FFB Sensitivity Setting what do you actually feel from the wheel

[Gt_usv67]

I got a wheel 3 months ago. What I haven't understood is the difference in my racing with sensitivity 10 or 1. What changes for you? Do you feel something different from the wheel and how? Does the car react differently and how?

Also I also found it necessary to tweak settings for gr4 vs gr2 cars. Gr4 is great doesn't spin the back feel on exits and the lowering the ffb works for me.

Gr2 has been a nightmare I keep spinning out on exit by accelerating to soon or getting on the rumble strips. Or just accelerating out on a hilly exit. This really made me rage quit numerous times and I really don't like how I can't get the consistency down without sacrificing lap time, especially in races with tire wear.

How do you understand the ffb sensitivity settings on the wheel in terms of feeling the difference while driving and the feeling in the wheel feedback.

I haven't found any good discussion on wheels so far. I had to learn and adjust on the wheel things like when it meant I was understeering, and when the wheel became lights entering into corner meant I could release the brakes and turn in and that point.

 

[Lazybike]

Which wheel? I'm surprised you couldn't find any good wheel settings, have you looked in the hardware section of gtplanet, there's loads of good info.

 

[Gt_usv67]

Which wheel? I'm surprised you couldn't find any good wheel settings, have you looked in the hardware section of gtplanet, there's loads of good info.

T300RS it's not that I didn't find any recommendations. I'm not quite getting where I'm lacking with gr2 cars. Which is why I ask about what exactly ffb sensitivity brings to the table. I'll take a look at the hardware section.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Quoting myself from this old thread: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/some-thoughts-on-ffb-sensitivity.384232/

I always thought FFB sensitivity is a road surface amplifier, until someone else here made a good point that its a damper setting, but reversed (smaller number = higher damper = wheel less shaky on straights but trade off with loss of smaller FFB details). Thinking of it this way, the in game description and feeling makes perfect sense. Of course, you need a good wheel to be able to feel it because the difference between 1 and 10 is still pretty small anyway. With my G25 (using Ricmotech adapter) I can't really feel any difference so I just left it at 10 for maximum FFB detail. With my T-GT, initially I was using 1 because the wheel wanders too much around the centre at 10, until I learned to lower the FFB torque and increase controller sensitivity (which changes linearity) to compensate for it.

So to sum up:
FFB Torque = strength of forces
FFB Sensitivity = "inverse damper" (low number = wheel more stable on straights but less detail)
Controller Sensitivity = linearity (smaller effect than using Dualshock 4 however)

Knowing all that, my method of tuning FFB now is as follows:
- Start with FFBT 1, FFBS 10, CS 0 (this will give weakest but purest FFB)
- If your wheel wanders too much down the straight progressively lower FFBS until comfortable (ideally you want this number as high as possible so you don't lose too much detail in FFB)
- Next start increasing FFBT to give you the resistance you prefer (this is highly personal but I recommend using no higher than 4 otherwise your FFB will start clipping and you also lose detail)
- Finally, play around with CS to fine tune FFB and steering "directness" around centre (e.g. I like an aggressive turn in so I use CS 7, if you want a smoother & more accurate use lower)

My personal settings:
G25 (also applicable to G27/29): FFBT 4 (3 for drifting), FFBS 10, CS 0
T-GT: FFBT 2 (1 for drifting), FFBS 10, CS 7
For twitchy cars (e.g. kart, Red Bull Jr, Formula cars): FFBT 2, FFBS 1, CS -2

FFB is highly personal however. What works for one person might not work for another (although it's very hard to mess up FFB in GTS due to how narrow the adjustment range is). Especially if you're new to using a wheel, it's best to just stick to default setting until you get used to it (and can at least match your controller times). Changing the FFB settings too much too early will just confuse your brain during the adaptation period.

 

[Gt_usv67]

Quoting myself from this old thread: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/some-thoughts-on-ffb-sensitivity.384232/



FFB is highly personal however. What works for one person might not work for another (although it's very hard to mess up FFB in GTS due to how narrow the adjustment range is). Especially if you're new to using a wheel, it's best to just stick to default setting until you get used to it (and can at least match your controller times). Changing the FFB settings too much too early will just confuse your brain during the adaptation period.

Very helpful thanks, however you lost me at CS 7. If you meant controller sensitivity Isn't that only for DS4 - meaning the setting is completely independent with wheel. Or have you really felt differently. I'll give the tuning a shot tho. I'm using max torque 4 and sensitivity 1 for gr4, and now trying sensitivity 7 for gr2, haven't felt anything change tbh I was B Dr on controller and once I got the wheel I went to D lol. Now I've climbed back up to B and was feeling faster than on controller for gr4 races but now struggling here with gr2 cars. Honestly the reason I'm pulling my hair out over gr2 races is mostly because I'm not keeping the car stable enough during the hilly corners of Fuji which leads to more instances/probability of accidentally getting on power while wheel is 20-50 degrees turned in.

I've seen how essential accelerating early is to the lap times but I just can't do it as the fear of spinning out stops me

 

[Lazybike]

It may just be...and don't take this the wrong way, a skill level issue rather than a wheel setting, have a look at Tidgney's driving school/race guide videos on Youtube, Gr2 needs careful throttle control compared to Gr4, I have a G29 and I don't change settings between cars.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Very helpful thanks, however you lost me at CS 7. If you meant controller sensitivity Isn't that only for DS4 - meaning the setting is completely independent with wheel. Or have you really felt differently. I'll give the tuning a shot tho. I'm using max torque 4 and sensitivity 1 for gr4, and now trying sensitivity 7 for gr2, haven't felt anything change tbh I was B Dr on controller and once I got the wheel I went to D lol. Now I've climbed back up to B and was feeling faster than on controller for gr4 races but now struggling here with gr2 cars. Honestly the reason I'm pulling my hair out over gr2 races is mostly because I'm not keeping the car stable enough during the hilly corners of Fuji which leads to more instances/probability of accidentally getting on power while wheel is 20-50 degrees turned in.

I've seen how essential accelerating early is to the lap times but I just can't do it as the fear of spinning out stops me

Yes the in game description only states it only affects DS4, but myself and a few other top drivers have definitely noticed a subtle difference with CS. It's hard to feel and at your level it probably doesn't make a lot of difference yet. If you try twitchier cars like the karts, RB Jr and Formula cars at ovals it's easier to feel but at the moment I'll just leave it at 0. There are more detailed discussion in the thread I linked above.

Same with sensitivity, the adjustment range says it's from 1-10 but honestly the difference is tiny. I'll just leave it at 10 for now.

Torque wise, the T300RS is slightly less powerful than the T-GT so I'd go with 3. If you don't mind a weaker wheel then 2 will allow you to feel the more subtle forces better. Unfortunately the FFB in GTS is quite poor compared to other PC sims so most of the forces is just resistance and not actually providing info about the car, so increasing torque too high is actually counterproductive. It also makes it harder to countersteer.

Back when I first switched to a wheel it took me few months to match my controller times. It took me almost a year to be able to countersteer effectively and not be scared of RWD cars. That was with the Logitech G25, which has very low internal resistance so it can actually countersteer quicker than belt driven wheels like the T300. When I switched to T-GT I struggled again with driving RWD cars and took me a few months again. It's a never ending process, don't rush it and just enjoy the journey 👍

It might not sound very exciting but I would avoid driving the race cars for now. Go to Tsukuba or Suzuka East in a low powered RWD (e.g. Miata or GT86), put Comfort Hards, all aids off (except ABS) and just keep driving laps, getting used to the feeling of going sideways and catching the car with the wheel & throttle control instead of trying to go fast. Once you get used to it, move up to slightly faster cars like RX7 or NSX. Then try the Porsche 911s. Then go to Gr.4, Gr.3, Gr.2, Gr.1 and finally Formula cars. If you get the basics right you'll be in a much better place later on than trying to jump immediately in the faster cars

 

[kilesa4568]

How do you understand the ffb sensitivity settings on the wheel in terms of feeling the difference while driving and the feeling in the wheel feedback.

There's a good demonstration of settings in this video:



Judging by your description though, your feet are the problem, not the wheel. You need fast reactions to catch a slide on a wheel so the smoother you are with the pedals, the easier it will be to react and work with what the FFB is telling you. I've got the same wheel (GT pedals) as you and after switching from a G29, the FFB is a pleasure to work with in GTS. I mainly use 3-10 but as I like a heavier wheel, I use 4-6 for qualifying to tone down some of the finer details that I don't need to react to. Understeer feedback seems stronger too but it's a bit too heavy to race with. Where the racing line is a luxury.

When it comes to catching an unexpected slide, it's all muscle memory and a little slice of luck whether you succeed or not. Ballet on the pedals and fingertips on the wheel time.

 

[The_Tullster]

Yes the in game description only states it only affects DS4, but myself and a few other top drivers have definitely noticed a subtle difference with CS. It's hard to feel and at your level it probably doesn't make a lot of difference yet. If you try twitchier cars like the karts, RB Jr and Formula cars at ovals it's easier to feel but at the moment I'll just leave it at 0. There are more detailed discussion in the thread I linked above.

Same with sensitivity, the adjustment range says it's from 1-10 but honestly the difference is tiny. I'll just leave it at 10 for now.

Torque wise, the T300RS is slightly less powerful than the T-GT so I'd go with 3. If you don't mind a weaker wheel then 2 will allow you to feel the more subtle forces better. Unfortunately the FFB in GTS is quite poor compared to other PC sims so most of the forces is just resistance and not actually providing info about the car, so increasing torque too high is actually counterproductive. It also makes it harder to countersteer.

Back when I first switched to a wheel it took me few months to match my controller times. It took me almost a year to be able to countersteer effectively and not be scared of RWD cars. That was with the Logitech G25, which has very low internal resistance so it can actually countersteer quicker than belt driven wheels like the T300. When I switched to T-GT I struggled again with driving RWD cars and took me a few months again. It's a never ending process, don't rush it and just enjoy the journey 👍

It might not sound very exciting but I would avoid driving the race cars for now. Go to Tsukuba or Suzuka East in a low powered RWD (e.g. Miata or GT86), put Comfort Hards, all aids off (except ABS) and just keep driving laps, getting used to the feeling of going sideways and catching the car with the wheel & throttle control instead of trying to go fast. Once you get used to it, move up to slightly faster cars like RX7 or NSX. Then try the Porsche 911s. Then go to Gr.4, Gr.3, Gr.2, Gr.1 and finally Formula cars. If you get the basics right you'll be in a much better place later on than trying to jump immediately in the faster cars

Controller sensitivity doesn't affect linearity, it's a filter to reduce jumpy control inputs. Set low/negative, it averages controller input over quite a long time (maybe up to half a second) which means if you slam on full lock, the in game steering smoothly and slowly turns to full lock. Set high, the in game steering follows the controller input very closely. Watching the HUD steering dot, you can clearly see the difference when using controller. On a wheel I don't see any difference.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Controller sensitivity doesn't affect linearity, it's a filter to reduce jumpy control inputs. Set low/negative, it averages controller input over quite a long time (maybe up to half a second) which means if you slam on full lock, the in game steering smoothly and slowly turns to full lock. Set high, the in game steering follows the controller input very closely. Watching the HUD steering dot, you can clearly see the difference when using controller. On a wheel I don't see any difference.

Yes I know what it does on a controller. And it does the same thing with a wheel, albeit the effect is much much much more subtle. With most road cars and Gr.3/4 you won't notice it. But if you drive a kart on oval, you will notice it. On -2 it just dampens the initial steering input a little bit and makes it more precise.

The top drivers like Hizal and Fraga also uses +7 for most cars. Now these guys don't do something unless it gives them an advantage. I don't have their skills but from my experience I can feel it makes the initial steering more direct as well. If you can't feel it, then that's fine, I'm just saying it's worth a try for OP because of how limited the amount of adjustments you can make in this game's FFB 👍

 

[Groundfish]

I am gonna test this controller setting.
I’ve only ever used 7. If there’s any effect I’m sure I will notice it.
Fwiw on csl wheelbase I’m just running 4-4 in game.
I think you get sharper effects at 10 sensitivity, but I like it at default.
GTS might have subtle ffb but it is good. Informative....

 

[Gt_usv67]

Yes the in game description only states it only affects DS4, but myself and a few other top drivers have definitely noticed a subtle difference with CS. It's hard to feel and at your level it probably doesn't make a lot of difference yet. If you try twitchier cars like the karts, RB Jr and Formula cars at ovals it's easier to feel but at the moment I'll just leave it at 0. There are more detailed discussion in the thread I linked above.

Same with sensitivity, the adjustment range says it's from 1-10 but honestly the difference is tiny. I'll just leave it at 10 for now.

Torque wise, the T300RS is slightly less powerful than the T-GT so I'd go with 3. If you don't mind a weaker wheel then 2 will allow you to feel the more subtle forces better. Unfortunately the FFB in GTS is quite poor compared to other PC sims so most of the forces is just resistance and not actually providing info about the car, so increasing torque too high is actually counterproductive. It also makes it harder to countersteer.

Back when I first switched to a wheel it took me few months to match my controller times. It took me almost a year to be able to countersteer effectively and not be scared of RWD cars. That was with the Logitech G25, which has very low internal resistance so it can actually countersteer quicker than belt driven wheels like the T300. When I switched to T-GT I struggled again with driving RWD cars and took me a few months again. It's a never ending process, don't rush it and just enjoy the journey 👍

It might not sound very exciting but I would avoid driving the race cars for now. Go to Tsukuba or Suzuka East in a low powered RWD (e.g. Miata or GT86), put Comfort Hards, all aids off (except ABS) and just keep driving laps, getting used to the feeling of going sideways and catching the car with the wheel & throttle control instead of trying to go fast. Once you get used to it, move up to slightly faster cars like RX7 or NSX. Then try the Porsche 911s. Then go to Gr.4, Gr.3, Gr.2, Gr.1 and finally Formula cars. If you get the basics right you'll be in a much better place later on than trying to jump immediately in the faster cars

Yes yes yessss that hits so close. Soon as I got the wheel I turned off TCS and was so eager to do effective counter steer as I see others do in races and YT like supergt, tidgney etc. But it's been such a struggle and been so frustrating for so many months. The level I am at is having a kind of resignation that once the gr2 or any car cars go sideways if you didn't catch it super early which I can't detect at the moment I will just end up spinning. So I have seen better consistency just changing my driving style, being super aware to always be on half acceleration in corners and the only time I'll go full on acceleration is when I'm straightened out or the wheel turned not more than say 20 deg.

It's nice to hear about your experience with learning to counter steer. I'll try 3/2 on torque to see if I am able to counter steer any better

 

[Groundfish]

Ok.
You are new to wheel. Pick a ffb setting and stick with it or you will never develop the sense of feel you need.
Jmo but I think you should use tcs 3 and all the line aids, brake before apex throttle after.
If you can learn to steer with maximum turn of wheel at apex, then allow the wheel to unwind out as you add throttle imo it’s the best way to become fast.
If tcs cuts in its telling you your sequence of steering to throttle is not right.
You have to learn to walk before you can run.
I run times within 1-1.5 of the top with these settings, it’s just the coordination of inputs.
Worry about countrrsteeting after you develop the basic sequence.
Then it becomes natural to open up the angle on a slide..
Jmo

Also it’s great to want to drive like Tidg but definitely not realistic in the first month you have a wheel!
Start with basics buildup from there. The 86 Toyota is a great one to use to get used to things.

Edit the “controller sensitivity” has no effect on wheel.

 

[Gt_usv67]

Ok.
You are new to wheel. Pick a ffb setting and stick with it or you will never develop the sense of feel you need.
Jmo but I think you should use tcs 3 and all the line aids, brake before apex throttle after.
If you can learn to steer with maximum turn of wheel at apex, then allow the wheel to unwind out as you add throttle imo it’s the best way to become fast.
If tcs cuts in its telling you your sequence of steering to throttle is not right.
You have to learn to walk before you can run.
I run times within 1-1.5 of the top with these settings, it’s just the coordination of inputs.
Worry about countrrsteeting after you develop the basic sequence.
Then it becomes natural to open up the angle on a slide..
Jmo

Also it’s great to want to drive like Tidg but definitely not realistic in the first month you have a wheel!
Start with basics buildup from there. The 86 Toyota is a great one to use to get used to things.

Edit the “controller sensitivity” has no effect on wheel.

Thanks for the advice! I'll definitely pick up on some these tips.

 

[Junkman55]

I got a wheel 3 months ago. What I haven't understood is the difference in my racing with sensitivity 10 or 1. What changes for you? Do you feel something different from the wheel and how? Does the car react differently and how?

Also I also found it necessary to tweak settings for gr4 vs gr2 cars. Gr4 is great doesn't spin the back feel on exits and the lowering the ffb works for me.

Gr2 has been a nightmare I keep spinning out on exit by accelerating to soon or getting on the rumble strips. Or just accelerating out on a hilly exit. This really made me rage quit numerous times and I really don't like how I can't get the consistency down without sacrificing lap time, especially in races with tire wear.

How do you understand the ffb sensitivity settings on the wheel in terms of feeling the difference while driving and the feeling in the wheel feedback.

I haven't found any good discussion on wheels so far. I had to learn and adjust on the wheel things like when it meant I was understeering, and when the wheel became lights entering into corner meant I could release the brakes and turn in and that point.

What are we looking for in a FFB Wheel. (Force Feed Back )and (Feel Feed Back) is why we spend the money . The FORCE is personal . The FEEL (information) Feed back is what makes you understand the Feeling of the road and the car and will immerse you into Sim driving. The things you need to FEEL is simple.

1) Over and under steering.
2) Road surfaces wet, dry, tier build up and sand.
3) The cornering over rumble strips and staying on track
4) TRACTION is one of the most important feel.
5) There are other things like contact with other cars, the vibrations of RPM of your motor etc.

I am sure the force strength will make some of these Feels I am talking about more predominant but you will need all of them for better control.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

What are we looking for in a FFB Wheel. (Force Feed Back )and (Feel Feed Back) is why we spend the money . The FORCE is personal . The FEEL (information) Feed back is what makes you understand the Feeling of the road and the car and will immerse you into Sim driving. The things you need to FEEL is simple.

1) Over and under steering.
2) Road surfaces wet, dry, tier build up and sand.
3) The cornering over rumble strips and staying on track
4) TRACTION is one of the most important feel.
5) There are other things like contact with other cars, the vibrations of RPM of your motor etc.

I am sure the force strength will make some of these Feels I am talking about more predominant but you will need all of them for better control.

Thing is, setting the force too high will drown out all the subtle "feels" as well. The wheel only has a certain amount of force it can put out. If all it's trying to do is put out resistance, you can't feel the over/understeer etc. This is called FFB clipping. In other games we usually have separate sliders for each force, but in GT it's all lumped in one setting so that's why I always recommend to set FFB Torque <4.

Not GT but the principle is the same.

 

[Groundfish]

The in game defaults to 4-4.
I like it a lot there on csl.
I haven’t ever driven the gr3 Supra much, but I was noticing a ton of subtlety in the ffb response DEPENDING on how the car was loaded when cornering.
For example up the esses at Seaside using a very light touch, letting the car run out loosely up the hill I could hit 146-147 mph under the sign. That’s with tcs3.
No tire squeal at all.
However if you wind in some load of the ffb, the car is very very stable, but maybe 2-4 MPH SLOWER at the same spot. That’s a LOT of difference.
The car can be driven by loading it up, building the ffb forces, OR with a very very light touch, ALLOWING the self centering of the wheels to unwind it and that gets much more speed.
Interesting too noticed the same thing on the Mustang on the Nord, IF you can LET the wheel be light and lively the cars faster.
If you build in more load and use a bit more slip angle, it’s good and stable, and pretty fast, but not close to OPTIMAL fast and letting those fronts ROLL as opposed to scrub.
For a guy like me, relatively strong, it’s only a lively very light touch needed, but, I can’t always do it. It’s actually pretty challenging.
Now, on a low ffb setting on my wheel, that would make it much harder for me to tap into it-the “right” amount of ffb loading for a given car track tire combo.
It’s so so hard to describe this stuff, but optimal in the Supra at Seaside was building load entering turns, then releasing out light and lively.
Like you ever see in car the way the wheel tends to be dancing back and forth IRL?
Like that except it’s a lighter touch then you think and it’s ALLOWING things as much as making them happen by building ffb forces.
GTS is very very surprising in that the stuff is there but it really requires tremendous skill to get it working right.

I know I’ve beaten this point to death a thousand times over but default bb default tcs 3 really really really helps you can really be very very fast in gr3 and 4 with tcs3 but only if you are really tapped into the ffb.

Maybe this doesn’t make sense to people on ds4, using tcs, but on wheel it’s a tremendous feedback.

On Seaside I watched a lot of very highly ranked drivers struggling with tcs off doing a lot of wheelspin and countersteering on exit, and a lot of spins and offs.
Now, the BEST driver I saw using the car (alien) DID have tcs OFF, BUT, he was running near 36 in clean air, NOT countersteering on exit. He was hooked up in an excellent line carrying speed on throttle early...
Jmo hope this helps someone, you’ve really got to think about it.
Realize you can buildup up forces, load up the car and tires, or LET the car run out...
GTS is a joy to drive on csl at 4-4 with a nice light touch.
It doesn’t do road feel like ACC or RFACTOR2 but there’s enough...
Imo you don’t wanna turn things down too low, then there’s nothing there to work with.

 

[Junkman55]

Thing is, setting the force too high will drown out all the subtle "feels" as well. The wheel only has a certain amount of force it can put out. If all it's trying to do is put out resistance, you can't feel the over/understeer etc. This is called FFB clipping. In other games we usually have separate sliders for each force, but in GT it's all lumped in one setting so that's why I always recommend to set FFB Torque <4.

Not GT but the principle is the same.

There is one important factor to the FFB with a wheel set up is the camera cockpit view. it will help translate the FFB immersion with feeling and sight. When you are using a chase camera view the car is moving and pivoting on its center and not giving you a sense of speed with a view of traction and drifting in the turn.

 

[Yard_Sale]

Anyone with a CSL elite know how strong you can go with the settings till you start clipping?

 

[Yard_Sale]

I think I've been racing with one hand tied behind my back for the last year....



I got my wheel about a year ago (fanatec csl elite). I watched all the vids on different settings and mimicked what I saw from the big youtuber's with the exception of a few "small" changes. After the initial very steep learning curve, my times dropped dramatically. However, I've been at a severe plateau the last few months. I cannot control the Ferrari 488 GT3 car NO MATTER WHAT. Not to mention, I have never been able to do TCS-0 with any consistency, other than gr.4 cars...no matter how hard I try. At the recommendation of @Groundfish, I tried some different in-game settings for my wheel today. They felt ok. But when I got in the Ferrari to see how the new settings felt, it was more the same.

I’ve been having the urge to get a real sim game lately, so after I was done doing FIA this afternoon, I went to the PlayStation store and downloaded ACC and Project Cars 2. Then I went out to do some errands. While I was doing my errands, I started to think that I was probably going to have to revisit my wheel menu settings to get it decent for the new games.

Could there be a wheel setting that I’ve botched the last year, that could be the reason for me not being able to handle the Ferrari, not being able to go TCS zero on powerful cars, struggling with chronic early turn-in no matter how much I try?

Why yes, I think there is such a setting I botched…

All of the videos I’ve watched, I mimicked their settings except for one. When I first got my wheel, my favorite daily combo happened to be a daily “c”. Group 4 at Brands Hatch. I jumped in my trusty Slophy and I hated how much “slop” seemed to be in the wheel. I had the “sen” setting to auto like recommended, but since the wheel was new to me, I messed with that. I kept knocking that level down till the steering felt tight. I ended up at 45. It’s been like that ever since….


As I sat there pouting in line at Home Goods after my dismal FIA performance, IT HIT ME LIKE A TON OF BRICKS!! Could it be that my steering setting only works for Gr.4 cars…and it’s been a hinder everywhere else???

I pay the cashier $83.86 for some towels, a step stool, dog toys and a yoga mat for the lovely lady….and jam home to test my theory. I log onto the game and go do a TT at RBR in my kryptonite, the Ferrari 488. I do a baseline run with my standard settings. It’s a complete “yard-sale”TM.

I exit the session, change my “sen ” setting to AUTO, and head back out. NO OVERSTEER WHATSOEVER. NO UNDERSTEER. NO 360’s. NOTHING.

Absolutely amazed, I toggle off TCS for the next few laps. I had to either do something really dumb, or do something dumb on purpose to get the car to spin. I took the WRX out. Same thing. I took the GR.2 GTR out. TCS zero no problem. Bettle….samezees. Out of curiosity, I take out the car that started all of this. Guess what, the Slophy’s steering felt waaay too sloppy hahahaha!! Same thing with the GR.4 Ferrari. I messed with the “sen” setting with the gr.4 cars until it felt good. Ended up at 45 lol!!

Looks like I’ve found out why no matter how hard I try, I can’t do well in GR.3 and GR.2. I just needed to be set to AUTO.

And to be honest, me figuring how stupid I am couldn’t come at a better time as I won’t be able to dedicate as much of my free time to this game. My van is on its way to San Diego from the Ford assembly line as we speak, so in a couple weeks I’ll be building out a van when I’m not working. And dirt bike racing season starts back up in a couple months so I need to start training.

Hopefully this “breakthrough” pays dividends!!

 

[kungtotte_]

I think I've been racing with one hand tied behind my back for the last year....



I got my wheel about a year ago (fanatec csl elite). I watched all the vids on different settings and mimicked what I saw from the big youtuber's with the exception of a few "small" changes. After the initial very steep learning curve, my times dropped dramatically. However, I've been at a severe plateau the last few months. I cannot control the Ferrari 488 GT3 car NO MATTER WHAT. Not to mention, I have never been able to do TCS-0 with any consistency, other than gr.4 cars...no matter how hard I try. At the recommendation of @Groundfish, I tried some different in-game settings for my wheel today. They felt ok. But when I got in the Ferrari to see how the new settings felt, it was more the same.

I’ve been having the urge to get a real sim game lately, so after I was done doing FIA this afternoon, I went to the PlayStation store and downloaded ACC and Project Cars 2. Then I went out to do some errands. While I was doing my errands, I started to think that I was probably going to have to revisit my wheel menu settings to get it decent for the new games.

Could there be a wheel setting that I’ve botched the last year, that could be the reason for me not being able to handle the Ferrari, not being able to go TCS zero on powerful cars, struggling with chronic early turn-in no matter how much I try?

Why yes, I think there is such a setting I botched…

All of the videos I’ve watched, I mimicked their settings except for one. When I first got my wheel, my favorite daily combo happened to be a daily “c”. Group 4 at Brands Hatch. I jumped in my trusty Slophy and I hated how much “slop” seemed to be in the wheel. I had the “sen” setting to auto like recommended, but since the wheel was new to me, I messed with that. I kept knocking that level down till the steering felt tight. I ended up at 45. It’s been like that ever since….


As I sat there pouting in line at Home Goods after my dismal FIA performance, IT HIT ME LIKE A TON OF BRICKS!! Could it be that my steering setting only works for Gr.4 cars…and it’s been a hinder everywhere else???

I pay the cashier $83.86 for some towels, a step stool, dog toys and a yoga mat for the lovely lady….and jam home to test my theory. I log onto the game and go do a TT at RBR in my kryptonite, the Ferrari 488. I do a baseline run with my standard settings. It’s a complete “yard-sale”TM.

I exit the session, change my “sen ” setting to AUTO, and head back out. NO OVERSTEER WHATSOEVER. NO UNDERSTEER. NO 360’s. NOTHING.

Absolutely amazed, I toggle off TCS for the next few laps. I had to either do something really dumb, or do something dumb on purpose to get the car to spin. I took the WRX out. Same thing. I took the GR.2 GTR out. TCS zero no problem. Bettle….samezees. Out of curiosity, I take out the car that started all of this. Guess what, the Slophy’s steering felt waaay too sloppy hahahaha!! Same thing with the GR.4 Ferrari. I messed with the “sen” setting with the gr.4 cars until it felt good. Ended up at 45 lol!!

Looks like I’ve found out why no matter how hard I try, I can’t do well in GR.3 and GR.2. I just needed to be set to AUTO.

And to be honest, me figuring how stupid I am couldn’t come at a better time as I won’t be able to dedicate as much of my free time to this game. My van is on its way to San Diego from the Ford assembly line as we speak, so in a couple weeks I’ll be building out a van when I’m not working. And dirt bike racing season starts back up in a couple months so I need to start training.

Hopefully this “breakthrough” pays dividends!!

The "SEN" or "sensitivity" setting on Fanatec wheels controls the steering wheel lock, or how much rotation you have in the wheel from lock to lock.

A higher setting means you have to turn the wheel more than a full circle to get the front wheels from full left to full right (or vice versa), a lower setting means you can turn the front wheels from full left to full right in barely a full circle of the steering wheel.

Your setting of "45" would mean 450 degrees of steering from lock to lock, or barely more than one full circle. That means when you turn your steering wheel 90 degrees to either side you have turned the front wheels of the car almost fully to that side. On Gr4s and street cars this is not much of a problem because those cars have fairly big steering angles in the first place and are more forgiving with rough inputs.

On Gr3 and Gr2, almost instantly turning the wheels fully to the side is going to cause a lot of problems!

Gran Turismo Sport supports the "auto" setting which means the wheel will dynamically adjust to whatever the in-game car has and it's the recommended setting for a reason. This means you can drive an N100 car one day and hop into an SF-19 the next day without fiddling with settings: the wheel lock will automatically adjust to the car you're driving.

I have no issues with the steering feeling sloppy with SEN=AUTO, for what it's worth.

 

[Yard_Sale]

It’s crazy because I should know better. But I’m going to give myself a pass because it’ll make me feel better.

I drive fire engines emergency for a living, and commute 125 miles each way to work…so I get A LOT of miles of driving my in a week. No vehicle I drive has steering that tight. However, the dirt bikes I race , I set up my steering angles super tight…tighter than anyone I know. Most my inputs on a bike come from my knees and feet.

So I guess I rationalized in my head that a race car should have really tight steering.

In gr.3&2 last night, the transition to “auto” was fairly easy. But it’s going to take some adjustment on my part for GR.4. I actually had to up my “spr” setting so the wheel would snap back to center quicker. I’m not used to having to turn the wheel so much!!