Gran Turismo Championship Help

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Hi guys,

I don't know if this question has been answered yet, but when I did the search I did not find threads matching my criteria, so I'm posting this again. If there's a thread already, can you please create a link to that forum. Thanks

Anyways

I have difficulty doing the Gran Turismo Championship at the end of the Professional Races. I tried several times, first with my black Nissan R92CP Race Car with 1100hp; I managed to win two races. Next time, I used the Minolta Toyota 88C-V Race Car with 1225hp with Medium Racing Front and Super-hard Racing Rear. The car skidded out of control on rolling surfaces of the El Capitan and I lost miserably. I managed to win 4 races in that, but every time the Mercedes Sauber C9 Race Car would outrun me, and I had a hard time catching up, let alone pass it.

Also, seems like I have to pit in more often than other racers. For example, when I was doing the Seoul Central with RM Front and RSH Rear my rear tires were so worn out by the end of the 15th lap Im sure I had to pit in. But I decided to keep going since the Sauber C9 wasn't pitting in yet. Later in the lap, the C9 Pitted in, and I was racing with red tires, crashing and skidding all along. I had a 30 second lead after C9 pitted, and that lead shrinked to 2 seconds when I crossed the finish line, doing a 360 on the way. One of the people I know suggested using a JGTC car, like an Arta NSX or Motul Pitwork 350Z fully customized. He personally beat that race with a 750hp Arta NSX. But my question is, is there any tips to beating that championship? Why am I losing with the most powerful car in the lineup? (or I think it is) Is there any suggestions from people who have done this? By the way, money is not a problem, since I have over 10 million credits. Thanks for any help.
 
I agree with Opendriver -You really should not be losing in a maxed-out 88C-V (expect it to eat tyres, it has 300bhp more than anyone else in the field). I actually find it easy in a stock R8, but we all have our own skill levels so I'd recommend you be more careful with the throttle, especially on fading tyres. It might sound odd, but you will probably do better on Hard rear tyres (if you only have to pit once, you will definitely feel a big improvement.)

DE
 
Search better. This question has been asked 600 trillion times. Try this link or This one.

I honestly don't see what's so difficult about winning this thing. I did it first go with the 350Z LM you win in the japanese hall. Try running the Minolta without the Turbo, if you can't win it with 1200 odd HP, you probably can't control it and you'd do better with less HP.
 
Casio
Search better. This question has been asked 600 trillion times. Try this link or This one.

I honestly don't see what's so difficult about winning this thing. I did it first go with the 350Z LM you win in the japanese hall. Try running the Minolta without the Turbo, if you can't win it with 1200 odd HP, you probably can't control it and you'd do better with less HP.
Yep, it's easy for you since you're a WRS Div 1 driver. :dopey:

I did it with a fully modded Minolta, and that's using B-spec with no training. I'd probably obliterate 'em all if I drove.

I have settings for all the cars you listed, so try them out if you like. They may help.
 
OK thanks guys :) Ill try to do whatever it takes to win

Yeah, maybe its my car having too much power...

p.s. So I guess hard is better than super-hard?
 
You don't need a very powerful car to win any of the races except maybe Motegi Speedway. I've used various LMP cars (Bentley, Minolta Toyota, Sauber Mercedes, PS Pescalaro, etc.) to win every race and series outright, but had recently used the Audi R8 LMP using only a Stage 3 Turbo. I softened up the suspension quite a bit, increased tire clearance and increased traction control. I used rather wide and tall gearing to decrease tire spin. I could easily get more laps from my tires than ANY opponent could. Medium fronts and hard rears do the trick on any courses except Motegi and Hong Kong. I go a step harder at Motegi (front and rear) and a step softer at Hong Kong (front and rear). I won Motegi Speedway on light green tires (the right front was orange) without a pit stop (21 laps). I think only the Mazda 787 can run it without stopping because it's very light and low powered. At Hong Kong I can easily run nine laps far faster (about two seconds a lap faster) than ANY opponent car enabling a pit stop without the second place car passing me at any point. I think I won Hong Kong by about 38 seconds against the Minolta. I never use nitro at all. You mention that you have a problem with Seoul, but my Audi setup smokes the Sauber and gets great tire wear on that course. On El Capitan this Audi can run all eleven laps without a pit stop (but the front tires will be bright orange using medium fronts and hard rears). If you're nervous about spinning out, one pit stop will still allow you about a 30 or 40 second lead at the finish.

I say that Pro GT Series is all about tire life. Once you get your tires to last longer than the fastest opponent, then it's a piece of cake. I've found the Minolta LMP to be overkill. I've used the Motul Pitwork Z and won every race except Motegi. That Z just doesn't have enough oomph for that course but otherwise a very capable car against LMPs although it is handicapped by it's extra weight (faster tire wear) and lesser HP in that series.

I could give you my setup for the Audi LMP if you want it. There is no way you can lose with this car. Just run it smooth and steady around turns. I use manual shifting so I can lug the engine for minimal rear tire wear. Using that car, every race became a Sunday drive on the freeway.

I almost forgot, but I used the same Audi R8 with a Stage 4 Turbo to win every race in the Formula One Series. Yup. Even at the 'Ring. Surprisingly, it got slightly better tire wear than the F1 cars at many tracks while turning slightly faster lap times. Amazing.
 
You were spinning out because you were mixing R3 tires with R1 tires. Medium offers incredible amounts of grip compared to super-hard. The imbalance causes oversteer, therefore you spin.
 
OK, SirBerra, can you give me your R8 settings? Thanks for you advice, and everyone's also. I will try to challenge that again around this weekend if possible, or early next week, partially because I''m being overrun by math homework these days. Spring break will begin next Monday, and that would be a great time to try it out.

By the way I have to buy the R8 for 4,500,000 right?
 
This is the setting for my Pro GT series winner at all tracks. Easily.
Audi R8 using a Stage 3 Turbo producing about 860 HP

I've won most my Audi R8s. But I've also bought a couple just to use try to fill up my garage to the bursting point.
When you buy or win the car, install the mods and top off the oil a couple of times to add a bit more HP. It might even help on engine life, but I'm not sure about that.
I purchased all the tires, both Turbos, nitro, installed the chassis stiffener and chassis refresh. I always buy everything just for the heck of it. It might come in handy.

Settings: Set them how you see them on the screen

Suspension
13.8 14.3
96 97
-- --
6 6
6 6
2.5 1.5
2 -1
3 3

Gear Ratio
1 3.410 (I rarely ever downshift into first during a race)
2 2.290
3 1.630
4 1.220
5 0.950
6 0.760
7 --
Final 3.500
Auto 21
Set auto at 21 and then individually set each gear
to what I have. Probably not all that critical but that's
how I like to space my shift points. Decent all around
setting for all tracks.

Driving Aids
8
7
8

Downforce
60 88

Limited Slip
25
40
30

Brake Balance
5 7

Weight Balance
Ballast 0
F/R Balance -1

Tire settings for tracks:
Medium front and hard rear (All tracks except Motegi and Hong Kong)
Hard front and super hard rear at Motegi Speedway due to high speed turns
Soft front and medium rear at Hong Kong due to sharp turns

I hope all this helps you. I promise you this car and setup will give you a leg up on the AI competition. Race the individual tracks to get used to the car's handling and power. It runs very solid for me. Don't push this car through turns. Brake early and gently. Downshift and let it coast around turns. Powering/pushing around turns will wear the fronts faster. Listen for tire squeal in turns. If you hear squeal, go slower.
If there's any problem with winning at a certain track, just ask. I don't know your driving ability so that may be a factor. You do need to stay on the track. I'm just giving you a car that works very well for me.

This Audi is capable of running any race 11 laps and under with no tire changes if you're smooth. The AI Mazda 787B can do it, but can't touch the Audi in speed. Don't worry about any front runners pulling away even at Hong Kong. The Minolta Toyota flies away since it starts first, but I can catch it in two laps and pass it by the third lap. But never get stuck behind the Vertigo. Run at a steady pace and you'll catch the lead car and preserve your tires at the same time. Don't power over curbs. It seems to increase rear tire wear. If you get desperate, use a nitro burst on a long straight for extra top speed. Draft cars whenever you can and knock the lead AI car into a wall or off course when you pass him. Just to show him you're not intimidated by his lousy skills. Just kidding. If you catch him wrong he could spin you into a wall.

Just remember, AI opponents get stuck in traffic too. You're smarter and should pass traffic much faster. When pitting, skip filling the tank. You get out sooner.

I ran Seoul today with this car against the Minolta Toyota. The Toyota pitted on lap 15. I finished without pitting nearly about to lap him on yellow tires (one front tire was turning orange). A piece of cake. Just test it and see how it compares to what tire wear you have been getting.

Good luck
 
Thanks for the settings! I will buy that car as soon as I can and try running that tournament. I'll inform you of any success or failure around this weekend or next week. Thanks again!
 
As an added bonus, this car should be easily able to win Endurance races in B-Spec even with 870 HP. I just tested it at Fuji 1000 KM Enduro and the R8 turns 1:17 to 1:18 laps and is able to go one lap further on tires (M/H) than the second and third fastest cars while running quicker laps. Just set B-Spec on 3 and Overtake and that's it.

I had always done my endurance races using 4-stage turbo modded cars and they destroyed the AI cars finishing many, many laps ahead at the finish. So if you want to juice up the Audi R8 to it's max HP you should easily win all Endurance races such as Sarthe I and II, Fuji, Infineon, etc. Make sure you refresh the chassis and put in new oil before each race just to keep the car in tip-top shape.

I'm just mentioning this so you can win some easy money and some free cars, too. Many a nights I've left my PS2 running while winning nice prize cars the next day without lifting a finger. Yawn.
 
OK, thanks for the added info! BTW, is it possible to win this car? Because I'm saving up for the 4 black LMP cars, so I don't want to use 4 1/2 million for R8...if its not possible to win, then I might as well just buy it.
 
I finished the race! I didnt get all gold perfectly though, but at least its done! Thank you all for your help; now I can race in Extreme section :dopey:
 
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