly read a FSM wiring diagram, use a multimeter, etc. Most importantly a FSM vacuum diagram. Lots of patience is also required. If you don't like checking your oil every time you get gas, don't buy an RX7...
Common FD3S Issues:
- Vacuum Leaks/Rats Nest (applies to anything rotary)
- Bose Stereo System (Multiple Issues)
- Anything turbo related is $$$ ($200.00 USD from Mazda last I checked for 13B-REW exhaust manifold gaskets ONLY. Turbo boost solenoids are junk.)
- Vacuum Leaks
- Failure prone electronic OMP
- Rotarys can't use conventional spark plugs without machining to the rotor housing.
- Rotary will always run at a higher EGT than a piston engine.
- Did I mention vacuum leaks yet?
- More prone to completely trash an engine via overheating than a piston engine.
- Cops don't like it when you're exhaust is popping fire like its 4th of July.
- Your neighbors will hate you for having the loudest & stinkiest car on the street.
- Flooding
- Something about more vacuum leaks? YUP!
If doing something like this freaks you out, probably shouldn't buy an RX7....
"Rebuild @ 60K" = Myth
If the engine has been properly maintained then there is no reason you shouldn't see 100-120K before a rebuild. Have had plenty of friends with original engines over 100K that still pulse evenly and around 90-100psi.
"Apex seals need heat to expand and seal properly." = Where did this come from? Who knows.
The sealing function of an apex and side seals is done by the seal springs. It's quite common to see 13B and 13B-T builders use the RE and REW corner seals, seal springs, upgrade to 3mm, etc. Most people you see who have idle issues when cold/hot/under load are people who have removed all idle assist equipment on their cars. Things like the BAC and thermowax. Sometimes you see an RX7 start cold and it stays revved up, thats just AWS...
Not that I want to say RX7's are unreliable, but every owner's probably had their 7 on a trailer atleast once. If you're not mechanically inclined I highly suggest not buying any RX7. By mechanically inclined I mean you can properly read a FSM wiring diagram, use a multimeter, etc. Most importantly a FSM vacuum diagram. Lots of patience is also required. If you don't like checking your oil every time you get gas, don't buy an RX7...
Common FD3S Issues:
- Vacuum Leaks/Rats Nest (applies to anything rotary)
- Bose Stereo System (Multiple Issues)
- Anything turbo related is $$$ ($200.00 USD from Mazda last I checked for 13B-REW exhaust manifold gaskets ONLY. Turbo boost solenoids are junk.)
- Vacuum Leaks
- Failure prone electronic OMP
- Rotarys can't use conventional spark plugs without machining to the rotor housing.
- Rotary will always run at a higher EGT than a piston engine.
- Did I mention vacuum leaks yet?
- More prone to completely trash an engine via overheating than a piston engine.
- Cops don't like it when you're exhaust is popping fire like its 4th of July.
- Your neighbors will hate you for having the loudest & stinkiest car on the street.
- Flooding
- Something about more vacuum leaks? YUP!
If doing something like this freaks you out, probably shouldn't buy an RX7....
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- 2,143
- The Track
- youngun_great
Well i ment 60k miles, 100k kilometers seems about right too. Alot of my mates track there FDs but they service every 6 months minimum. After 70,000 miles, they can lose a bit of compression but that is a sign to get it rebuilt. FCs are different due to the none turbo factor but still need high maintenance (but an excuse to port it for more power).
The rotary does have a lifespan of half a piston but could be a quarter if not looked after. But rebuilds do need basically everything replaced (experiance). Lose of power means lose of compression and the ony way to get it back is rebuild unfortunately.
Gonna hate it when mine goes but 3 rotor turbo is my aim!
- 331
- KUSHifornia
- MaliciousMD
- MaliciousMD
Youngun
When I say 100-120K I mean 100,000-120,000 miles for a street car that isn't heavily abused and well maintained.
FC no turbo? Forgetting TII's? I must own the one fluke turbo FC then? LOL!
As for rebuilds, pretty much all the small hard parts/seals/gaskets would be replaced yes. But that is unavoidable when busting open a keg.
ShobThaBob
Premium
- 2,651
- rosooftw
'Proper maintenance' on a rotary isn't the same as proper maintenance on a normal car. They require car, loads of cooling, and very different driving habits.
- 2,143
- The Track
- youngun_great
When I say 100-120K I mean 100,000-120,000 miles for a street car that isn't heavily abused and well maintained.
FC no turbo? Forgetting TII's? I must own the one fluke turbo FC then? LOL!
As for rebuilds, pretty much all the small hard parts/seals/gaskets would be replaced yes. But that is unavoidable when busting open a keg.
Is that FC 100k or FD 100k?
Cuz yeh i've seen Fc's go a while but not FDs
(plus we don't really get many FC over here, if we do, they get the FD motor transplant anyway)
- 331
- KUSHifornia
- MaliciousMD
- MaliciousMD
This is the point I'm trying to get across, rotary is not for the lazy people. Ignore your warning buzzer for bleeding your coolant system or low oil and you will cook an engine real fast.
Essential gauges for rotary cars: oil pressure & temp, water temp, AFR, EGT (before turbine wheel in turbo cars). Pissin' in the wind without them if you ask me...
Any street engine. There is a reason RE/REW seals & springs are upgrades for earlier engines. Have a friend with a 93 R1 original engine never been rebuilt with 95,000 miles on it. Compression tested a few weeks ago at 95/95/90 and 95/95/95. Pretty healthy in my book and most rotor heads books. Then again finding a car with an original engine that healthy is like finding a unicorn...
- 2,143
- The Track
- youngun_great
FD on 95/95/95
Thats impressive, My mates just got rebuilt and around that and thats a '97.
but still, to use it like it should be used would make it need a rebuild in my experiance (read alot of banzai and Japanese tuner mags, any follow Re amimeya)
But yeh care is IMPORTANT
- 331
- KUSHifornia
- MaliciousMD
- MaliciousMD
His car is the fluke, most "healthy" untouched 100,000 mile engines I've seen only pump 90ish which is still pretty freakin' good considering, but agreed is getting tired around 80ish.
I've seen plenty rebuilt RE(W) motor's with stock-small street ports after break in test at 100+/100+/100+. Is your friends rebuild still relatively fresh, ported? What kind of idle vacuum does he pull? That would be a pretty good indication of the engine health.
- 2,143
- The Track
- youngun_great
Not sure really, The FD i almost bought had the receipt a few weeks old and large street port but was only 96/98/98. I seen show cars around that mark. Could just be the US standard i guess. Ah well
Back on topic, Yes, a daily driver but expect fuel and oil budget to be high! Get a motor bike for short trips
Evens costs out then
ShobThaBob
Premium
- 2,651
- rosooftw
Right, if it requires radically different care and moficiations in order to not break down, that's generally considered unreliable. In no other modern cars do you have to be aware of so many different factors.
- 2,143
- The Track
- youngun_great
My Rx8 you do, 5 years old. Thats what rotaries do. Advantages and Disadvantegs of them really. I get a great sound at 9000rpm but need oil change 2000 miles earlier than a piston engine. Reliabilty is it breaking down, good maintanence stops that!
