Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

[AlmostPodium]

Hi everyone,

Long-time lurker on this forum. First of all, I just want to say a BIG THANK YOU to all of you who spend so much time tweaking and testing different settings for our DD+ wheel base. Also, a big shoutout to @TSXChef who helped me a lot with settings. Im currently running the DD+ with Fanatec McLaren V2 wheel and custom shifters (Etsy) and Elite V2 pedal set (with Heusinkveld elastomer mod).

I love GT7 like all of you and im constantly looking to improve and also enjoy the feel of the wheel. Im currently looking to become more competitive in my racing online (I am in DR A+) so I would appreciate any advice from all of you fast aliens out there. I would like to be able to run @PirovacBoy’s settings but i think the wheel is just too heavy for me unfortunately. @timekiller001 maybe i should try something similar to what you run?

Also what is everyone’s thoughts on FFB at 100 and changing in-game torque vs setting in-game torque at 10 and ffb sens at 10 and adjusting ffb on the wheel?

I appreciate all your responses and also feel free to message me privately to discuss settings.

 

[PirovacBoy]

Hi there.
If the Wheel feels too heavy to you, you can simply lower the in game Torque Value from 5 to whatever feels most comfortable to you.
I wouldn't advise you though to go lower then 3 with the in game Torque.

Personally Torque 5 is the sweet spot to me, but we all have different preferences so feel free to adjust it to your personal likings.

Regarding your question.
Always leave the Wheelbase FFB at 100.
That way you make sure that your Wheelbase is always capable of providing its full potential Power.
For example, if you put your Wheelbase at 50, it will produce a peak Torque of 7.5 NM.
So you will miss a lot of Headroom and dynamic range within the Game Signal, depending on what in game Torque Value you have Set.
That means if you select 50 on your Wheelbase and an in game Torque Value of 10 AND Sensitivity at 10 your Wheel will constantly output 7.5NM of Torque no matter if you drive slow or fast, or turn only a little or more.
It will always feel super heavy without any sort of dynamic force immediately as soon as you start to turn the Wheel.
With Torque 10 and Sensitivity 1 you will get back the Dynamic Range, yet its operating window will be much smaller.
So in any case I would never recommend to use a Sensitivity setting higher then 1 if you want to ensure the highest possible amount of dynamic range within the FFB Signal.
But like with all FFB Settings it's all personal preference.
My Focus is always to get as much detail as necessary and not to be overwhelmed with unnecessary Signal Noise which masks the fundamentals.
I want a clear separation of Understeer/Oversteer/and a gradual increase as well as decrease in the FFB Signal curve and Weight Transfer in the highest and most detailed way.
So to sum it up, if the Wheel feels to heavy to you ( Noodle Arm Syndrome ) 😬 simply lower the in game Torque and it will still provide you with a detailed FFB Signal.
Because sometimes less is actually more, especially if you notice that your Steering Precision is suffering with high FFB Torque Values.
And of course if Competitive gaming is your main goal you should either be fit to use high FFB or simply use lower FFB Values.
In any case it's the right balance between Strength and Details you should opt for.
So as long as you are able to react accordingly to the on screen action you have optimized your Wheel settings.
If you still find yourself under/oversteering or not able to react quickly enough you can still change the NDP Values.
A higher NDP Value will make the Wheel react less twitchy and vice versa.
The optimal Value is when you find yourself reacting and feeling 1:1 aligned with the on screen car behavior.
A lower NDP means you can raise the In game Torque and vice versa.
Again keep in mind though this all is meant as long as your Sensitivity settings are on 1.
The higher you go with it the more direct yet less dynamic the signal becomes.
So yeah I can still only highly recommend my mentioned Settings and in your case just simply lower the Torque from 5 to 4.
If it's still to heavy try 3.
This should definitely not be a problem to handle in terms of Strength.
Good luck 😉

 

[harnas8]

How can you drive with ABS off, you can't drive like that
@PirovacBoy

 

[PirovacBoy]

How can you drive with ABS off, you can't drive like that
@PirovacBoy

Why 😂
I don't know what exactly you mean saying I can't drive without ABS...?
Many can regardless if they play with Pad or with Wheel so... 😁
You can check my GT7 in game replays which I regularly upload new videos to.

There you can find many Different videos.
Mostly Nordschleife in GT3 or GT4 but high powered Road Cars as well.
And of course as always Cockpit View and no HUD.
Check it out you'll be surprised 😁

 

[harnas8]

show these movies
@PirovacBoy
I play on clubsport dd+ and it is impossible to drive with ABS turned off

 

[PirovacBoy]

show these movies
@PirovacBoy
I play on clubsport dd+ and it is impossible to drive with ABS turned off

Well I just told you 😂 it's all there on my replay section, live in color and varied.
Have a look under Replay section and search for #PirovacBoy
If you like to, just send me a friend request and you are welcome to join my # Sim Settings // Skilled Drivers Only // No Assists Lobby.
We mainly use GT3/GT4 and high powered Road Cars.

You say it is impossible to drive with no ABS but what exactly do you mean?
I assume you lock up a lot and therefore understeer a lot.
Let me tell you that driving with no ABS is no different at all then driving without TCS.
It's all about Brake respectively Throttle Control.
Too much throttle you will spin.
Too much brake pressure you will lock up.
No Witchcraft 😁

 

[AlmostPodium]

I will try 100 FFB today and see if I can make it work (with either 3/1 or 4/1 in-game settings). Since I also see a lot of people running 5/1 for in-game settings, then maybe I’ll try 80 FFB if 100 FFB is too much or something.
And im really curious about INT 11 cause before that when you were recommending 5, I switched to that and really liked it (what im currently using). Thanks @PirovacBoy

 

[super_gt]

I play on clubsport dd+ and it is impossible to drive with ABS turned off

Do you have a load cell brake pedal?

 

[harnas8]

Do you have a load cell brake pedal?

I use these pedals, you can't use any other ones on the playstation, only these work

 

[super_gt]

I use these pedals, you can't use any other ones on the playstation, only these work

All Fanatec pedals are compatible with all Fanatec bases.
You have a load cell pedal so you should be able to drive with ABS Off, increasing the sound from the tires to 5 also helps you understand exactly when the tires are locking up.
This a Tsukuba time trial with CS DD+ and CSL Load Cell Kit, ABS Off.

 

[PirovacBoy]

All Fanatec pedals are compatible with all Fanatec bases.
You have a load cell pedal so you should be able to drive with ABS Off, increasing the sound from the tires to 5 also helps you understand exactly when the tires are locking up.
This a Tsukuba time trial with CS DD+ and CSL Load Cell Kit, ABS Off.

Hristo, it's not just down to using Load Cell Pedals.
I have People coming to my Lobby which are using a Controller.
Others are using non Load Cell Pedals.
And me, I sometimes drive without Game Sound and still manage to pull of no major lock up runs if any at all.

Of course it's somewhat easier to reliably hit that max brake pressure without locking up with load cells but it's not a necessity if you like to drive without ABS.
It's easier maybe more consistent.

Me, I can feel the front tires when they start to slightly shudder as I'm starting to reach the maximum friction level so I mainly rely on that haptic feedback.
It feels very similar to real life braking and getting that nuanced Wheel buzz in your hands.
Of course you are right, you can for sure rely on the tire screech noise as well but depending on how loud and especially how good you can hear it, you will more or less brake sooner or later then actually necessary or needed despite not having reached 100% friction while braking.
So in my opinion the best way to do it is to balance both the haptical as well as the audio signal to get a precise understanding of how much brake pressure you apply and where exactly that trash hold point is.
Hence I highly recommend to use an INT 11 Value.
You will be surprised how much the Signal details will be separated from each other and how precise some effects are to be felt.
Understeer, Oversteer and weight transfer all feel very different and very close to real life.
Paired with no ABS and that subtle Wheel buzz under heavy braking and I don't accept any excuses for sloppy driving 😂
Oh and by the way that's a great run around Tsukuba without ABS.
You should consider joining my Lobby too.
You apparently have some great Throttle /Brake control and drivers with your skills and fundamental understanding of how to drive a car are always welcome to join my Lobbies 😉

But so are all others too.

In the end all that it teaches you is getting a perfect understanding of driving dynamics and especially car control.
Because believe it or not but the next time you jump into sport mode using ABS again, you will immediately notice how much better and precise your braking technique has become.
And therefore your Results as well.

Same goes for TCS.
Once you have mastered driving without it, the next time you use it you will notice that the time difference is almost non existent if any at all.
But now you have the safety net which in the longer runs might safe you.

 

[PirovacBoy]

show these movies
@PirovacBoy

Enjoy the show 😎



And because one is none…enjoy this ride around Nordschleife at Dawn , with a lil‘ drizzle for the Atmos… 😉

 

[rsspyder21]

Hello Guys and everyone in between 😬
Currently sitting at work doing my duty, I just tuned in to see if any news in regards of FullForce and finally its integration to GT7 might have leaked.

Unfortunately from the looks of it there still seems to be nothing on the radar.

Anyway I just wanted to share my latest Settings for GT7 which to be honest may seem minor at first glance, but let me assure you, they do have a significant impact on the overall perceived driving experience.

So if you are happy and satisfied with your Settings, you may as well skip the following.
Of course You'll definitely miss on a game changing driving experience, but like I mentioned earlier, if you're satisfied why change it.

For everyone else who is still struggling to get an as close as possible to the real world Wheel rim feel, the following Settings do provide the most authentic and immersive driving experience in GT7.

OK so here we go

Wheelbase Settings :
Sen: Auto
FFB: 100
FUL: OFF ( not used)
NDP: 28
NFR: 5
NIN: OFF
INT: 11
FEI: 100
FOR: 100
SPR: 100
DPR: 100

GT7 In Game Settings :
Controller Sensitivity : 0
Controller Vibration : OFF
TORQUE : 5
SENSITIVITY : 1

@PirovacBoy these are still your latest settings, correct?

For the past several weeks I hadn't gotten around to doing any virtual driving, the longest break I've taken in a long, long time. Won't bore anyone with the whys but I finally got back in the seat briefly yesterday and gave these settings a run.

Seems really solid to me, though I realized I must've been running your settings from however long ago because the only thing I needed to change was INT from 3 to 11. Oh, that and also changing my in-game sensitivity setting down to 1, as that has always been a setting I've been all over the map with because on its own it's never been entirely clear to me what effect it was having on the overall wheel/steering experience. So it may not feel like as huge of a change to me as it is for some who have tried the latest setup with INT at 11. I didn't have time to get out my VR2 headset, which is normally the only way I play anymore, but will do so tonight and am really looking forward to it.

That said, the 20 minutes I ran the 458 GT3 around the combined long track on Kyoto (one of my favorite tracks in GT7) did seem to indicate more refined FFB than previously. I still get plenty of vibration if I make a mistake and get into too much understeer but as has been commented on previously after the patch, it isn't as over the top as before. I was worried it was nerfed to almost nonexistant rumbling for big understeer, but that is not the case. As for oversteer, it may be placebo effect but it did SEEM like I can feel it coming fractionally sooner than before and that it is even more catchable as a result.

Great stuff overall!

 

[PirovacBoy]

these are still your latest settings, correct?

Yes Sir these exact and mentioned ones are The settings 😁

and gave these settings a run.

That was a good choice Mr. Spyder
Just don't rush it, take your time.
Try different Cars on different tires and most viable track would be the Nordschleife.

more refined FFB than previously.

Exactly well observed.
Specifically the separation between the 3 main Forces, Weight Transfer is greatly improved and very dynamic in its range.
Understeer is NO on / off switch anymore.
It's actually progressive and each stage within the FFB Signal is clearly separated from Weight Transfer or skidding tires.
Very precise overall.

I still get plenty of vibration

That is exactly what it's supposed to deliver, but now much more integrated into the actual perceived complete FFB Signal correlating perfectly in line with all effects and yet again no unnecessary noise.
Signal is very strictly separated.

As for oversteer, it may be placebo effect but it did SEEM like I can feel it coming fractionally sooner than before and that it is even more catchable as a result.

And it is EXACTLY that slight fraction earlier perceiving or almost anticipating the overseer and due to its clear, sharp and precisely on point Signal, it feels satisfyingly natural to correct them slides.
Very intuitive.
@Jordan mentioned the same so you Guys are definitely not imagining things.
I was astound too... 😁