DIY Steel Tubing/Materials

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Dysfnctnl85
I've searched far and wide and frankly I give up.

In a cockpit discussion thread a member linked to a site (it's not even in my history on my iPad, iPhone, FireFox, Chrome, Safari, etc. and it's MADDENING) that sells steel tubing that interlocks, it appeared, without welding. It may have even slid together through a channel of some sort.

I really hope I didn't have a dream about this and someone out there may be able to help. I also thought that if someone identifies the aforementioned company, a DIY thread about materials would be great. Unless of course there is one and I completely missed it.
 
I've searched far and wide and frankly I give up.

In a cockpit discussion thread a member linked to a site (it's not even in my history on my iPad, iPhone, FireFox, Chrome, Safari, etc. and it's MADDENING) that sells steel tubing that interlocks, it appeared, without welding. It may have even slid together through a channel of some sort.

I really hope I didn't have a dream about this and someone out there may be able to help. I also thought that if someone identifies the aforementioned company, a DIY thread about materials would be great. Unless of course there is one and I completely missed it.


https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=132467

?
 
Make sure to design adjustability into the cockpit because to get the perfect seating position/tilt/height, steering position/tilt/height, pedal position/tilt/height, you actually have to sit in it. You will not be able to CAD or sketch out the perfect size.

Make sure you understand how to make it stable without over-engineering. The key is knowing how the extrusions will flex. One of many examples: if you don't design the steering column/seat rail connection properly the steering posts will act as big levers and twist the rails, which allows the steering platform to have too much lateral movement. Another example: you need to make sure the main rails have enough rigidity to have minimum "bowing" if you have a load cell brake mod. These are only two of many mistakes you can make. I've built about 15 8020 frames and I've made all the mistakes.

If you design properly, the frame will have more stability, less weight, more adjustability and cost less than commercial frames. If you design poorly, you will end up ordering way too many parts you don't need, as well as suffer in the above areas, especially the expense.

The best place to source the 8020 is the 8020 ebay site because you can get some of the parts cheaper and you don't have to go through a distributer.
 
Make sure to design adjustability into the cockpit because to get the perfect seating position/tilt/height, steering position/tilt/height, pedal position/tilt/height, you actually have to sit in it. You will not be able to CAD or sketch out the perfect size.

Make sure you understand how to make it stable without over-engineering. The key is knowing how the extrusions will flex. One of many examples: if you don't design the steering column/seat rail connection properly the steering posts will act as big levers and twist the rails, which allows the steering platform to have too much lateral movement. Another example: you need to make sure the main rails have enough rigidity to have minimum "bowing" if you have a load cell brake mod. These are only two of many mistakes you can make. I've built about 15 8020 frames and I've made all the mistakes.

If you design properly, the frame will have more stability, less weight, more adjustability and cost less than commercial frames. If you design poorly, you will end up ordering way too many parts you don't need, as well as suffer in the above areas, especially the expense.

The best place to source the 8020 is the 8020 ebay site because you can get some of the parts cheaper and you don't have to go through a distributer.

Thanks for sharing this info nicka117, I really do appreciate it, and I'm sure any other forum member reading your post will as well.
 
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