///DR's Guide to Inverting Fanatec Clubsport Pedals\\\

[Delphic Reason]

Guide for Inverting Fanatec Clubsport Pedals​

For a long time, if you wanted hanging pedals (as pictured) your only choice was to take apart the G25/G27 pedals, or pay top dollar for high end PC only peripherals. Now, you have another option. The Fanatec Clubsport Pedals (or CSP's as they are also known).

Initially, many thought the CSP's would be too difficult to invert, as they weren't built with that in mind, as the G25/27's clearly were. However, as I will demonstrate, it is quite the easy process. Just a few easy steps, and your pedals could look just like the above picture (more or less).

First of all, you will need to watch the "Video Tutorial For Fanatec Clubsport Pedals":

​

Pay close attention at 2:43 to see how the CSP's are taken apart. The tools you will need are as follows:

14mm wrench
5mm allen key
4mm allen key​

Once you have pedals to the point shown in the video (spring tension released) there are a few small changes that need to be made in order to make your pedals work as they should once in the inverted position. First of all, you need to swap the Throttle and Clutch springs (watch 4:37 in the video to see how easy this is). This is necessary because, once inverted, the pedals will be in a different order, and thus, something must be done so the throttle and clutch retain the same "feel". Swapping the springs will create the right "feel" in all pedals, but more must be done so the CSP’s brain (PCB) recognizes them as the correct pedals.

**Side Note: If you want to change the brake throw by moving the brass bar up a peg (or if you have the Tuning Kit) this is the time to make your brake modifications, before putting them back together**​

Once you are done swapping springs and making your brake adjustments, go ahead and put them back together.

Next you need to remove the pedal foot tray (pictured), with your 5mm allen key, to gain access to the circuit board (PCB as mentioned before):

Once you have the foot tray removed you will see the circuit board (pictured). All that needs to be done here is swapping around the “A” and “C” connectors. The best way to do this (without damaging the connectors) is with a pair of needle-nose pliers. So, very gently, remove the two connectors, and swap them.

You will also have to release one of the wires from it’s plastic guide-clip (pictured) as the wire needs a bit more “play” to reach it’s new connection point.

Swapping the connectors tells the PCB that the clutch is now the throttle, and visa versa. This completes what we started by swapping the springs. Your CSP’s are now effectively “inverted”. Just one more step…

So, now that your CSP’s are set up to be inverted all you have to do is swap the the throttle/clutch pedals (just the pedal faces), and turn all 3 pedals upside down before reattaching them to the unit. This way the pedals will all be in the right order, and at the right angle.

The only thing I won’t go into detail about is how to mount them. This is going to be different for everyone. Some will want them at a steep angle, some will want them straight up and down. Mine fall somewhere in-between. The only thing you need to do is attach them to a board, find the right angle for the board (i.e pedal angle) and attach the board to your rig. The CSP’s have very clear mounting points, so no need to go into detail about that. If you’ve made it this far, you should have no problem finding a way to mount them.

If all goes well, you should have something that looks like this:

Before:

After:

Or, if you have the “Tuning Kit” (Get it here: http://www.fanatec.com/):

In conclusion, I have used inverted G25’s (with Nixim mod) and while they felt pretty good, they can’t match the CSP’s load-cell brake that reacts depending on the pressure applied instead of the amount of travel (like the G25/27’s). This makes all the difference. Once I inverted my CSP’s I was astounded at the difference it made. All my games feel new again, and heel/toe downshifting is a breeze (especially if you keep the original “long” throttle pedal). I highly recommend this simple mod to anyone with CSP’s and a rig to mount them to.

Big thanks to GTP's own "Mr. Latte" for his help (and a few pics) with this project.

Now, get out there and race!

***Stay tuned for my full review of the CSP Tuning Kit***

Official Fanatec Website: http://www.fanatec.com/
Thomas' Blog (CEO Endor (i.e Fanatec)): http://www.911wheel.de​

 

[teccboxx]

Nice post, thanks a bunch I am definatly going to do this. Hopefully Fanatec will get the tuning kits soon as that is what I am waiting for now!!!

Thanks Delphic

 

[crazedmodder]

Wow, I did not think it would be that easy Still not sure whether I want to do it or not but since it looks so easy I may as well just give it a try. 👍

Thanks for the guide Delphic.

 

[Delphic Reason]

Nice post, thanks a bunch I am definitely going to do this. Hopefully Fanatec will get the tuning kits soon as that is what I am waiting for now!!!

The tuning kit is fantastic. The longer metal bar for the brake, and different foam options allow you to get the brake feel "just right". Anyone with CSP's should pick it up as soon as it is released.

Wow, I did not think it would be that easy Still not sure whether I want to do it or not but since it looks so easy I may as well just give it a try.

It is well worth the effort. Believe me. The difference in how the pedals feel is incredible. I wish I would have done it far sooner.

Thanks Delphic

Thanks for the guide Delphic.

No problem. 👍

With Mr Latte's guide missing, due to GTF's demise, I thought there should be something to take its place. As you have no doubt noticed, it is extremely easy to invert your CSP's. Without guides like this, many people would never know just how easy it is, and thus, never experience inverted pedals.

 

[Mars Attacks]

Thanks for that Mr. Dr! I’m thinking seriously to buy a GT3RSV2/CS and I was wondering how to do this!👍

 

[MATKAP]

Thanks for the guide D elphic

 

[stega]

Thanks for this. Thanks Latte too.
I will prolly not do this but I always appreciate a good tutorial.

 

[Delphic Reason]

Thanks for that Mr. Dr! I’m thinking seriously to buy a GT3RSV2/CS and I was wondering how to do this!👍

Thanks for the guide Delphic

Thanks for this. Thanks Latte too.
I will prolly not do this but I always appreciate a good tutorial.

No problem. 👍

It was a fun little project. The cockpit is finally nearing completion. Paint, paneling (maybe), center console, and BK left to go.

The Inverted CSP's really brought the cockpit to life. It's incredible how much different the CSP's feel when inverted. Quite a difference. Much more immersion than I was expecting, to be honest. Far superior to the feel of the inverted G25's, in my opinion.

I've added a "before and after" to the first post. For those who don't know, this is what the CSP's look like prior to performing this mod:

 

[Mr Latte]

Well done...

This has always been rather easy to do modification, certainly easier than G25/G27 anyways and bit surprised more CSP owners dont perhaps consider it.
Look forward to the upcoming review of the "Tuning Kit" and Im interested to learn how and why that improves the product.

 

[speedyK]

I think it would be great if Fanatec could offer a small, separate base plate for the gas pedal as an optional extra.

Those who wished to could then transfer the gas pedal from the main Clubsport pedal set to the mount the gas pedal separately.


After all, the whole Fanatec thing is supposed to emulate the Porsche 997 – and that has hanging brake and clutch pedals and a floor-mounted gas pedal.

That way we could get it right 👍

 

[Delphic Reason]

Again, I just don't see the point. If you want to have a floor mounted gas pedal, you can easily buy some extra medal rods from the hardware store, and fab something up to house the gas pedal. However, you would also have to lengthen the wire that goes to the gas pedal.

This is not difficult to do, but isn't really necessary either.

Fanatec have already provided a set of pedals that can be modified much more than any other console offering, colored pedal/foot plates, and a tuning kit.

I fear you may be asking too much.

The CS Shifter and CS Handbrake is where I personally would rather Fanatec focus their time (after releasing the Carrera Wheel, that is).

Just my take on things...

After all, the whole Fanatec thing is supposed to emulate the Porsche 997

The standard pedals, yes...

The CSP's, no...

The CSP's are built as a generic racing pedal setup. This is why you don't see the Porsche name attached to any of the "Clubsport" products.

 

[speedyK]

I fear you may be asking too much.

It's not as if I'm asking for them to develop something completely new, such as a joystick for flight sims. It would simply be a shorter version of the existing base unit to swap the gas pedal onto. And, yes, you're probably right that I'm asking too much – but if you don't ask...

The CSP's are built as a generic racing pedal setup. This is why you don't see the Porsche name attached to any of the "Clubsport" products.

Good point...

but I still would like the CSPs as a "split"set – or at least with the option to buy a stock set and swap the gas pedal to a separate base for the "correct" Porsche set-up 👍

 

[Delphic Reason]

It's not as if I'm asking for them to develop something completely new, such as a joystick for flight sims. It would simply be a shorter version of the existing base unit to swap the gas pedal onto. And, yes, you're probably right that I'm asking too much – but if you don't ask...

It is very doubtful such a thing would ever be provided by Fanatec. Very few people would buy it. With such a small number of people requesting such a feature, there just isn't much reason for them to put in the time and development to make it a reality. As I said, it's not hard to fab it up yourself.

Update: I am nearing completion of the Tuning Kit review/guide. It's taking longer than expected, both due to my schedule, and all the information I'm trying to provide in the review.

If you're on the fence as to whether to buy the Tuning Kit or not, wait for the review. it should clear a few things up.

 

[UK-Gamer]

That looks very good, Im hoping to get a GT3RSV2 w/ clubsports and invert, it's a shame that you can't take the pedals apart 1 by 1 like the G25/27 pedals, then you can achieve the Porsche 997 pic by mounting the accelerator to the floor, and hang the clutch and brake.

 

[Delphic Reason]

That looks very good, Im hoping to get a GT3RSV2 w/ clubsports and invert, it's a shame that you can't take the pedals apart 1 by 1 like the G25/27 pedals, then you can achieve the Porsche 997 pic by mounting the accelerator to the floor, and hang the clutch and brake.

Thank you.

As for the ability to have the pedals separate... Other than trying to replicate the look of a standard Porsche layout, there isn't much point. Once you experience how inverted CSP's feel, I doubt you'll want them any other way.

BTW, I suggest to anyone inverting their CSP's to make sure your allen screws on either side of the pedal base (especially the screws attaching the bar the pedals are anchored to) are tight. I keep a metric allen set near my cockpit so I can make sure everything is tight before every use. Of course, this wasn't until after my bar had come off right in the middle of an online endurance race. Hence my suggestion. No one should have to pit in an endurance race due to something unrelated to the in-game vehicle.

 

[UK-Gamer]

Thank you.

As for the ability to have the pedals separate... Other than trying to replicate the look of a standard Porsche layout, there isn't much point. Once you experience how inverted CSP's feel, I doubt you'll want them any other way.

BTW, I suggest to anyone inverting their CSP's to make sure your allen screws on either side of the pedal base (especially the screws attaching the bar the pedals are anchored to) are tight. I keep a metric allen set near my cockpit so I can make sure everything is tight before every use. Of course, this wasn't until after my bar had come off right in the middle of an online endurance race. Hence my suggestion. No one should have to pit in an endurance race due to something unrelated to the in-game vehicle.

Personally, id prefer fully inverted but to accomodate others...

Lol at your experience.

 

[Delphic Reason]

Lol at your experience.

My message, over the mic, to my teammate "I need to pit. I've damaged my pedals" invoked an interesting, although not unexpected, response of "You did what? I didn't think this games' damage model was that specific."

 

[ibuycheap]

I haven't inverted my csp's but I notice you didn't do anything to account for the different throw of the gas and clutch. My gas has a much shorter throw than the clutch and they are both on the default 2nd peg hole.

Is it your preference to have a shorter clutch and longer gas?

 

[andrez004]

I haven't inverted my csp's but I notice you didn't do anything to account for the different throw of the gas and clutch. My gas has a much shorter throw than the clutch and they are both on the default 2nd peg hole.

Is it your preference to have a shorter clutch and longer gas?

I just did the inverted thing, but haven't mounted them up yet. I think it's mostly personal preference. If you think about it the longer the stroke the more precise you can be with throttle modulation... at least to a certain extent. But if you are really good with your foot a shorter stroke will get you to your destination faster. foot like hippo = long... foot like mountain goat = short

 

[Delphic Reason]

I haven't inverted my csp's but I notice you didn't do anything to account for the different throw of the gas and clutch. My gas has a much shorter throw than the clutch and they are both on the default 2nd peg hole.

Is it your preference to have a shorter clutch and longer gas?

No, there is no difference between the gas and clutch. The only difference is how they may be adjusted from the factory. If you take apart your CSP's you will see there is actually no difference between the throttle and clutch sides. However, they can be adjusted to provide different amounts of resistance/throw depending on preference.

BTW, you can't actually move those peg holes anyway (gas/clutch). Only the brake peg can be moved to a different hole. If you move either the gas or clutch pegs, they will no longer line up with the sensors.

 

[ibuycheap]

No, there is no difference between the gas and clutch. The only difference is how they may be adjusted from the factory. If you take apart your CSP's you will see there is actually no difference between the throttle and clutch sides. However, they can be adjusted to provide different amounts of resistance/throw depending on preference.

BTW, you can't actually move those peg holes anyway (gas/clutch). Only the brake peg can be moved to a different hole. If you move either the gas or clutch pegs, they will no longer line up with the sensors.

I think Thomas needs to clear something up because my clutch is definitely longer. I measured the depth of the opening and the clutch is drilled deeper by about 5-7 mm.

Is this some manufacturing defect or am I seeing things?

<edit>

I've read some more reviews on the csps and none of them mention different throws. I think that it is a machining error. I've had them for over a year now and it has never bothered me, so I may just flip them around when I invert.

 

[andrez004]

I think Thomas needs to clear something up because my clutch is definitely longer. I measured the depth of the opening and the clutch is drilled deeper by about 5-7 mm.

Is this some manufacturing defect or am I seeing things?

<edit>

I've read some more reviews on the csps and none of them mention different throws. I think that it is a machining error. I've had them for over a year now and it has never bothered me, so I may just flip them around when I invert.

Now that I take a closer look both of the rods seem to be the same length. I didn't exactly measure them just eye-balled. I do remember in one of his videos talking about cutting the rod something to make different lengths. Yeah if you want to retain your original throw then just swap the rods.

 

[Delphic Reason]

If you take the pedals apart, you will clearly see there are no differences between the two sides. Only the springs are different. The rods are identical in length and width. They both sit in a plastic holder that fits in the hole itself. Sometimes, when taking the rods out, the plastic piece will stay in the hole. If you measured it in this way (one plastic housing in place, and one not), they would indeed seem to be different lengths.

I think Thomas needs to clear something up because my clutch is definitely longer.

Not likely.

I have worked on 3 different CSP's, and they were all as I have described. If you do indeed have one rod that is longer, take some pictures, and send them to Fanatec. There is no reason why they should be different lengths.

 

[ibuycheap]

If you take the pedals apart, you will clearly see there are no differences between the two sides. Only the springs are different. The rods are identical in length and width. They both sit in a plastic holder that fits in the hole itself. Sometimes, when taking the rods out, the plastic piece will stay in the hole. If you measured it in this way (one plastic housing in place, and one not), they would indeed seem to be different lengths.



Not likely.

I have worked on 3 different CSP's, and they were all as I have described. If you do indeed have one rod that is longer, take some pictures, and send them to Fanatec. There is no reason why they should be different lengths.

Yes I believe you are right about the matching lengths thing, but I've taken mine apart and it's not the rods that are different lengths it's the depth of the tubes. (I never meant the rods being of different lengths if there was any misunderstanding.)

There wasn't any plastic inside the tube that I could see I only saw a black rubber piece at the bottom. It really doesn't bother me so I just switched the shafts from right to left so its the same while inverted.

 

[Delphic Reason]

Yes I believe you are right about the matching lengths thing, but I've taken mine apart and it's not the rods that are different lengths it's the depth of the tubes. (I never meant the rods being of different lengths if there was any misunderstanding.)

There wasn't any plastic inside the tube that I could see I only saw a black rubber piece at the bottom. It really doesn't bother me so I just switched the shafts from right to left so its the same while inverted.

Bro, you need to look closer. If I have to take pictures I will, but hopefully that isn't necessary.

Take your rods out, and look in the holes. There is a plastic piece that fits in the hole on both sides. As I said before (but you clearly misunderstood) if you take the rods out, sometimes the plastic piece will come out with it. I have measured both the rods and the holes in which they sit. There is no difference.

You did not need to "switch the shafts". There is NO difference. If you don't believe someone who has taken apart a fair few CSP units, contact Fanatec. They will tell you the same thing.

 

[Crispy]

Are there any precautions I should take before inverting my CSP's? I really don't want to brake them.

 

[Delphic Reason]

Are there any precautions I should take before inverting my CSP's? I really don't want to brake them.

Just follow the directions, and you'll be fine. Take care not to damage any of the connectors/wires, as they are delicate. Other than that, now worries.

 

[Crispy]

Just follow the directions, and you'll be fine. Take care not to damage any of the connectors/wires, as they are delicate. Other than that, now worries.

Alright, thanks. Saw the guide just after posting my thread.

Take care.

 

[Delphic Reason]

Alright, thanks. Saw the guide just after posting my thread.

Take care.

No harm done. Enjoy your inverted CSP's. It made all the difference in the world, for me.

 

[Crispy]

No harm done. Enjoy your inverted CSP's. It made all the difference in the world, for me.

I will, quick question that's a little off topic, but has your wheel gotten three red dashes on the LED Display before? Mine just got this and I'm a little worried. I Googled it and I got nothing useful back.