DFP Tips for Driving the SW20, Traction control off,

I really enjoy the SW20. I'm considering it if/when I move to japan.

Anyway I was looking at GT4 trying to get a realistic (realtively speaking) experience in driving the 1997 GTS, I turned off all traction control to see how the car would handle. Just like in real life the car would show understeer or snap oversteer. I tried everything suspension tuning possible, most still resulting in the same effect.

But then I tried left foot braking, what a difference that made! Not only was snap oversteer and understeer controlled, but I could keep whatever line I wanted through a turn. As the beginning of understeer starts to show, lightly applying the brakes will tuck the front end in.

While testing out this theory, I raced against a ghost of the 93 silvia making similar power and using late braking tactics. What resulted was the MR2 was quicker by 1.5-2 seconds per lap.

I don't know if this is relavent to real life, it might be. Has anybody tried this in game with similar results?
 
comet_65cali
I don't know if this is relavent to real life, it might be. Has anybody tried this in game with similar results?

Left foot braking? I only do it when I need a quick tap of the brakes, but want to be able to get back on the gas quickly- and even then I rarely go 100% of the braking power with my left foot.
 
luftrofl
Left foot braking? I only do it when I need a quick tap of the brakes, but want to be able to get back on the gas quickly- and even then I rarely go 100% of the braking power with my left foot.

I gently tap the brakes, up to about 10%, any time the car begins to understeer. Plus my right foot never gets off the accelerator, I just reduce the amount of gas. In the SW20 it allows me to go mostly full throttle through the turn without severe understeer or snap oversteer.
 
I never tried left foot braking with the SW20, I usually just take corners with the tail out, it works pretty well for me. 👍 I'll have to try your technique, it might work better. :)
 
If google didn't exist I would never have realised that an SW20 is, in fact, a Toyota MR2 Mk2.

I left-foot brake to stabilise a car, not necessarily to correct oversteer. Its also useful for losing a tiny bit of speed for high-speed bends, e.g. 'Ring. Well, left-foot braking = thumb across X and square at the same time. I dont have a DFP:grumpy: they are fantastic - used a friend's once.
 
appie17
Do you guys only use one foot for both the pedals:confused:

im only using my 2 feet:tup:

I actually do use both feet, but the left foot braking technique I'm describing is using the accelerator with the right foot while modulating the brakes to correct either oversteer or understeer at the same time. MR cars normally have lift throttle oversteer in real life, so modulating the gas alone can be tricky, especially with quick direction change.

The left foot braking technique described allows for quick direction change without any inherit problems. It also allows for better control on high speed turns as described above.
 
RenesisEvo
If google didn't exist I would never have realised that an SW20 is, in fact, a Toyota MR2 Mk2.
Yeah, why do people still reffer to car's by their chassis code's or whatever, the car's called the Toyota MR2, why can't people call it the MR2 and not confuse the people who don't know the code's.

With regards to left foor braking I do it quite often, usually so I can be back on the throttle as quick as possible and have more throttle control.
 
live4speed
Yeah, why do people still reffer to car's by their chassis code's or whatever, the car's called the Toyota MR2, why can't people call it the MR2 and not confuse the people who don't know the code's.

It's a uber gearhead "in" thing :dopey: "SW20" is easier to say than "Second Generation Toyota MR2," a good way to designate differences in generations of cars, it's used in GT4 as well if you look.

Same thing using the terms MA68, MA70, JZA80, AW11, ZZW30, AE86, AE92, AE101, AE111, JZX90, JZX100, BNR32, HCR32, BNCR33, HCR33, BNR34, HCR34, V35, S13, S14, S15, B12, B13, B14, B15, RPS13, EF6, EG6 EK6, EK9, DC2, DC5, SA22, FB3S, FC3S, FD3S, SE3P, NA6C, NA8C, NB8C, and so forth.
 
comet_65cali
It's a uber gearhead "in" thing :dopey: "SW20" is easier to say than "Second Generation Toyota MR2," a good way to designate differences in generations of cars, it's used in GT4 as well if you look.

Same thing using the terms MA68, MA70, JZA80, AW11, ZZW30, AE86, AE92, AE101, AE111, JZX90, JZX100, BNR32, HCR32, BNCR33, HCR33, BNR34, HCR34, V35, S13, S14, S15, B12, B13, B14, B15, RPS13, EF6, EG6 EK6, EK9, DC2, DC5, SA22, FB3S, FC3S, FD3S, SE3P, NA6C, NA8C, NB8C, and so forth.

You should realise though that GTP is a multi national community and some members have trouble understanding what is on these forums without people calling cars by there chassis codes or whatever. You could just say MK2 MR2, one of my best mates owns a Mk2 MR2 turbo and he never calls it an SW20 or whatever.

Like i was saying, what is easy for you to read and understand can cause confusion for those who are not in the know or those where english is not there first language.

A bit of consideration for others can go along way

Spec....
 
comet_65cali
I actually do use both feet, but the left foot braking technique I'm describing is using the accelerator with the right foot while modulating the brakes to correct either oversteer or understeer at the same time. MR cars normally have lift throttle oversteer in real life, so modulating the gas alone can be tricky, especially with quick direction change.

The left foot braking technique described allows for quick direction change without any inherit problems. It also allows for better control on high speed turns as described above.


ooh like that, thnx for the reply:dunce: 👍
 
Back