Getting used to a wheel

  • Thread starter RODDUZ
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RODDUZ
Hi,

Got a T300 RSGT today and I'm loving the immersion aspect of it and getting close enough to my lap bests already and I know I will beat them very soon. My only worry is if I lose it, I properly lose it. Nip the grass or even get a bit fish taily out of a bend on to a straight and I'd normally recover it with a controller but with the wheel I just seem to try to correct then re-correct on and on until eventually it spins out. Is this just the way it is on a wheel?
 
Do keep in mind with the controller you can very quickly correct from snaps due to the lack of range, but with the wheel you have much more to work with.

With the wheel, you need quick reactions and also a good sense of when you have countersteered enough to then start returning to the center.
 
Hi,

Give it time and lots of practice - It will come!

I converted from a controller to a wheel around 12 months ago. At first, I simply could not control the car at all. Then, over time, I began to get quicker. I would - very unscientifically! - guess that I manage to "catch" more than 90% of my spins and slides now.

Time and practice will solve the problem for you.... I promise!!! :)

Regards.

Ian.
 
Hi,

Got a T300 RSGT today and I'm loving the immersion aspect of it and getting close enough to my lap bests already and I know I will beat them very soon. My only worry is if I lose it, I properly lose it. Nip the grass or even get a bit fish taily out of a bend on to a straight and I'd normally recover it with a controller but with the wheel I just seem to try to correct then re-correct on and on until eventually it spins out. Is this just the way it is on a wheel?
Yeh m8 that seems normal NOT that i ever crash mind you :odd: just take your foot off the throttle until it's facing the right way :cheers:
 
Hi,

Got a T300 RSGT today and I'm loving the immersion aspect of it and getting close enough to my lap bests already and I know I will beat them very soon. My only worry is if I lose it, I properly lose it. Nip the grass or even get a bit fish taily out of a bend on to a straight and I'd normally recover it with a controller but with the wheel I just seem to try to correct then re-correct on and on until eventually it spins out. Is this just the way it is on a wheel?

Bit like changing from auto to manual gears, bit weird at 1st, but doesn't take too long imo to get there. Plus just feels better/more immersive imo, so its cool. But its not like for like carry over/replication of driving IRL, so there is certainly a bedding in phase.

I'd avoid racing online for now, as much less likely to get annoyed and not stick with it until it clicks, prolonging the learning phase.
 
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A good habit to get into is paying mind to where your hands are when the car gets wayward. Ideally, they should be glued (not literally:dopey:) to 9-15 to help your muscle memory gather things back up.
 
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I have the T-300 as well. I found it to be much easier to control the car in just about any situation, however it can be annoying to use when the car you drive needs soooo much steering input to turn. I'm talking about when you need to turn the wheel 180 degrees to get around a turn and then need to up/downshift when the wheel is upside down. You never have those issues with a controller.

Anyway, it seems as though there is a work around for this but it only works for 1 race then resets, so it would be good if Thrustmaster or PD were to make a setting to control the wheel sensitivity on these things.

As far as spinning out, I don't find it to happen more often than with a controller, but it certainly feels more violent than with a controller because of the force feedback, which the controller lacks. It could just be you interpreting the force feedback and making corrections that you would normally not make with the controller that leads to ever increasing instability that leads to more spin outs. I've found that really subtle movements/corrections when you feel the car slipping tends to get the car back in line. Or just holding on to the wheel and not making any correction at all when you feel the slipping keeps the car in line.

It obviously will take a bit of time to get used to the wheel vs the controller to get better, but overall you will get faster lap times, hit your apexes better and have much better throttle control with the wheel/pedal setup than you would with the controller.
 
Imo the problem is the lack of lateral grip ffb in the game atm. It's nowhere near as good as GTS. In GTS you could easily catch or hold a slide but with the lack of lateral grip ffb in GT7, you're either over correcting too much or counter-steering too late because you have to do it visually or notice when you get rear wheel slip feedback- both of which are too late.

Fishtails are a common spin in GT7. Almost unheard of in GTS.
 
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He must mean 3-9.

Screenshot 2023-01-22 at 23-49-19 analog clock – Google-haku.png
 
Had a mare most of the day in the Colmworth today on the wheel, seeing s**t drivers sail past me using controller so thought, right let me have a lap on controller, much easier but mostly because to correct a slide its not a big movement of analog stick to correct it so I got back on the wheel and started being a bit less of a "meow" on the wheel and actually ragging the wheel a bit to opposite lock and faster and it's working. Caught a lot more. Until now I've just been gently bringing the wheel back to straight.
 
I also just bought the T300 RS GT and I also have troubles correcting the car when it starts spinning vs the Dualsense.

What are the recommended settings in GT7? I have steering sensitivity on 8, fore feedback torque on 4 and force feedback sensitivity on 2. Are this the correct settings? And is there anything else which I need to adjust in GT7?
 
I also just bought the T300 RS GT and I also have troubles correcting the car when it starts spinning vs the Dualsense.

What are the recommended settings in GT7? I have steering sensitivity on 8, fore feedback torque on 4 and force feedback sensitivity on 2. Are this the correct settings? And is there anything else which I need to adjust in GT7?
You've just got to give yourself time to get used to it. Some people get the hang of it in a couple of weeks while others (me) take a lot longer. Once you've built that muscle memory, though, you don't forget it. Just keep plugging away with it and forget what you could do with the different skill set pad.

After reading how many people use 4-2, I gave it a try a couple of days ago and found it ideal for the quite dull weight transitions in GT7. I was definitely noticing slides a fraction earlier compared to my old 4-4 settings, which was enough to stop them going too far. The lap time was still borked but at least I wasn't 3 point turning.

According to the manual, the steering sensitivity is for the pad by the way. A few people think it makes a difference to wheels but I suppose there's nothing wrong with a placebo if you think it's working. A bit like wearing lucky pants.:lol:
 
Imo the problem is the lack of lateral grip ffb in the game atm. It's nowhere near as good as GTS. In GTS you could easily catch or hold a slide but with the lack of lateral grip ffb in GT7, you're either over correcting too much or counter-steering too late because you have to do it visually or notice when you get rear wheel slip feedback- both of which are too late.

Fishtails are a common spin in GT7. Almost unheard of in GTS.

I recall many on here complaining about GTS when doing comparisons with gt7, in respect of cars being almost glued/on rails... too safe/easy to control, including RWD's. To safe basically.

(i never played it, so not sure how true that is)>
 
B80
I recall many on here complaining about GTS when doing comparisons with gt7, in respect of cars being almost glued/on rails... too safe/easy to control, including RWD's. To safe basically.

(i never played it, so not sure how true that is)>
In GTS, I distinctly remember that, in GT3 cars, you could ram the throttle out of corners and it’d just grip. I felt like in general, GTS biased towards understeer, but that could just be hazy memory, or me not driving very well, lol.

I will have to go back and try some FR road cars to see how the traction is, went back a few months ago and tried the NISMO R35 GT-R, the physics felt quite a lot lighter than 7. More on edge.
 
Genuinely it's not the wheel or feedback settings causing slides, it's smoothness with power application.

Having to catch anything but the odd twitch points to power application decision making, to much power with too much steering angle is the usual culprit, the controller masks it a bit because you are only moving a few MM vs half a wheel rotation.
 
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For grass or dirt slides, lift off and ride the slide a bit. With a controller I found it easy to flick the opposite lock, lift off and carry on.

With a wheel you have to try to counter the slide, settle in to it a bit (sometimes .5 of a second others 1sec or just instinctively whack some oppo on.)

If it's a proper tail slapper then it's about smoothness and using the front brakes as the car is swinging. Gently and reducing the steering inputs as well. The car will mostly self correct with FFB wheels
 

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