Five Star/CST Pedal mounting and GT5

[sidplayos2]

Thought I'd post a little diary of my journey mounting my Five Star pedals and getting them to work on PS3/GT5. I'm no engineer and no electrician, just handy with some tools and have basic soldering and multimeter skills, so if I can do it anyone can
I've made all the images clickable thumbnails to keep the post as condensed as possible.

The story begins with the mounting of the Fantec CSW I got at the start of the year, I wasn't satisfied with where Fanatec had drilled the 4 mounting holes in the angle adapter. It just didn't seem sturdy to me, so I tapped some extra threads into the angle adapter and felt it was not lifting at the front of the base anymore. This in itself though caused another issue, now I could not see over the BMW rim. Rather than try to raise my screen up, I opted to raise the cockpit seat slightly with some bolts and aluminum from bunnings.



After a good 3 years with the G27 pedals the pots were totally dead. There was no saving these with cleaning anymore, after pulling them apart all the carbon had been basically scratched off. A temporary fix was to color the scratches in with a lead pencil but it didn't last long. So I went to work to replace them with standard pots, keeping in mind that the logitech pots only have a 70 degree range, not the normal 270 to 300 degree range. So I fixed that by cutting down the metal shaft on the normal pot, placing in a split pin and then 'painting' over the tracks with carbon paint from jaycar. The result was not too bad, and the pedals lasted another few months before the carbon began to finally wear off. You can see my temporary invention here. By then I had already decided to invest in some Five Star pedals after visiting Tony and trying out a set in his simulator.



So I had now picked up my Five Star Pedals from Tony and proceeded to think how to mount them, as they were huge! The cockpit I have is the GT Pro, which I believe is the same as GT Omega in Europe I think? For anyone who was thinking of mounting into this cockpit will realize that some removal of the angled pedal floor would need to be removed, physically you cannot fit these pedals without doing that. First point of order was to remove the G27 Pedals which were snugly held in place by a tomato stake from bunnings that I had flattened about a year ago with a hammer .. LOL



So it was off with the G27's, then remove the metal plate with a rubber mallet which is only held with a couple of spot welds. Then Hacksaw time



Done! Now after some measuring it was off to bunnings to buy some MDF and a few bolts to give a base for the pedals. Then mount the MDF and using my old G27's as a guide to where to place the pedals before final mounting (Or I thought final).



Oh my, what a mess



After a few tests of pressing the Load cell brake I now had 2 new issues, the MDF with just a couple of bolts was not going to hold this, and the entire cockpit was flexing where the seat and cockpit base joins together.



So it was back off to bunnings to look for another invention to stabilize the forces. After picking up a few brackets, bolts and ideas I had in my head it was back to see if my idea would work. I had got some 4mm thick angle brackets, which I tapped a thread into for the pedals to bolt into, then I would bolt the side directly into the cockpit. As for the flexing, I got 2.5mm thick metal strips to be bolted to each side of the cockpit to stop that. Lining up of the 6 holes was particularly troublesome



Success!! No more flex, the MDF and angle brackets were not budging. Mounting was done

But now came the hard task, getting it to work on PS3/GT5 which took me a couple of weekends and googling about opamps.

 

[sidplayos2]

It should be noted that I am NOT an electrical engineer, so the usual politically correct "do this at your own risk.. blah blah" applies. I am however, not very politically correct so if you want, do it!! I will say however, that doing this will for sure void the warranty of the Bodnar Board by Tony, and rightly so but I did it anyway. You should turn away now Tony, I will hear your screams all the way from the gong

I had a few conditions in mind when making this:

It should be modular, meaning I can remove everything and return it to normal condition (that means no soldering of wires directly to Bodnar Board).
It should be powered only by the Fanatec Wheel when on PS3, no external power source to worry about.
It should utilize the Load Cell Amp of the Bodnar board, and pass the signal to Fanatec Wheel.
It should be neatly finished in a sealed box.
It should utilize the same pots, and not require any kind of adjustment to switch between PC and PS3.

Some important info I found along the way:

Fanatec uses reverse voltages, meaning that 0% pedal is 4.87V and 100% pedal is down to 0V
The Load Cell amp is actually an Instrumentation Amplifier AD627
The voltage for the Load Cell will come out as 0% pedal at 0V to 100% pedal is 4.87V which needs to be inverted as above
The BU0836-LC uses a custom CST Pedals Firmware that is 'zoomed' and NOT compatible with the tools for Bodnar Firmware config utility (although the rotary encoder utility does work).
The G27 Adapter (Fanatec) has some kind of 100K pull up resistor on the clutch (I think).
There is some noise that can come in DiView when connected this way, but grounding the circuit to the pedals will fix that.

I already had the fanatec adapter for my G27's from before, so figured I may as well just use that and take the cable with the G27's into my circuit anyway. If you intend to use the Fanatec without the G27 adapter I believe you will need an additional 100K pullup resistor on that clutch signal, but some other electronics guru can answer that.

Ok to begin I took photos of the BU0836-LC in it's default condition so that I would remember in a few months how to return everything to standard if I needed to. Now I'm not sure if every Five Star pedals use the same colors for the wiring, so this is based on my pedals, but it should be easy to figure out from the photos below. These are the default connections with no modifications.



Note the 3 solder holes in the picture above, this is where I will solder a 3 pin header to allow me to jumper off the board onto my own circuit. These were found by simple multimeter use, and looking at pictures of the old BU0836-LC (the green one). Then I confirmed by following the tracks and matching to the AD627 datasheet.

So now it was just to solder on the 3 pin header



Next is to check the 'offset' of the potentiometers. This is due to the fact that the custom CST firmware is zoomed to give more steps, but at the same time it means that the pots are not at rest ( 0 Ohms). They will be about 20 degrees rotated or so, giving anywhere between 16-20KOhms as you can see below. I found this out some time later and whilst I had GT5 and Iracing working, the calibration was wrong for one or the other. The solution was to adjust everything to be correct for PC/iracing, and we will adjust that later with a pot on our circuit board. For now, we just want to adjust the pots so that in DIView, they register as soon as the pedal is pressed (or at the lowest resistance we can). This is done with a flatblade screw driver and a 2mm allen key, loosen off the allen key, adjust as required with the flatblade and then tighten the allen key as shown below:



Next was prototyping the board, I needed to be careful to only power from a single source at once, so made sure the USB is disconnected. Notice the 3 Pin jumper that we soldered before, very handy! Now I had to figure out my circuit for inverting the signal from the load cell.



Notice the multimeter below, the circuit is working. At 0% brake 4.8V as fanatec expects. I didn't know anything about opamps before this, then picked up a LMC6482AIN and a few resistors. When you pick an opamp, try to get a "rail-to-rail" one. It means the voltage can go close to the power supply so in our case (unipolar) we want to be able to get close to 4.87V as we can.



Here are my top secret diagrams and initial layout of my circuit.. LOL



Ok, now I was ready for some testing, fingers crossed. At this point I still had the pot offset problem, but it was working in GT5 (I undid the pots from the linkages just to confirm it was working). However now was a new problem, I was getting noise in DIView when pressing the pedals. Obviously had a ground issue somewhere.



Moving onto mounting I got a plastic enclosure from Jaycar, proceeded to remove the original enclosure and drill holes to mount my enclosure to the pedals. This mounting point of the enclosure will come in handy later Then drilled holes to mount the BU0836-LC and my inverter circuit opposite each other, and cut some holes to allow entry for the USB cables, and the pot/g27 cables from the pedals.



Now to fix the noise issue, after measuring around with the multimeter it just happens that the bolts that mount the plastic case are continuous with the pedals. So I tried it out and the noise was gone.. Sweet! Both the noise was gone, and the bolt is inside the plastic enclosure, so I don't even need to run a cable outside to the pedals Now just a matter of adding an eyelet to the GND wire on the jumper wire that runs from the Load Cell Amplifier to the circuit.



Now the final problem, I never fully figured out. I could have used the 2nd opamp in the Dual opamp to add some voltage to offset the already rotated pots, but to be honest was just too lazy, and I don't really like how the clutch works in GT5 anyway. So instead I just decided to pull the clutch to always be 4.87V with a pot to allow fine adjustment. So went ahead and soldered on a 20K pot, it turns out about 1K is fine, but I had it lying around anyway.



The final product, neatly tucked away in a plastic enclosure and working on GT5 (minus the clutch) and Iracing (with the clutch).



Was it worth it? Absolutely. Just a matter of remembering to remove either the USB, or the DB9 when playing PC/PS3.

 

[Noddy981]

Hi sidplayos2,

Nice write up, I've just bought GT6 so I can play GT Academy and now trying to figure out the same problem...

I have a Fanatec Clubsport wheel base with the Formula wheel, I also have the CST/Five Star Simulations F1 3 pedal setup.

I understand bits and pieces of what you've done but I'm finding it a bit confusing.. You've done alot of testing and well done for getting it to work, hopefully I can do the same.

On the Fanatec wheel base, did you connect into the Pedal RJ connection? what are the pin outs on that?

Are you able to make a list of all parts required from Jaycar?

Are you able to draw a diagram of how you wired it all up as I wasn't able to work out your diagrams in the post.

Thanks

 

[sidplayos2]

I've just finished a v2 of this mod using an Arduino to solve some issues that I found with the previous version.

Some people have been asking me how to wire up the previous version, but unfortunately it was 'off the top of my head' at the time and I didn't properly document anything. However I have documented this version quite well, and I would suggest to do this new way as the parts are easily accessible and reasonably cost effective, and I put much more thought into it this time. Last time I just wanted to get something working.

My main idea behind this was that once I can get the inputs into code, I can basically do anything I want with them. I did have some issues on the last version that were bugging me. The reason I went with the Arduino was simply because of the ease of use, availability, cost and there is a wealth of information out there for them.

Before attempting any of this, I suggest you take photos of all the default Bodnar connections so you can return them to normal if it all goes pear shaped. Also because I'm not sure if all CST pedals use the same wiring colors.

Pedal Calibration
Issue here is that because GT6 has no pedal calibration as such, you can't define how much potentiometer rotation you want. And since the Five Star/CST Pedals have the Throttle and Clutch at rest about 30K Ohms or so, you couldn't get the full voltage range for the pedals. Whilst the previous version would work, it would only register about 2.5v or so of the range, not the full 5v. The same goes for the 100% position as well. This would also benefit those with G25/G27 pedals who can't find the proper 70 degree pot that is standard in those pedals. Normal pots rotate usually 270-300 degrees so could not simply 'drop in' to the Logitech's without some resolution loss. That was why one of my previous attempts was to paint silver on the carbon to make a 300 degree pot become a 70 degree pot.

Load Cell Calibration
As most people know in GT5/6, the way to calibrate the pedals is to the full 100% position you want the first time you enter the track/game. Whilst this is fine for potentiometer based pedals with a mechanical stop, with a load cell your 100% pressure may be less then what you can physically press the load cell (Different people like different pressure on the load cell). As an example, you set the pressure you want on the load cell for 100%. Then in one corner you panic and press the pedal harder than normal. Because GT6 continually replaces the max value, now you have a new (higher) 100% value and your old 100% is more like 80%.

Changing between PS3 and PC
In my previous version, I had to manually remove the Five Star/CST Pedals USB from PC when using on PS3 and plug in the G27 Adapter cable to the CSW base. And on the flip side, playing on PC required to remove the G27 Adapter cable from the CSW base and plug in the USB cable to the Five Star/CST Pedals USB to the PC. This was to avoid +5v coming from 2 different sources at the same time. In the previous version, when using PS3 the Bodnar was powered by the CSW, but when using PC the Bodnar was powered by the PC USB port.

SO what will this mod let us do? Note that I'm using this with a Fanatec CSW and CST Pedals, however there is no reason it won't work with other combinations that allow pedals to be plugged into the wheel in a PS3 mode. E.g. Fanatec with G27 Pedals, G27 with load cell etc. Just keep in mind which way the voltages go.

Fanatec 0% = 5v , 100% = 0v. i.e. Voltage decreases as the pedals are pressed
Logitec 0% = 0v , 100% = 5v. i.e. Voltage increases as the pedals are pressed

Pedal Calibration
This version allows setting the min and max values for each pedal individually, and stores the config in EEPROM so it can be retrieved after powering off. I have only done this for Throttle and Brake, and have tied Clutch to 5v (disabled). You could however expand the circuit if you want use of the clutch and I have provided for this in software and the 3 channel DIP switch. I have also added LED's to indicate which step of the calibration step you are at. I considered writing a GUI for this, but preferred a simple stand alone system instead therefore not requiring a PC at all. Each calibration step is activated by holding the button for longer than 500ms, I did this to ensure that accidentally pressing the button would not engage calibration mode. When the LED's are both OFF at the end of the calibration sequence, the config is written to the EEPROM.

Both LED's OFF            - Normal Mode, not calibrating
Solid GREEN , RED OFF     - Calibrate throttle MIN position
Blinking GREEN , RED OFF  - Calibrate throttle MAX position
GREEN OFF, Solid RED      - Calibrate brake MIN position
GREEN OFF, Blinking RED   - Calibrate brake MAX position

Load Cell
Because we can now set the min and max values for the load cell, if you exceed either threshold I just limit the output to the min/max values. What this means is that if you for example exceed your 100% setting, the software will ignore the higher values and only output 100%. Even better, you don't need to think about how hard to press when you first enter the game now. Once you have the calibration of the board to your liking, all you have to do is stomp on the pedals when you enter the game, because even when you press harder than 100% I will only return 100% anyway. This was the biggest gripe I had with the previous version, very annoying

Powered by CSW
Everything is now powered by the CSW only, and never by the PC. This allows for no cable pulling/plugging when switching between PC/PS3 now. It requires a small USB cable modification to remove the +5v USB signal.

Voltage Inversion
There is a 3 channel DIP switch that allows to 'flip' or 'invert' the voltages for each pedal individually. This is important in the case of the Bodnar/CST Pedal combo, as the output from the Throttle/Clutch is the same direction as Fanatec (5v -> 0v). However the AD627 on the Bodnar outputs the brake signal inverted as (0v -> 5v). So in my case there is a requirement to invert the pedal voltage for the brake only. The DIP switch only takes effect at program startup, so if you change it you need to power off and then on again.
Parts List
This is a list of the parts I used, although there may be other alternative parts that produce the same results. For example, I used an Arduino Nano, however there is no reason you can't use another Arduino UNO for example. I just wanted something small and compact to fit in the jiffy box I already had.

1 x Arduino Nano v3.0               Core Electronics ~ $12 AUS
2 x Adafruit MCP 4275               Core Electronics ~ $6  AUS Each
1 x Prototype Circuitbaord          Jaycar ~ $5 AUS (Cut down with hacksaw)
1 x RED LED                         Already lying around
1 x GREEN LED                       Already lying around
2 x 100Ohm Resistor                 Jaycar Mixed resistors 300 pc ~7$ AUS
2 x 100nF Ceramic Cap               Jaycar Mixed Ceramic Cap 60 pc ~$8 AUS
1 x Push Button                     Already lying around
1 x 40 PIN IC Socket                Jaycar ~$4 AUS (Cut down to 30 by hand)
1 x Arduino Stackable Headers       Jaycar ~$3 AUS
Various Header PINS                 Already Lying around
Various female Dupont wire          Core Electronics ~$4 AUS 20 pc
1 x Male to Female USB Cable        Already lying around
DB9 Backshell clamp                 Already lying around

So how does it work? Well basically it takes in the voltage signals on the ADC inputs for throttle and brake, and then scales those values to the configiured min/max values, then uses a DAC to output the 're-scaled' voltages to the Fanatec CSW using the entire 0 - 5v range. The Bodnar receives its power from the +5v and Ground near the AD627 (the Pins soldered in the previous version) and NEVER from the PC. This required removing the +5v pin from a USB cable, but leaving the GND, D- and D+ pins intact. The throttle is 'double jumpered' from my board to both the Bodnar and the Arduino at the same time. The clutch remains untouched on the Bodnar Board, and we simply tie the Clutch signal of the CSW to +5v (Remember 5v in Fanatec means 0%, if it were a Logitech then you would need to tie the Clutch to GND/0v instead.) The Bodnar is always on, because we need it to use the AD627 to amplify the load cell signal for us. Please refer to the Block diagram for how things are wired up.

Initial breadboard protptype, looks like something from H.R Geiger



The circuit has sockets so I can remove the DAC's and Nano, and makes routing wires in the jiffy box a lot easier. Notice the DIP switch has channel 2 set to ON. This means that the input signal of the brake should be inverted. (So 0v - 5v translates to 5v - 0v). The throttle does not need inversion since it is in the correct levels already. Basically if you see your signal going from high to low as you use the Fanatec GUI, just flip the DIP switches accordingly. Cute and small isn't it?



Initial prototyping with the circuit mounted in the jiffy box. Some of the cables are already there from the previous version so alot less time spent doing crimping this time.



Notice the USB cable I have removed the +5v PIN, this is important!! I had a Male to Female USB cable lying around and just removed the pin, although you can hack a cable if you want to but I think this looks much cleaner. Notice also how I have clamped the wires for the load cell to the Jiffy box cover. This was because the shield is exposed and shorted a gainst the board once. Luckily nothing bad happened so I just used a spare DB9 backshell clamp I had lying around to secure it from shorting. You could also put some heatshrink if you prefer.



And the finished product, looks not to bad for a hack job don't you think? The hardest part was getting the LED's to align with the holes in the case



Here is a shot of the Fanatec GUI and DiView working side by side and reflecting each others inputs.



Below is the Schematic, Block Diagram and source code for the Arduino. All I ask is if someone professionally makes this then send me some free ones . And no laughing, it's the first time I drew a schematic before

Best would be to view the source code in Notepad++ and select C++ language, since I used that to write it. Also you would need to download and install the Bounce2 , EEPROMEx and Adafruit MCP4725 libraries into your Arduino IDE.

Other Cockpit mods
Mounted keyboard with articulating arm. Bought an articulating monitor arm from Jaycar and mounted it upside down with some Satellite "V" clamps. From the photos you can see I had to open the keyboard to secure the bolt from the inside to the mounting arm. As a bonus when you place it upside down there is a little place you could place a drink holder or a Tablet of some kind.



Also made a little table on the side to hold a mouse and PS3 controller. Just grabbed a couple of 'L' brackets from Bunnings and a tool tray (which I turned upside down) to bolt to the side. The photo shows the part number for anyone who wants to do the same. It's in the section for garage flatpacks/storage. Can you see a pattern here with my mods, looks like I need to turn everything upside down ..



Good luck, and Enjoy 👍

 

[Noddy981]

Hi sidplayos2

I've wired everything up as per your schematic, just wondering from the cable from the Fanatec CSW base (RJ to PS/2 cable) what are the pin outs on the PS/2 end?

cheers

 

[Noddy981]

I'm just trying to load the pedals config into the Arduino Nano 3.0 and it comes up with the following error.

I've set the board to Arduino Nano w/ATmega328 and set my com port number as 3 (as per device manager when board is plugged in)

any ideas?

 

[sidplayos2]

Forgot to mention, there are some libraries you need to download that I used.

Adafruit_MCP4725
Bounce2
EEPROMEx

The exact versions I used are attached below. You need to import the libraries using "Sketch->Import Library"

You can refer to this pinout for the PS2 pins.

http://forum.virtualracing.org/showthread.php/83961-Fanatec-Clubsport-Wheel/page291

I will buzz it out sometime this week just to confirm.

Great to see someone giving it a go, it's worth the initial dramas, trust me